Grease for Open/Unsealed Bearings - Recommendations?

[Nessism1]

Most balls are SAE standard size. And that includes on Asian made headsets. If you have a pair of calipers, measure them, then head off to a bicycle repair shop, or buy a bag online. You don't need the cage. Just goop up the races with grease, and place the individual balls in there.

Regarding bicycle headsets, it's a matter of size. Most are either made around a 1" or a 1 1/8" fork steerer tube size. In the case of your scooter, though, it might be best to just keep it simple and regrease, or regrease after changing the balls. Just get the Park grease and be done with it.

 

[Carlostrece]

Most balls are SAE standard size. And that includes on Asian made headsets. If you have a pair of calipers, measure them, then head off to a bicycle repair shop, or buy a bag online. You don't need the cage. Just goop up the races with grease, and place the individual balls in there.

Good because my scooter head tube (head set) bearings don't have a cage. They're like classic oldschool bicycle and motorcycle head tube bearings. There is no cage. My cousin relies on tacky grease and swearing to hold the balls in place during assembly.

Regarding bicycle headsets, it's a matter of size. Most are either made around a 1" or a 1 1/8" fork steerer tube size. In the case of your scooter, though, it might be best to just keep it simple and regrease, or regrease after changing the balls.

I'd like to just clean, regrease, replace balls, and ressemble. i.e. just resuse the lower cup/race that's press fitted onto head tube. That's easy.

However, I'm now on my second set of balls and still using original cup/race. How many times can I reuse the original cup/race? I'm thinking next time the balls get replaced, maybe the cups/races should also be replaced. It won't be easy though because the lower cup is press fitted in place on head tube. Advice welcome.

Just get the Park grease and be done with it.

The Park polyurea grease (or any brand of good polyurea grease NLGI 2) would work well for headtube, but I've found several calcium sulfanate greases that would work even better for headtube and excellent for my car chassis and steering components too.

The area where polyurea grease is superior to calcium sulfonate grease for bicycles is crank and wheel bearings because polyurease grease does not cause any noticeable drag when pedaling, but that's not relevant for headtube.

Polyurea grease is water resistant, but calcium sulfonate grease is even more water resistant, especially the marine greases.

Both have a long service life.

 

[crashz]

All of the Amsoil greases used synthetic oil with calcium sulfonate as the thickener. Me, I would use any good commercial grease, tap the head tube for grease fitting and grease once a week. The benefit of frequent greasing outweighs the benefit of using the best of greases. It frequently flushes the gritty contaminants out of the ball bearings. Think of heavy equipment digging in the dirt. Even the best moly fortified greases do nothing if the dirt gets in the joints. Frequent greasing expels the dirt.

Of course, it does involve some labor and clean up of the grease blobs that come out. And if this is an indoor/outdoor rig, chances of dropping a dollop of grease on the carpet are greatly increased. Maybe the grease fitting idea is not so good...

 

[Carlostrece]

I'm probably going to get a calcium sulfonate grease with synthetic base oil, or at least synblend base oil (with no moly or PTFE). Moly & PTFE are not compatible with rolling bearings (ball, roller, needle).

Moly is ideal for sleeve bearings, pins, ball joints, but not compatible with my primary use, which is ball bearings. The highend multiuse greases I've chosen will be very good for all purposes I'd ever need them for.

Favorite is Phillips 66 Omniguard 220 (calcium sulfonate)
2nd favorite is Amsoil 100% Synthetic Water Resistant Grease. (calcium sulfonate)
3rd favorite is Chevron Black Pearl EP (polyurea)

While none of those have the word "marine" in their name, their specs show them to be top notch marine greases that also have excellent HP, shear stability, and service life. 2 or possibly all 3 are recommended for heavy duty EP marine use (ships, marine oil platforms, papermills (wet) heavy equipment, and automotive).

Lucas various greases sold in a tube or tub are good (above average), but can't match those ^. However, I do think Lucas Red Grease is the best spray grease.

Aluminum complex marine greases are good for marine use, but so are calcium sulfonate and polyurea. The thing I don't like about aluminum grease is somewhat less HP rating, and much less shear stable rating. So aluminum complex grease has a shorter service life, especially in auto applications. Polyurea and calcium complex have excellent service life and calcium sulfonate also has excellent shelf like, especially when it has a synthetic base oil.

Lithium complex greases are not ideal in wet conditions. With enough additives lithium grease can be made water resistant for a while, but those additives have limited lifespan. Therefore even marine grade lithium grease has a very limited lifespan for water resistance.

 

[Carlostrece]

Green Grease (the brand) has excellent specs on its data sheet, but it seems suspiciously good specs. I'm skeptical of the validity.

Also, it says "1264 water washout test - Pass". That's not a pass or fail test. It's a percentage score. I emailed Green Grease to inquire.

They do not reply.

Until Green Grease clarifies the situation, I don't believe their specs.

 

[Carlostrece]

I found a good bicycle parts supply store online that also has a physical store 40 miles from me. I called and talked with a fellow who works there about upgrading my mobility scooter head tube Chinesium ball bearings with some better quality bicycle headset ball bearings. Below is what he told me.

https://www.universalcycles.com
Search for "loose bearings"

Ball bearings grade 300 is mid tier quality used by Shimano and other mid tier bicycle brands). Grade 300 balls would be a signifigant upgrade over my scooter's cheap low quality stock Chinese ball bearings.

Ball bearings grade 25 is top tier quality used by best, very expensive bicycle brands.

Buy loose balls (no retainer/cage) because retainer cage is often made to fit a specific brand of bike headset and might not fit my mobility scooter headset cap/race.

Loose balls (of correct size) will fit my scooter head set. Grade 25 balls are only sold as loose balls.

He went on to explain that we'd need to put grease on bearing cup, then add balls so the grease would hold the balls in place during assembly. I guess he thought he needed to explain that because most people buy grade 300 balls held in place by a retainer/cage. I guess relatively few people buy loose balls these days.

Working with loose balls (no cage or retainer for balls) is what my cousin and I are already used to because we've only ever worked on old 70s & 80s bicycles and motorcycle and they all had loose balls. My scooter is only 8 years old, but it's technology is old style like a 70s or 80s bicycle. So assembling a headtube that uses loose balls is the method we know.

===

I'm excited! I'll upgrade the balls next time they're replaced, use better grease, and put on a lizard skin or a rubber o-ring.

I may also add a grease fitting if feasible. My cousin will have to figure that out since he's much more able bodied than I am. If he adds a grease fitting, we can put paper towel on the linoleum while he injects grease, or do it in my garage. I don't have carpet. I'm not worried if a blob of grease lands on floor. It's easy to clean linoleum.

 

[Carlostrece]

Earlier in thread a few said I was being OCD. Probably true, but this is BITOG so why not? I've learned a lot that will benefit my scooter and my car. So my OCD and BITOG both paid off!

 

[buck91]

Lucas extra HD is a very thick for nlgi 2, poly urea grease. Very waterproof/resistant and I like it for headsets, bottom brackets and thread treatment. Another really nice polyurea is chevron black pearl EP. I’ve switch to this in nlgi 1 for my bicycle wheel bearings.

 

[typhon]

I’m the type who tends to overthink things, and people around me often tease me for it.
But they’re also the ones who end up asking for my opinions and following my advice.
For my car and motorcycle, unless there’s a specific requirement, I usually use the WAKO’S HMG-U series for regular maintenance.

 

[willbur]

Since I made the OP of this thread... I've been learning a lot from bicycle maintenance forums because bicycle head tube is same as a mobility scooter head tube. I've also been all over the Internet learning about greases for motorcycles, boats, boat trailers, auto and heavy equipment. All in wet environments.

On bicycles the cheapest grease commonly used is white lithium grease. Better and more expensive is lithium complex grease. Better yet and slightly more expensive is calcium sulfanate grease. Most expensive and considered most premium is polyurea grease.

However, there's a bit more to it, as follows. All those greases are used on bicycles for crank bearings, wheel bearings, and headtube (open) bearings.

White lithium grease works OK for all those purposes in dry climates on bikes that are gently used and see few miles. The downside is white lithium is not good for open bearings (headtube) in wet climates. It's less effective at preventing wear than other types of grease and not good for EP. It has low resistance to flow so low resistance to turning/rotating crank & wheel bearings. So low resistance to pedaling a bicycle (good energy efficiency).

Lithium complex grease works reasonably well for all bicycle purposes in dry climates. Not good for open bearings in wet climates, unless it has lots of water resistance and corrosion prevention additives, but those additives eventually get used up if frequent exposure to water. So even with additives, lithium complex won't last as long in damp climates as a calcium sulfonate or polyurea grease would. Lithium complex has good EP protection (while the grease lasts). Due to friction reducing additives, it has even lower resistance to turning/rotating crank & wheel bearings. So very low resistance to pedaling a bicycle (good energy efficiency).

Calcium sulfanate grease works well for all purposes in all climates. It's extremely water and corrosion resistant. Lasts a long time in any climate. Good EP protection. Good at high temp, but that's not relevant for a bicycle. Not as good at low temp (stiff at low temp), but that's not relevant to my mobility scooter because I don't go out in winter temps. Moderate resistance to flow which resists turning/rotating bearings at the temps a typical bicycle operates at. This causes a slight (but noticeable) resistance to pedaling a bicycle. So slightly less energy efficient. Bicycle speeds and pressures are too slow/light to melt/soften the grease enough to reduce the flow resistance felt when pedaling. It's not energy efficient for pedaling bicycle crank and wheel bearings.

Polyurea shear stable grease works well for all bicycle purposes in all climates. It's highly water and corrosion resistant. Lasts a long time in any climate. Good EP protection. Good at high temp, but that's not relevant for a bicycle. Good at low temp (low resistance/flow even at at low temp), but that's not relevant to my mobility scooter because I don't go out in winter temps. Very low flow resistance to flow at all temperatures. This means low resistance to rotating crank and wheel bearings. i.e. - when polyureas grease is used in crank and wheel bearings it causes no noticeable resistance to pedaling the bicycle. This helps energy efficiency and is one of the reasons polyurea grease is popular for bicycles and electric motors.

I expect at some point ICE car manufacturers might switch to polyurea grease to increase fuel economy, especially in cold climates.

===

Polyurea grease is the preferred/premium bearing grease for bicycle crank and wheel bearings because it lubricates well, lasts long, resists water, and does not cause noticeable drag/resistance on bearings (even on cold days), which makes a bicycle easier to pedal.

However, I don't have a bicycle, I'm not pedaling, and I'm not greasing bicycle crank or wheel bearings. I'm just want to grease the headtube (headset) bearings.

For headtube (headset) bearings, I think polyurea and calcium sulfonate are both excellent choices.

Lucas Red N Tacky [and other brands of calcium sulfonate grease (often red in color)] are (IMO) fresh water compatible greases based on their specs and are often factory fill in boat trailer wheel bearings for boats launched in fresh water.

Lucas Marine Grease [and other brands of marine calcium sulfonate (often green or blue)] have extra additives that make them good for salt water marine use according to their specs and are often factory fill in boat trailer wheel bearings for boats launched in salt water.

I'm aware that there are aluminum complex marine greases, but AFAIK they have less EP capability than calcium sulfonate marine grease. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Barium grease I know nothing about.

===

Bottom line... Polyurea grease NLGI-2 is the most popular choice for highend bicycle grease. The most popular brand for bicycles is the Park Tool brand Polylube 1000 product name. However, any other brand of polyurea NLGI-2 should also work well. Such as John Deere, Mobil, Lucas, etc. I think most ideal would be any brand of polyurea grease that has moly in it.

Polyurea NLGI-2 is popular for bicycles because it gives good wear protection, water resistance, lasts a long time, and it's low drag on crank and wheel bearings gives easy pedaling. It's energy efficient.

That said, I'm not greasing crank and wheel bearings that rotate continuously for any time. I'm greasing open, unsealed headtube bearings that only turn a little bit. For that purpose a good calcium sulfonate grease would work just as well as a polyurea and last almost as long, IMO.

In your research, did you notice that for bicycle head bearings a low viscosity grease is recommended like #1 so that it flows back into the bearings as it lubes? Also, if you want polyurea, get Mobil Polyrex EM in a tube for a lot less than the Park stuff. Its specifically made for ball bearings. But, in bike circles by far the general consensus is that any auto grease far exceeds bike requirements. IMO, installing a grease fitting is an easy solution to your requirements. Doing so will likely solve your issue for a long time. Being retired, I think you may have a lot of time to over think this LOL

 

[willbur]

is this some sort of test? you appear to be over thinking this.

Way Way Way over- LOL

 

[Carlostrece]

In your research, did you notice that for bicycle head bearings a low viscosity grease is recommended like #1 so that it flows back into the bearings as it lubes? Also, if you want polyurea, get Mobil Polyrex EM in a tube for a lot less than the Park stuff. Its specifically made for ball bearings. But, in bike circles by far the general consensus is that any auto grease far exceeds bike requirements. IMO, installing a grease fitting is an easy solution to your requirements. Doing so will likely solve your issue for a long time. Being retired, I think you may have a lot of time to over think this LOL

I've learned a lot since I started this thread.

Park polyurea grease for bicycles is #2 thickness. #2 polyurea (of any good brand) is good for bicycles.

One reason that multipurpose polyurea grease is preferred for bicycles (and electric motors) is energy efficiency. It flows easily without causing much resistance. So pedaling is easier and more efficient if polyurea is used in crank and wheel bearings.

For headtube bearings, polyurea #2 and calcium sulfonate #2 (of any good brand) are preferred types of grease for headtube because they're highly water resistant (which is important for unsealed headtube bearings), good for wear reduction, good in high pressure, and have a long service life (especially if base oil is synthetic).

The slight performance differences between polyurea and calcium sulfonate are:
1) Polyurea has less much less resistance to flow in moderate and high speed rotating ball bearings. This means polyurea gives easier pedaling if used in crank and wheel bearings, but that's irrelevant in a headtube.
2) Polyurea and Calcium sulfonate are both good in high pressure applications, but calcium sulfonate is best for EP. That doesn't matter much in a bicycle or scooter headtube, but it might matter some.
3) Both polyurea and calcium sulfonate are very water resistant, but calcium sulfonate is more water resistant. Many brands of marine grease are calcium sulfonate.
4) Polyurea grease is expensive. Calcium Sulfonate is affordable.
5) Both polyurea and calcium sulfonate would be good for my car's steering and suspension grease zerk fittings, but calcium sulfonate is the most ideal for steering and chassis.

Lithium grease is less tolerant of water, has a shorter service life, and lithium grease typically costs more than calcium sulfonate grease. Lithium grease is obsolete technology, IMO.

Aluminum grease is highly water resistant. Some brands of marine grease are aluminum grease; but it's EP rating, shear stability, and service life aren't as good as calcium sulfonate. Calcium sulfonate usually costs less too. Calcium sulfonate is very water resistant. Many brands of marine grease are calcium sulfonate.

===

I could happily use any good brand of #2 polyurea or #2 calcium sulfonate grease in my scooter headtube bearings and get excellent results. I choose calcium sulfonate because it's (arguably) slightly better for my headtube bearings mainly because it's the more water resistant/marine choice. Also, calcium sufonate grease will be ideal for use in my car chassis zerc fittings. Calcium sulfonate is lower cost, though that's not a deciding factor.

Also, calcium sulfonate grease is fully compatible with lithium grease and most others. So I can use it in in my car's zerc fittings without concerns about it mixing with the grease that's already in there.

===

P.S. - If I was choosing a grease for wheel bearings or any other moderate to high speed rotating roller bearing or ball bearing, then I'd choose an EP rated polyurea grease because it would rotate with minimal drag, which would mean more energy efficiency. However, that's not my application.

 

[Carlostrece]

I can't add a zerc fitting to my scooter headtube. There's no place to add a zerc above the front fender. I don't want to add a zerc below the front fender where it'd have water and mud splashing/spraying on it.

My cousin did figure out a way to keep most dust and dirt out, but (relatively clean) rain water will still get into my headtube bearings.

So a good calcium sulfonate marine grease will be ideal for my headtube.

 

[Carlostrece]

P.S. - I'm going to use a good calcium sulfonate marine grease that does not contain moly or PTFE because moly and PTFE are not good in rolling bearings. i.e. - Moly & PTFE are not good in ball, roller, or needle bearings. My main application is low speed (calcium sulfonate) ball bearings (no moly or PTFE).

Moly is good in high pressure pins and bushings, but not good in ball bearings. My headtube main application is low speed ball bearings.

I'm not sure if PTFE is ever good in grease. Certainly not good in ball bearings. PTFE might be good in low pressure pins and bushings, but moly is better for high pressure pins and bearings.

For my headtube (low speed ball bearings) moly & PTFE are not appropriate. Calcium sulfonate marine greases (that I've seen) don't contain moly or PTFE.

I'm going to use a calcium sulfonate marine grease. Ideally one with synthetic oil in it for maximum service life.

 

[Carlostrece]

I think my OCD has paid off nicely in this thread. At the beginning I knew almost nothing about grease. Now I know a lot that's directly applicable to my applications and will be useful. You guys helped me get started in my learning process. Thanks!

 

[Nessism1]

For more OCD digging, start reading about headsets now. Most fail from indenting the races. Regreasing is the easy part.

I'm a long time bicycling rider, and I've thrashed many a headset. It was only after moving up range, to a high-end headset, with better bearings, that I've managed to get a headset to live more than a year or so. Hopefully, you won't have similar issues.

 

[facility1]

Carlostrece,,,look up Tuff-Gel,, (Lawson products) its a spray lubricant that sets up like a smooth sticky grease,this maybe a good choice, also ,this stuff is great in certain applications, OR can you drill a small 1/8 hole in the headstock ,chamfer the hole slightly and use a alemite rubber tip type grease fitting (like what you use on a chain saw bar roller nose),and squirt some grease in ???,,just a thought.

 

[Carlostrece]

Carlostrece,,,look up Tuff-Gel,, (Lawson products) its a spray lubricant that sets up like a smooth sticky grease,this maybe a good choice, also ,this stuff is great in certain applications, OR can you drill a small 1/8 hole in the headstock ,chamfer the hole slightly and use a alemite rubber tip type grease fitting (like what you use on a chain saw bar roller nose),and squirt some grease in ???,,just a thought.

I'll look into it. Thanks

 

[Carlostrece]

...start reading about headsets now. Most fail from indenting the races. Regreasing is the easy part.

Why did your race get indented? Severe impacts from jumping your bike?

We wait until I detect looseness in headset, then we know it's worn. Then my cousin replaces the balls and regreases my headset.

So far it's the lubricant and balls that have failed in my headset. My original races have held up so well that we reused them. My original races are currently using their 3rd set of balls.

Next time we'll replace the races/cups and balls because I don't want to push my luck and try resusing the same races a 4th time.

Stock lubricant from scooter factory was motor oil in my unsealed headtube bearings. That only lasted 1 year working good, 2nd year working OK.

The next set of balls we lubricated with Crisco (vegetable shortening/grease for baking) because that's what we had available at the time. That lasted 2 year working good, 3rd year working OK.

The next set of balls we lubricated with el cheapo FRAM wheel bearing grease. That lasted 3 years working good, but recently starting showing sign of wear (getting a bit loose). I think the FRAM grease will work OK a 4th year. Then headtube will need servicing.

Next time my cousin will install highend, upgraded balls and new stock races. I know I can buy compatible highend balls from a local bike shop, but I don't know if the bike shop has new races/cups that are compatible with my scooter.

The stock races/cups have been excellent. So I won't mind installing a new set of stock races. The stock balls have been lousy. I will upgrade the balls to highend grade 25 balls from local bike shop.

Also, next time I'm going to use a highend calcium sufonate grease (that does not contain moly nor PTFE). A highend polyurea grease would be another good option.

 

[buck91]

Headset bearings on bikes usually get index like that either form severe over tightening or from extensive use on an indoor stationary trainer.

Any half decent grease and a properly adjusted preload and the headsets last for years if not decades.