High mileage oils?

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What is your opinion on high mileage oils? I have a '72 chevy c10 with a 350 and have been running Rotella with some mmo and a wix filter. I am about to change it out for 3 quarts of pennzoil high mileage 10w-40 along with 2 quarts of castrol hd-30 for a little more thickness on start up. it currently oil fouls plugs but it now just has a small miss since I started using tcw3 in the gas along with changing out the 5w-30 royal purple i had (brain [censored] when I bought it). I also have another gallon of syn 5w-40 rotella along with 15w-40 rotella, 3 bottles of stp 4-cylinder treatment, and a full bottle of mmo if I should use any of those things aswell or instead. I know I should order engine rx too and will soon. I also got a compression tester to find if it's the rings or valve seals that are causing the oil fouling but am away from my truck right now. Do high mile oils really do anything for cleaning up the ring packs and improving seals? I know not to expect a miracle in a bottle with this high mile motor. And I couldn't find anything on the search.
 
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how many miles u got? The HM oils have good additive Pkgs and Pennzoil HM 10w40 is a great choice by itself I think. I would use no additives and try 10w40 Pennzoil or Maxlife and see what happens. HM oils will keep the seals from drying out and if you want to clean up rings then do one change with the HM oil except substitute in 1qt of Rislone if you want to clean it up without any harm.
 
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I would use 10w40 maxlife or pennzoil and an a/c oil filter if you put in a lot of additives you may have to wait for the second oil change but the 10w40 hm by itself will help a lot the hm oils do help they are blended on the thick side and they also have great seal conditioners in them.. I use pennzoil in my high mileage cars with great sucess..
 

72customdeluxe

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I might have 40,000 miles, I might have 540,000 The odod rolls over at 100k but it's got 140k, maybe rebuilt, maybe not. Probably isn't
 
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They do have strong additive packages and they do keep the seals pliable. I vote for Mobil 1 HM oils.
 

72customdeluxe

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I thought about the mobil products except that i'm about to do an auto rx flush (3000k oci max right?) and didn't feel like paying that much for oil.
 
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M1HM > AutoRx (Semi-seriously, look up the other recent HM threads; you might find them interesting.)
 
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You'll get another vote for Mobil 1 HM from me. Go to Walmart. They're on sale for 22 bucks. I think there is a $10 rebate off too in the promo forum. You can't go wrong either way.
 

72customdeluxe

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I haven't seen any jugs of m1 high mile or high mile clean. Just quarts at auto parts stores for 7$ each. Do they have the 5-5.5 quart containers at wally world? The only syn that you are supposed to use with engine rx is group 3 right? What is mobil?
 
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 Originally Posted By: 72customdeluxe
I haven't seen any jugs of m1 high mile or high mile clean. Just quarts at auto parts stores for 7$ each. Do they have the 5-5.5 quart containers at wally world? The only syn that you are supposed to use with engine rx is group 3 right? What is mobil?
Mobil 1 is group III. And yup. I have been buying my HM Mobil 1's in 5qt jugs from Wally's.
 

72customdeluxe

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At 100 degrees and an old motor i'd be best off getting 10-40 right? Do you guys think thinner stuff would get to the ring pack better?
 
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 Originally Posted By: 72customdeluxe
I haven't seen any jugs of m1 high mile or high mile clean. Just quarts at auto parts stores for 7$ each. Do they have the 5-5.5 quart containers at wally world? The only syn that you are supposed to use with engine rx is group 3 right? What is mobil?
That's a good question! It seems almost certain that various M1 recipes contain significant-yet-variable amounts of Grp-4 PAO. You might try M1 (or other good syn oils) instead of RX. Whatever else the stuff may or may not do, M1 will clean your motor, rings and all. If you want to stick to the A-Rx battle plan, Wally sells 5 qt containers of Maxlife and similar 'dino' (Grp 3) HM oils for 10~12 bucks. Pick one, you really can't go wrong.
 
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 Originally Posted By: 72customdeluxe
I might have 40,000 miles, I might have 540,000 The odod rolls over at 100k but it's got 140k, maybe rebuilt, maybe not. Probably isn't
LOL The Mystery Motor!
 

72customdeluxe

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Well, I believe i'm going to pick up some 10-40 hm. Maybe the "clean" version. I have a nice new wix to go with it and that frees up the new hd30 I have for lawn mower duty and the pennzoil for next summer I guess. 27$ a bottle or so for auto rx relegates it to a last ditch effort before i get a new motor if this mobil doesn't work... Still have to check compression when I get home to settle the rings vs. valve seals debate. You can never see smoke driving along with my truck and it doesn't puff smoke or smell on start up like oil dripped down into the cylinders while off, so wouldn't you think it wasn't the seals? New plugs are going in too now that it doesn't seem to foul them so often.
 
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M1 HM oils have higher-than-average amounts of grp IV and grp V (for seal conditioning), likely mixed with a bit of grp III. So do not use this oil with Auto RX, as per their instructions. Their 10w40 HM works great in my '97 MB inline-6...even thinking of trying the 10w30 HM in my '08 Dodge to see how it compares to GC.
 
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DO NOT use Mobil 1, or any High Mileage oil for the Auto RX clean or rinse phases. Use a standard old conventional, like yellow bottle Pennzoil, white bottle Valvoline, green bottle Quaker State or some Castrol GTX.
 
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Maybe I'm in the minority here, but an old truck with a worn out 350 that "fouls plugs" would get no more than 10w40 dino from me. I might opt for some 10w40 maxlife or 15w40 Rotella based on the fact that it has a flat tappet camshaft. I see no need for synthetic in that old worn out engine...
 
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I generally retire my fleet on dino oil. I run my new cars on synthetic oil, for the added benefits synthetic oil offers me based on how I use the car. As they get older I switch over to dino oil. If I develop a leak, or start using a lot of oil, I'd switch to a HM oil, but would probably never use a synthetic HM oil because at that point I'd be running the cheaper dino version. When that happens like bubbatime said, "I see no need for synthetic oil in that old worn out engine." YMMV
 
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