Havoline or GTX dino.
Help me decide! Full Syn or Semi Syn
- Thread starter OriginHacker21
- Start date
- Status
Quote:
Oh, and the car is a 2.2L Ecotec in an 04 Pontiac Sunfire. Yeah, it isn't any BMW but its my first car.
So WHAT if it's not a BMW! Geeze, I'm sick to death of the myth that great cars are expensive. YOUR cars ARE special, no matter what the budget is. One's first cars are extra special and they deserve to be cared for right too, so detail away because NICE GIRLS appreciate clean, shiny cars. They dig a man with a plan who knows what he's doing and why.
Trop Arctic with a 5,000 mile interval would be perfect for your car. The Ecotec is a good engine.
Quote:
Sootyoil,
Well, I not sure what to say to this. I know Synthetic oil does burn cleaner.Also flows better in the cold.
What really bothers me about Amsoil, is that I switched a high mileage car over to it. Amsoil said not to worry just go 25000miles/1yr on my first interval. I asked them over and over. The said not to worry. 11000miles later there was rust forming on the dipstick, oil consumption went though the roof. I now understand that the oil was dirty. I have been changing my Amsoil every 6000 miles with no troubles.
Amsoil will clean the engine and you will consume oil. When the engine is clean the compsumption will decrease. In my experience it takes around 30/40thousand miles to completely clean out a dirty crude oil engine.
Using a Amsoil EaO filter will capture anything larger than 16 micron, and the bypass filter will catch anything larger than 2 micron. using the bypass will keep the oil clean and increase your drain intervals beyond 25thousand miles.
Not true for Castrol Syntec 0W-30, which uses a PAO basestock.
Wrong again...how many threads are you going to post this nonsense in?
Thanks again for all the posts! Johnnyb showed me where to get auto-rx so I plan on doing that sometime soon. Although I've been doing very short synthetic OCIs (should have a clean engine) auto-rx shouldn't hurt.
Today is my second day with TropArtic in the crankcase. Engine sounds auditably different but seems to climb the RPM range a lot faster (lighter oil compared to GC?). GC did keep the engine quieter. Either way - 4,700 miles from now we'll do a used oil analysis and see how Trop Artic did
.
Today is my second day with TropArtic in the crankcase. Engine sounds auditably different but seems to climb the RPM range a lot faster (lighter oil compared to GC?). GC did keep the engine quieter. Either way - 4,700 miles from now we'll do a used oil analysis and see how Trop Artic did
Quote:
Not true for Castrol Syntec 0W-30, which uses a PAO basestock.
Wrong again...how many threads are you going to post this nonsense in?
could you help me Im trying to find info on PAO base oil in Syntec formula
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915470&contentId=6003468
The American Castrol Syntec 0w30 is still group III (as far as I can tell), but the German Castrol is PAO.
Just what this board needs...
Another troll.
Quote:
Just what this board needs...
Another troll.
what does this have to do with the topic?
the least you could do is use fact's to back up your remark
Quote:
the least you could do is use fact's to back up your remark
You spell like you're an amsoil salesman or something.
Let's see... You sell amsoil, you come on here claiming Mobil 1 is not PAO, I don't think I need any more facts. Or "fact's" either.
Oops, violated my own rule..
Quote:
Haven't touched the coolant yet. I gotta do that and the spark plugs pretty soon. I guess the Power Steering fluid could use some changing too. Blah, how am I ever going to sleep tonight? Thanks ASL
Nah, I think I've successfully scared Paul from doing any repair work after he saw my complex procedure for changing a motor mount.
Anyway, with your driving conditions, use 5w30 conventional oil and the cheapest oil filter @ 7500 mi service interval. The oil gets plenty hot during your driving conditions, and you'd fall into the normal service schedule.
Just for the record for us normal and uninformed - Mobil 1 is PAO right? PP is group III, Castrol syntec III. right?
Quote:
Quote:
Just what this board needs...
Another troll.
what does this have to do with the topic?
the least you could do is use fact's to back up your remark
Last edited by a moderator:
Sooty, you're an old timer here a month and 2 weeks.. You KNOW Mobil 1 is PAO. GC 0W30 is PAO.
PP used to be Full Synthetic EOP, prior to approximately 11/2005. Even in a month you'd figure it out. Why you trolling?
PP used to be Full Synthetic EOP, prior to approximately 11/2005. Even in a month you'd figure it out. Why you trolling?
Quote:
Sooty, you're an old timer here a month and 2 weeks.. You KNOW Mobil 1 is PAO. GC 0W30 is PAO.
PP used to be Full Synthetic EOP, prior to approximately 11/2005. Even in a month you'd figure it out. Why you trolling?
ok I stand corrected, I apologize for the misleading information, I got a lil carried away, Mobile sued Castrol cause they backed out of PAO and still called it synthetic oil. Mobil said no fair and went to the (NAD) but they lost anyway, but for years they did sell synthetic oil sans the PAO and finally stepped up here is why>>>> In a press release dated April 14, 1999, Mobil Corporation announced its upgrade of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to Mobil 1 tri-Synthetic Formula. The press release states:, "New Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula combines three highly advanced synthetic polymers with an innovative anti-wear additive package developed by Mobil engineers and chemists."
AMSOIL Technical Services Manager Byron Selbrede is not overwhelmingly impressed. "It is not earth shattering news,", said Selbrede. "It sounds like things we have been doing for years." Selbrede says based on the press release, the new Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Formula offers nothing more than AMSOIL synthetic lubricants do, and quite a bit less. "We've moved beyond the multiple base stock technology. They're still playing catch-up with us."
The fact that Mobil is trying to catch-up is a good indication that the market is swinging in favor of AMSOIL synthetic motor oils. Market research must have convinced Mobil that qualities like cold morning start-ups and protection in hot highway stop and go driving benefits built into AMSOIL motor oils for many years- are what today's consumers want.
There's a statement in the press release which offers a good indication of AMSOIL's technological lead. It refers to Mobil 1's upgrade in 1992. "The press release states that Mobil Corporation upgraded the Mobil 1 formulation in 1992 to incorporate synthetic jet engine technology," said Selbrede. "AMSOIL started out with jet engine oil technology from the beginning in 1972." For those doing the math, that's a 20 year lead.
Quote:
Sooty, you're an old timer here a month and 2 weeks.. You KNOW Mobil 1 is PAO. GC 0W30 is PAO.
PP used to be Full Synthetic EOP, prior to approximately 11/2005. Even in a month you'd figure it out. Why you trolling?
man I made that last post, the very next thread I read here at BITOG was this>>>>
Pages: 1 | 2 | >> (show all)
Tom NJ
Group II Member
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 103
Loc: New Jersey Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 Goes Group III
#749606 - 10/30/06 05:28 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
Just shot some Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 into the Gas Chromatograph and was surprised to find it based mostly on mineral oil (presumably Group III) plus a good slug of AN. It may also contain a small amount of PAO, but so small that I can't be certain.
Et tu, Brute?
Tom
Hmmmm Life is always interresting
Here's a few used oil analysis from 2.2L Ecotecs with OCIs slightly longer than 3k/3m:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=238846
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=254765
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=251710
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=251393
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=247800
All did just fine, looks like you posted in a few. The 2.2L Ecotec seems to be a pretty well designed engine so far. IMO, since most of your miles are highway, you could go a little further than 3k-5k on dino, syn, or blend and still get what you wanted if cost is an issue. Search for " mostly highway " in subject and body, with the date range blanked out in Gas Engine Used Oil Analysis. I think you'll see a trend. Using Chevron w/Techron so often is a bit of a waste, IMO. Maybe higher lead levels will show up in a used oil analysis too? (Bearing wear?) Does your car's manual call for 89 octane, or are you using it for some other reason?
There were two used oil analysis (very short runs) I saw that you had done previously, and they both looked quite good. You really wouldn't be taking much of a risk mechanically in my opinion if you bumped your OCI up a wee bit or used plain old dino. (Nasty, dirty dino... makes your car filthy inside! Cold and black like sin!). If you want to listen to anyone's general opinion, listen to what Bill in Utah said; he's got a great collection of used oil analysis on dino with mostly highway miles. I think that kind of routine will keep your engine nice and clean. Run some Auto Rx at 400,000 miles if you're that picky. Good to see you're taking care of your car.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=238846
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=254765
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=251710
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=251393
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB3&Number=247800
All did just fine, looks like you posted in a few. The 2.2L Ecotec seems to be a pretty well designed engine so far. IMO, since most of your miles are highway, you could go a little further than 3k-5k on dino, syn, or blend and still get what you wanted if cost is an issue. Search for " mostly highway " in subject and body, with the date range blanked out in Gas Engine Used Oil Analysis. I think you'll see a trend. Using Chevron w/Techron so often is a bit of a waste, IMO. Maybe higher lead levels will show up in a used oil analysis too? (Bearing wear?) Does your car's manual call for 89 octane, or are you using it for some other reason?
There were two used oil analysis (very short runs) I saw that you had done previously, and they both looked quite good. You really wouldn't be taking much of a risk mechanically in my opinion if you bumped your OCI up a wee bit or used plain old dino. (Nasty, dirty dino... makes your car filthy inside! Cold and black like sin!). If you want to listen to anyone's general opinion, listen to what Bill in Utah said; he's got a great collection of used oil analysis on dino with mostly highway miles. I think that kind of routine will keep your engine nice and clean. Run some Auto Rx at 400,000 miles if you're that picky. Good to see you're taking care of your car.
Quote:
man I made that last post, the very next thread I read here at BITOG was this>>>>
Pages: 1 | 2 | >> (show all)
Tom NJ
Group II Member
Reged: 07/28/06
Posts: 103
Loc: New Jersey Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 Goes Group III
#749606 - 10/30/06 05:28 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
Just shot some Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 into the Gas Chromatograph and was surprised to find it based mostly on mineral oil (presumably Group III) plus a good slug of AN. It may also contain a small amount of PAO, but so small that I can't be certain.
Et tu, Brute?
Tom
Hmmmm Life is always interresting
Yes sir, oil-gate is on with the M1 ppl...
Post cut down for shortness:
Thanks for the post JerryS. Since forever I've always thought Dino = black dirty filthy engine. Now, I'm coming to the realization that usually black/dirty/filthy results from too long of an OCI, leak, or other engine related problems.
Manual calls for 87 octane. My compression ratio is 10:1 and apparently I have a "knock sensor" that should be able to advance the spark. Butt Dyno says car feels more powerful with 91 octane so I just use 89 (best of both worlds) and a tank of 91 every now and then. lol. Any comments welcome on the above.
I am going to try and go 5,000 miles on this oil then do a used oil analysis. That will be something to look forward to in a month or so.
Quote:
Does your car's manual call for 89 octane, or are you using it for some other reason? (Nasty, dirty dino... makes your car filthy inside! Cold and black like sin!). Good to see you're taking care of your car.
Thanks for the post JerryS. Since forever I've always thought Dino = black dirty filthy engine. Now, I'm coming to the realization that usually black/dirty/filthy results from too long of an OCI, leak, or other engine related problems.
Manual calls for 87 octane. My compression ratio is 10:1 and apparently I have a "knock sensor" that should be able to advance the spark. Butt Dyno says car feels more powerful with 91 octane so I just use 89 (best of both worlds) and a tank of 91 every now and then. lol. Any comments welcome on the above.
I am going to try and go 5,000 miles on this oil then do a used oil analysis. That will be something to look forward to in a month or so.
- Status