Has anyone seen? (redline)
- Thread starter Pee Wee
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
Id likely use M1 in a toyotra engine. SAeems to work well with the metals used by toyotas, and creates very low wear.
JMH
JMH
Redline works better in Toyota's then any other engines. I would use either Redline 5W30 or Redline 5W40 year round. I have tested Redline 5W40 down to -18°F in my 03 Camry. THe Redline 5W30 is likely your best bet though because it does not contain any viscosity improvers at all. The 5W40 has some viscosity improvers in it so it will not do as well in extreme heat of cold as their 5W30!
Oh I wanted to add that if you decide to use Amsoil use their Series 3000 HD 5W30!!
Oh I wanted to add that if you decide to use Amsoil use their Series 3000 HD 5W30!!
I just said I was using Red Line and got good results. The other factors might be as or more important, reasonable driving, good climate, maintenance schedule and so on. The part I mentioned about the valve adjustments is something the oil might have helped, they just don't get adjusted very often because they are not changing. And the compression is almostly exactly the same as new, within the accuracy of the gauge it could be said they are the same. Maybe you'd be happier if I put it this way, I think synthetic oil is worth the trouble if you keep a car or drive in difficult conditions and yes, conventional oil might product long engine life too. Maybe the rebuild with synthetic might go easyer because of lower wear with the time comes. I use Red Line because I am involved in a racing program where we use that oil. Some people tend to stick with familiar things and I'm one of theose people.
I tried M1 0w-40 because of this very web site, in my 96 850 Volvo Turbo and had a problem. People on this site said the 0w-40 would be better because it sould produce less startup wear and would also protect the engine at high operation temperatures. I make frequent trips between San Diego and Phoenix. This car has a switch that blocks use of the A/C if the oil pressure drops too much or the oil temp goes too high. On two trips the A/C got blocked using M1 0w-40. These trips, in the summer are 100+ temp with speeds of 85+ and some mountains. I switched back to the Red Line 10w-40 and no more problems. Not science but at least I had the A/C. I'm sure that other oils or a 'heavier' grade of M1 would have worked but I don't have the resources to 'look around' when I have a known solution in a bottle in my garage. I just made that trip this past week with high temps and all. And the level on the dipstick did not change and I had my A/C so I think I'm happy with the engine oil.
I tried M1 0w-40 because of this very web site, in my 96 850 Volvo Turbo and had a problem. People on this site said the 0w-40 would be better because it sould produce less startup wear and would also protect the engine at high operation temperatures. I make frequent trips between San Diego and Phoenix. This car has a switch that blocks use of the A/C if the oil pressure drops too much or the oil temp goes too high. On two trips the A/C got blocked using M1 0w-40. These trips, in the summer are 100+ temp with speeds of 85+ and some mountains. I switched back to the Red Line 10w-40 and no more problems. Not science but at least I had the A/C. I'm sure that other oils or a 'heavier' grade of M1 would have worked but I don't have the resources to 'look around' when I have a known solution in a bottle in my garage. I just made that trip this past week with high temps and all. And the level on the dipstick did not change and I had my A/C so I think I'm happy with the engine oil.
I'm using Red Line 5w-30 in my 03 V8 4Runner. I plan a UOA at the next oil change but that may be a while. I've used Red Line for a long time in other vehicles and have had good results. I posted a 370k+ miles Civic that has never had the head off or major work and a 96 Volvo 850 turbo at 135k miles. A couple of people trash mouthed the results. In a search I found that those members don't like Red Line but that's ok with me. I like the fact that Red Line makes a good product without any confusing marketing. When you remove the valve cover on the Civic to adjust the valves, it looks like it was assembled a week ago. In 21 years of checking valve clearance it's been a common occurance to not have to adjust any of the valves. One other thing that may point to reduced friction and a good running engine is the starter. It has never failed and has never been removed or repaired, not science, just an observation. Oh, by the way I live in Southern California. The Civic has never seen snow or ice.
Not arguing that you have had good results in your Civic, but your results are hardly conclusive that Redline is the reason your civic has run so long. I have a friend that uses a 1987 Honda Accord for process service work and the car has 550,000 miles on it with the original motor.
He bought it with 150k, and basically just changes the oil with whatever is on sale every 3000-5000 miles. He says he got a bit lazy after 400k because that was his original goal and has been only changing every 10k or so (with mineral oil).
While redline is a good product, the majority of the UOA's have not been that great. Every time there is an excuse made, but the bottom line is no other oil (Mobil 1, German Castrol, Amsoil) needs to have these excuses made. For race and driving school applications, Redline is probably the best oil you can run, but for street use, there seem to be better.
Now before you say I am some redline hater, for the last 15 years, I have been using their gear and tranny oil, and also use their watter wetter and FI cleaner.
Cary
He bought it with 150k, and basically just changes the oil with whatever is on sale every 3000-5000 miles. He says he got a bit lazy after 400k because that was his original goal and has been only changing every 10k or so (with mineral oil).
While redline is a good product, the majority of the UOA's have not been that great. Every time there is an excuse made, but the bottom line is no other oil (Mobil 1, German Castrol, Amsoil) needs to have these excuses made. For race and driving school applications, Redline is probably the best oil you can run, but for street use, there seem to be better.
Now before you say I am some redline hater, for the last 15 years, I have been using their gear and tranny oil, and also use their watter wetter and FI cleaner.
Cary
- Status
Similar threads
