Got A New Flashlight...

The vapcell T8 16340s i got, claim 3 amps Continuous Discharge rate.
Based on HKJ's test below, this cell is not happy at 3 Amp draw - massive voltage sag:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Vapcell INR16340 850mAh T8 (Cyan) 2020 UK.html

I have the white Vapcells. They can handle more current:
https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Vapcell INR16340 800mAh (White) UK.html

Alas, you won't get any kind of serious current out of any of these little cells, regardless. Gotta use bigger cells for this. But 16340 is good for headlamps due to low weight/size. 18350 is also a good size for headlamps - not much larger, but more capacity.

47105612004_4f1eabf8a7_z.jpg



37674572545_a5d1fb3c8e_o.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thoughts on Sofirn? Both the SP31 vs SC35, and their 4x18650 lantern? We’re thinking about going on a trip where we will need lights and it’s an excuse to buy some new bigger ones.
 
Thoughts on Sofirn? Both the SP31 vs SC35, and their 4x18650 lantern? We’re thinking about going on a trip where we will need lights and it’s an excuse to buy some new bigger ones.

I have all three. What's your need, or purpose?

There's really nothing extraordinary about the SC31 Pro. Just another typical 18650 tube light with a ubiquitous SST40. It had humbler beginnings as a basic, cheap light, albeit with onboard charging, first with an SST20, then was given a cleaner-looking switch, and finally an SST40 and Anduril firmware in "Pro" guise. That made it the cheapest such light at the time, and when the "fan-men" took notice it became a star.

It is a good value, but if it ran ordinary firmware, it probably wouldn't stand out at all. The FET driver and constrained thermal mass means it heats up quickly, and loses much of its on-paper performance rather quickly. It's billed as "2000 lumen" light on turbo, but under sustained usage, is more like a 500 lumen light, and fades from there as voltage drops.

To be fair, that kind of marketing is typical in the industry. Its half-sibling, the Wurkkos FC11, follows the same performance path, but the LH351D emitter it has starts at a lower ceiling and performs similarly at a lower level. But at least it's a high CRI emitter, though I find that the bins they use can have a rather ugly green tint. In the high CRI game, Nichia is where it's at.

The SP35 is a better performer, given its regulated driver, 21700 cell, and higher mass. Off hand, it's maybe 1/2" taller, and +1/4" in diameter, so it's not as pocketable, but I think it's a better all-rounder, and throws father, without sacrificing that character. The button is a bit mushy, and could be tighter, as well as standing a bit too proud, but since you won't be mashing it repeatedly to configure settings, that's much less of an issue than it could be (think TS21). Unlike a lot of cheap lights, and their cheap FET drivers, the SP35 delivers ruler-flat sustained output, at a higher level and for longer, on the modes where the temp regulation isn't required. Starting from turbo mode, where ATR does come into play, the output will fluctuate, which some say they can see, others say they cannot. Because it doesn't run Anduril, it doesn't have the buzz, and will go unnoticed by those who think that is the be all/end all. But as a tool, and not a toy, it's a better light.

Between those two, I think the SP35 is superior, both objectively and subjectively. Anduril is fun to play with, and provides a lot of flexibility, but for most users, isn't going to be as much of a factor as it is for the hobbyists. What's amusing is when you come across the forum posts where even they become confused by why it does or does not behave in some fashion, according to the spider web diagrams, and others have to jump in to try to figure it out. No doubt, it is a remarkable achievement to cram all that functionality into such cheap hardware, but an on/off switch and flashes is a rotten UI nobody would choose if there was a choice.

For normal folk, it would be a detriment, even though it has a simple mode. The standard Sofirn UI on the SP35 and other recent models is good, and shared with other makes like Olight. Other than wishing it has a voltage-check function, I don't find it significantly lacking in any other way.

The LT1 was conceived at a time when the lantern segment wasn't as crowded, and there wasn't anything occupying the middle ground between the cheap plastic stuff, and the costly plastic stuff that at least performed well, without eating loads of alkalines.

Derived from the Q8 can light, it ticked off the boxes -- high CRI, good output, metal construction, moderate price, though by no means cheap. And Anduril. The quad-18650 arrangement gives it a lot of run time. The downsides? It's relatively heavy, and lacks a red mode, so it's not brilliantly suited for a backpacking/camping expedition. And while its weight does help, it's still tallish with a small base, so it's not the most stable thing in the world. It's not by accident that wider bases, whether 3D printed, or screwed-on, are a common accessory for the LT1, even for the wilds of one's home. They've repeated the pattern again with the LT1 Mini. It's cheaper and simpler to use a flashlight as a base, but perhaps not the best way for something where stability is a desired trait.

That doesn't make it a bad light, but since it appeared, the competition has grown, and become stronger, not least of all from its smaller sibling, the LT1S, which has a red mode, is more compact, and is better suited for travel, though its single 21700 limits its duty cycle. I don't regret my LT1, but if the LT1S had been around back then, It would have probably gotten my money instead.
 
My HS10 took 16 days to arrive to west coast.


Got an sp10 from Amazon in 2, Yesterday.

My protected Olight 14500s, too long to fit inside it.
Ripped cap off of one, so it would.

Sp10 pro okay, kind of floody, for a handheld.
No internal charging. Gets hot fast on turbo.
Amazed at output from both sp and hs 10 on turbo.
Hs10 4k color, 95cri 200 more lumens, and internal usb c charging for the win.
 
Still using my Fenix LD10 for many years, had LD12 but gifted it. Uses single AA battery and I use LADDAs from Ikea while I carry an extra fully charged same AA. Ikea's LADDA batts made in Japan are great, using both AA and AAA everywhere. Charger is Miboxer C4, also working great for me.
 
Very disappointed with the fancy Wurkkos TS21 light :-( It completely drained the battery with the tiny switch LED. It claims to have automatic shutdown but apparently that must only work for the main LED. Ongoing health issues meant I did not touch the light for entire year 2023. The OEM included battery had dropped below 2.0V

The leakage current must be quite high for 5000mAh battery to be completely drained and of course the bug where it forgets to shut off the switch LED. Or may be it does but there is still too much leakage.

Looks like I need to get in to habbit of loosening the tail cap while keeping any light back unless it has a physical clicky.
 
Very disappointed with the fancy Wurkkos TS21 light :-( It completely drained the battery with the tiny switch LED. It claims to have automatic shutdown but apparently that must only work for the main LED. Ongoing health issues meant I did not touch the light for entire year 2023. The OEM included battery had dropped below 2.0V

The leakage current must be quite high for 5000mAh battery to be completely drained and of course the bug where it forgets to shut off the switch LED. Or may be it does but there is still too much leakage.

Looks like I need to get in to habbit of loosening the tail cap while keeping any light back unless it has a physical clicky.

Unfortunately, that's a known issue with the TS21. The original version was fine, but when it was updated with the powerbank function, came spurious issues with the indicator light, and high idle drain.

I wanted to like it, but could never bring myself to buy one, since it's also fundamentally a hot rod, with heat capacity limiting its performance.

"Budget" lights can be great values, but are not free from bugs.

Physical lock out is a good idea for any light that isn't going to see regular usage, not just e-switch lights, or the TS21.
 
Sofirn IF25 is everyday carry for me. One thing I LOVE about it is the high CRI and lower color temp. I think mine is around 3100k. Night hikes with 1/3 power show the warmth of the trail without being cold blue. Battery can last a long time in it.

I bought the 3-cell quad mama-jama mostly to try as a power bank - but admittedly got scared of having that much lithium cells in a flashlight tube charging at night. Maybe too paranoid.
 
Back
Top Bottom