Help w GTI 2.0T FSI: M1 0w40, T6 or Pennzoil Euro?

[teekoh]

Hi I just bought a 2007 GTI with 130,000km on it. I changed the cam follower and it looks like I caught it just in time. Can someone tell me whether I need a low saps or mid saps oil with this engine and what exactly does that mean?

I've spent hours pouring over the various posts and it seems that most ppl use either Mobile 1 0W40 or Rotella T6.

I was also wondering if Pennzoil Ultra Euro is worth the extra cost?

Are there newer SM oils that would work better for this engine?

 

[badtlc]

Mobil1 0W40 meets the VW Spec in NA and is the safe pick.

T6 is a good oil but doesn't meet the spec. It would be a good choice, too.

Only european VWs call for the low SAPS oils because they have low sulfur fuel over there.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
Only european VWs call for the low SAPS oils

North American VWs with diesel engines call for low SAPS oils, too.

There is a school of thought (from Lubrizol, I believe) that claims that low SAPS oils help reduce DI valve deposits. Not sure that there is enough proof out there to confirm or deny.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: teekoh
Hi I just bought a 2007 GTI with 130,000km on it. I changed the cam follower and it looks like I caught it just in time. Can someone tell me whether I need a low saps or mid saps oil with this engine and what exactly does that mean?

If you're willing to keep your OCI relatively short, then I'd look into a low Noack and low SAPS oil. Mobil1 ESP 5w-30 comes to mind. Not sure how easily available it is where you are.

 

[Rat407]

If interested, AMSOIL's AFL or EFM 5w-40 will work also.

 

[teekoh]

Is it true that T6 being formulated for diesel has more additives to help prevent DI deposits vs M1? Is there a motor oil that excels in preventing DI deposits?

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: teekoh
Is it true that T6 being formulated for diesel has more additives to help prevent DI deposits vs M1? Is there a motor oil that excels in preventing DI deposits?


Evaporability should be the focus in preventing DI valve deposits. The unfortunate reality is we have a hot wet oil/water/vapour mix from the PCV, and we have a hot, dry, sooty dust blown in from the EGR. It doesn't take much to figure out that oil formulation is not the problem

 

[camrydriver111]

Out of those choices I'd just go with M1.

PU would work. Is it worth paying extra over M1? Highly doubt it.

You will probably chaning it way before any serious deposits form.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: teekoh
Is it true that T6 being formulated for diesel has more additives to help prevent DI deposits vs M1? Is there a motor oil that excels in preventing DI deposits?

M1 0w40 has more additives than t6. But Oil additives do not prevent di deposits. In fact, the more additives in oil, the more deposits may be left behind as the oil evaporates.

 

[teekoh]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: teekoh
Hi I just bought a 2007 GTI with 130,000km on it. I changed the cam follower and it looks like I caught it just in time. Can someone tell me whether I need a low saps or mid saps oil with this engine and what exactly does that mean?

If you're willing to keep your OCI relatively short, then I'd look into a low Noack and low SAPS oil. Mobil1 ESP 5w-30 comes to mind. Not sure how easily available it is where you are.


Is it alright to use 5w30 if the manual recommends 5w40? I'm still new to understanding motor oils.

 

[Delta]

2007? Spec 502 then which is a xw40. I've used T6, Castrol 5w40 (ugh, don't tell nobody...) and currently Castrol 0w40. Don't notice any different, I mainly used the T6 for a couple runs to help clean up the previous owners gunk. If you got 130,000 KM and you don't have a cold start missfire, you're probably golden for now carbon wise, but it is about the time you see it happen.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Delta
2007? Spec 502 then which is a xw40. I've used T6, Castrol 5w40 (ugh, don't tell nobody...) and currently Castrol 0w40. Don't notice any different, I mainly used the T6 for a couple runs to help clean up the previous owners gunk. If you got 130,000 KM and you don't have a cold start missfire, you're probably golden for now carbon wise, but it is about the time you see it happen.


No, it's not. 502 is 502 irrespective of grade. There are lots of approved -30 oils that meet 502:

http://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/audiusa/Documents/Audi-1997-2014-Technical-Service-Bulletin.pdf

 

[Thermo1223]

I would personally use Mobil 0w40, as I used it in just about every VW I had my hands on. It works and is supported by them.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: teekoh
Is it alright to use 5w30 if the manual recommends 5w40? I'm still new to understanding motor oils.

QP won't send you astray. If you wish to try that product, an Imperial Oil distributor would be your best bet. I believe it's on the current sell sheet.

 

[teekoh]

I found Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 at Canadian Tire but close to $17 a litre/quart!! I don't think it's feasible at that price...

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: teekoh
I found Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 at Canadian Tire but close to $17 a litre/quart!! I don't think it's feasible at that price...





Check amazon.ca for Motul, most of their grades are priced very reasonably on there!

 

[teekoh]

Is there a low Noack and low SAPS oil made by Motul?

 

[VR6OOM]

Motul 8100 x-clean c3 5w40 is mid saps and low noack. Probably a 5k mile oci oil in NA.

 

[teekoh]

Originally Posted By: VR6OOM
Motul 8100 x-clean c3 5w40 is mid saps and low noack. Probably a 5k mile oci oil in NA.


Would you recommend that over M1 0w40? I can get the X-clean locally for $56 for 5 Litres and M1 for $52.

Anyone know the NOACK levels for X-clean c3? I read from Dmitry_K's VOA that M1 0w40 NOACK is 8.9% and 8.7% for the ESP version.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Actually the esp 5w30 has noack around 5.6%.