Hello all, this is my first post on this informative forum. I have a high mileage Saturn SL1 (103,000 miles) that I am considering using Gunk Motor Flush with on my next oil change. I was going to use two applications (use one bottle, drain, change filter and refill and do again before adding final oil and filter). I was wondering what you experts thought of this product? Would I be better off using ATF instead of the gunk to clean the motor out? Should I remove the oil pan? Is Gunk harmful? Thanks in advance.
Gunk Motor Flush
- Thread starter oilboy28
- Start date
- Status
Welcome to the Forum.
The only experts on this product is the makers of it. It has directions for proper use where ATF has zero directions for use in a cranckase.
If I had your car I would try KW motor flush, Gunk you describe or better yet Berrymans B-12" a method of soaking the cylinders" and used in the crankcase which has shown early positive results in lowering oil consumption in a Saturn motor when all the EXPENSIVE products has failed.
Maybe the owner of this car will jump in and describe his procedures and results
The only experts on this product is the makers of it. It has directions for proper use where ATF has zero directions for use in a cranckase.
If I had your car I would try KW motor flush, Gunk you describe or better yet Berrymans B-12" a method of soaking the cylinders" and used in the crankcase which has shown early positive results in lowering oil consumption in a Saturn motor when all the EXPENSIVE products has failed.
Maybe the owner of this car will jump in and describe his procedures and results
Gunk may work, but I'm not sure how it will impact your seals. I've heard some concerns over using these harsh flushes because of the seals and possible plugging of the pump screen.
The ultimate flush appears to be the Auto-rx method based upon results posted to this forum. You have to add it and run it for 500 miles I think then change the oil again. Since you were planning on doing it twice anyway, this is probably the safer and better way to flush the engine. It cleans it slowly, but safely. With Gunk, it might break loose some crud and plug up your screen on the pump.
Or you could choose to do neither and just switch to a high grade synthetic such as Mobil 1, Redline, or Amsoil to name a few. These tend to have cleaning properties based upon what I've heard.
Oh and I've done the ATF "Flush" and I'm not sure how well that really works. I drained the old oil and used cheap dino oil with ATF and run it for about 10 minutes and drained. Finally I added Mobil 1 with a good filter. The oil is staying pretty clean on my 100,000 mile toyota engine, so maybe it worked. If I were to do it again, I would probably go the Auto-rx route even though it costs a bit more.
[ December 16, 2002, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: Giles ]
The ultimate flush appears to be the Auto-rx method based upon results posted to this forum. You have to add it and run it for 500 miles I think then change the oil again. Since you were planning on doing it twice anyway, this is probably the safer and better way to flush the engine. It cleans it slowly, but safely. With Gunk, it might break loose some crud and plug up your screen on the pump.
Or you could choose to do neither and just switch to a high grade synthetic such as Mobil 1, Redline, or Amsoil to name a few. These tend to have cleaning properties based upon what I've heard.
Oh and I've done the ATF "Flush" and I'm not sure how well that really works. I drained the old oil and used cheap dino oil with ATF and run it for about 10 minutes and drained. Finally I added Mobil 1 with a good filter. The oil is staying pretty clean on my 100,000 mile toyota engine, so maybe it worked. If I were to do it again, I would probably go the Auto-rx route even though it costs a bit more.
[ December 16, 2002, 03:32 PM: Message edited by: Giles ]
Don't use anyones "FLUSH" the potential additional damage is just not worth it, what kind of chemistry do you think your getting for the price of a product mentioned by you ? seals blow out under the extreme "Shock" chemistry this type of product is made of.Please post the guarantee you get with this "Flush" always go to the manufactures web site and look up the Material Safety Data Sheet and read what the manufacture says about his product ,not a salesperson.
Sounds like the flush thing is out
. What about the ATF thing, like running it in there for 10 mins or so. What would be a good mixture amount? 50/50 oil/ATF? I would try the RX thing, but it sounds like you have to order it, and I am doing the change here in a couple days. Anyway, anyone else with ATF flush exp.?
Why do you think ATF is going to clean your engine?
Also, why are you cleaning your saturn engine? Is it burning oil?
I would recommend Auto-Rx or Schaeffer Neutra. They both use "cleaning" esters. The esters in synth motor oils are not as good at cleaning built up dirt. They are designed to be more stable.
I've used Auto-Rx with very good results
[ December 17, 2002, 04:36 AM: Message edited by: jjbula ]
Also, why are you cleaning your saturn engine? Is it burning oil?
I would recommend Auto-Rx or Schaeffer Neutra. They both use "cleaning" esters. The esters in synth motor oils are not as good at cleaning built up dirt. They are designed to be more stable.
I've used Auto-Rx with very good results
[ December 17, 2002, 04:36 AM: Message edited by: jjbula ]
I add Rislone "anytime" formula with about 700 miles to go before an oil drain. I had an 3.0 V6 Ford with over 300,000 miles and currently have a 4.0 V6 with over 170,000 miles and they ran/run like champs (both in Aerostars), as well as 2.0 Zetec and 4.6 Fords.
Many do not know about this product, but on Rislone site http://www.rislone.com/engine.htm 700 miles seems to be an effective amount of miles for cleaning, without overdoing the miles an additive/cleaner is in your oil.
I have used Mobil 1, Torco and Synergyn oils so that maybe the overiding factor, but the engines are CLEAN, use no oil between changes, and run strong and smooth!
For under $3.00 per bottle, I am not changing a thing! A bargin that does the job IMO.
[ January 06, 2003, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: tenderloin ]
Many do not know about this product, but on Rislone site http://www.rislone.com/engine.htm 700 miles seems to be an effective amount of miles for cleaning, without overdoing the miles an additive/cleaner is in your oil.
I have used Mobil 1, Torco and Synergyn oils so that maybe the overiding factor, but the engines are CLEAN, use no oil between changes, and run strong and smooth!
For under $3.00 per bottle, I am not changing a thing! A bargin that does the job IMO.
[ January 06, 2003, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: tenderloin ]
MolaKule
Staff member
Good suggestions all.
A flush is to be used as a temporary cleaner, to be used right before an oil change. An engine cleaner such as Auto-RX or Neutra, has a more long-term cleaning effect. Never add more flush or cleaner than suggested.
ATF is out since its approx. a 0W20 weight (if its Dexron III or equivalent), and it will thin your oil considerably.
A flush is to be used as a temporary cleaner, to be used right before an oil change. An engine cleaner such as Auto-RX or Neutra, has a more long-term cleaning effect. Never add more flush or cleaner than suggested.
ATF is out since its approx. a 0W20 weight (if its Dexron III or equivalent), and it will thin your oil considerably.
I used KW motor flush on my 318 and it worked very well. My sludge problems were bad enough to cause severe losses in oil pressure including down to 5 psi twice on long drives or after a couple WOT runs. I flushed mine twice (as recommended with dirty or high mileage motors) and it completely fixed my problem. As far as I can tell I didn't get any side effects and my oil pressure is around 55-60 cruising when warm and 30@warm idle. It also says its not harmful to metal parts as well so I doubt KW is all that bad when used correctly.
Jason
Jason
I am working on an oil burning problem on my wife's Saturn SL2. I recently used a Gunk flush along with other measures and observed almost a doubling in oil consumption over 2000 miles. See the thread Saturn rings stuck for details. I am currently using AutoRx and the consumption has returned to its previous level, possibly better, after running 8oz for 1000 miles. I am nearly ready to change the filter and post an update to the thread.
And who is making these bad comments ? Sellers or others involved with other products ?
Look at mebanditws6's positive experience with a two dollar flush and tenderloin's experience with another product.
Don't beleive all you read on the internet is my suggestion and opinion. These inexpensive over the counter flushes can work very well. I have used them successfully and I was not exactly born last night
The MSDS on the Amsoil flush looks pretty potent yet ask a Amsoil site supporter how many motors they have used it in or heard of it being used in and the positive results they have encountered .
Amsoil guys speak out !
[ January 04, 2003, 09:20 AM: Message edited by: Pops ]
Patman
Staff member
The problem with the inexpensive flushes is that they use strong solvents, and this causes a few problems. One, if you have a very sludged up engine and this stuff dislodges a large chunk all at once, it can clog up smaller oil passages. Also, when you change your oil right after using this solvent stuff, some of the solvent stays behind, and your following oil change is tainted with this stuff, which can attack the metal over time also.
The only real safe way to use the cheaper flushes is in an engine that isn't as sludged up, and to do two oil changes in a row right after using it.
So you're better off using Auto-rx or Neutra, both of which have been proven safe on here by many users.
The only real safe way to use the cheaper flushes is in an engine that isn't as sludged up, and to do two oil changes in a row right after using it.
So you're better off using Auto-rx or Neutra, both of which have been proven safe on here by many users.
MolaKule
Staff member
What evidence have we to say that flushes WILL or will NOT loosen a chunk of carbon or hard sludge?
What evidence have we to say that Neutra, Auto-RX, or LC WILL or will NOT loosen a chunk of carbon or hard sludge? What control do we have over a future statistical event if it wants to happen?
I have yet to hear of any of these products causing oil starvation or engine failure. As for the flushes, they are temporary and are drained with the dirty oil. Sure, little bit of flush residue will remain, but so will Auto-RX.
What evidence have we to say that Neutra, Auto-RX, or LC WILL or will NOT loosen a chunk of carbon or hard sludge? What control do we have over a future statistical event if it wants to happen?
I have yet to hear of any of these products causing oil starvation or engine failure. As for the flushes, they are temporary and are drained with the dirty oil. Sure, little bit of flush residue will remain, but so will Auto-RX.
Patman
Staff member
True, but Auto-rx also recommends small maintenance doses, so even if some of it is still left behind, it's safe.
I feel totally comfortable with Auto-rx and Neutra since it's been tested by many people on here. It's hard to feel safe with those other products when they say NOT to drive the car with that stuff in the engine.
MolaKule
Staff member
I would also be comfortable with LC at the doses that were tested.
BTW, LC is not a home brew, it is a fully formulated cleaner that has been tested in modern engines.
BTW, LC is not a home brew, it is a fully formulated cleaner that has been tested in modern engines.
From what I understand LC is a solvent base product - so what's in it that would prevent "chunkosis and cloggosis"?
I have Amsoil flushed a number of engines and had zero problems. I will add one flush with Amsoil flush will not get rid of "varnish".
The nastiest engine we flushed with Amsoil flush was a Toyota sludger V6. Yodelleeoh-hoh!! Liquid diarhea....we just drained whatever oil came out. Put a Fram filter on, and filled with cheap oil and the Amsoil flush. Idled 15 minutes. Drained again. WAHOO!! No "chunkosis and cloggosis" - but it spurted out sorta gloppily....not like normal drainage oil. Engine still great 30K miles later.
I have Amsoil flushed a number of engines and had zero problems. I will add one flush with Amsoil flush will not get rid of "varnish".
The nastiest engine we flushed with Amsoil flush was a Toyota sludger V6. Yodelleeoh-hoh!! Liquid diarhea....we just drained whatever oil came out. Put a Fram filter on, and filled with cheap oil and the Amsoil flush. Idled 15 minutes. Drained again. WAHOO!! No "chunkosis and cloggosis" - but it spurted out sorta gloppily....not like normal drainage oil. Engine still great 30K miles later.
DO NOT USE ANY OIL FLUSHES!!! The potential damage to the engine is not worth it. I always take an extra quart of oil and pour it through the engine after it has drained out. This helps flush out any lingering residue; the balance will be caught by the new filter.
Start using Mr. Moly. They are on the Web-site. I have 500 hp Viper and a 400 hp Lingenfelter Corvette I use Mr. Moly in, as well as my 360 ci Durango. Wait until after 4,000 miles to start using it.
Mr. Moly will cool your engine down, with stand 4,000 degrees or so, and fill in friction wears. John Lingenfelter uses the same stuff and applies it by hand in his $$9,000.00 to $50,000.00 engines.
You car engine will last and last and keep its power.
PS Use full synthetic Castrol 5-50 along with the Mr. Moly.
Never use the teflon stuff--its heat tolerance is only about 400 degrees and then it will begin to ball up like chewing gum--especially in a race. When the engine cools down it returns to its original formulation.
Start using Mr. Moly. They are on the Web-site. I have 500 hp Viper and a 400 hp Lingenfelter Corvette I use Mr. Moly in, as well as my 360 ci Durango. Wait until after 4,000 miles to start using it.
Mr. Moly will cool your engine down, with stand 4,000 degrees or so, and fill in friction wears. John Lingenfelter uses the same stuff and applies it by hand in his $$9,000.00 to $50,000.00 engines.
You car engine will last and last and keep its power.
PS Use full synthetic Castrol 5-50 along with the Mr. Moly.
Never use the teflon stuff--its heat tolerance is only about 400 degrees and then it will begin to ball up like chewing gum--especially in a race. When the engine cools down it returns to its original formulation.
- Status
Similar threads
