HDEO in PCMO. Any oil pump/circulation risks?

[wemay]

As the title inquires...

Is there a risk to the oil pump from using an HDEO in a PCMO vehicle? For examble, the viscosity of Delo XLE 400 synthetic blend is rather thick when compared to PCMO oils of the same SAE (10W30). Does this put a strain on the engine in any way?

Chevron Delo 400 XLE 10w30 synthetic blend
Viscosity, Kinematic :
cSt at 40°C: 81
cSt at 100°C: 11.9

 

[Red91]

I would say no. How does the thickness of the Delo 10w30 compare to say, the thickness of Defy 10w30? I still don't think it would hurt anything, as it's dual rated for gas and diesel engines, and your Hyundai specs 10w30 as an option.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Your oil vis >> 500 cP with a cool start. So, N on strain.
But I wouldn't run it since I don't like Delo HDEO. (Tried it a few time in the 09 EJ253 Subaru - meh.)

In the Santa Fe? Pony up for the Classic Amsoil Signature ATM 10w30.

 

[dparm]

The oil pump has to work harder, yes. Will it cause a problem? Not really.

 

[Gokhan]

A better question: Why would you run HDEO, which is intended for 18-wheelers, in a brand-new Hyundai?

 

[jrustles]

yuh might shear the crankshaft snout off or the oil filter might blow off the threads or the housing might balloon, cracked windshield general carnage overall

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
A better question: Why would you run HDEO, which is intended for 18-wheelers, in a brand-new Hyundai?


Would you use the same road, same atmospheric combustion air, tires made of the same rubber, drive on the same planet as that intended for big heavy 18 wheelers?

C'mon Ghok's I see you make some pretty good, well-stated cases for things, why resort to sensationalism this time?

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
A better question: Why would you run HDEO, which is intended for 18-wheelers, in a brand-new Hyundai?


It's SM rated as well so not just for rigs. The Subaru guys have run HDEO for years, sighting how well they hold up to shear and keep things clean. I wouldnt run a strictly diesel oil.

Shell Rotella T6 and T5
Mobil 5W40
Chevron Delo

Seem to be favorites.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
A better question: Why would you run HDEO, which is intended for 18-wheelers, in a brand-new Hyundai?

It's SM rated as well so not just for rigs. The Subaru guys have run HDEO for years, sighting how well they hold up to shear and keep things clean. I wouldnt run a strictly diesel oil.

Shell Rotella T6 and T5
Mobil 5W40
Chevron Delo

Seem to be favorites.

They are CJ-4/SM-rated but not optimized for gasoline engines. They won't keep your engine any cleaner than PCMO -- in fact they could make it dirtier. The soot dispersants in them could have negative effects in gasoline engines. Their higher ZDDP level and TBN are negated by the higher level of soot dispersants, which fight against both the ZDDP and TBN. Their viscosity is too thick for many gas engines. They may lack the sufficient amount of friction modifiers needed by gas engines.

If you want a maximally clean engine and maximum protection, use a synthetic PCMO with the recommended viscosity.

By the way, this topic has been extensively discussed on BITOG and you can search and read the many previous HDEO-in-gas-engine threads.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan

By the way, this topic has been extensively discussed on BITOG and you can search and read the many previous HDEO-in-gas-engine threads.


Thanks for your input Gokhan. As you may be aware, the search function here is not the best.... i tried. I may very will stick with PCMO oils but it's nice to have options and ask those that have more knowledge on the subject.

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
A better question: Why would you run HDEO, which is intended for 18-wheelers, in a brand-new Hyundai?

It's SM rated as well so not just for rigs. The Subaru guys have run HDEO for years, sighting how well they hold up to shear and keep things clean. I wouldnt run a strictly diesel oil.

Shell Rotella T6 and T5
Mobil 5W40
Chevron Delo

Seem to be favorites.

They are CJ-4/SM-rated but not optimized for gasoline engines. They won't keep your engine any cleaner than PCMO -- in fact they could make it dirtier. The soot dispersants in them could have negative effects in gasoline engines. Their higher ZDDP level and TBN are negated by the higher level of soot dispersants, which fight against both the ZDDP and TBN. Their viscosity is too thick for many gas engines. They may lack the sufficient amount of friction modifiers needed by gas engines.

If you want a maximally clean engine and maximum protection, use a synthetic PCMO with the recommended viscosity.

By the way, this topic has been extensively discussed on BITOG and you can search and read the many previous HDEO-in-gas-engine threads.


Our fleet of Ford Modulars would like a word with you...

His engine is allowed for 5w40 oil in the manual so I doubt it is to thick, and it has to meet SM spec per the manual which they do.

 

[UNC017]

Certain classes of gasoline engine work really well with HDEOs, better than PCMOs in fact. Jeep 4.0s, older flat-tappet v8s, and the like.

Your Hyundai doesn't fall in that category.

 

[geeman789]

The 30 grade Delo is slightly thicker than a conventional 30 grade, not way thicker. It is unlikely that you or your car would notice any difference.

Remember, everytime you start your car cold, your oil is wayyyyy! thicker ( even at 40* c, 104* f, a typical 30 grade is 6 to 9 TIMES thicker...) than at operating temps for 10 + minutes, and your car works just fine!

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Brent_G

Our fleet of Ford Modulars would like a word with you...

His engine is allowed for 5w40 oil in the manual so I doubt it is to thick, and it has to meet SM spec per the manual which they do.


One slight correction, although the Genesis Coupe 2.0T and Sonata 2.0T due show 5w40 as an option, the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T does not (never recieved a concrete answer for this). Everything else is spot on.

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Brent_G

Our fleet of Ford Modulars would like a word with you...

His engine is allowed for 5w40 oil in the manual so I doubt it is to thick, and it has to meet SM spec per the manual which they do.


One slight correction, although the Genesis Coupe 2.0T and Sonata 2.0T due show 5w40 as an option, the Santa Fe Sport 2.0T does not (never recieved a concrete answer for this). Everything else is spot on.


My bad on that - from skimming your last thread I thought your manual listed it as well.


IMO - I would run a quality 5w30 or 10w30 with no worry if you are concerned about your warranty. If not then try whatever you like until you find one that works for you.

No reason to think what is spec'd will not protect it.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Everything else is spot on.

Nothing is spot on. Your manual recommends GF-4 or higher, not SM. GF-4 and SM are different. SM-only oils don't have the starburst symbol. Also, your manual specifies fully synthetic oil with HTHSV < 3.5 cP (ACEA A5). HDEOs have HTHSV >= 3.5 cP.

The recommended oil type and viscosity for your engine is a fully synthetic ILSAC GF-5 (ILSAC GF-4 or ACEA A5 in countries where ILSAC GF-5 not available) 5w30 with the starburst symbol. End of story. No need to fool around with HDEO, which doesn't meet your manuals' specs and also isn't optimized for modern gas engines.

 

[901Memphis]

I would worry more about the high soot dispersants than the high HTHS.

 

[wemay]

Thank you gentlemen.

 

[wemay]

Think I might just stick to the Quaker State recommendation from the manual and run Advanced Durability ( Quaker State Conventional) every 3-4K miles. SN/GF-5/5w30.

 

[Gokhan]

Quaker State thing is probably a business deal between Hyundai and SOPUS and I wouldn't put much consideration into it.

Note that your owner's manual is implicitly recommending a fully synthetic oil. ACEA A5 is a fully synthetic category.

Also, for a turbo engine, a full synthetic is best, as the hot turbo oxidizes the base oil more quickly and TAN rises faster and deposits increase faster. You are also worried about a clean engine; so, that's another reason for a full synthetic.

Therefore, you should use a quality, brand-name fully synthetic GF-5 5w30. Use Quaker State Ultimate Durability, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, Mobil 1, Formula Shell Full Synthetic, or whatever you like.

Regarding OCI, with a full synthetic, there is no need to do OCIs shorter than 5 - 6k miles. You can probably even go up to 10k miles with a full synthetic, despite having a turbo. Do a used oil analysis with TAN if in doubt.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
The recommended oil type and viscosity for your engine is a fully synthetic ILSAC GF-5 (ILSAC GF-4 or ACEA A5 in countries where ILSAC GF-5 not available) 5w30 with the starburst symbol. End of story. No need to fool around with HDEO, which doesn't meet your manuals' specs and also isn't optimized for modern gas engines.


That's stretching interpretation to the point of being disingenuous.

The spec is clearly SM, with a note that SL is appropriate if SM isn't available.

GFs are an extension of the rating system for EC means, not a base spec in the first instance.

The GF part is the note about better economy with thinner oils, with the disclaimer re thicker which "are" (their words) required in hotter weather.

So 10w30 SM is an oil specified for use in this engine by the OEM.

Energy conserving is a recommended option.