Gummiest engine ever

[Pablo]

Even if they use some type of corporate service contract, it's going to be based off of the manufacturers recommended "normal" service, which would be 12months or 7500 miles for this Kia I believe. This Kia likely saw only one oil change at the ~7500 mile mark.

We just don’t know how many hours it ran.

Yeah and this guy is a dufus

 

[gfh77665]

I get it - 'its done".

That said, it would be interesting to see what the result of attempting rescuing it would be.

 

[IndyIan]

I get it - 'its done".

That said, it would be interesting to see what the result of attempting rescuing it would be.

I wonder if you could fill the engine right up to the valve cover with alcohol or brake cleaner that won't attack engine seals, leave it for a couple days, and then drain it. Maybe then fill again with solvent to regular oil level, and turn it over with the plugs out, for a minute, drain it again. Refill with some 0 weight oil, run it for a couple minutes at idle. Drain that, and then run some 0W8 for a tank or two, and go to regular oil after that?

 

[CleanSump]

I wonder if you could fill the engine right up to the valve cover with alcohol or brake cleaner that won't attack engine seals, leave it for a couple days, and then drain it. Maybe then fill again with solvent to regular oil level, and turn it over with the plugs out, for a minute, drain it again. Refill with some 0 weight oil, run it for a couple minutes at idle. Drain that, and then run some 0W8 for a tank or two, and go to regular oil after that?

Similar to the old shadetree fill it with Diesel and let it sit a few days. Drain and do voodoo mix a couple of times.

 

[Mechanician]

Customer towed his '78 (or '79) Ford Fairmont wagon into my father's shop. The 302ci V8 suddenly died on the road and wouldn't re-start.

After confirming the no-start condition, I got to removing the distributor cap and observed the rotor while cranking the engine. No rotation. I pulled the distributor and part of the broken drive shaft came with it.

After removing the oil pan, it was filled with sludged oil. The oil was so thick, the pick up screen had clogged and was sucked inwards toward the oil pump; oil was still allowed to "flow" as the suction tube remained open. I suppose this was a fail-safe design?

I found the cause for the twisted/broken pump drive shaft. There was a small, broken off piece of hard carbon-like material caught in the oil pump gears, essentially freezing the pump, twisting the pump drive shaft breaking it.

New pump and drive shaft, cleaned out the mess as best I could and re-assembled/re-timed. Luckily, the engine ran without knocking.

Questions were asked - found out that the owner used the "If full is good, over-fulled is better" logic.

This era Ford engines were also famous for doing this due to valve guide seals breaking apart.
The old "umbrella" type seals would get hard and break apart, falling into the oil pan.
The tell on those was it would do it again afterward, until all the seals were replaced.

 

[JimPghPA]

Some enties use vehicles as gate blockers that they want to be able to move ASAP when it is required to permit access, and also to block access after an authorized vehicle enters, think ram an unauthorized tailgater that might get past a simple mechanical gate. In such usage, a vehicle could have extremely low mileage and still have extremely high hours on the engine. Think only driven for checking for reliability, and actual gate movements in 10's of feet forward and then back in place, and maybe not that often. Yet idling 24 / 7 / 365. It's a unique relm of how to abuse a vehicle. And anyone who purchases used should know they exist. Usually with vehicles of enough weight to them to hold their own if a push comes to shove ever has to happen.