Grease for Open/Unsealed Bearings - Recommendations?
- Thread starter Carlostrece
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Since I made the OP of this thread... I've been learning a lot from bicycle maintenance forums because bicycle head tube is same as a mobility scooter head tube. I've also been all over the Internet learning about greases for motorcycles, boats, boat trailers, auto and heavy equipment. All in wet environments.
On bicycles the cheapest grease commonly used is white lithium grease. Better and more expensive is lithium complex grease. Better yet and slightly more expensive is calcium sulfanate grease. Most expensive and considered most premium is polyurea grease.
However, there's a bit more to it, as follows. All those greases are used on bicycles for crank bearings, wheel bearings, and headtube (open) bearings.
White lithium grease works OK for all those purposes in dry climates on bikes that are gently used and see few miles. The downside is white lithium is not good for open bearings (headtube) in wet climates. It's less effective at preventing wear than other types of grease and not good for EP. It has low resistance to flow so low resistance to turning/rotating crank & wheel bearings. So low resistance to pedaling a bicycle (good energy efficiency).
Lithium complex grease works reasonably well for all bicycle purposes in dry climates. Not good for open bearings in wet climates, unless it has lots of water resistance and corrosion prevention additives, but those additives eventually get used up if frequent exposure to water. So even with additives, lithium complex won't last as long in damp climates as a calcium sulfonate or polyurea grease would. Lithium complex has good EP protection (while the grease lasts). Due to friction reducing additives, it has even lower resistance to turning/rotating crank & wheel bearings. So very low resistance to pedaling a bicycle (good energy efficiency).
Calcium sulfanate grease works well for all purposes in all climates. It's extremely water and corrosion resistant. Lasts a long time in any climate. Good EP protection. Good at high temp, but that's not relevant for a bicycle. Not as good at low temp (stiff at low temp), but that's not relevant to my mobility scooter because I don't go out in winter temps. Moderate resistance to flow which resists turning/rotating bearings at the temps a typical bicycle operates at. This causes a slight (but noticeable) resistance to pedaling a bicycle. So slightly less energy efficient. Bicycle speeds and pressures are too slow/light to melt/soften the grease enough to reduce the flow resistance felt when pedaling. It's not energy efficient for pedaling bicycle crank and wheel bearings.
Polyurea shear stable grease works well for all bicycle purposes in all climates. It's highly water and corrosion resistant. Lasts a long time in any climate. Good EP protection. Good at high temp, but that's not relevant for a bicycle. Good at low temp (low resistance/flow even at at low temp), but that's not relevant to my mobility scooter because I don't go out in winter temps. Very low flow resistance to flow at all temperatures. This means low resistance to rotating crank and wheel bearings. i.e. - when polyureas grease is used in crank and wheel bearings it causes no noticeable resistance to pedaling the bicycle. This helps energy efficiency and is one of the reasons polyurea grease is popular for bicycles and electric motors.
I expect at some point ICE car manufacturers might switch to polyurea grease to increase fuel economy, especially in cold climates.
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Polyurea grease is the preferred/premium bearing grease for bicycle crank and wheel bearings because it lubricates well, lasts long, resists water, and does not cause noticeable drag/resistance on bearings (even on cold days), which makes a bicycle easier to pedal.
However, I don't have a bicycle, I'm not pedaling, and I'm not greasing bicycle crank or wheel bearings. I'm just want to grease the headtube (headset) bearings.
For headtube (headset) bearings, I think polyurea and calcium sulfonate are both excellent choices.
Lucas Red N Tacky [and other brands of calcium sulfonate grease (often red in color)] are (IMO) fresh water compatible greases based on their specs and are often factory fill in boat trailer wheel bearings for boats launched in fresh water.
Lucas Marine Grease [and other brands of marine calcium sulfonate (often green or blue)] have extra additives that make them good for salt water marine use according to their specs and are often factory fill in boat trailer wheel bearings for boats launched in salt water.
I'm aware that there are aluminum complex marine greases, but AFAIK they have less EP capability than calcium sulfonate marine grease. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Barium grease I know nothing about.
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Bottom line... Polyurea grease NLGI-2 is the most popular choice for highend bicycle grease. The most popular brand for bicycles is the Park Tool brand Polylube 1000 product name. However, any other brand of polyurea NLGI-2 should also work well. Such as John Deere, Mobil, Lucas, etc. I think most ideal would be any brand of polyurea grease that has moly in it.
Polyurea NLGI-2 is popular for bicycles because it gives good wear protection, water resistance, lasts a long time, and it's low drag on crank and wheel bearings gives easy pedaling. It's energy efficient.
That said, I'm not greasing crank and wheel bearings that rotate continuously for any time. I'm greasing open, unsealed headtube bearings that only turn a little bit. For that purpose a good calcium sulfonate grease would work just as well as a polyurea and last almost as long, IMO.
On bicycles the cheapest grease commonly used is white lithium grease. Better and more expensive is lithium complex grease. Better yet and slightly more expensive is calcium sulfanate grease. Most expensive and considered most premium is polyurea grease.
However, there's a bit more to it, as follows. All those greases are used on bicycles for crank bearings, wheel bearings, and headtube (open) bearings.
White lithium grease works OK for all those purposes in dry climates on bikes that are gently used and see few miles. The downside is white lithium is not good for open bearings (headtube) in wet climates. It's less effective at preventing wear than other types of grease and not good for EP. It has low resistance to flow so low resistance to turning/rotating crank & wheel bearings. So low resistance to pedaling a bicycle (good energy efficiency).
Lithium complex grease works reasonably well for all bicycle purposes in dry climates. Not good for open bearings in wet climates, unless it has lots of water resistance and corrosion prevention additives, but those additives eventually get used up if frequent exposure to water. So even with additives, lithium complex won't last as long in damp climates as a calcium sulfonate or polyurea grease would. Lithium complex has good EP protection (while the grease lasts). Due to friction reducing additives, it has even lower resistance to turning/rotating crank & wheel bearings. So very low resistance to pedaling a bicycle (good energy efficiency).
Calcium sulfanate grease works well for all purposes in all climates. It's extremely water and corrosion resistant. Lasts a long time in any climate. Good EP protection. Good at high temp, but that's not relevant for a bicycle. Not as good at low temp (stiff at low temp), but that's not relevant to my mobility scooter because I don't go out in winter temps. Moderate resistance to flow which resists turning/rotating bearings at the temps a typical bicycle operates at. This causes a slight (but noticeable) resistance to pedaling a bicycle. So slightly less energy efficient. Bicycle speeds and pressures are too slow/light to melt/soften the grease enough to reduce the flow resistance felt when pedaling. It's not energy efficient for pedaling bicycle crank and wheel bearings.
Polyurea shear stable grease works well for all bicycle purposes in all climates. It's highly water and corrosion resistant. Lasts a long time in any climate. Good EP protection. Good at high temp, but that's not relevant for a bicycle. Good at low temp (low resistance/flow even at at low temp), but that's not relevant to my mobility scooter because I don't go out in winter temps. Very low flow resistance to flow at all temperatures. This means low resistance to rotating crank and wheel bearings. i.e. - when polyureas grease is used in crank and wheel bearings it causes no noticeable resistance to pedaling the bicycle. This helps energy efficiency and is one of the reasons polyurea grease is popular for bicycles and electric motors.
I expect at some point ICE car manufacturers might switch to polyurea grease to increase fuel economy, especially in cold climates.
===
Polyurea grease is the preferred/premium bearing grease for bicycle crank and wheel bearings because it lubricates well, lasts long, resists water, and does not cause noticeable drag/resistance on bearings (even on cold days), which makes a bicycle easier to pedal.
However, I don't have a bicycle, I'm not pedaling, and I'm not greasing bicycle crank or wheel bearings. I'm just want to grease the headtube (headset) bearings.
For headtube (headset) bearings, I think polyurea and calcium sulfonate are both excellent choices.
Lucas Red N Tacky [and other brands of calcium sulfonate grease (often red in color)] are (IMO) fresh water compatible greases based on their specs and are often factory fill in boat trailer wheel bearings for boats launched in fresh water.
Lucas Marine Grease [and other brands of marine calcium sulfonate (often green or blue)] have extra additives that make them good for salt water marine use according to their specs and are often factory fill in boat trailer wheel bearings for boats launched in salt water.
I'm aware that there are aluminum complex marine greases, but AFAIK they have less EP capability than calcium sulfonate marine grease. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Barium grease I know nothing about.
===
Bottom line... Polyurea grease NLGI-2 is the most popular choice for highend bicycle grease. The most popular brand for bicycles is the Park Tool brand Polylube 1000 product name. However, any other brand of polyurea NLGI-2 should also work well. Such as John Deere, Mobil, Lucas, etc. I think most ideal would be any brand of polyurea grease that has moly in it.
Polyurea NLGI-2 is popular for bicycles because it gives good wear protection, water resistance, lasts a long time, and it's low drag on crank and wheel bearings gives easy pedaling. It's energy efficient.
That said, I'm not greasing crank and wheel bearings that rotate continuously for any time. I'm greasing open, unsealed headtube bearings that only turn a little bit. For that purpose a good calcium sulfonate grease would work just as well as a polyurea and last almost as long, IMO.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Does polyurea shear stable grease always have synthetic oil in it? Is it sometimes conventional oil?
Is there polyurea grease with a moly additive in it?
Is there a polyurea grease with synthetic oil and moly in it? If so, that'd be sweet! If that exists, please list brands and product names.
Is there a calcium sulfonate grease with synthetic oil and moly in it? If so, that'd be sweet! If that exists, please list brands and product names.
Is there polyurea grease with a moly additive in it?
Is there a polyurea grease with synthetic oil and moly in it? If so, that'd be sweet! If that exists, please list brands and product names.
Is there a calcium sulfonate grease with synthetic oil and moly in it? If so, that'd be sweet! If that exists, please list brands and product names.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
If I'm going to learn about grease (or anything else), I may as well enjoy learning and be thorough and diligent.
In the past, I underthought my head tube bearing lubrication, and my knowledge of grease was poor. I want to do a good job next time that I replace and lube the bearings and I want to have a good understanding of grease. Also, I'm enjoying learning about the topic.
95% of people at BITOG overthink motor oil. Overthinking oil is what BITOG is about.
So if I'm overthinking grease, I'm fine with that. I'm tired of suffering the consequences from underthinking it. Also, learning is fun.
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I was using Amsoil's off-road polymeric grease for chassis components that required greasing when I had them. It's calcium sultanate based with 5% Moly. I used it in #1 viscosity. When both my lower ball joint boots completely separated and it was exposed to the elements, the grease perfectly stayed in place.
Excellent BITOG style OCD investigation (from someone with similar traits). You are in good company here.
Based on your research, I would just use the Park's Poly 1000 and I would feel very confident about it being up there in the top one or two choices for your application. Rest easy and move on to your next investigation (that's what I do). Thanks for sharing - very informative.
I use High Performance Lubricants NLGI 1.5 aluminum complex grease.
Are thes ball bearings or tapered roller?
Ball bearings like in a bicycle where the front fork goes though the frame.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
My mobility scooter heartube's ball bearings are the size of BBs. These bearings are compression adjustable via a large diameter nut. There is no bearing seal. It's just like a bicycle headtube, except lower to the ground (because the front wheel is 9 inch diameter). So more exposure to dust and mud (sometimes there is dust/mud on some city sidewalks). Dust when dry. Mud when wet. A little bit of dust/mud gets into my headtube bearings.
Falling leaves on sidewalks decompose into mud every year. Once a year the city cleans the sidewalks, but not until after they've been a mess for weeks to months. This small city claims to have 18K trees. I believe it.
Luckily most sidewalks are clean much of the year.
If I get caught in the rain, the bearings get wet. I try to avoid rain as much as possible, but I live in a rain forest climate.
The weather here often changes without much warning. It can change from sunny to pouring rain in 5-30 min and then back to sunny, or might continue raining all day.
When it's warm and sunny I go out for a 3-6 mile ride (shopping, doctor, pharmacy, or restaurant) which is a 2-3 hour adventure. Usually a 20-30 min drive to an indoor destination. Then indoors 1-2 hours. Then 20-30 min drive home. I try to time my outdoors traveling to occur between rain showers, but sometimes get caught in the rain.
On worse days it rains all day, but I stay home on those days. It's so wet here that mushrooms sometimes grow in people's yards.
Every bicycle, mobility scooter, recreational scooter, and motorcycle in this climate has fresh water in its headtube bearings. Thankfully it's not salt water.
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Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Correct.
A great synthetic blend grease I used for years in my trucking business. Schaeffer product # 274.
https://www.amazon.com/Schaeffer-Ma...efix=schaeffer+274+grease,aps,108&sr=8-3&th=1
I have never been into a bicycle head so this is new to me. Generally ball bearings just take oil and not grease?My mobility scooter heartube's ball bearings are the size of BBs. These bearings are compression adjustable via a large diameter nut. There is no bearing seal. It's just like a bicycle headtube, except lower to the ground (because the front wheel is 9 inch diameter). So more exposure to dust and mud (sometimes there is dust/mud on some city sidewalks). Dust when dry. Mud when wet. A little bit of dust/mud gets into my headtube bearings.
Falling leaves on sidewalks decompose into mud every year. Once a year the city cleans the sidewalks, but not until after they've been a mess for weeks to months. This small city claims to have 18K trees. I believe it.
Luckily most sidewalks are clean much of the year.
If I get caught in the rain, the bearings get wet. I try to avoid rain as much as possible, but I live in a rain forest climate.
The weather here often changes without much warning. It can change from sunny to pouring rain in 5-30 min and then back to sunny, or might continue raining all day.
When it's warm and sunny I go out for a 3-6 mile ride (shopping, doctor, pharmacy, or restaurant) which is a 2-3 hour adventure. Usually a 20-30 min drive to an indoor destination. Then indoors 1-2 hours. Then 20-30 min drive home. I try to time my outdoors traveling to occur between rain showers, but sometimes get caught in the rain.
On worse days it rains all day, but I stay home on those days. It's so wet here that mushrooms sometimes grow in people's yards.
Every bicycle, mobility scooter, recreational scooter, and motorcycle in this climate has fresh water in its headtube bearings. Thankfully it's not salt water.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
I will see if that's feasible.
Marine trailer bearing grease has all the properties you are looking for. If you don't mind an annual disassembly and cleaning (winter project?) you'll extend their life considerably. Check out these guys https://electricscooterparts.com/bearings.html, they were super helpful when I fabbed an electric beach cart. Good luck, John
Bel-Ray Aluminum complex (#2) should work well.
Polyurea grease would probably be good too.
Water resistance is way more important than EP ability in your application!
Polyurea grease would probably be good too.
Water resistance is way more important than EP ability in your application!
Lizzard Skins makes a wrap around headset protector that will help keep water out. And realize, if that scooter is using a bicycle-common size headset, there are tons of different headsets, many of which offer excellent water protection. Some are also quite expensive. The rabbit hole is just beginning to open on this thread that already have 39 posts now...
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
That Lizard Skin is a great idea!
I don't know if my scooters headtube bearings are standard bicycle headset bearings. What does a standard bicycle headseat bearing set look like in 2025?
My setup has balls/BBs sandwhiched between 2 bearing cups. The bottom cup is press fitted onto headtube. The upper cup is part of a large diameter removeable/adjustable nut.
After removing the upper cap, the balls can fall out. Does that sound like a modern bicycle headset? I haven't been in a bicycle or motorcycle headset since I was a teenager 40 years ago. When I said it's like a bicycle headtube, I was referring to how bicycles were 40 years ago. Are modern bicycle headtube bearings still like that?
I'm wondering if I can buy American made balls, or Japanese or Taiwanese made balls for it instead of the stock cheap Chinese made balls. I don't think Chinese balls are properly hardened.
I don't know if my scooters headtube bearings are standard bicycle headset bearings. What does a standard bicycle headseat bearing set look like in 2025?
My setup has balls/BBs sandwhiched between 2 bearing cups. The bottom cup is press fitted onto headtube. The upper cup is part of a large diameter removeable/adjustable nut.
After removing the upper cap, the balls can fall out. Does that sound like a modern bicycle headset? I haven't been in a bicycle or motorcycle headset since I was a teenager 40 years ago. When I said it's like a bicycle headtube, I was referring to how bicycles were 40 years ago. Are modern bicycle headtube bearings still like that?
I'm wondering if I can buy American made balls, or Japanese or Taiwanese made balls for it instead of the stock cheap Chinese made balls. I don't think Chinese balls are properly hardened.
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