Okay, so I have some questions about a few High Mileage oils. Between Maxlife, Mobil 1 HM, and Castrol HM, which does everyone prefer. Furthermore, if you wouldn't mind stating why. I understand their qualities such as viscosity are more robust, and the detergent package too. I know they have seal swelling properties exc exc. I am just trying to get a feel for who has the better of the 3. Thank you for any advice you may have.
High Mileage oil questions
- Thread starter Since1941
- Start date
- Status
Why are you looking for a high mileage oil? Is it burning a lot? How many miles does your engine have? (it states mint condition)
Not burning oil at all. I had the head redone. But, some have stated since I do a lot of short trips during the day, and since the engine is older, that it may be beneficial. The viscosity, detergents, and such would help out. I do about 7 mile trips down the road 4 times a day, and there is idling and stop and go...
Ive only used the old QSHM and PHM. Ex used CHM, imo PHM is the best. M1 is up there.
FWIW My truck used to leak oil around the pan, after a good year on QSHM and PHM 10w30, I now run 5w20 Synthetics with no leakage.
High Mileage oils are kind of a "Pick Your Flavor" type of deal.
I've run Mobil 1 HM in lawn equipment and cars.
I've run Valvoline Maxlife in tons of stuff.
I currently have Quaker State Defy in my Sister's Taurus as she has a Master's Degree yet cant figure out how to read the odometer and compare it to the Oil Change sticker.
It really does come down to "What brand do you Prefer?"
I've heard stories of Miracles happening with Mobile 1 10w40 High Mileage oil as well as Valvoline Maxlife 10w40. Don't know if this is due to it being a 40 weight and having a heavier add pack than the 30 weight, or if it is just folks with beaters that like 40 weights.
You can read up here. I'd suggest you pick a brand you like, stick with it, and document your experience here for all us Oil geeks to read.
BTW, What issues are you having?
I've run Mobil 1 HM in lawn equipment and cars.
I've run Valvoline Maxlife in tons of stuff.
I currently have Quaker State Defy in my Sister's Taurus as she has a Master's Degree yet cant figure out how to read the odometer and compare it to the Oil Change sticker.
It really does come down to "What brand do you Prefer?"
I've heard stories of Miracles happening with Mobile 1 10w40 High Mileage oil as well as Valvoline Maxlife 10w40. Don't know if this is due to it being a 40 weight and having a heavier add pack than the 30 weight, or if it is just folks with beaters that like 40 weights.
You can read up here. I'd suggest you pick a brand you like, stick with it, and document your experience here for all us Oil geeks to read.
BTW, What issues are you having?
What is your mileage? You stated no consumption, any oil leaks?
I like and use M1 HM because its a HM oil and M1 full synthetic. Best of both. Holds up to extended intervals. I use it to help with consumption and leaks, not because of the mileage. I would not use a HM oil if I didn't have to. I think today's modern synthetics (most of them) are excellent for any car, any mileage.
If your having no consumption or leak issues, a good synthetic like Pennzoil Ultra would be a good choice over a HM IMO.
If its the one in your signature however, man thats an oldie, maybe M1 HM would be a good idea. If you have not been using synthetics before, might leak when you switch over. why I like M1 HM, swells the seals shut. In the case of that vehicle, its not the miles, its the age, and what happens to rubber seals over time.
I like and use M1 HM because its a HM oil and M1 full synthetic. Best of both. Holds up to extended intervals. I use it to help with consumption and leaks, not because of the mileage. I would not use a HM oil if I didn't have to. I think today's modern synthetics (most of them) are excellent for any car, any mileage.
If your having no consumption or leak issues, a good synthetic like Pennzoil Ultra would be a good choice over a HM IMO.
If its the one in your signature however, man thats an oldie, maybe M1 HM would be a good idea. If you have not been using synthetics before, might leak when you switch over. why I like M1 HM, swells the seals shut. In the case of that vehicle, its not the miles, its the age, and what happens to rubber seals over time.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
What is your mileage? You stated no consumption, any oil leaks?
I like and use M1 HM because its a HM oil and M1 full synthetic. Best of both. Holds up to extended intervals. I use it to help with consumption and leaks, not because of the mileage. I would not use a HM oil if I didn't have to. I think today's modern synthetics (most of them) are excellent for any car, any mileage.
If your having no consumption or leak issues, a good synthetic like Pennzoil Ultra would be a good choice over a HM IMO.
If its the one in your signature however, man thats an oldie, maybe M1 HM would be a good idea. If you have not been using synthetics before, might leak when you switch over. why I like M1 HM, swells the seals shut. In the case of that vehicle, its not the miles, its the age, and what happens to rubber seals over time.
+1
hit the nail on the head here.
If you really don't need HM oil don't put it in. It may prove to be detrimental to the seals. The detergents may be strong enough to dislodge old accumulations and clog up oil galleries etc.
If your oil is working now why change? Also as mentioned don't suddenly change from mineral to sythetic, this can cause all sorts of issues on older engines.
Mine is an 88 boxer but I recently rebuilt it, clean enough to eat off inside before putting it back together. Mineral to break it in and then synthetic but a thick one due to an old crankshaft. Wasn't any need for a HM oil.
What is your mileage? You stated no consumption, any oil leaks?
I like and use M1 HM because its a HM oil and M1 full synthetic. Best of both. Holds up to extended intervals. I use it to help with consumption and leaks, not because of the mileage. I would not use a HM oil if I didn't have to. I think today's modern synthetics (most of them) are excellent for any car, any mileage.
If your having no consumption or leak issues, a good synthetic like Pennzoil Ultra would be a good choice over a HM IMO.
If its the one in your signature however, man thats an oldie, maybe M1 HM would be a good idea. If you have not been using synthetics before, might leak when you switch over. why I like M1 HM, swells the seals shut. In the case of that vehicle, its not the miles, its the age, and what happens to rubber seals over time.
+1
hit the nail on the head here.
If you really don't need HM oil don't put it in. It may prove to be detrimental to the seals. The detergents may be strong enough to dislodge old accumulations and clog up oil galleries etc.
If your oil is working now why change? Also as mentioned don't suddenly change from mineral to sythetic, this can cause all sorts of issues on older engines.
Mine is an 88 boxer but I recently rebuilt it, clean enough to eat off inside before putting it back together. Mineral to break it in and then synthetic but a thick one due to an old crankshaft. Wasn't any need for a HM oil.
Last edited:
not needed but maxlife has a great rep. i would get the everday easiest and cheapest to find. theyre all good
Previous owner ran Royal Purple. The engine is spotless inside. I found Mobil 1 0w40 on clearance for 1.00 ea. some say it may be to thick for my application. I have also considered doing Valvoline Synpower since I have heard its excellent and I will stay to shorter intervals since I drive stop and go. I though about HDEO also, to help cut fuel dilution, and keep engine clean.
Originally Posted By: Since1941
Not burning oil at all. I had the head redone. But, some have stated since I do a lot of short trips during the day, and since the engine is older, that it may be beneficial. The viscosity, detergents, and such would help out. I do about 7 mile trips down the road 4 times a day, and there is idling and stop and go...
If you are taking a lot of short trips, it actually may be better to use an oil on the thinner side of the grade recommended for your car. It will heat up more quickly and keep the engine well lubricated at startup. You are not burning any oil so why bother. Just use a good conventional and change more often if you are concerned.
Not burning oil at all. I had the head redone. But, some have stated since I do a lot of short trips during the day, and since the engine is older, that it may be beneficial. The viscosity, detergents, and such would help out. I do about 7 mile trips down the road 4 times a day, and there is idling and stop and go...
If you are taking a lot of short trips, it actually may be better to use an oil on the thinner side of the grade recommended for your car. It will heat up more quickly and keep the engine well lubricated at startup. You are not burning any oil so why bother. Just use a good conventional and change more often if you are concerned.
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Originally Posted By: Since1941
Not burning oil at all. I had the head redone. But, some have stated since I do a lot of short trips during the day, and since the engine is older, that it may be beneficial. The viscosity, detergents, and such would help out. I do about 7 mile trips down the road 4 times a day, and there is idling and stop and go...
If you are taking a lot of short trips, it actually may be better to use an oil on the thinner side of the grade recommended for your car. It will heat up more quickly and keep the engine well lubricated at startup. You are not burning any oil so why bother. Just use a good conventional and change more often if you are concerned.
I would only use a thinner winter rating oil and never the viscosity rating.
going from a 10w to 5w poses no issues and yes will lubricate quicker but changing the hot viscosity rating to a lower one is not recommended.
Maybe that's what you meant.
Originally Posted By: Since1941
Not burning oil at all. I had the head redone. But, some have stated since I do a lot of short trips during the day, and since the engine is older, that it may be beneficial. The viscosity, detergents, and such would help out. I do about 7 mile trips down the road 4 times a day, and there is idling and stop and go...
If you are taking a lot of short trips, it actually may be better to use an oil on the thinner side of the grade recommended for your car. It will heat up more quickly and keep the engine well lubricated at startup. You are not burning any oil so why bother. Just use a good conventional and change more often if you are concerned.
I would only use a thinner winter rating oil and never the viscosity rating.
going from a 10w to 5w poses no issues and yes will lubricate quicker but changing the hot viscosity rating to a lower one is not recommended.
Maybe that's what you meant.
Why use an expensive full synthetic in a cars that leaks or burns, until the seals are possibly swelled shut or otherwise fixed??
Long change intervals are not really happening.
It seems all the modern high mileage oils are biased in about the same way [compared to regular oils] , so pick one with a good price, and be happy.
Long change intervals are not really happening.
It seems all the modern high mileage oils are biased in about the same way [compared to regular oils] , so pick one with a good price, and be happy.
Britt33,
So, does that mean go with like a 5w40 maybe. Stay with the low winter rating and maybe a thicker operating temp rating? Maybe I misunderstood this. Like I said, that Mobil 1 0w40 is cheap right now. Truck doesn't leak or burn, and has had full synthetic in it. I though about that Synpower since it posts some really nice UOAs, and shows low wear metals.
So, does that mean go with like a 5w40 maybe. Stay with the low winter rating and maybe a thicker operating temp rating? Maybe I misunderstood this. Like I said, that Mobil 1 0w40 is cheap right now. Truck doesn't leak or burn, and has had full synthetic in it. I though about that Synpower since it posts some really nice UOAs, and shows low wear metals.
If I could buy M1 0W-40 for a buck a quart, there'd be no doubt in my mind what I'd be running.
If the truck neither leaks nor burns, forget the need for an HM oil.
M1 0W-40 has a stout add pack, exceeding that of most HM oils.
It also meets BMW and Mercedes certs that no HM oil can touch.
If the truck neither leaks nor burns, forget the need for an HM oil.
M1 0W-40 has a stout add pack, exceeding that of most HM oils.
It also meets BMW and Mercedes certs that no HM oil can touch.
Originally Posted By: Since1941
Britt33,
So, does that mean go with like a 5w40 maybe. Stay with the low winter rating and maybe a thicker operating temp rating? Maybe I misunderstood this. Like I said, that Mobil 1 0w40 is cheap right now. Truck doesn't leak or burn, and has had full synthetic in it. I though about that Synpower since it posts some really nice UOAs, and shows low wear metals.
e
What are your ambient temps when starting in winter?
Remember a 5w40 will maintain its polymers in a better state for longer than a 0w40. 0w is extremely thin and only necessary is very cold climates IMO. Even a 5w is very thin.
The closer the 2 numbers the more stable the oil stays for a longer time.
Mind you I'm using a 10w60 but change it often. 60 because the engine gets hot in our street/driving conditions here in Montevideo.
10w or 15w should be fine in ambient temps of 32 degrees F or more.
Also don't choose an oil because it is cheap. Engine repairs are much more expensive.
I spend 100 USD on an oil change here.
Britt33,
So, does that mean go with like a 5w40 maybe. Stay with the low winter rating and maybe a thicker operating temp rating? Maybe I misunderstood this. Like I said, that Mobil 1 0w40 is cheap right now. Truck doesn't leak or burn, and has had full synthetic in it. I though about that Synpower since it posts some really nice UOAs, and shows low wear metals.
e
What are your ambient temps when starting in winter?
Remember a 5w40 will maintain its polymers in a better state for longer than a 0w40. 0w is extremely thin and only necessary is very cold climates IMO. Even a 5w is very thin.
The closer the 2 numbers the more stable the oil stays for a longer time.
Mind you I'm using a 10w60 but change it often. 60 because the engine gets hot in our street/driving conditions here in Montevideo.
10w or 15w should be fine in ambient temps of 32 degrees F or more.
Also don't choose an oil because it is cheap. Engine repairs are much more expensive.
I spend 100 USD on an oil change here.
Last edited:
I have a 2002 Honda Accord that just passed 320K miles (NOT a typo!), and have been dealing with consumption issues for a good 3 years now.
I've been going with Maxlife/Maxlife NextGen at all of my oil changes since passing 100K (used Durablend prior to that), and have just recently started using Pennzoil High Mileage as the "top-off" oil. Maybe I'm seeing a tiny bit of improved fuel economy since I began adding the PHM a few weeks back, but that could be nothing more than "butt dyno" perception. I'm impressed with the apparent seal swelling capability as well, as it seems like I'm topping off at a slower rate.
I've been going with Maxlife/Maxlife NextGen at all of my oil changes since passing 100K (used Durablend prior to that), and have just recently started using Pennzoil High Mileage as the "top-off" oil. Maybe I'm seeing a tiny bit of improved fuel economy since I began adding the PHM a few weeks back, but that could be nothing more than "butt dyno" perception. I'm impressed with the apparent seal swelling capability as well, as it seems like I'm topping off at a slower rate.
The Pennzoil HM has a higher HTHS than Maxlife, if anything it should slow down your "butt dyno" and mpg, but it would account for possibly lower consumption.
With 320k miles on Valvoline products you can hardly knock the product. It would be fun to see the inside of your engine though!
With 320k miles on Valvoline products you can hardly knock the product. It would be fun to see the inside of your engine though!
Except the reality of M1 0-40 for $1/qt. is and won't be happening!
Originally Posted By: Brit33
0w is extremely thin and only necessary is very cold climates IMO. Even a 5w is very thin.
FWIW - According the the viscosity graph that has been referenced here a few times the 0w is not at thin as it might seem. For example, given this graph, Mobil 1 0w40 and M1 0w30 are both thicker at 0 Celcius than PU 5w30. And MC 5w20 is even thinner yet.
0w is extremely thin and only necessary is very cold climates IMO. Even a 5w is very thin.
FWIW - According the the viscosity graph that has been referenced here a few times the 0w is not at thin as it might seem. For example, given this graph, Mobil 1 0w40 and M1 0w30 are both thicker at 0 Celcius than PU 5w30. And MC 5w20 is even thinner yet.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
