Help is it a TRANS fluid problem or worse?
- Thread starter Maddy
- Start date
The problem with the description so far in this thread is that it’s completely subjective. Your “growl” - might be my “rattle“, and it might be year another guy’s “luggin”.
So, from the description so far I’m not really sure what’s happening except “loses power“ sounds more like an engine problem than a transmission problem.
I don’t hold out much hope that a transmission fluid change is going to fix this. If it is an engine problem, the transmission fluid won’t help at all, and if it is a transmission problem, then fluid and filter probably aren’t going to fix a major mechanical malfunction that causes the car to stop moving.
The fact that you ran this several quarts low on oil, and that you’re having a mechanic doing the work means that we are in Plato‘s cave. We see only shadows on the wall cast by the real objects in the world and we think we see what we’re seeing, but much is lost in the translation.
So, from the description so far I’m not really sure what’s happening except “loses power“ sounds more like an engine problem than a transmission problem.
I don’t hold out much hope that a transmission fluid change is going to fix this. If it is an engine problem, the transmission fluid won’t help at all, and if it is a transmission problem, then fluid and filter probably aren’t going to fix a major mechanical malfunction that causes the car to stop moving.
The fact that you ran this several quarts low on oil, and that you’re having a mechanic doing the work means that we are in Plato‘s cave. We see only shadows on the wall cast by the real objects in the world and we think we see what we’re seeing, but much is lost in the translation.
Thanks for your insights! You are correct that my using "growl" is subjective.
I will investigate more engine issues with my mechanic, and have him also do the preventative transmission drain, flush, and fill too. The engine may have to be opened up to see the problem, but worth the cost to be sure!
So is it an issue with the transmission or the engine? I'm confused.
And why would they open up the engine as a first tactic?
I suggest your mechanic diagnoses the problem before spending another penny on anything else.
If he does not do so, find another mechanic because you may be throwing good money after bad.
Good luck and please post your findings.
I had this issue on a Ford Contour with the V6 and auto transmission. I had some of the best diagnostic shops look at it- and no one could figure out the issue. I finally ended up donating it because I couldn't sell it and feel good about it.
Usually a clogged CAT cause weak engine power but not stall out. Two things related to combustion: fuel and air. I think start from here instead of transmission will be better.
Since idle is fine and it's only stalled around 1.5-2k rpm I'm more suspecting to fuel delivery issue. But meanwhile, very low on oil is bad - try keep it full next time. Cheap oil is fine for your condition. If engine locks out for oil starvation, you won't be able to start it again.
Check your throttle body and fuel system. Do you have a clean throttle body and good fuel pressure? Ask a mechanic to troubleshoot for you is IMO the best choice for you instead of spending good money on transmission.
Since idle is fine and it's only stalled around 1.5-2k rpm I'm more suspecting to fuel delivery issue. But meanwhile, very low on oil is bad - try keep it full next time. Cheap oil is fine for your condition. If engine locks out for oil starvation, you won't be able to start it again.
Check your throttle body and fuel system. Do you have a clean throttle body and good fuel pressure? Ask a mechanic to troubleshoot for you is IMO the best choice for you instead of spending good money on transmission.
If your transmission fluid has never been touched, I suggest you DO NOT touch it. Not because old fluid is good but because your transmission may only work because of all friction materials in it. If it is still let you drive, reverse, accelerate/decelerate, it's not the issue causing engine stall. Although in such neglected state, your CRV is basically on borrowed time.My HONDA CRV 2010 has only 124K miles, but the transmission fluid has never been drained/flushed. I want to get new transmission fluid next week. Maybe Rislone can help the CAT. But getting a new Cat converter will cost more than my car may be worth. I have a new CARSHIELD policy, which may help, but I have a waiting period to use it. A new CAT and/or transmission is above my budget.
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And the battery and alternator - do you have charging issue or you just try eliminating a possibility?
At least please post the code. If you are in a hurry, find a shop and schedule an earliest appointment will be a good way to go.
Burning oil can kill the cat and fail your vehicle inspection, but that's not necessarily means cat is clogged - It may just been ineffective. Tons of people drive on dead cat, exhaust will smell bad but that's it.
Burning oil can kill the cat and fail your vehicle inspection, but that's not necessarily means cat is clogged - It may just been ineffective. Tons of people drive on dead cat, exhaust will smell bad but that's it.
I was running on the battery, and the alternator wasn't working. Correcting it by getting a new battery and alternator in early October....before the stalling/growling started. Then oil was being consumed, so we filled it. The CRV is in the shop today to figure out why it is stalling out. Thanks for your question.
My Honda CRV is in the shop today, and my mechanic said the same thing!! He would not flush the transmission but will add drain and fluid and check the pan to see how much metal filings are there! He agreed that it may not be the transmission, but he did tell me that the front axel is leaking, so he will replace the seal. Maybe that is how my transmission fluid dropped so low.
BTW, the CRV stalled 2 times yesterday after mass, and then this morning on my way to the mechanic's shop. He said he will drive the Honda around to see how /when it fails and just stops. He has decades of experience and comes highly recommended by my engineering colleagues here at Dept. of Energy. Close to work, I can walk after dropping the CRV off this morning. Let's see if he can figure out the issue!!
Worn friction material does not nor will it ever hold a transmission together.
A clogged catalytic converter is always clogged, it doesn't come and go. I realize it's at the shop now, but I'm curious what it would do sitting in PARK and you rev the engine up to 1500-2000. If it hiccups at all doing that, the transmission is ruled out.
It sounds like it's gotten worse just over the weekend too. At least that can help make it easier to diagnose or for the mechanic to see/experience the issue.
It sounds like it's gotten worse just over the weekend too. At least that can help make it easier to diagnose or for the mechanic to see/experience the issue.
Understood!!!! That is why I told my mechanic that I want the fluid drained and then filled with fresh transmission fluid. He will take pictures of what crap shows up in the pan and the magnetic bolt. I am sure there are filings!!! Tribology 101 course in Mechanical Engineering (taken over 40 years ago!!!)
I did the rev on the engine in park, drive, and reverse (with the brake on!!!!) to see what is happening. No hiccups. Rev-ed up smoothly!
Hold it at 2000 rpm and see. I think sometimes it has to be under an actual load too so just rev'ing it in neutral may not be enough.
There will be filings and this is 100% normal. No one can say what amount of filings is normal, too much (especially if it's the first drain in 120k miles), and so on. The magnet can only hold so much too, so subsequent drain/refills will continue to have filings on the magnetic drain plug. Again, normal.
MolaKule
Staff member
Oh, which university?
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