Had to replace oil drain plug; questions

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First of all, allow me to take you back to when I last changed the oil on the 92 Civic. This was at the end of May and I'm a little late posting my experience.

After draining the old oil out and replacing the aluminum crush washer on the drain bolt, it was time to re-install the drain plug.

I hadn't previously seen the need to inspect the threads on the drain plug as it hadn't crossed my mind. I didn't cross-thread it, nor did the head strip, but upon using a ratchet to attempt to seat/snug the drain plug(it did/does have a 'rough' spot upon initial hand threading), it wouldn't seat against the pan/crush washer engage with the pan. It would start to get tighter and then 'slip' and not tighten.

Hoping that I hadn't damaged the threads in the oil pan, I removed the drain plug for inspection and found 2 evident locations of thread 'degradation'; almost peeling or flaking as though the threads were getting brittle over a long period of time?, this being on the drain plug itself.

It seems as though the plug was disintegrating. So, I bought a replacement, like the one seen here:

18030797_bar_0160088_pri_detl.jpg


It worked upon the first attempt, seats perfectly fine. I also figure if the threads on that one start 'peeling' away like the other did, that it means the threads in the oil pan have an imperfection? As you can see below from the old one, the damage was to the center of the threads on the bolt/plug. Not sure what that means, yet another reason I hope to get extended OCIs, though of course I hope not. Thoughts or advice?

Old plug up close:

drainplug.png
 
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See if you can find a tap with the same sized threads and clean the oil pan threads out. Just be careful not to tap down too deep so stuff will get in the pan.
 
If the new plug screws in all the way by hand without noticeable resistance then I would forget the tap method. I would use a small amount of neversieze on the bolt and forget it. Don't over torque the plug. I think Honda uses a soft Aluminum plug so it acts as the item to fail first and not the oil pan threads. Ed
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
If the new plug screws in all the way by hand without noticeable resistance then I would forget the tap method. I would use a small amount of neversieze on the bolt and forget it. Don't over torque the plug. I think Honda uses a soft Aluminum plug so it acts as the item to fail first and not the oil pan threads. Ed

That's a good idea. I don't know why Toyota didn't think of that. I'd much rather replace a plug than a pan.

If all else fails you can clean out the threads after the pan has dripped clean and then red loctite a fumoto in there and let it sit for a day or two.

On the Sienna the drain pan stripped. We just let drip, brake clean the plug, apply loctite and let sit then put back into service.
 
Originally Posted By: hate2work

Use a tap to clean the threads, then install a Fumoto or Quik Drain so the threads are no longer an issue.


Dorman EZ Drain on Amazon for <$10 FTW.
 
^I haven't seen those rated well, quite honestly.
21.gif
So, if I got the drain bolt replacement for quick drain bolt route, then I'll probably buy the Fumoto valve.
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^I haven't seen those rated well, quite honestly.
21.gif
So, if I got the drain bolt replacement for quick drain bolt route, then I'll probably buy the Fumoto valve.

If the vehicle in question is the Honda in your sig, then the oil-pan drain-bolt threads are stripped. This was VERY common on that generation of Honda if tightening torque was not absolutely correct.

I would not recommend the Fumoto on this vehicle, as the drain bolt is quite low and close to the ground. Honda sells a Time-Sert kit for repairing the threads with the pan on the car. You can buy and install it yourself, or have any garage install it for you. Alternatively, use one of those oversize thread-cutting drain bolts that is readily available in the aftermarket.
 
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