Help is it a TRANS fluid problem or worse?

[crashz]

I think the codes are an important part of this. Also I suspect something was not connected properly when the alternator was replaced. On my 06 I did the thermostat, housing, coolant pipe and alternator at different times. They built these cars around these parts.

Second, welcome Maddy! This group is made up of highly intelligent and analytical minds. Many are also engineers, including myself. I say this so that you are comfortable giving us the facts and as much detail as possible. It took some prodding to get a little bit of detail.

To put it in perspective, if this forum was Bob is the Nuclear Power Guy and I had asked: "Hi! I think my nuclear power plant is going into an uncontrolled melt down. Do you think my secondary coolant pump #3 has a bad winding?" I wonder how you would respond.

 

[Maddy]

Oh, which university?

Columbia Engineering, Nuclear and Mechanical, BS, MS nuclear MPhil (Mechanical) and PhD. But I am not a car mechanic by any means....

 

[Maddy]

I think the codes are an important part of this. Also I suspect something was not connected properly when the alternator was replaced. On my 06 I did the thermostat, housing, coolant pipe and alternator at different times. They built these cars around these parts.

Second, welcome Maddy! This group is made up of highly intelligent and analytical minds. Many are also engineers, including myself. I say this so that you are comfortable giving us the facts and as much detail as possible. It took some prodding to get a little bit of detail.

To put it in perspective, if this forum was Bob is the Nuclear Power Guy and I had asked: "Hi! I think my nuclear power plant is going into an uncontrolled melt down. Do you think my secondary coolant pump #3 has a bad winding?" I wonder how you would respond.

I would ask if he is having a loss of coolant accident (LOCA) ......

 

[Maddy]

Folks,
The verdict is in somewhat. MY mechanic drove the car around and it stalled out with the whine. HE opened the hood and there was SMOKE and determined that the AC compressor was burning up!!! Now I am not sure why the AC would cause a power failure, but the fix is going to take some time tomorrow, after getting the parts. He will put in some more transmission fluids just to be sure. I was hoping it was simple, like new spark plugs, low fluids, but since my AC hasn't been working for several summers, and if I even had the defrost on to get the windshield moisture off, it would fail eventually I guess. Any insights about HOW the AC compressor is tied to a loss of power and a growl let me know!!!!

 

[kschachn]

Awesome. Glad that’s over.

 

[tcp71]

If the compressor is seized and the clutch engages, the pully, along with your belt, will stop spinning, causing all kinds of noises. You don't have to have the AC turned on, it will come on when defrost is engaged as well.

 

[Hall]

Presumably you haven't had the AC "on" since you know it doesn't work. Interesting / lucky that he turned it on too. I'm envisioning something with the compressor clutch locking up and putting a drag on the belt (??).

 

[Wheel366]

My wife's old 2000 Civic value package would sometimes just turn off while driving. It happened a few times then would start right back up. We took it in and mechanic replaced plugs, wires, etc... and guess what, it was still happening. Wife was pregnant at the time so we traded it in and got our 14 CRV. Never did determine why it would just turn off. Mechanic was so excited putting in the quad platinum plugs. I looked at him and was like "why?". Car was slow as crap and PoS. Why did it need quad platinum plugs????

 

[crashz]

At idle the engine may not have enough power to overcome the slipping belt and seized air compressor. Hence the stall. I bet when that happened it felt as if the car was coming apart. Glad you found the issues.

Getting back to the regular maintenance:
- A few drain & fills for the transmission will be a good idea. These also have an inline filter on the cooler circuit that can be changed out.
- The K24 engine is pretty tough. But it is a known oil burner. Keep it full and check the oil frequently.
- The AWD CRVs have a small gearbox on the rear axle. It uses a specific hydraulic fluid. If yours has not been serviced, do it soon and use Honda fluid only. You mechanic can do it quickly and easily. Takes about a qrt.
- Probably not a bad time to change the air filter and cabin filters. Expect the cabin filter to be absolutely gross.
- You are probably due for spark plugs. You may also need a valve cover gasket at the same time.

 

[Hall]

We took it in and mechanic replaced plugs, wires, etc... and guess what, it was still happening.

...and they charged you too ! I know what they would say too.... "Well, they were due for replacement anyway".

 

[Wheel366]

...and they charged you too ! I know what they would say too.... "Well, they were due for replacement anyway".

Yes he did. In defense of the mechanic, plugs probably needed to be replaced but still didn't solve the issue... I don't want to talk bad about him since he has passed on. He was a nice guy.

 

[Maddy]

Awesome. Glad that’s over.

It's not over until the compressor gets replaced, the CRV stops stalling, the transmission fluid level is corrected.....needless to say, I am NOT traveling 300 miles this Thanksgiving with a car that is having problems.

The good thing is that the fixes should be reasonable and certainly less than getting a new or slightly used CRV!!!!

 

[Maddy]

If the compressor is seized and the clutch engages, the pully, along with your belt, will stop spinning, causing all kinds of noises. You don't have to have the AC turned on, it will come on when defrost is engaged as well.

Thanks for the information. I don't have a manual clutch but the transmission, pully etc. would be at risk. At least he saw the smoke, and we did not have a fire under the hood. YIKES!!!

 

[Maddy]

At idle the engine may not have enough power to overcome the slipping belt and seized air compressor. Hence the stall. I bet when that happened it felt as if the car was coming apart. Glad you found the issues.

Getting back to the regular maintenance:
- A few drain & fills for the transmission will be a good idea. These also have an inline filter on the cooler circuit that can be changed out.
- The K24 engine is pretty tough. But it is a known oil burner. Keep it full and check the oil frequently.
- The AWD CRVs have a small gearbox on the rear axle. It uses a specific hydraulic fluid. If yours has not been serviced, do it soon and use Honda fluid only. You mechanic can do it quickly and easily. Takes about a qrt.
- Probably not a bad time to change the air filter and cabin filters. Expect the cabin filter to be absolutely gross.
- You are probably due for spark plugs. You may also need a valve cover gasket at the same time.

I changed and checked both the inline and cabin filters. Easy to do!! On the engine, and spark plugs, I will need to change the oil every 3-4K miles or sooner, and new spark plugs will be next on the fix-it list.
My mechanic will replace the bolt at the exhaust manifold and add transmission fluid tomorrow too. He suggested getting the differential and other seals replace soon, especially after I get another paycheck and end of the year bonus.
UBER for tomorrow or Wednesday to pick up the car with the new compressor and needed fixes. No Thanksgiving travel until I know things are fixed....

 

[slo town]

Understood!!!! That is why I told my mechanic that I want the fluid drained and then filled with fresh transmission fluid. He will take pictures of what crap shows up in the pan and the magnetic bolt. I am sure there are filings!!! Tribology 101 course in Mechanical Engineering (taken over 40 years ago!!!)

There is no pan on your CRV's transmission. Don't forget to have the transmission filter replaced.

Scott

 

[slo town]

I did the rev on the engine in park, drive, and reverse (with the brake on!!!!) to see what is happening. No hiccups. Rev-ed up smoothly!

So the engine rev'd up smoothly while in drive and reverse with the brakes applied. None of your comments makes sense.

Scott

 

[kschachn]

So the engine rev'd up smoothly while in drive and reverse with the brakes applied. None of your comments makes sense.

Scott

I’m having trouble following all of this as well.

 

[Maddy]

I’m having trouble following all of this as well.

The idea was to see if the recent battery change resulted in the transmission needing to "reset" or relearn, as needed in some modern variable Transmissions. I just used the brake, and tested each one, park, neutral, reverse, drive, to see that the engine would function ok. This was to confirm that the engine was not the source of the growl, or the power loss. Part of the "try it" list to see if it was something beyond the engine. When the car's power just stalled, you think of the engine first. Then transmission. It did not occur to me that the AC compressor failure/seizing would be the most direct problem. But fortunately, the CRV did its stalling while my mechanic was driving it around. He found the smoking gun--the compressor.
We will see how the compressor replacement and related items work out soon.

 

[Maddy]

There is no pan on your CRV's transmission. Don't forget to have the transmission filter replaced.

Scott

There is a transmission fluid filter in CRV 2010. There is a pan and a magnetic bolt. I checked this out with other mechanics' manuals. See this nice short video:
https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...A73A3C0362FAF420AA77A73A3C0362FAF4&ajaxhist=0

 

[slo town]

There is a transmission fluid filter in CRV 2010. There is a pan and a magnetic bolt. I checked this out with other mechanics' manuals. See this nice short video:
https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=HONDA CRV transmission filter and pan&mid=20AA77A73A3C0362FAF420AA77A73A3C0362FAF4&ajaxhist=0

Don't confuse the bottom of the transmission with a pan. There is no removable pan on that transmission. Short of splitting the cases you'll never know if you have metallic debris sitting on the bottom. Also too, the magnetic "bolt" you mention is called a magnetic "drain plug". These distinctions make a difference in automotive conversations, and if not used properly, confuse things. And lastly, I did say there was a filter. It's behind the radiator attached to the fan cooling shroud in a PITA area and position to reach.

I am very familiar with this vehicle. The CRV and Element share the same drivetrain and chassis.

With respect to the transmission, these transmissions super easy to service. R&R transmission filter with new Honda OEM filter (they're inexpensive). Replace any connecting hoses that are seeping/leaking, but don't go looking for perfection on this vehicle. Drain the transmission, ideally after it's been warmed up. Drain and refill with approved fluid. We're talking just three quarts - and easy access for both drain and refill. A long funnel is required. Servicing this transmission is SIMPLE. Importantly, drain out the old stuff and refill with new. Because it's so easy to do a drain/refill cycle, do it 2 or 3 times. This is easy work and should be inexpensive. Anybody who can change their own oil can service this transmission.

Scott

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...honda-element-finally-needed-a-repair.383829/