Heat to remove bolts

[supton]

I keep reading how a propane torch simply isn't enough heat to remove bolts--if so, what is a reasonable home setup to do that? I'm thinking of something that might get used twice a year. I suppose at that level, it's probably time to just pay a mechanic to do whatever job, but you know how it goes--sometimes you don't find it until you're deep into the job.

I have a nice long weekend ahead of me, and I'm tempted to drop the oil pan on my Camry and reseal it. I see mention that I might need to drop the front exhaust--I'm mortified that I'll break an exhaust bolt if I touch it, as I don't have the ability to extract bolts (never was any good at it). I think for this project I don't actually have to remove it -- it may be vastly easier to remove, but half the threads I find indicate it is needed -- so I plan to try not to. But if I get in there and find it necessary... then it's needed.

[I've sealed the valvecover and the oil pump on this 5S-FE motor, and last time I looked it appeared to be coming from the oil pan gasket. Ergo, it's the next thing to replace.]

 

[StevieC]

Acetylene torch is the best but I've done exhaust work with a propane torch. It takes longer to heat the area with propane and you can't cut with it like you can an Acetylene type setup but it's doable. (Heat and Beat

)

That said you can always go to an exhaust place and have them remove the hardware and replace with new non-rusty pieces, drive it home and then take it apart again to do your oil pan if you aren't comfortable. (Just a thought)

 

[emmett442]

My opinion is that a propane torch is next to useless for this kind of work.

The point of heat is to expand the hole (whether it be a nut on a stud or a threaded hole in a casting) but not the fastener. A propane torch isn't hot enough. It heats so slow that you end up heating the hole and the fastener at nearly the same rate.

Hot, fast heat is the ticket. Nothing less than acetylene. Not even Mapp.

 

[supton]

Acetylene, I just don't see myself getting that setup. I recall a couple years ago, someone was getting a tank at a place near work, I guess they laid it on its side, and it blew up the car. Little too dangerous for my blood--I'd accept it if I was using on a regular basis, but not for sporadic usage.

If I schedule to go to a shop to get bolts removed, I might as well schedule for them to do the oil pan--same amount of downtime and effort.

 

[exranger06]

Propane works extremely well...if you combine it with oxygen. I have a full oxy-acetylene setup, but I use propane instead of acetylene. Works just as well as acetylene for heating and cutting rusty bolts, and it's cheaper and easier to get. You just need to make sure your hoses are Grade T (most are Grade R, which will deteriorate with propane) and use a torch tip meant for propane.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by supton
Acetylene, I just don't see myself getting that setup. I recall a couple years ago, someone was getting a tank at a place near work, I guess they laid it on its side, and it blew up the car. Little too dangerous for my blood--I'd accept it if I was using on a regular basis, but not for sporadic usage.

If I schedule to go to a shop to get bolts removed, I might as well schedule for them to do the oil pan--same amount of downtime and effort.

You can get 1/4 tanks (or at least here you can) that can be stored up-right on the floor of your vehicle in the backseat.

 

[benjy]

todays mapp is not as hot as earlier mapp + still costly. i see very large tanks at auto recyclers aka junk yards prolly propane used for economy!!

 

[SZR48207]

Can't you now buy electric induction coils that do the same thing?

EDIT - Yup

https://boltbusterinc.com/

 

[emmett442]

Those don't work well a lot of automotive stuff. They're too bulky and it's rare you can get them in places where you need them.

They work well on the bench, but not on the car.

 

[JMJNet]

The camshaft seal and the crankshaft seal can leak also.
They are behind the timing belt cover.
You may see it as a drip from the oil pan gasket but it is a little bit above the oil pan.

 

[supton]

I think what I'll do is buy some Dorman replacement bolts, and see if I can crack loose what I have (I did have a flexpipe welded in not that long ago). If it all comes apart, great. If not, off to a garage.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted by JMJNet
The camshaft seal and the crankshaft seal can leak also.
They are behind the timing belt cover.
You may see it as a drip from the oil pan gasket but it is a little bit above the oil pan.

I crawled under a month ago and it seemed to be pan gasket. Three bolts had loosened up too, tightened those up and it helped a bit, but it's still leaking.

I might short-change the TB job just so as to do those seals, as I didn't bother at 140k when I did the job, 2 years ago. It's got at least 60k on the job, kinda early to do the job but if the oil pan gasket doesn't fix all the leaks then that would be next.

 

[Donald]

My Dad had a carbon arc torch he could connect to the Lincoln tombstone welder. Then touch each of the carbon rods to opposite sides of a nut and it would heat up the nut pretty darn fast.

 

[EdwardC]

You're probably prepared for this if you're asking about heat, but it wouldn't hurt to start spraying it with penetrating fluid periodically for as long as you can before you start the job. I've used MAPP-Pro on some tough header bolts once, but I don't know how much it helped vs penetrating fluid vs letting the penetrating fluid soak in a few days, etc.

 

[LazyDog]

If you can apply some PB blaster after driving the car for few days prior to doing the job, it will help a lot.

Than use the MAPP-Pro to get them up before breaking them loose.

 

[DriveHard]

Any time I do exhaust work I pretty much plan on breaking every single bolt/nut/etc. I touch, and just replace them with SS hardware. Exhaust hardware isn't picky, and you can find replacement stuff at your local hardware store for cheap. Break out the impact, and break some stuff!!!!

 

[Kestas]

An oxy-acetylene setup was one of my first expensive tool purchase. Living in the rust belt, I bought it out of necessity.

 

[deanm11]

I did exhaust drop off the exhaust manifold studs on two LS1 motors in the last year- first a buddy's C5 Vette and then my '02 Tahoe. I learned from breaking a stud on the Vette that impact actually for this application was less likely to break the fastener- I think it is because you can get the socket/tool lined up perfectly and let the impact do the work while cranking on a breaker bar can easily lead to leverage at a bad angle. +1 soaked at least the Tahoe with PB blaster over a few days AND one or two of the six nuts I did only get after a small MAP canister was utilized before using the impact.

 

[Trav]

Deleted, the tanks are not approved so not refillable.

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted by deanm11
I did exhaust drop off the exhaust manifold studs on two LS1 motors in the last year- first a buddy's C5 Vette and then my '02 Tahoe. I learned from breaking a stud on the Vette that impact actually for this application was less likely to break the fastener- I think it is because you can get the socket/tool lined up perfectly and let the impact do the work while cranking on a breaker bar can easily lead to leverage at a bad angle. +1 soaked at least the Tahoe with PB blaster over a few days AND one or two of the six nuts I did only get after a small MAP canister was utilized before using the impact.
Yes-the impact vibrates the fastener as it loosens it, so the fastener is less likely to hit it's yield/breaking point. Deep Creep works wonders too, it seems to seep into everything if given some time & heat/cool cycles.