Higher miles vehicle question

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1981 Mazda GLC (323)

Some would refer to this type as "throw away vehicle" so 606,000 miles is amazing.

due in considerable part to various leaks

My Focus is the same type as your Mazda So I am going to focus on preventing leaks by using the right oil and following proper maintenance schedule. I will be using the current 5-6 months maintenance schedule, but i am also going to explore syn-blend higher miles oils.

Thank you very much for sharing your experiences.
 
There's a Mercedes tech I've watched on YouTube...the guy is pretty knowledgable. He recommends following Mercedes oil change interval up until a certain mileage point, then he reduces that number, he also will change the weight of the oil when it reaches another threshold. His mileage points were something like this...recorded intervals until 70,000 miles (Mercedes has a high mileage oil change interval), after 70,000 he suggests no more than 7,000 between changes, and then at 120,000 miles he reduces it again to 5,000 miles and increases the weight of the oil a little bit.

He fully admits that this is just his opinion, but he seemed pretty experienced and knowledgable. He also preferred using oil extractors - which at first I found to be ridiculous. But he gave a demonstration of how they actually remove more oil than by just pulling the plug (showed how oil is left in a pan because of the location of the plug). He liked how he wouldn't have to put the car in the air and get dirty by doing it this way. Mercedes also has the oil filter canister on the top of their engines, which obviously makes a huge difference in ease of performing the oil change this way.
 
First post here, I've been a guest reader for quite awhile tho. Actually have something to add to this post. I've got a collection of older vehicles (I like 70's stuff) but 3 others are relevant here. 2005 Chevy Cobalt. Bought new, have always followed the oil life "recommendation" which usually ends up between 6000 and 8000 miles, mostly 7500-8000 before reading 0%. Completely aware this is based only on a algorithm and does not "sample" oil, or know whats in the oilpan. Car currently has close to 265K, with nothing more than an alternator at 238K and heater core around 245K. It's had mostly 5w30 of ALL types and flavors, with a 15-40 or 10-30/40 a few times based on what I had or was on sale. Still runs great, no leaks or noises. Consumption has gone from NONE between changes to 1 qt/2000 miles or so after oil life drops below 75% range or so. So I've just learned to check it about every 20% of life drop on indicator. Prob try some 20w-50 once it warms up.

Next is 1992 F250 4x4 460. Slightly over 270K. Engine never been apart, does have some timing chain slack as observed by watching rotor while turning crank back and forth with breaker bar. Runs great tho, pulls a 10K boat some and does not use oil between 3-5K changes. Bought it from orig owner, worked hard he had replaced trans once and was out when I got it. I use either Brad Penn 10w-40 or 20w-50, Delvac 15w40 or last chg was Pennzoil High Mileage 10w-40. Rear main had started weeping and the HM appears to have dried that up for now.

Third is a 1995 GMC K1500 5.7 TBI. Bought it from original owner at 255K (he is a Toyota mechanic at local dealer) so it was well maintained. Original engine and trans. He said he always changed oil at whichever dealership he worked at, bulk 10w30. Runs great also (son's truck), does use a quart or so in 5K miles.

Personally I'm not a fanatic about oil or overly frequent change intervals, but NEGLECT will kill any longevity. Not a huge fan of thin (xw-20, xw-30 stuff in older flat tappet engines either, although I think its likely OK in newer roller engines not subjected to extreme use HP or TQ wise.

Boat has a GenV Mercruiser 502 MagMPI, nearly 500hrs on it. BradPenn 20w-50, Merc recommendation is their branded 20w-40. No issues so far.
 
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One more thing to add. I believe for probably 98%+ of todays daily driven vehicles with get-in-and-go mentality, the 0w 5w/ 20 30's are the way to go. For the few of us that understand (or care) what's actually going on in an engine that's cold started (especially in cold weather/climates) and are willing to "go easy" for even a few minutes after startup, we may see a benifit to heavier grades in some instances. Older non-roller engines, and roller or non-roller that are subject to heavy duty use. Just my opinion, probably wrong thread but kinda related to my earlier comment on the "thin" stuff.
 
I compared three lower priced 5w-20HM brands that are available at walmart. Can you tell from cold weather performance numbers if they are syn-blend?

Quaker State Defy CCS Vis 5000; MRV Vis 13,300; api SN ISLAC GF-5

Pennzoil High Mile CCS Vis 5800; MRV Vis 20,000; api SN

Mobil Super HighM CCS Vis 5360; MRV Vis 23,350; api SN ISLAC GF-5

CCS Vis @-30C and
MRV Vis @-35C for all three
 
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