What wattage for a magnet oil heater?

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I have an old 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L (with a carburetor) that thinks anything below 40F is below freezing and doesn't want to start without being cranked on a 100 times. I know the silicone stick on ones are suppose to be better then the magnetic ones, but I don't think I can get my oil pan clean enough for one to stick. Its be in there leaking for almost 40 years. I'm not sure if I should get the 200w or 300w. I'm in south east Tennessee and tomorrow morning we are suppose to drop to 12F.
 
I have an old 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L (with a carburetor) that thinks anything below 40F is below freezing and doesn't want to start without being cranked on a 100 times. I know the silicone stick on ones are suppose to be better then the magnetic ones, but I don't think I can get my oil pan clean enough for one to stick. Its be in there leaking for almost 40 years. I'm not sure if I should get the 200w or 300w. I'm in south east Tennessee and tomorrow morning we are suppose to drop to 12F.
Well, at 12F the more wattage one would be better. That being said, Is the carburetor clean & adjusted properly? Have you considered a battery heater & largest battery instead. Perhaps, popping the hood to squirt some starting fluid into the air intake tube is the only real answer for now?
 
The only "non-block" heater I've ever used was a dipstick heater.
You withdraw the dipstick when you stop for the day and insert the dipstick heater.
Mine was maybe not even 200W.

Lots of people used the magnetic ones (steel pans only, obviously).

Is there dimension enough for a band to go around a sump and hold one in place?
Use worm drive radiator hose clamps run end-to-end in a row.

edit: Post 2 made me think if a carburetor is equipped with a working bimetallic spring choke and a working accelerator pump.
 
Well, at 12F the more wattage one would be better. That being said, Is the carburetor clean & adjusted properly? Have you considered a battery heater & largest battery instead. Perhaps, popping the hood to squirt some starting fluid into the air intake tube is the only real answer for now?
Yes it was at the mechanic not to long ago, he was the one who pointed out I couldn't do a freeze (block) heater. My battery spot isn't big enough for a bigger battery so I keep it on a tender when the weather drops. I've never used starting fluid so I'm not sure how to do that. I do know that my truck is so cold its hard to even turn the key.
 
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The only "non-block" heater I've ever used was a dipstick heater.
You withdraw the dipstick when you stop for the day and insert the dipstick heater.
Mine was maybe not even 200W.

Lots of people used the magnetic ones (steel pans only, obviously).

Is there dimension enough for a band to go around a sump and hold one in place?
Use worm drive radiator hose clamps run end-to-end in a row.

edit: Post 2 made me think if a carburetor is equipped with a working bimetallic spring choke and a working accelerator pump.
I will admit I don't understand half of what you wrote... I can handle some basic stuff but I wouldn't say I know enough to even call myself a backyard mechanic. I just know my baby is to cold haha

I didn't know about the dipstick option or even if I could find one for my truck. I was told by the mechanic that there is an option for putting a heater in the coolant line but said the magnetic one would be a better bet.
 
Yes it was at the mechanic not to long ago, he was the one who pointed out I couldn't do a freeze (block) heater. My battery spot isn't big enough for a bigger battery so I keep it on a tender when the weather drops. I've never used starting fluid so I'm not sure how to do that. I do know that my truck is so cold its hard to even turn the key.
Good spray of about 3-5 seconds into where the air gets pulled into your engine. Look at the CCA's then & try to have the highest rating in your size. Good for you on the battery tender. Otherwise, you already know you have older equipment so it will have its quirks. How many miles on your Ranger?
 
I've used a Kats 50 watt magnetic heater. It didn't do much at all. The only part of the heater that comes into contact with the oil pan is the two thin strips of magnet, and there's a sizable air gap between the steel base and the oil pan. Pad heaters are a lot more efficient. If you don't have room for one big pad heater, you could install two smaller ones.

Block heaters are much better than oil pan heaters for engine starting, even at the same wattage. The temperature of the oil in the sump doesn't matter at all for engine starting. It's the temperature of the bearings and the cylinder walls that will affect cranking friction. A block heater will also heat the cylinders, pistons, fuel injectors, and intake air, which makes for better fuel vaporization and combustion.

Some heat from an oil pan heater will make its way to the top of the engine, but not much. If I recall correctly, the 50W magnetic heater only increased the coolant temperature by a few degrees, vs 40°C with a 400 W block heater.

If the poor starting is due to low cranking speed, a heated battery blanket could make a bigger difference than an oil pan heater. A warm battery will not only increase cranking speed, but it will also charge faster once the engine is running and will more easily maintain a full charge, which can be a problem in cold weather if you're doing short trips. A battery blanket will use a lot less power, ~80 W, and will probably be cheaper.

If the poor starting is mostly because the engine is in a poor state of tune, heating the block will be most effective, but a powerful enough oil pan heater might make enough of a difference. Of course, you could install both a battery blanket and an oil pan heater.
 
Good spray of about 3-5 seconds into where the air gets pulled into your engine. Look at the CCA's then & try to have the highest rating in your size. Good for you on the battery tender. Otherwise, you already know you have older equipment so it will have its quirks. How many miles on your Ranger?
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There are also pumping coolant heaters that go in the heater core hose. You might want to look into that, though they don't heat your oil but the entire block and head.
 
I used this for years actually two one on the drain pan and one on the transmission pan....used it on a 1989 Ford F250 with the C6 3speed...living in Montana it got plenty cold.

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If you keep your car outside and it is even a little windy the magnetic oil heaters do almost nothing. My 300w helps a little on the tractor that is kept in closed storage but nothing on the car that sits in the driveway. Look for a dipstick heater that will be in direct contact with the oil. But I would bet its the carb, those early ones were terrible. The auto choke never worked after a few years, get a manual choke kit or upgrade the carb.
 
I'd recommend solving the problem....not adding band-aids. Your Ranger should start fine at -20F, never mind +40F. Sounds like a carburetor issue.

Like @samven said, upgrade the carb. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a tune-up too if it has been a while.
 
I'd recommend solving the problem....not adding band-aids. Your Ranger should start fine at -20F, never mind +40F. Sounds like a carburetor issue.

Like @samven said, upgrade the carb. Probably wouldn't hurt to do a tune-up too if it has been a while.
I don’t know enough about the carb, it’s the one thing everyone told me not to touch growing up. The mechanic I go to says it’s fine, it just got new wires and spark plugs.
 
I have an old 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L (with a carburetor) that thinks anything below 40F is below freezing and doesn't want to start without being cranked on a 100 times. I know the silicone stick on ones are suppose to be better then the magnetic ones, but I don't think I can get my oil pan clean enough for one to stick. Its be in there leaking for almost 40 years. I'm not sure if I should get the 200w or 300w. I'm in south east Tennessee and tomorrow morning we are suppose to drop to 12F.
How about one that replaces the freeze plug in block. I had one like that in VW diesel Rabbit. The heater was blowing hot air before I was down the drive.
 
How about one that replaces the freeze plug in block. I had one like that in VW diesel Rabbit. The heater was blowing hot air before I was down the drive.
My mechanic showed me that my block doesn’t have enough room for one. Can’t remember the fancy term he used, but the freeze plug is behind something making it hard to get to.
 
A good old 100 watt incandescent bulb under the hood at night works and it's cheap. The only problem is finding one nowadays.
 
There are also pumping coolant heaters that go in the heater core hose. You might want to look into that, though they don't heat your oil but the entire block and head.
Yes - a tank heater in the heater hose is a quick install and they work very well. With that said, the Ranger may just need the choke adjusted or something simple like that.
 
I don’t know enough about the carb, it’s the one thing everyone told me not to touch growing up. The mechanic I go to says it’s fine, it just got new wires and spark plugs.
Many mechanics told me a lot of things that weren't right. Take the simple things like "torquing to spec" they don't do most of the time. Sounds like you might want to face your fears, buy a manual, & dive in. Cleaning everything up properly & in a parts cleaner.

Otherwise, starting fluid & 0w-30 in the oil sump.
 
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If you drive a 40 year old car you really should be your own mechanic. There is no need for a block heater. Verify the choke is working, butterfly closed and opens after warmed up. Verify gas is squirting in the intake when you pump the throttle a few times like you should be doing when the weather is cold.
 
I have an old 1988 Ford Ranger 2.0L (with a carburetor) that thinks anything below 40F is below freezing and doesn't want to start without being cranked on a 100 times. I know the silicone stick on ones are suppose to be better then the magnetic ones, but I don't think I can get my oil pan clean enough for one to stick. Its be in there leaking for almost 40 years. I'm not sure if I should get the 200w or 300w. I'm in south east Tennessee and tomorrow morning we are suppose to drop to 12F.
Faulty carburetor? Sounds like something is out of adjustment. I didn't realize any Ford Rangers were ever carbureted.
 
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