Hit a deer - wheel is off center

[JTK]

I more intrigued on how you hit a deer, sourced and installed all these junkyard parts in less than a day.

Good work! Although I would be hesitant to take an old Focus to just any shop for an alignment check.

 

[ripcord]

Use a tape measure to measure the distance between the front and back tires on both sides.

 

[jsean]

The steering wheel is a bit off after the hit, bottom line something got messed up. I'd have a good alignment place give it a once over. They'll tell you what needs to be replaced if anything, then you can DIY [if you decide to] and bring it back to them for an alignment.

That’s what I’m thinking. My assessment is that the control arm is tweaked. I’d think if it were the inner or outer tie rods - there would be some kind of noise. I also can’t think those being bad would cause the wheel to be off center in the wheel well? About to head to a tire chain around here. I really wish this was pre Covid and the couple of mom and pop alignment places that were around still existed.

 

[TheLastWord]

That’s what I’m thinking. My assessment is that the control arm is tweaked. I’d think if it were the inner or outer tie rods - there would be some kind of noise. I also can’t think those being bad would cause the wheel to be off center in the wheel well? About to head to a tire chain around here. I really wish this was pre Covid and the couple of mom and pop alignment places that were around still existed.

A tire chain store is for selling tires, not alignment, regardless of what they claim. Bite the bullet, pay the piper, etc, etc. etc. Take it to a real alignment shop. Insurance? Comprehensive? High deductible? Or do you cheap out there too?

Does your tire shop have one of these or similar?

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www.northerntool.com

 

[jsean]

I more intrigued on how you hit a deer, sourced and installed all these junkyard parts in less than a day.

Good work! Although I would be hesitant to take an old Focus to just any shop for an alignment check.

Thanks! Got lucky that the local pick n pull had a red 2 door Focus. Turns out red is pretty rare on this gen unlike the maroon/burgundy ones. Took a half day at work and then had a really long evening/night between getting the parts and putting it back together.

I’ve had horrible luck with Tuffy, Midas and Firestone in the past. Going to try my luck at discount tire and see what they gotta say

 

[jsean]

A tire chain store is for selling tires, not alignment, regardless of what they claim. Bite the bullet, pay the piper, etc, etc. etc. Take it to a real alignment shop. Insurance? Comprehensive? High deductible? Or do you cheap out there too?

Do they one of these?

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www.northerntool.com

I think you misread my post. I can’t go to a dedicated alignment shop because I’m in a small town and the independent ones either closed during Covid or sold out to the larger franchises. Can’t bite a non existent bullet in this case.

This beater doesn’t have comprehensive - it’s a $1800 vehicle. Insurance will total it out given the cost of damage vs. book value. I don’t cheap out on insurance on my cars with higher book values, but I’m not going to pay a high premium for a vehicle only to be totaled. But glad that you’re jumping to conclusions here about my insurance coverage and whether I cheap out or not

 

[TheLastWord]

I think you misread my post. I can’t go to a dedicated alignment shop because I’m in a small town and the independent ones either closed during Covid or sold out to the larger franchises. Can’t bite a non existent bullet in this case.

This beater doesn’t have comprehensive - it’s a $1800 vehicle. Insurance will total it out given the cost of damage vs. book value. I don’t cheap out on insurance on my cars with higher book values, but I’m not going to pay a high premium for a vehicle only to be totaled. But glad that you’re jumping to conclusions here about my insurance coverage and whether I cheap out or not

I didn't know if it was $1800 or $18000.. Small tidbit of missing info.

 

[jsean]

Per discount tire alignment tech, control arm needs replacement. Gives a little more confidence in the bent control arm theory. Neighbor has a buddy who apparently worked as a dealership tech before retiring - he’s coming out tonight to take a look as well.

 

[jsean]

Spent some more time under the car this evening. Some more observations:
1. On the day when the deer ran across, after the hit I didn’t notice any weird sounds.
2. Today while driving to discount tire, I noticed rotational rubbing sound. Turns out the end of the sway bar is rubbing against the axle half shaft. What gives here? What could cause this kind of interference/shift in suspension geometry?

 

[ripcord]

Sounds like the wheel hub has been moved relative to the swaybar's position due to something being bent out of position. I'll repeat myself and say measure the distance between the tires on both sides to see how far things have been moved.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

What could cause this kind of interference/shift in suspension geometry?

Hitting a deer?

 

[Nukeman7]

If the lower control arm was bent backwards as suspected, it would also shift the CV axle back as the LCA connects to the hub knuckle assembly through the ball joint.

 

[jsean]

If the lower control arm was bent backwards as suspected, it would also shift the CV axle back as the LCA connects to the hub knuckle assembly through the ball joint.

This is helpful, thank you. The lower control arm is indeed bent backwards and down.

 

[jsean]

Sounds like the wheel hub has been moved relative to the swaybar's position due to something being bent out of position. I'll repeat myself and say measure the distance between the tires on both sides to see how far things have been moved.

I’ll measure both sides tomorrow between different points, primarily because I’d like to make sure that the subframe isn’t impacted.

 

[meep]

Can you help me understand what these triangles are? First time I’ve heard about it - are there specific points I need to measure between?

Sure. The control arms have 3 points… front mount, rear mount, and the arm. It makes a triangle. Measure the distance between those three points and compare between the left side and right. If they are not the same, one of them is bent.

 

[jsean]

Sure. The control arms have 3 points… front mount, rear mount, and the arm. It makes a triangle. Measure the distance between those three points and compare between the left side and right. If they are not the same, one of them is bent.

That makes sense, I appreciate the explanation. I’ll measure them out later today.

 

[jsean]

A quick update - Dorman (so we’ll see how long this one lasts ) control arm is in. I need to buy the pinch bolt at the bottom that goes into the control arm. Turns out a standard M10 bolt is too loose and a 7/16 bolt requires a tiny amount of the hole in the knuckle to be bored out.

I’m thinking of just biting the bullet and getting the OE bolt from Ford (p/n# W712393-S439) for a princely amount of $28 + taxes. Seems like Ford added a taper to the non threaded portion of that bolt.

Can someone please help me with the torque specs for the 4 bolts on the control arm?
Also, do I need to torque the bolts wheels on the ground or can I torque them if I have the control arm jacked up in a way where it’s relatively the same angle as if it were with the wheels on the ground?

I’m not sure how to get underneath the car with the wheels on and on the ground to torque them…

 

[eljefino]

7/16" is a splitting image of 11mm, FWIW. But that bolt has a thicker shoulder that has a purpose, so I'd just get it.

Torque everything in the air to good-n-tight, then when you lower the car, bounce it a few times, roll it back and forth, and measure ride height on both sides. If that's good you don't have any binding issues.

 

[Nukeman7]

A quick update - Dorman (so we’ll see how long this one lasts ) control arm is in. I need to buy the pinch bolt at the bottom that goes into the control arm. Turns out a standard M10 bolt is too loose and a 7/16 bolt requires a tiny amount of the hole in the knuckle to be bored out.

I’m thinking of just biting the bullet and getting the OE bolt from Ford (p/n# W712393-S439) for a princely amount of $28 + taxes. Seems like Ford added a taper to the non threaded portion of that bolt.

Can you go back to the salvage yard where you got the used fender and just pull the special tapered bolt? I'd imagine they would sell it for a buck or two instead of $28.

Can someone please help me with the torque specs for the 4 bolts on the control arm?
Also, do I need to torque the bolts wheels on the ground or can I torque them if I have the control arm jacked up in a way where it’s relatively the same angle as if it were with the wheels on the ground?

I’m not sure how to get underneath the car with the wheels on and on the ground to torque them…

As long as the LCA is loaded to the same angle relative to sitting on the ground, tightening the bolts will be fine. You will need a wheel alignment afterwards, so that should resolve any minor discrepancies.

 

[jsean]

7/16" is a splitting image of 11mm, FWIW. But that bolt has a thicker shoulder that has a purpose, so I'd just get it.

Torque everything in the air to good-n-tight, then when you lower the car, bounce it a few times, roll it back and forth, and measure ride height on both sides. If that's good you don't have any binding issues.

I ended up getting the bolt from the dealer. I was able to find 2 older threads on Focus fanatics and the folks on there used a 7/16 bolt with a washer and ended up drilling out the hole in the knuckle. I didn’t like the idea of opening up a designed/spec’Ed hole in the knuckle to save $15-20.