Help me build a bad oil filter

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I would make the whole thing including the gasket and can, out of sheets of Frams famous, and cheap, fiberboard end cap material, and special endcap potting glue that sticks to nothing, even itself, would be used to hold it all together. All can be burned after use with nothing but a small pile of ashes left, and a doctors appt for toxic inhalation.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
So we all know what makes a great oil filter.

What single characteristic of your least favorite oil filter would you offer up to build the worst Frankenfilter available?

To keep the FRAMpires (thanks jk_636) from [censored] ing themselves to post this first, I'll start it off with this one....

1) Use Purolator's tear prone media.



Your welcome (even though I don't like your number 1
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. )And speaking of the worst filter feature, it would definitely have to be the OCODs cardboard [censored] end caps!
 
It would be a canister type that accepted the cardboard tube of a toilet paper roll as the media. Kinda like a Frantz bypass, but without room for anything but the center tube of the roll.

"environmentally friendly recycled cellulose material"


Or all cars could just go back to the VW Beetle's mesh screen "filter", if you dare even call it that.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Fiber is better than metal for non synthetic filters with thin media.


That is regurgitated Fram marketing nonsense. Also almost every manufacturer other than Fram uses metal endcaps exclusively. I wonder why that is? Even Frams flagship filter uses metal endcaps.

So basically your saying that Wix, Champion labs, Purolator, K&N, Baldwin/Hastings etc all have it wrong. Yeah...that's probably it
crackmeup2.gif
 
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If done right, non-metal end caps - or no end caps at all - works just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Fiber is better than metal for non synthetic filters with thin media.


That is regurgitated Fram marketing nonsense. Also almost every manufacturer other than Fram uses metal endcaps exclusively. I wonder why that is? Even Frams flagship filter uses metal endcaps.

So basically your saying that Wix, Champion labs, Purolator, K&N, Baldwin/Hastings etc all have it wrong. Yeah...that's probably it
crackmeup2.gif




Purolator and K&N are not examples I would be using of quality filter construction. One has media tearing issues the other started using plain cellulose media and sells for synthetic price.
 
Originally Posted By: KevGuy
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Have the Chinese copy the OCOD.


What's it called? Even better if you can post a pic.

COCOD
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
If done right, non-metal end caps - or no end caps at all - works just fine.
I like the Denso design best of any filter, simple and smartly engineered, no end caps, simple parts throughout. Fiber end caps can be better than metal, as they don't waste metal and being more porous, the glue should stick better. But then the Fram U has metal end caps, I guess because of the wire mesh. The steel end cap with potting glue methid will eventually go away in favor of the no end caps design I would bet, because it is just more economical to make and works as well or better.
 
The ultra has the wire mesh and metal end caps because it uses synthetic media which cant stand on its own without the support.

The TG, M1 etc. are all synthetic blends and have no mesh. Unlike the Puro syn, ultra, RP, XP etc.
 
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Start with Bulleye/SuperXXX practice of using "used" filters, Purolator quality control, customer service, Blue mountain paint process, and K&N's Accountant/Price-fixing... top it off by running a oil-change special with straight Lucas as your motor oil.
 
No real inside construction at all...a screw-on thread, and then the can is just stuffed with cheap batting material, so the oil is pushed through it and then kind sucked out of it...lots of bits come loose into your oil...
 
Among oil filter designs, materials, construction methods and countries of manufacture, I'm not sure that we actually know what makes a good oil filter or a bad one.
A good filter is one in which the media remains intact over an OCI with the ADB remaining functional. Many different filters meet this criterion based upon the wide range of filters cut open with photos posted here.
Most of us have an intuitive preference for higher efficiency, but there are very efficient low cost filters out there.
One is tempted to dis ecores, but even these seem to hold up pretty well to typical OCIs, as do Chinese oil filters.
I suspect that good filters are the norm with bad ones the exception, although a certain major producer appears to have fallen into the excepton catagory.
 
Purolator thin can metal
Fram OCOD stinginess of media/pleats
Purolator tear prone media
Champ ecore plastic cage and felt end caps

Add it all up, and thats one bad filter!
 
I don't really think there are bad filters. I have used several Chinese Driveworks and Korean Prontos without issue. I'll be running a few old Havoline (Purolator made) filters when they run out. I also run some old Sears Trapper Plus filters that have given no issue either. These "old" filters are probably no older than a decade, and have been keep in a good environment. This whole good/bad filter thing is a bit absurd.
 
take an empty can of something, fruit, whatever. Cut a hole in the end slightly smaller than the mount thread, so the can screws on. Put some duct tape for a gasket. If it doesn't leak, I guarantee there will be those who say I use the fruit can filter with no issues, or use them with confidence.
 
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