Help is it a TRANS fluid problem or worse?

[JeffKeryk]

@Maddy when you get your CR-V back, perhaps list the items on your invoice that your mechanic addressed. My point is simply, find the problem, repair and retest.

This post is somewhat scattered and difficult to follow. Did you get a price to replace the AC compressor? This is not a cheap repair.

Good luck. BITOG is in your corner.

 

[HemiBenny]

Yeah, I'm not buying any of this.

It's all over the place!

Sorry, but this is a load of "nonsense."

I'd love to replace "nonsense" with what I really want to say, but a mod will DM me. I'm a nice guy, but I'm not afraid to use my words when allowed.

 

[Hall]

I don't have a manual clutch

The AC compressor has a clutch.

but the transmission, pully etc. would be at risk.

Huh ?

 

[TumblrDucks]

Yeah, I'm not buying any of this.

It's all over the place!

Sorry, but this is a load of "nonsense."

I'd love to replace "nonsense" with what I really want to say, but a mod will DM me. I'm a nice guy, but I'm not afraid to use my words when allowed.

Please. Yes it's all over the place but not everyone is a car guy lol.

 

[HemiBenny]

Please. Yes it's all over the place but not everyone is a car guy lol.

An engineer should be able to put things into perspective a little better.

It's all over the place!

How many times can a seized pulley stall an engine driving down the road at 30-40 MPH? What's this super grippy, indestructible belt made of? One pulley stops, they’re all stopping?!

Why is it always "NEW' members with these bizarre, unimaginable situations?

Please, post some proof, and I will eat my words!

 

[CleanSump]

Little FYI. On many models of cars the computer, whatever acronym the OEM may call it in their manuals, will turn on the AC compressor for a moment to circulate some oil/fluid in the compressor regardless of the temp settings. Even in dead of Winter. If he compressor is locked up and the engine isn't very powerful, that can lead to clunk and stumble. Or maybe in the OP's case, a stall. Clutch engages, compressor can't turn............

 

[HemiBenny]

Little FYI. On many models of cars the computer, whatever acronym the OEM may call it in their manuals, will turn on the AC compressor for a moment to circulate some oil/fluid in the compressor regardless of the temp settings. Even in dead of Winter. If he compressor is locked up and the engine isn't very powerful, that can lead to clunk and stumble. Or maybe in the OP's case, a stall. Clutch engages, compressor can't turn............

Yeah, I’m not accepting that in this thread.

The mechanic said it was smoking? Apparently from burning the belt? This hasn’t been noticed before?

30-40 mph and then the pulley seized and shut the car down? How many times? The A/C hasn’t worked for a few summers?

If this has been going on, I really would like to know who made that serpentine belt! It’s obviously a lot tougher than most I’ve ever seen.



I’m just not buying this.

Please OP, post some proof and I will eat my words. I’m not above doing that.

 

[crashz]

For the record, when I gave my CRV to my niece, she drove it with a seized PS pump. Yep. The belt will slip enough but it makes a heck of a racket and eventually will come off of the crankshaft pulley, wrapping up numerus items and ripping them to shreds. I was impressed by the carnage that a clueless kid can do. She said it made a funny noise, then she drove it around until the battery died.

So maybe a quick blip of the AC compressor clutch may just glaze the belt enough to stall but not tear itself apart?

Starting to get a clear picture in my head of the OP's car...

 

[Astro14]

The AC hasn’t worked in several years. So that compressor has been turning for several years, without circulating the oil that’s in the system.

It seized up.

Now, every time the clutch engages, the pulley will stop spinning, the belt smokes across the stationary pulley, and the extra drag causes the engine to die.

Ignoring the failed AC for a couple years is what led to this problem. New compressor, clean and flush the system, refill and press on.

 

[carl2591]

since you are not seeing spots on floor it not leaks it burning oil..

I would switch to the valvoline restore and protect oil for the next 4 changes. it help dissolve the carbon build ups around piston rings which can allow oil to get past them into the combustion chamber get burned and create a situation that can clog up the cat on gas cars. When the cat get clogged it like putting a potato in the tailpipe of sorts.. you gotta move air/ exhaust out of system to get air/ fuel into system to run..

Follow-up questions about my Honda CRV 2010, yesterday I asked questions, so:
1. I think my CRV 2010 has a K24 2.4 engine. How do I verify that?
2. Does the CRV 2010 engine consume lots of oil after 120K miles? I changed my oil at 120K miles. I have 123.6K miles now and the oil level dropped to less than1 quart! Mechanic added 3 quarts. I did not see any oil leak spots on my concrete garage floor. So, it was a mystery. I am checking my oil level weekly to be sure. Should I get an oil and filter change asap as a precaution? I do not want to wait until 5K miles!!
3. Would the oil loss CLOG the Cat Converter? I have a check engine light. Is it fouling or clogged? I got some RISLONE and will put it in after an oil change.
4. Replaced battery and alternator 3 weeks ago. Could that cause a transmission going into "learn" mode problem.
5. Again, my engine/transmission GROWLS and just stops during a quiet run unexpectedly. I will get a transmission fluid change and hopefully Transmission filter replacement. Any ideas WHY I have such a power loss. Timing belt?
6. I put in TECHRON Engine Complete, and it is running quietly, but the car just growls and stops while running at 1.5 - 2.0 K rpm. One person suggested getting a video. No, it is not happening in my driveway. It is happening while I drive!! Yikes. You cannot get a video when the ENGINE/transmission stalls out on the road. Yikes, again.
7, Has anyone had problems with the CRV 2010 Engine or Transmission? I do not see any threads where such discussions have gone on.
Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance. Maddy

 

[Maddy]

Thanks for your suggestions. I will try this out! Also, I am taking my mechanic's suggestion to change the oil more frequently, about every 3-4K miles so that I can try the Valvoline oil to get better protection. I want to keep my K24 engine running for another 10-15 years. It's purring right now. The transmission fluid was changed, no issues. And the AC compressor is working fine, no smoke with the belt, and the defrosting is working well--we have very cold rain and ice this morning, so it was great to see it working!