Heavier Weight for Older Engines?

[ProjectCommuter]

I have heard that using a heavier weight oil on older engines is a good idea.
For example. My 2012 Ford Focus with 150+K miles is spec'd for 5-20 Synthetic. Should I go to 5-30?
I also have two other vehicles, a 2004 Tahoe with a 4.8 LS and a 2005 Nissan Frontier with the 4.0 VQ40. Both are spec'd for 5-30.
The Tahoe has 215K miles and the Frontier has about 180K miles. What weight should those go to?
I have used Mobil1 in all the vehicles for their entire lives thus far. Switching to "High Mileage" at the needed time.

What would the Intelligentsia of BITOG recommend?

Thanks in advance.

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Truthfully the switch will have more emotional or placebo effect than any measurable effect. If you want to go up a grade in everything go for it, it's likely unnecessary though. If you wanted to simplify by running 5w30 in everything that's fine too. Just so you know this has a high probability of devolving into a thick vs thin debate. Both sides have some merit. The truth is all 3 engines should continue to live long uneventful lives on their current lube regimen.

Also...

 

[FCD]

The only reason 5W-20 is specified is because of fuel economy regulations so 5W-30 would work just fine on it too.

 

[tcrs_circuit]

Not going to hurt it. You'll get people on the ford forums all day long argue about how a 5w30 will destroy your engine because of clearances etc... Try it out and see how the engine likes it! 5w30 should do pretty good though.

 

[Linctex]

You are in California - there's no reason to run 0W-20 or 5W-20 if you don't see many cold temps.

Even 10W-30 or 10W-40 often works fine.

My 1995 K3500 7.4L is spec'd for 5W-30, but it has had 15w-40 (same as all the tractors, etc.) pretty much it's whole life.

It has 296,000 miles on it now, runs great.

 

[demarpaint]

If you're using oil a heavier oil can often help. IMO I'd run your entire fleet on 5W30, consumption issues or not. You can start an oil stash if you haven't already done so, and only have one oil to buy.

 

[ka9mnx]

If you already switched to a HM oil you are good-to-go. If you switched to Mobil1 HM you have already moved to a heavier grade. I would use the Mobil1 HM 5w-30 in all the vehicles.

 

[BrocLuno]

To me, it's all about the rod bearing clearances. The rods started out at 0.0025" or so. By 200K they are at 0.005" for sure. Replacement clearances are usually at around 0.006"+. A 20 grade is having some issues filling that void at high temps. As long as the engines are running nominal temps and you don't go out to the desert much - OK ... But if towing or desert running, I'd step them up ASAP.

You wanna stay M1, fine - they make stouter grades or M1.

I'd prolly just switch them all to Delo 400 15W-40 and be done with it. But that's just me. Many on here would go to Rotella T6 (5W-40) and call that good.

I agree with the others about using one oil for the whole fleet

 

[tig1]

I still use M1 0-20 in my 2007 Ford Fusion with 234K with great results. Engine is very clean, quite with no chain noise, And the engine shows no sign of engine wear.

 

[Patman]

Originally Posted by tig1
I still use M1 0-20 in my 2007 Ford Fusion with 234K with great results. Engine is very clean, quite with no chain noise, And the engine shows no sign of engine wear.


But you don't live in a year round warmer climate and you don't do any towing. Someone doing both of those things might not have the same results as you.

I also have good luck still running a 5w20 in my higher mileage Civic, but I also don't drive it very hard and my engine runs a lot cooler than most (177F coolant temp on the highway, so oil temp probably rarely gets above 190)

Every situation is different, is what I'm trying to say.

 

[bullwinkle]

My rule has always been-how is the hot oil pressure? If it's low, then bump up a grade. Or if it has a consumption problem, go HM & bump up a grade. On an impeccably maintained engine, one might be able to stick with the original grade/weight throughout the vehicle's life-unfortunately I never seem to buy those used cars...

 

[Serge]

Yes it is a very good idea to switch to thicker oils as an engine ages. 20 grade are all for fuel economy. Some countries you cant even find a 20 grade oil yet they have the same engines as here in US. A thicker oil will protect better in hotter temps and will mask some of the problems older engines have like leaks and burning. Personally i bought a new 2007 mazda 3 with the ford duratec 2.0. Used 20 weights till about 120k. It became a leaker and burner fast. After 120k i used 30 grade till now at 195k. Actually thinking to go 40 grade next oil change to mask issues even more. Heck i will go to a 50 grade if i have to. Fuel economy means nothing for me even though i drive 30k miles on it a year now. To be honest if i stuck with a 30 or 40 grade from day 1 i think i would have less issues.

 

[StevieC]

Is a thicker oil needed? No. Will it have any benefit in your application? Technically it should because of other factors but there are lots of folks running their whole lives on 20wt just fine.
One of them is a member here driving a Ford Fusion that has over 200K miles on 20wt oil with 10,000 mile intervals.

In California there is no reason to run 20wt really and a 30wt will serve you just fine and may offer your better protection in extreme summer heat. (Keyword "MAY"), although I trust the engineering at Ford to have that vehicle survive just fine on 20wt.

to BITOG, a forum of a million opinions.

 

[Patman]

BTW I think it's kinda cool that the OP has been a member of here for over 3 years and this is his first post. I couldn't keep silent that long, but I'm a talker

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by ProjectCommuter
I have heard that using a heavier weight oil on older engines is a good idea.
For example. My 2012 Ford Focus with 150+K miles is spec'd for 5-20 Synthetic. Should I go to 5-30?
I also have two other vehicles, a 2004 Tahoe with a 4.8 LS and a 2005 Nissan Frontier with the 4.0 VQ40. Both are spec'd for 5-30.
The Tahoe has 215K miles and the Frontier has about 180K miles. What weight should those go to?
I have used Mobil1 in all the vehicles for their entire lives thus far. Switching to "High Mileage" at the needed time.

What would the Intelligentsia of BITOG recommend?

Thanks in advance.


Its important to distinguish between age and wear. A lightly used people/grocery hauling tahoe with 215K is likely to be tighter than one that towed a 5K boat for 115K miles.

If they are consuming oil now a grade thicker MAY slow that down that consumption.

If they arent consuming anything then you are simply adding drag to the assembly and costing your self a bit of mileage by moving to a thicker grade.

Hot oil pressure at idle is a good indicator of wear, if you knew what it was new- but most rigs don't have a real pressure gauge.
A leak down is the gold standard but will cost some money or time if you can do it on your own.
You can pull a few plugs and see how they look as well.




UD

 

[Oildudeny]

You could feed a 5 or 10w30 diet with no worries. A 5w30 may have slightly better shear strength

 

[Nickdfresh]

Using incrementally heavier oils as a car aged was "a thing" 20-30 years ago and it was considered conventional wisdom that thicker oil might increase compression in a worn engine. In fact I think it is what precipitated the rise of high mileage oils starting with MaxLife in the late 1990's, which were initially thicker in grade. But engine design has evolved and so have motor oils so I don't think it's necessary in most cases. If there is a concern, I'd start with a quality high mileage oil in the correct weight, then move up from there based only on observable evidence like oil consumption, smoke, or obvious horsepower loss. Using quality motor oils with good detergency at regular intervals is far more important than obsessing over weights. IMHO.

 

[CT8]

You can use a 5W30. Are you experiencing increased oil consumption or lower oil pressure? Run a 5W-30 and report back with the differences.

 

[ProjectCommuter]

Im a lurker, I read a lot to learn on a lot of forums. ;-)

 

[ProjectCommuter]

So I think I am going to move to 5-30 in the DI Focus. It does seem to use a little oil but not to bad. In the other vehicle I will keep them on the 5-30 high mileage and standardize the oil over all the fleets. Thanks for all the input and welcomes.