Help with broken mini-fridge

[Popinski]

I picked up a mini-fridge on the side of the road. The old lady told me that it doesn't cool anymore.

-I cleaned the fan and condensor, still doesn't cool.

-The compressor relay is clicking on and off every 1 minute.

-Compressor is warm, is this a sign of a good working compressor?

-Defrost works well.

nything else? Please hurry, beer is getting warm.

 

[NHGUY]

Might not have any freon??

 

[bullwinkle]

Likely the compressor is drawing high amps and the overload or "Klixon" is opening every time the compressor tries to start. You'll need an amprobe or ammeter to see if the compressor is drawing high amps.

 

[Al]

Yea if its going out on high amps its probably history.

 

[bullwinkle]

That's why it was on the side of the road!

 

[Al]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
That's why it was on the side of the road!

LOLZ..

 

[Quest]

LOL! the compressor is probably either seized up, or one of the coil windings shorted to the ground, or bad/faulty motor run capacitor.

To test capacitor: get a known used/new one (soggy paper, polyprop, etc. doesn't matter so long as it can hold up to 600V AC) of same capacitance then replace it. If the compressor starts, you know the original one is faulty.

To test stuck/seized rotor inside compressor, you need an AC clamp meter. Clamp either neutral or live and watch the meter as you plug it in. If it stays around 6~8amps all the time, try rapping the compressor housing with a hammer to see if it starts to run again (provided that the capacitor is good, and the rotor frees itself, you shall see the clamp meter drops down to less than 1amp reading) If it does, you are able to free the compressor rotor until the next time (it may freeze/jam again in the near future).

To test coil: get and analogue meter set to Rx100 or Rx1k, test 1 of the 3 connector in sequence (unplugged and AC power cord not connected to AC). to ground. If you get readings out of 1 or more of the coil windings to the outer compressor casing, the coil has shorted to the ground and nothing you can do to restore it.

Good luck.

Q.

 

[Drew99GT]

Once you get it fixed, it'll work perfectly to keep TV dinners and hot dogs fresh!

 

[greenaccord02]

Originally Posted By: Quest
LOL! the compressor is probably either seized up, or one of the coil windings shorted to the ground, or bad/faulty motor run capacitor.

To test capacitor: get a known used/new one (soggy paper, polyprop, etc. doesn't matter so long as it can hold up to 600V AC) of same capacitance then replace it. If the compressor starts, you know the original one is faulty.

To test stuck/seized rotor inside compressor, you need an AC clamp meter. Clamp either neutral or live and watch the meter as you plug it in. If it stays around 6~8amps all the time, try rapping the compressor housing with a hammer to see if it starts to run again (provided that the capacitor is good, and the rotor frees itself, you shall see the clamp meter drops down to less than 1amp reading) If it does, you are able to free the compressor rotor until the next time (it may freeze/jam again in the near future).

To test coil: get and analogue meter set to Rx100 or Rx1k, test 1 of the 3 connector in sequence (unplugged and AC power cord not connected to AC). to ground. If you get readings out of 1 or more of the coil windings to the outer compressor casing, the coil has shorted to the ground and nothing you can do to restore it.

Good luck.

Q.

Very useful info here. I often see old "classy-looking" mini fridges that would compliment my bar quite well, but didn't know how to do perform troubleshooting tests.