Oil's Adhesive Observations

[OriginHacker21]

Just a little observation. I've run GC, Amsoil, Mobil in my vehicle throughout its life. Now, I've done one run of Trop Artic 5w30 semi-synthetic. I check the dipstick several times every week as part of my maintenance program

One thing I noticed was - With GC and Amsoil - when I pulled the dipstick - it was completely covered with oil showing no "bald" or oilless spots on the dipstick. Now with TropArtic I'm noticing that it doesn't adhere to the dipstick very well - it runs off as if it was thinner or more water like showing bald spots or parts of the dipstick not covered in oil.

TropArtic definitely doesn't seem to stick to the dipstick as well as Amsoil and GC did. Does this mean my engine isn't coated as well with TropArtic as it would be with GC and Amsoil? Logically - startup wear would be increased, right?

Any cause for alarm? Opinions/comments all welcomed. -Paul

 

[oilyriser]

I've noticed that, too. some oils bead up a bit, while others have less surface tension on metal. Different detergents?

 

[The Critic]

Amsoil and GC are both about 20% more viscous than Trop Artic, especially toward the end of the drain.

The temperature you check the oil at, can make all the difference as well.

The 5500+ mi fill of Texaco 5w30 in the GM adheres just fine to the dipstick.

 

[OriginHacker21]

TropArtic is almost 3,000 miles in my car. I see what you mean by checking oil at different temperatures - like after a drive or after a night of 40F.

I'll say one thing - I can really feel a difference between this oil and GC 0w30. Car revs a lot easier but I don't see an increase in MPG.


oilyriser - yeah - I wonder if that affects startup wear at all. I would think that covering engine parts = less startup wear. Also, like you said - maybe a full synthetic's detergents allow it to stick better than a semi-synthetic.

Oh well. Thx for the info guys!

 

[The_Jeff]

what if the alloy the dipstick is made of is not representative of the metals in the cam, rockers, etc?

 

[Ray H]

What if the hyper boron amounts (an anti-wear additive that lays down a protective dry film coating on metal parts) in ConocoPhillips syn-blends tend to shed motor oil? Any similar observations regarding Motorcraft synthetic blends - also blended and bottled by C/P?

(A personal observation: I'm now on my second run of TropArtic 10w30 SM Synthetic Blend. ('03 Sonata V6, 23,000+ accumulated miles). Prior to the T/A, I had been running Chevron Supreme 10w30 SL. Cold starts in the morning almost always "caught" on the third or fourth compression stroke. But, with the T/A, even with cooler morning temperatures (in the mid-to-low 50s F., currently) the motor awakens and asks, "Where to, Boss?" on the first or second compression stroke. I'm still on the original spark plugs and air filter. Go figure.)

 

[Bryanccfshr]

Interesting observations guys. I have unfortuantely never run tropartic or motorcraft without a dose of LC so my results are different or my engines are just hard to read. Other than that the oil levels stay stable, and there are no abnormalities to report of the subjective drivers perspective.

 

[JAG]

Borate esters work with ZDDP in such a way that the boron atom takes the role that the zinc atom normally take in the glass-like coating that ZDDP products form. The layer forms when localized temps reach a certain quite high temp (can't recall off top of my head but it's well over 212F) which can also be achieved by sufficient rubbing. What I'm getting at is neither ZDDP nor borate esters are going to form a significant layer on the end of the dipstick because it undergoes no rubbing and only sees oil temps of probably 200-250 F at most. Anyhow, that's what I've learned after researching how those two anti-wear additives work. I reserve the right to be wrong.

I've seen some oils leave bald spots on the dipstick too. That indicates the cohesive forces of the oil (surface tension) exceed the adhesive forces between the oil and the bald spots on the dipstick. I don't know what to make of it though since so many factors are at work: many additives as well as the basestocks and the carrier oil type. It makes sense to me that even something like adding more anti-foam additives could make a big difference in presence of bald spots. I bet if you whipe silicone spray on the dipstick, insert it into the sump, then pull it out, there will be huge bald spots.

 

[bruce381]

Some FM esters will "wet" better than others or none at all and will coat the dipsick also some oils may have Anti foam or De foamers in them and they also will also affect metal wetting.
bruce

 

[OriginHacker21]

Wow thanks for all the information! eljefino - good question - the dipstick is a silver metalish (looks just like the inside of the engine) - but yeah, I have no idea if they are the same. I just know that Amsoil, GC, and Mobil (what I've used in past) all coated the dipstick like syrup.

Ray-H - Pretty similar experience here as well. Ever since I went to TropArtic - startups have been much easier - my engine starts up on first turn. Been a few times with GC that it took 3-4 turns for engine to start. Same here - original spark plugs at 65,000 miles.

JAG - thanks for the post, very interesting read - wish I had your understanding of Borate esters and ZDDP and all that stuff

.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Interesting thread. I'll keep an eye on my first time/just installed Kendall syn-blend... (Trop Artic family). I'll refresh this thread if my dipstick concurs with OriginHacker's.