High RPM to Remove Carbon

Maintaining constant high RPM alone is nothing special, the engine is just operating as its designed to do. High rpm is great for bringing everything up to (elevated above normal) temp - which is beneficial in and of itself to help “cook off” carbon build up BUT the real magic happens when you are WOT and let off the throttle. The over run condition produces high vacuum and unloads the piston rings allowing them to “rattle around” in their grooves, helping to free them if stuck, and break up carbon deposits.
 
Maintaining constant high RPM alone is nothing special, the engine is just operating as its designed to do. High rpm is great for bringing everything up to (elevated above normal) temp - which is beneficial in and of itself to help “cook off” carbon build up BUT the real magic happens when you are WOT and let off the throttle. The over run condition produces high vacuum and unloads the piston rings allowing them to “rattle around” in their grooves, helping to free them if stuck, and break up carbon deposits.
Honda's VCM system disables the valves on some cylinders from opening, after the engine is fully warmed up.
Those cylinders become "air springs" - which should rattle the hell out of the rings.
Yet those cylinders are the only ones that carbon lock the rings.
 
So, you basically did not understand that post at all. It is oil temperature as a consequence of pushing the vehicle uphill, definitely not bcs. I drove at 4k
It was a picture showing a tach at 4000 rpm, what are we supposed to infer from that?
 
It was a picture showing a tach at 4000 rpm, what are we supposed to infer from that?
Oil temperature. Oil temperature follows how much you push the car. It is a better indicator of an engine's temperature.
For example, I can keep BMW at 4,000rpm, but oil temperature and engine temperature would not go over 235-240f.
 
I took my Corvette out for a couple of hours today and during that drive I spent about 15 minutes on the highway with it in 4th gear and going between 75-80 mph, so the rpm was between 3500-4000 for all of that time. The oil temperature reached a high of 259F, coolant temperature was around 220F. I don’t know if that was enough to do any sort of carbon removal though.
 
according to the article you have to repeat it 4-5 times . on the other hand its says that after 4000pm ,you have to raise that to 6500pm,there is no way i am reaching that pm.
i do what you do but longer ,for 30 minutes. i think it does some short of a job. in town you will feel the car accelerate easier ,like there is more power.
 
Just open the garage door, start it up, and throw a brick on the accelerator. Then light the grill and throw the steaks on. When the steaks are done, so is your engine.

Or you could use the Formula 1 method, and cook the steaks on the manifold at the same time. It saves on charcoal.

 
Never have done it "Scientifically" like the method described here, but i could assure that you can always feel the difference after you drive a car hard on the autobahn which was previously used mostly on short trips or around town.

4.000 RPM is my prefered cruising speed here with my Winter beater VW golf MK III. It´s a perfect smooth ride with 100 MPH / 160 KMH in 5. gear. You can drive for hours this way, the engine will last forever.

My Honda S2000 is a different story, to my knowledge it is one of the few engines wich you can destroy on the autobahn, because the engine cant stay the insane piston speed at 9.000 RPM for a longer period of time. Read: 30 Seconds ~ 1 Minute to my best knowledge.
I read about two cases in the german forum where owners blow up the engine on the Autobahn because they want to know "how fast this car can go" 🤦‍♂️
They know everything about computers, but dont know the meaning of "Piston Speed" and what happens inside a engine....
 
i remember overheating my 65 goat once and noticed that it ran great afterwards, once i fixed the issue. probably cleaned it up quite a bit?
 
Ok good, I do that 🤣. 20 min above 4K with oil temps at 270+ deg F 4x a day for 2 days.

I do believe that this sort of thing has some validity for DI carbon reduction on intake valves and pistons. For OP not sure premium 93 no E is required beyond if your car requires it.

 
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With rare exception, premium fuel does not have added detergents. Just higher octane.
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I’m sure you’re familiar with the claims of Shell V-power Nitro as well.


I don’t think it’s quite correct to say it’s “rare” for premium fuel to have more detergents. It’s probably more fair to say that Premium fuel often, but not necessarily, includes more detergents.
 
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I’m sure you’re familiar with the claims of Shell V-power Nitro as well.


I don’t think it’s quite correct to say it’s “rare” for premium fuel to have more detergents. It’s probably more fair to say that Premium fuel often, but not necessarily, includes more detergents.
According to their own words, it has “2x the cleaning detergents”… compared to what though? Their 87? A competitor’s premium? What’s their benchmark for comparison? Hard to tell with marketing speak like that.

I will agree though that some brands’ premium does have more detergents though, I’m just pointing out that this snippet from Circle K proves nothing.
 
My 06 Saturn Ion Redline usually runs better after a long highway trip, I don't even need to hold 4000 or anything like that, though I will admit that my road trips usually include several highway onramp pulls....

I once had a 1984 Peugeot 505 with a 3 spd ZF automatic trans. At average highway speeds I would be at a constant 4000 rpm, which I think equated to just over 70 mph. That motor loved 4k rpm , and even after 200 k miles it never used oil and had no sludge anywhere
 
I think people have the wrong idea.
If you have a car that is 20 years old with 10 miles on it driven by great great great grandma 5 feet to church on sunday once a week yes the Italian tune-up will probably help you and knock the "coal" out of the engine.
If you have a well taken care of engine, regular oil changes and drive it normally you will be just fine.
 
I think people have the wrong idea.
If you have a car that is 20 years old with 10 miles on it driven by great great great grandma 5 feet to church on sunday once a week yes the Italian tune-up will probably help you and knock the "coal" out of the engine.
If you have a well taken care of engine, regular oil changes and drive it normally you will be just fine.

I agree. Years back when leaded gasoline, carburetors, and breaker points were all that existed, and cars were driven mostly in the city, especially in frigid weather, it became necessary now and then to, "get on it" and clear it out.

Back then, even under good, highway driving conditions, you were lucky to get 10,000 miles out of a set of plugs and points.... And they looked like the bottom of a Weber grill when you finally replaced them.

Today's cars are driven 10 times that distance, with the spark plugs showing zero issues. Modern unleaded fuels, coupled with computer directed fuel injection systems in today's vehicles, assure the engine is getting the correct air / fuel ratio regardless of temperature, RPM, or driving conditions.

Not to mention, with all of these new 8 and 10 speed automatic overdrive transmissions, modern engines are only turning 1,500 to 2,000 RPM. Even at highway speeds. And they run much longer without any issues.

With yesterday's carburetors, automatic chokes, and 3 speed automatics, this was not possible. And besides, most of these people that enjoy revving their engines, and playing Parnelli Jones, driving at high RPM, would do so anyway. Regardless of any excuse they make for doing it.
 
Today's cars are driven 10 times that distance, with the spark plugs showing zero issues. Modern unleaded fuels, coupled with computer directed fuel injection systems in today's vehicles, assure the engine is getting the correct air / fuel ratio regardless of temperature, RPM, or driving conditions.
No it doesn’t especially with direct injection.
That’s because the correct air/fuel ratio is not optimal for emissions.
Fact is that the fuel/air ratio needs to be all over the place under different operating conditions, in order to keep emissions, LSPI, knock and a host of other parameters in check.

Short trips and cold weather still can result in carbon buildup.
 
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Back then, even under good, highway driving conditions, you were lucky to get 10,000 miles out of a set of plugs and points.... And they looked like the bottom of a Weber grill when you finally replaced them.

Today's cars are driven 10 times that distance, with the spark plugs showing zero issues.

People think I’m crazy but I am still on the original plugs in my Civic at 166,000 miles. I’m still getting incredibly good fuel economy and the engine runs smoothly so I see no reason to change them at this point. And I have heard of at least one other 10th generation Civic owner who has 250,000 miles on his plugs! Better plugs made with iridium combined with modern (port) fuel injection has greatly increased the amount of miles you can get from a set of plugs now.
 
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