Got a MTD riding mower - Can't Find Any Info On it.

[SwampSurvivor]

Price was right. Just needs a battery - starts and runs great just needs to be jumped off of another battery. Also had to do an eviction of a mouse ... unfortunately I found out it was in there after it got jammed int the starter. May need a carb rebuild because it goes through a LOT of fuel ! Has some sort of tecumseh engine. Says industrial/commercial but it's the version that doesn't have an oil filter.

Here are some pictures of it. It might be an early 90s model? Seems to be in good shape.

From what I can tell, MTD mowers of this era had the model number listed on the seat. Which has been replaced.

I can't find anything on an 1183 model, but from what I can tell it can be either an "A" or a "C".

Any ideas? Can someone point me to a manual or something?

 

[blufeb95]

If you just need a carb, find the model of the engine, that's more important than the model of the mower.

 

[Brian123]

The Model of the engine should be on the Engine Cover!

 

[SwampSurvivor]

The engine is a Tecumseh Formula 12 without the optional filter.

However, concerned with belts, etc. Changing the transaxle oil if it needs it (appears to be seeping out of it).

 

[MParr]

The engine is a Tecumseh Formula 12 without the optional filter.

However, concerned with belts, etc. Changing the transaxle oil if it needs it (appears to be seeping out of it).

The engine should have a model number and serial number on it. You will need both for the correct carburetor kit.

 

[chemman]

There should be a plate under the seat (actually on the bottom of the seat) with the MTD model number.

 

[jeepman3071]

There should be a plate under the seat (actually on the bottom of the seat) with the MTD model number.

This.

The good news is there were A LOT of MTD mowers exactly like that one made under several different brands and all of the parts are the same. You can go to a Tractor Supply and the belt for MTD 38" deck will fit, as will the blades, since they are all the same.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

The engine should have a model number and serial number on it. You will need both for the correct carburetor kit.

I'll have to see if I can find that model / serial to get a carburetor kit.

There should be a plate under the seat (actually on the bottom of the seat) with the MTD model number.

Fortunately or unfortunately, the seat has been replaced . There's no tag on the seat any more.

The good news is there were A LOT of MTD mowers exactly like that one made under several different brands and all of the parts are the same. You can go to a Tractor Supply and the belt for MTD 38" deck will fit, as will the blades, since they are all the same.

That's good to know that the belt should be the same for all of them! Even the 90s ones?

 

[chemman]

Since your seat was replaced, I would contact MTD customer service and see if there is an alternate way to identify the model number.

 

[jeepman3071]

That's good to know that the belt should be the same for all of them! Even the 90s ones?

Yep!

 

[JTK]

Decent low cost little mower there, but those transmatic drive systems absolutely blow. I had that same rider, with a ~14hp briggs back around 2004.

It's a belt and variator pulley drive system. The center bushings on the movable pulley sheave stick and you loose most of your ground speed. You have to be careful on replacement belts also. They have to be the exact dimensions as OEM.

 

[MParr]

 

[benjy]

keep searching, especially brand specific + lawn mower forums + as noted many products are the same with different banding. good luck + today the internet is generally the only place for info on newer stuff with NO books + part #'s as in the past!!

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Decent low cost little mower there, but those transmatic drive systems absolutely blow. I had that same rider, with a ~14hp briggs back around 2004.

It's a belt and variator pulley drive system. The center bushings on the movable pulley sheave stick and you loose most of your ground speed. You have to be careful on replacement belts also. They have to be the exact dimensions as OEM.

Is it possible to replace the bushings? I'll make note of that on the replacement belts. This machine has been well taken care of as far as I can tell!

Low cost is right! I'm only into it $65 for a battery a quart of Supertech oil and some gas. Which it goes through.

 

[JTK]

Is it possible to replace the bushings? I'll make note of that on the replacement belts. This machine has been well taken care of as far as I can tell!

Low cost is right! I'm only into it $65 for a battery a quart of Supertech oil and some gas. Which it goes through.

If I remember correctly, the OEM assemblies can be pulled apart to replace the bearing/bushing.

You'll know when you loose ground speed that the variator is hung up.

Aftermarket assemblies used to be under $100.

 

[locomaster1969]

I had the same mower. Cut 1 acre with it each week. Shouldn't be too hard to find a rebuild kit or a new carb. I would take the carb apart and see what it needs. You can make a gasket if needed. I recall that mower holds 1.5 gallons of fuel. Keep the air filter clean and it will run many years. I ran 30wt. oil in mine. Check the oil level before you run it for the day. Good machine for cutting grass and towing a cart. Don't push it in high grass. Give her full throttle and adjust the ground speed as needed. Let us know what you find out.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I had the same mower. Cut 1 acre with it each week. Shouldn't be too hard to find a rebuild kit or a new carb. I would take the carb apart and see what it needs. You can make a gasket if needed. I recall that mower holds 1.5 gallons of fuel. Keep the air filter clean and it will run many years. I ran 30wt. oil in mine. Check the oil level before you run it for the day. Good machine for cutting grass and towing a cart. Don't push it in high grass. Give her full throttle and adjust the ground speed as needed. Let us know what you find out.

My yard is about an acre. If left to my own devices I wouldn't do it that often, but my neighbors do it multiple times per week so I need to do it at least once a week. I suppose.

I've never used a riding mower before - I'll keep it wide open and use the trans to control speed. When I was playing around yesterday I was controling speed in 3rd or 4th gear with lower throttle setting.

I used the SAE30 CF-2/SG monograde truck oil from Walmart in it. Cheap enough. I still need to figure out what goes in the rear transaxle/differential thing.

 

[mk378]

Non-hydrostatic mower transmissions usually have grease inside, not oil.

 

[repairman54]

My yard is about an acre. If left to my own devices I wouldn't do it that often, but my neighbors do it multiple times per week so I need to do it at least once a week. I suppose.

I've never used a riding mower before - I'll keep it wide open and use the trans to control speed. When I was playing around yesterday I was controling speed in 3rd or 4th gear with lower throttle setting.

I used the SAE30 CF-2/SG monograde truck oil from Walmart in it. Cheap enough. I still need to figure out what goes in the rear transaxle/differential thing.

On a rider you need to keep the engine speed up at max to keep the blades up to speed for proper cutting action.
Trans gears are used to control ground speed. Too fast can give a poor cut, especially if it's deep. I usually mow in 1st or 2nd but it depends on how the mower is geared speed wise. Slow ground speed works best when using a bagger on a rider for the best pickup.

 

[Skol8480]

My dad bought one just like that brand new in the early 90s to replace an old 22 inch bicycle handled, rear engine Snapper. I cut a lot of South Dakota prairie grass on that MTD.