Help me PREVENT rust in this wheel well..

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Originally Posted By: expat
Some years back I had a spray can of wire rope lube. The stuff fishermen use on our coastal waters.

It sprays on and penitrates very well, but then sets up like a semi hard tar.

I used it in the inner wheel arches of my Triumph, I just tested it, no cracks and still semi hard after 17 years!

I wish I remembered the brand.

Lots of wire rope lubes out there, and probably not expensive.


Wire rope lube can be almost like asphalt. Maybe it contains resin? A mixture or turpentine, paraffin and oil will produce an uncdercoating type product.
 
this goes back many years but we had a 1986 German made Jetta and, IIRC, the bolts that held the front fenders on had a rectangular spacer that was under the bolt. The spacer was zinc coated? and reduces steel to steel rust and bi metallic corrosion. I never thought of using it for other vehicle, nor do I know if similar VW product is still available or used.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwjohn
this goes back many years but we had a 1986 German made Jetta and, IIRC, the bolts that held the front fenders on had a rectangular spacer that was under the bolt. The spacer was zinc coated? and reduces steel to steel rust and bi metallic corrosion. I never thought of using it for other vehicle, nor do I know if similar VW product is still available or used.


Boats and ships use sacrifical anodes in an effort to redice the corrosion of steel. From what I've heard, similar systems for land vehicles have proven uselss.
 
Well, I can't tell if it was serious or not that humidity makes rust. The way it was worded, I can't detect sarcasm if it was there, or if it was a serious answer.

However, I ordered a can of this. Corossion X HD http://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-X-Anti-C...=corrosion+x+hd

Now, if I can figure out how to use it properly - spray on when surface is dry? Does it say so on the can? - then I should be good to go.. One of my vehicles has a "decent amount of underside rust" and the other one actually has LESS rust than most others (even though the outside is otherwise mutilated somehow) so.. Should be worth checking out.

I wonder if I can do a large SUV, a mid-size one, and a car with one can.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwjohn
this goes back many years but we had a 1986 German made Jetta and, IIRC, the bolts that held the front fenders on had a rectangular spacer that was under the bolt. The spacer was zinc coated? and reduces steel to steel rust and bi metallic corrosion. I never thought of using it for other vehicle, nor do I know if similar VW product is still available or used.


My first car was a 1986 Jetta Deluxe. VIN code WVW indicates German manufacture.

Loved that car. Then a Caprice (last year of the Classic style, I think 1990, before they looked like hard-boiled eggs) T-boned it on the driver's side. I was fine.. jumped out passenger side after it spun me around the intersection. Center of Caprice grille hit the B-pillar...

I forget is that car had any rust issues, maybe some surface rust on the bottom undercarriage, but nothing too bad.

I would buy another of that one, too. I loved that car.
 
Originally Posted By: expat
Waxoyl is a good product, but not easily available this side of the pond.

I the past I have used a truck bed linner coating and backed it up with a gooey coat of Fluid film or whatever.


With the Internet and mail order, everything's easily available. Just from eBay I've had car parts from Japan, Greece, Poland, Australia and Canada!

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=waxoyl&_sacat=0
Seems there are plenty of vendors willing to send it to you w/ free shipping!
 
I just bought a can of the Corrosion-X HD stuff. Washed the wheel wells, thoroughly, It is about 100 degrees today. About 5 maybe 10 minutes later, I sprayed any visibly rusty area under my two cars, and a rust spot on the tailgate of the Envoy.

I will need to get another car but it should be drying really nice now. Water ran clear off the car areas. "Rinsed" will full water stream.. all up in the wheel wells..
 
Originally Posted By: BRZED
I'd use Waxoyl or any other high quality wax coating. A thin layer woks best, because wax can get runny when it's hot and it's hard to remove when it gets onto areas where you don't want it. But in terms of rust protection that stuff rules. Perfect for undercarriage, sealing howllow areas, wheel arches and other areas that are out of sight.


http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/Products.aspx?code=WAX-001&key=cat


Says they don't supply to individuals. Possibly a re-branding attempt for the US market, since its firmly established in the DIY market in the UK.

It'll also work better with pro spray equipment which'll help them build a local rep.

I used Waxoyl many years ago in the UK and didn't think much of it. Difficult to spray with the kit provided, limited creep and self healing, skins and ultimately peels.

Perhaps they've improved it.

I "graduated" to diesel fuel mixed with engine or vegetable oil.
 
Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Just spray the road salt and sand off with fresh water and their will be no issues during the service life of the car.


I'm generally of this mindset. I have had cars krowned, have used a variety of sprays from corrosion-x to crc 6-56, to others, and have been impressed by the fact that the krown stays in place enough to keep some sand and dirt on parts.

So a creeping oil might work, but in the arches at the lip like that, I think water keeping it clean is best. It's a spot that can be kept that way.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: BRZED
I'd use Waxoyl or any other high quality wax coating. A thin layer woks best, because wax can get runny when it's hot and it's hard to remove when it gets onto areas where you don't want it. But in terms of rust protection that stuff rules. Perfect for undercarriage, sealing howllow areas, wheel arches and other areas that are out of sight.


http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/Products.aspx?code=WAX-001&key=cat


Says they don't supply to individuals. Possibly a re-branding attempt for the US market, since its firmly established in the DIY market in the UK.

It'll also work better with pro spray equipment which'll help them build a local rep.

I used Waxoyl many years ago in the UK and didn't think much of it. Difficult to spray with the kit provided, limited creep and self healing, skins and ultimately peels.

Perhaps they've improved it.

I "graduated" to diesel fuel mixed with engine or vegetable oil.


I did have one of my Mercedes cars sprayed with it. For better or worse,mince they came from the factory with a thick rubber coating underneath,I'm wanted to add protection and seal it off a bit. The car is totally rust free. P
Looks good, smells ok now, but touch it and you get dirty. Makes working under your car on your back a bit of a pain...
 
A wire rope lube was mentioned. Something similar in what was described is Schaeffer SilverStreak. I use it for 5th wheel applications on commercial trucks. Never considered it for rust prevention, but now my interest is piqued.

I have been using and grown partial to Amsoil's Heavy Duty Metal Protector product. Very cost effective and does a great job. I use it on my semi truck suspension and frame components. Once sprayed on, dries to a waxy like covering that doesn't attract much dirt. Stays pretty good thru several high pressure washings. Even then, at about $6.50 a can including sales tax, it is very cost effective to use repeatedly if needed.
 
I would suspect unprotected wheelwells like that (ie: no liners) would wash out any of those products within various timeframes. I used FF on my vehicles, but it doesn't stay put in the wells for nothing. Since you are looking good so far what not brush on some bedliner or something? In fact, I bet a good primer + black paint like rustoleum would do a great job.
 
Originally Posted By: buck91
I would suspect unprotected wheelwells like that (ie: no liners) would wash out any of those products within various timeframes. I used FF on my vehicles, but it doesn't stay put in the wells for nothing. Since you are looking good so far what not brush on some bedliner or something? In fact, I bet a good primer + black paint like rustoleum would do a great job.


A few years ago I experimented with sunflower oil as a tyre sidewall protectant.

Last week I removed the plastic wheel arch liners to spray diesel/veg/motor oil behind them and noticed that one of them had what looked like a plastic coating on part of the surface.

My best guess is that, for one of the tyre applications, I used an excess of sunflower oil and/or didn't leave it long enough to "go off" and it got spun out onto the inside of the wheel arches.

I've never properly evaluated straight sunflower oil as a rust treatment. My feeling was that it would probably skin solid and rust might get behind it (as with paint) and, if it was any use at all in this role (which I'm still not certain of) it was probably better used mixed with oil/diesel which would stop (or at least slow) its setting.

Not so sure now. This stuff was stuck on VERY well. It MIGHT be relevant that, IIRC, it forms epoxides as it oxidises.

I have used it "straight" as a paint, combined with aluminium, in which role it seems effective and is nice to use, since getting it on your hands is not a concern. As a cavity rust-treatment I've only used it straight inside doors. It grows mould there, and probably would in any enclosed space, (though doors get wetter than most) but wheel arches are pretty well ventilated.
 
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I've been satisfied with FF. Yes, it will wash off over time in high-wash areas, but from my experience a yearly touchup before winter is all that's needed.

For me it only washes off in high-spray areas, and when you touch it it's still clear there's some there, just not a large amount.

I sprayed my truck and drove it for my normal commute (30 miles each way on the highway) in all weather conditions and didn't experience much wash off. There's still lots of FF present on areas like the frame that get sprayed but not sprayed as much as the wheel wells.
 
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