Gun Cleaner Lube Update #16.......

[Pablo]

Didn't want to pig in on one of the other threads. Here are the latest thoughts from the Pabloinator:

M-Pro 7 is expensive and pretty slow - most stubborn deposits, even on flat surfaces will need vigorous brushing, but it does work and while not solvent bearing I would still use with caution. As noted it will strip all lubricant, so it needs to be removed. Yes you can use something like WD-40 as an initial flush followed up with a real lubricant. I always flush with a good lube like Amsoil MP after use.

The new Hoppe's #9 just doesn't work. Even with brushing it leaves black deposits in all my guns. I'm faced with some nasty clean up in aisle 1911 thanks to Hoppe's.

PBlaster with a bronze brush works really good for lead removal. No one talks about this, but this is the best lead (Pb) cleaner I have ever used. Just get a can at most auto parts stores or such. As seen on TV. People have to understand - Pb is not a very soluble metal - at least in anything you would want in your gun barrel. The way to get the lead out is to use a penetrant that gets under it and allows to to flake off. I think Kroil will do the same or better, will try soon. Yes it really stinks, DO NOT USE INDOORS, but it's not toxic.

I like Kroil for some pinned moving parts. Gets in and cleans out anything. Just try some in any "sticky" mechanism. This stuff is amazing. Stinks as well.

I use Ballistol on the finish of my Sig Nitron 1911, also use it in slides for some lighter guns. I don't like it for cleaning that much. Stinks and makes me chokey. Use in the wind, but after applying the stink leaves. May get gummy if over used. Hickok45 likes the stuff.

I use a good synthetic EP/AW grease on my 1911 slides. I use Amsoil spray grease mainly. It's red and stains, so go easy. This stuff is the perfect viscosity for slides, most grease is WAY too thick, especially when cold. But With the EP (extreme pressure) and AW (anti-wear) additives, you won't see galling or wear.

I use Amsoil Silicone spray very occasionally when the rare call is for silicone lube.

I use the good Rem Oil WITH VCI (not regular Rem oil) to fog parts and areas of my safe about once a month or so. I store my magazines inside Crown Royal bags and hang them in my safe. I mist the outside of the bags with preservative Rem oil (again the good kind with VCI not regular lousy Rem Oil)

For the record, none of the above are considered "toxic" but always best to clean guns outside or in a very well ventilated area.

 

[Steve S]

Have you tried Amsoil MP to spray the metal when you put them away? I also find penetrating oil the best for lead removal. I am smittem by Slip 2000 ewl lube it is the most fun lube I have used so far. I usually use motor oil and it works fine.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: Steve S
Have you tried Amsoil MP to spray the metal when you put them away?


Yes. Seems to leave a nice thin, but useful coating. Don't tell anyone but I have fired guns with MP in the barrel. Didn't seem to make a difference.

 

[rclint]

Most people do not understand lead is like you say one of those metals that does not dissolve. I have used lead as the cathode, and sitting in sulfuric acid/solution for long periods of time ( a year or more) and the lead cathode may need a simple brushing off from time to time (every couple of months after much use).

I don't want to steal you thread only point out what you were stating as well about the lead.. for lead removal I myself have not even had much luck with penetrating oils etc, electrochemical is about the only thing I have had luck with... and if you shooting anything you can look at the ballistics to see if lead will be a problem ( I have forgot the FPS for lead) but subtract some off for home brew, as well the condition, or I should say the grade of the barrel/bore will also play a big role in lead.. It cost very little to go with copper plated bullets if lead is a problem, and you want to keep cost down, also many manufactures make lead and have come up with ways in which you can push the limits of velocity...

I have tried some of the above on cleaning guns etc, still I prefer Eezox, I have also used Corrosion X and have reviewed some test with the manufacture/one of the employes and it as well is a superb rust protection, I still have some test containers in which I use for cleaning/lube

I always concentrate on rust protection it seems when talking about this subject as I have found just about any lube will work when it comes to firearms, sure some points of contact can cause problems, the slide/rail/bolt on AR-15 I use grease on, and just a dab, as well on some of my pistols.. Also it will surprise you that copper anti-seize will do better than most anything here, and stays put much better.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/product-reviews/59342-rust-protection-products-compared.html

 

[Pablo]

No problem. Never tried Eezox or Corrosion X. I guess so far I've never actually had any rust problems. I do chuckle at people who evaluate penetrants such as Kroil for rust prevention. Hello? - that is not the intended use! I do wish someone would evaluate the new Rem Oil with VCI, folks here and on the net really confuse the two.

 

[rclint]

It's the way of gun enthusiast to name anything by the first one maybe two names on the label.. only two names if they go together good.. or rhyme...

For cleaners as you mentioned most do a pretty good job at cleaning, some specific areas such as the action may need some special attention.. If it gets real bad I like to flush the action out with a spray type cleaner.

For the bore wipe-out for me was/is the best of the best, as I don't have to do anything but spray it in the bore (plugged bore) let it soak, you may need to repeat steps if it's really dirty.

Flitz metal cleaner if you have an off the shelf gun in (read not a expensive barrel) I have owned barrels costing more than the gun they were attached to= from 300 plinker barrels to $1600 match type barrels in which I was worried about even putting a bronze brush/coated rod down !! I have always kind of cleaned a barrel according to how much money I had in it, and what i used it for. 22 LR barrel for plinking I use a bore snake, 22LR $$$$ match type bore snake with brush removed, and keep my wax in the barrel for the same type of ammo= I don't want to remove my Lapua wax which is expensive to lay down...

Centerfires get the wipe-out treatment, and it will need brush between cleanings... A good barrel Lilja, Hart and many more will need very little cleaning... speaking of Kroil I read where BR members used to love to see competitors cleaning bore with kroil was a no no

 

[santov]

I'm always fascinated at finding automotive alternatives as gun lubes... but I'm going to be ignorant and ask why the need to melt or dissolve lead as opposed to using a mechanical means (nylon brush) to get it off?

When I shoot my Glock I field strip and scrub everywhere then the barrel and slide go in the ultrasonic cleaner for 2 min. They come out looking like brand spanking new. The only thing I've used is Rem spray oil to loosen the crud.

For my 1911 I do the same thing, and that slide/barrel are hand matched (bull).

My shotgun is another story. Inside the barrel, just where the shells "blossom" there's pretty hard crud. Since I can't dip the entire barrel in my US cleaner I scrub with a brass brush, wipe clean, and hold just the end in the US cleaner for a couple min. Comes out looking cherry new.

Of course I dry VERY carefully with compressed air and lots of rags. I also spray with a heavy coat of Rem, then spray again with compressed air to displace any water and leave protective coat.

Please don't get offended or defensive about all the different cleaners, I really am interested in which ones work. But for all the shooting I do a basic oil (not WD40) and elbow grease is more than enough.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: santov
I'm always fascinated at finding automotive alternatives as gun lubes... but I'm going to be ignorant and ask why the need to melt or dissolve lead as opposed to using a mechanical means (nylon brush) to get it off?


If a nylon brush alone works, no problem. My point was people think lead will dissolve, I say that's not going to happen. Nor am I putting vinegar or H2O2 in my barrel.

I enjoy messing with gun lubes, I'm kind of nutty that way. My goal is the opposite of finding one size fits all.

 

[bsmithwins]

Regarding the Mpro7: I've used it in the past and it works really good, especially if you want to strip old lube off weapons. It is expensive and I've fund a pretty good substitute.

Simple Green Extreme Aircraft cleaner is way cheaper by the gallon, cleans pretty darn good, and actually has less odor than Mpro7. Since it's rated safe for aluminum aircraft I'm fine with using it on aluminum frames or receivers. I've also used it in the ultrasonic tank to keep grunge from resettling on parts.

I got mine here: http://www.skygeek.com/13406.html

I got started with it when I ran out of my gallon of Mpro7 and was looking for a cheaper alternative for cleaning up after corrosive residue. Kinda branched out since then.

BSW

 

[rclint]

A brush will work on lead that is just wiped in a barrel, meaning it is not lead that is of any considerable amount= a leaded barrel. As I said above I use a brush to remove lead from a 22lr barrel, however if you take a factor pistol barrel most will be so rough or inconsistent inside the bore lands/grooves that it will pick up considerable amounts of lead.. I read an article on this once, they started with a fresh new barrel on two pistols, then shot lead in one, copper in another and the results were horrible for the barrel using lead.. even though you could not see the lead visually it showed up when weighing the barrel. If I'm not mistaken Glock even recommended against using lead for this very reason stating on part that the way in which they produced rifling would cause problems when shooting lead bullets, this was only part true as many cartridges were higher velocity than lead will hold up to before melting while going down the barrel !!

The lead is filling in small imperfections in the bore, copper will do the same, guiding metal both are some what self lubricating I have also shot brass bullets as well..

I'm not 100% against lead, however if your shooting a 9mm, 40 S&W etc at anywhere near SAAMI specs you will have a leaded barrel no matter the quality of the barrel...

I wonder what types of ammo, pistols, cartridges are being used with lead bullets ?

 

[Pablo]

I shoot a wide variety of bullets in my guns. Everyone's mileage may vary with the wide variety of barrels and ammo out there. My only experience shows that a brush with Ballistol, Hoppe's #9, M-Pro7 or standard gun oil don't touch some lead. Same brush with PBlaster cleans lead right out. Not sure what's in that stuff, but I sure hate the smell!

 

[tom slick]

Try "Wipe Out". It foams, you let it sit for 1 hr to overnight and the barrel is clean within a couple of patches.

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
... Same brush with PBlaster cleans lead right out. Not sure what's in that stuff, but I sure hate the smell!


Thanks for the info. I'll try PBlaster