Greetings and a few questions

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Greetings everyone! I recently purchased a 2006 Silverado 5.3L and was just going to use Mobil 1 and a Pure One filter. Then I decided to google it to see if anyone recommends anything better. That's how I discovered this site. I never knew there was so much to know about motor oil. The amount of knowledge you people possess on these topics is mind boggling! At the same time, very interesting! I've been lurking for quite some time, but there are a few questions I can't seem to locate answers for, so I became a member.

In my searches, I read that Mobil 1 is a PAO synthetic and that PAO's tend to dry up seals. So then I thought that an Ester synthetic would be better, but haven't read many discussions with people recommending Ester based syn. Then I read the concept of mixing oils, something I never heard of before. Sort of like OCI's longer than 3,000 miles, never really knew you could go to 5,000 or beyond.
Anyway, here is some info that might help with my questions. I live in NE Ohio, drive about 10-12,000 miles a year with 85% of that being highway. 5 days a week I drive 16 miles to work, 90% of that highway. New 06 Silverado, 5.3, 2wd, Ext Cab, 6.5 box that I would like to keep for 10+ years. My first oil change is tomorrow (almost 700 miles) and I plan on doing another change around 2,000 miles. That’s when I want to start with Mobil 1/Purolator filter (Pure One for summer, Prem. Plus for winter). I’m going to use 5w30 while it’s still under warranty.

Based on that, would it be ideal to mix an ester syn.oil with the Mobil 1?
I plan on buying the 5 quart jugs at Wal Mart, so would something like 5q M1 + 1q Redline be a good idea or is that not enough ester to do much good? What about a 4/2 split?
Is there a better and/or easier to find ester than Redline that would mix better? I picked Redline because it had a high moly content.
Would Mobil 1 EP be a better choice to use (cost not being a factor)?
Should I quit sweating the small stuff and just go with M1/Purolator? If so, what about the seal issue with PAO’s?

I thought I would ask for what most would say would be ideal to start with and then switch it up if the UOA came back unfavorably after a 7,500 OCI.
Any advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated!!

John

p.s. sorry for the long first post
 
John,

Welcome to BITOG!!
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I wouldn't sweat the details so much. One synthetic oil such as Mobil 1 has a good additive package and seal shrinkage shouldn't be a problem. If you are adamant about using an ester with a PAO oil, you could Pennzoil Platnium. I believe that oil is Group IV (PAOs) and Group V (esters). PP is usually a little cheaper than M 1 too. The other point that you need to consider is the warantee of your vehicle. I believe your vehicle is equipped with a OLM (Oil Life Monitor). You will need to change that oil when that comes on at a minimum. The OLM doesn't take into account whether you are using a synthetic oil or not. It calculates the oil life based on a lot of variables such as engine temp, rpm, trip length, etc. Hope this helps.
 
Hi John,
I'm an AMSOIL guy myself. Mobil 1 is very similar but the additives make the difference. I'm not familiar with the additive content of Mobil but AMSOIL contains seal protectant additives that prevent this. No claims of any problems that I'm aware of. Intervals can range from 7500 to 25000 miles depending on your use and comfort level.
Mobil 1 is a good oil and there shouldn't be any need to mix with something else. This oil alone should outlast the vehicle.
Although not required, I might stay with a conventional until around 4000-5000miles. Some say you need to for better "break-in"?? What it does do is allow most of the break in wear materials to be removed before switching to a long life synthetic, unless you don't mind paying for a synthetic and changing it that early.
 
I've never heard of M1 causing any seal shrinkage. One member of this forum has put almost a million miles (combined) on his vehicles over the years using strictly M1, and I've never heard him mention any long term seal issues. I think that might only be a factor for older, high mileage engines that have had a life long diet of dino oil. Sometimes (not always), false seals can develop, and when M1 gets introduced they tend to get cleaned up a bit and this causes the seal leakage. But for someone running M1 from (almost) day one, I can't see how that would even be an issue. With proper OCI's the inside of that engine would probably be spotless while the body has rusted off the frame
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As previously stated, go by the OLM. I think only the Corvette is calibrated for synthetic (there may be others but I can't think off hand), but using M1 and changing per the OLM is a sure fire way to get a million miles out of that engine. Mine tends to tell me to change around the 7K mark, with similar driving to what you mentioned. You could possibly be on target for your desired 7500 mile OCI.

Oh, one more thing...
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Just change the trannie fluid and coolant
more like every 3 years rather than 100k and you'll get your 10 years no matter what oil you use.

I mix myself - delo and havoline but I wouldn't mix if I were using M1 or PP.
 
I've heard the straight PAO synthetic can cause seal problems, but I've also heard the Mobil 1 has a little bit (1-2%) of non synthetic oil to prevent this from happening.
 
Mobil 1 is blended properly to prevent any seal problems. Redline (mostly ester) is also blended properly to prevent seal problems. Pennzoil Platinum is not PAO and Ester. It is POE. (whatever that means.)

Any quality synthetic will not cause seal problems.

I am not a proponent of mixing oils. It probably won't hurt anything, but I don't think it will help either.

BTW you can use that Pure One filter year round.

I think your M1 plus Pure One filter is a good combo. Maybe go out to 75-100% of the OLM.
 
I thought PP was a new, and cheap, synthetic, called EOP (gosh-way too many acronyms). POE
(PolyOlEster) I'm pretty sure is not cheaper. I thought it was GC that was the POE

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Ah! ethylene - alphaolefin polymer
 
I have 2 cars that have been using Mobil 1 for a long time. A 2001 GP (3800) that has had nothing but Mobil 1 since 6000 miles (dino Mobil before that) and now has 66,000 miles and looks clean and has no leaks at all. The other is a 94 Grand Prix with the 3100 and seeps just a little but not enough to drip on the ground. It had Pennzoil dino oil for the first 90,000 miles or so. Since then it has been nothing but Mobil 1 5W-30 and it currently has 191,000 miles. I wouldn't be afraid to use a synthetic and I wouldn't bother to mix. I would agree with bighead about the false seals, that seems to me to be the most likely reason an older car switching to a synthetic might leak. Starting from new like you are doing should be safe. Welcome and goodluck.
 
Go with your original plan and follow the OLM and don't sweat it.
As said above, its the other maintanance on the truck that you need to make sure is done, not the engine oil.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. It looks like I'll just stick with the M1 and Pure One and see what a UOA looks like.

m2200b - Thanks for the suggestion on the trannie and coolant fluids. I will have to do some searches on them as well, although my next hunt will be for air filters.

winston - on using the Pure One filter, I read the Prem Plus might be better for oil flow in the cold months, so that's why I wanted to change filters then. Is there really not much difference? While this isn't the coldest area of the country in the winter, we're lucky enough to get "lake effect" weather from Lake Erie and it does get to single digit temps more often than I like.

Thanks again for advice, I appreciate it.
Also, thanks to everyone who answers the same questions over and over. I know it may seem like you're beating a dead horse at times, but sometimes your wording changes and will then show up in a search where your first reply or two wouldn't and it really helps lurkers like me.
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quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I thought PP was a new, and cheap, synthetic, called EOP (gosh-way too many acronyms). POE
(PolyOlEster) I'm pretty sure is not cheaper. I thought it was GC that was the POE

confused.gif


Ah! ethylene - alphaolefin polymer


Yes, ethylene-alphaolefin polymer (EOP). Maybe his use of POE was for "Purity of Essence".
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Z06, I didn't know you were a Dr. Strangelove fan! Maybe POE stands for 'Peace on Earth'.

"Are you sure it's Plan R??????"
 
I just screwed up on the POE thing. Too many acronyms to keep up on. I remember reading the paper describing the new process for creating the base stock so I knew it was not PAO.

As far as Pure One vs Prem Plus, I have a feeling that the Pure One actually allows better cold flow. However, that is purely based on anecdotal evidence that the Pure One filter reduced valve train noise on startup.
 
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