Good weight oil for My Vortec 454

[irv]

Originally Posted by 440Magnum
Personal opinion here, and this is straying from an oil recommendation... but starting up monthly and just bringing it to operating temperature every few weeks *without* actually driving it does more harm than good. You need to get it out and put a load on it to bring the *oil* (not just the coolant) up to temperature and hold it there for a while (and also stir the transmission, rear axle, and transfer case oils if its a 4x4). Just idling up to normal coolant temperature puts a whole lot of moisture and acids in the oil.

If you can't realistically find enough nice days to take it out and drive it during the winter, IMO its better to go ahead and spray some top-end oil (Marvel Mystery, etc.) down the intake just as you shut it down the last time, and then LEAVE IT all winter long. Use a battery maintainer to keep the battery in good shape.


I agree with that a 100%. Either store it properly (Google winter vehicle storage) or drive it as 440Magnum suggests. Also, I'd consider fogging the engine if you can or at least dump a bit of oil down each cylinder.
Change your oil, put fuel stabilizer in it, raise it off the ground if possible and remove the battery. There is lots of info on how to do it properly.

A lot of people think starting a car every few weeks during storage is a good idea. Unless you intend on taking the car for a good drive, simply letting it idle is actually detrimental because condensation will build through the various systems and not properly burn-off

https://www.wheels.ca/top-ten/top-ten-tips-to-consider-for-winter-car-storage/

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by madeej11
Not from what I've read on Bitog 1,000 x before. It's either been stated or implied. Never seen it disputed till now. Oh yeah, you don't have to be sorry.


And I've tried to counter it every time I see it...
Look at the following...the heat is GENERATED by viscous shearing, and is actually heating the big end and block around it rather than "carrying" heat away from hot components.

 

[madeej11]

Must be brainwashed I guess. Your explanation and diagram seem to make sense. Thanks Shannow.

 

[Shannow]

Most welcome.
I agree, it's posted and posted, and feels intuitively like that's how it works, like the oil is a coolant that circulates, rather then a "working fluid"

 

[BrocLuno]

Oil pressure is perfect. So any oil that matches OP temp viscosity to what you are running now is good to go. Maybe find a 0W - XX that rates similar and be happy

 

[DoubleWasp]

That engine doesn't care if you put high-vis oil in it. Thousands of them are started in winter every year running 25w-40.

Your warm-weather only big block wouldn't suffer if you ran SAE-40.

My experience with big blocks always tends to lead me toward the higher end of the viscosity range, but you can run pretty much any oil in existence between 5w-30 and SAE50 for warm weather, and you're going to get the same results.

 

[Smith5361]

Originally Posted by skyactiv
If you like running a 10W40, use 0W40 in it instead. Meijer has 0W40 Valvoline synthetic in 5 quart jugs and in bottles.


What would be the benefit of stepping into the "0" range?

Originally Posted by dave1251
10W30 what is your OCI?


OCI?

 

[Smith5361]

Originally Posted by irv
Originally Posted by 440Magnum
Personal opinion here, and this is straying from an oil recommendation... but starting up monthly and just bringing it to operating temperature every few weeks *without* actually driving it does more harm than good. You need to get it out and put a load on it to bring the *oil* (not just the coolant) up to temperature and hold it there for a while (and also stir the transmission, rear axle, and transfer case oils if its a 4x4). Just idling up to normal coolant temperature puts a whole lot of moisture and acids in the oil.

If you can't realistically find enough nice days to take it out and drive it during the winter, IMO its better to go ahead and spray some top-end oil (Marvel Mystery, etc.) down the intake just as you shut it down the last time, and then LEAVE IT all winter long. Use a battery maintainer to keep the battery in good shape.


I agree with that a 100%. Either store it properly (Google winter vehicle storage) or drive it as 440Magnum suggests. Also, I'd consider fogging the engine if you can or at least dump a bit of oil down each cylinder.
Change your oil, put fuel stabilizer in it, raise it off the ground if possible and remove the battery. There is lots of info on how to do it properly.

A lot of people think starting a car every few weeks during storage is a good idea. Unless you intend on taking the car for a good drive, simply letting it idle is actually detrimental because condensation will build through the various systems and not properly burn-off

https://www.wheels.ca/top-ten/top-ten-tips-to-consider-for-winter-car-storage/



I will look into that. I've used fogging oils in the past, just always thought getting it to temp would be best and letting it warm up.

 

[RDY4WAR]

Originally Posted by Smith5361


OCI?


Oil Change Interval. At what mileage/time you change your oil.

 

[Smith5361]

Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by Smith5361


OCI?


Oil Change Interval. At what mileage/time you change your oil.



Lol thanks for the explanation. The truck always gets changed at 3k or just a hair over. I know it can go longer with synthetic and good filter but this usually amounts to me changing the oil in March and sometime around July and then again around November or December before it gets store away.

 

[ka9mnx]

Use synthetic in the fall before storage and forget it. Once a year oil changes (6,000 miles) with synthetic should be fine.

 

[wtd]

I have a 1998 Chevy K3500 with the Vortec 454 and 116,000 miles and I'm currently running Castrol HM 10W-40 year round. I still get piston slap with this viscosity like I did when I used 5W-30 but it goes away.

My oil pressure is pegged at 80 on the gauge when cold but I don't know how accurate that is since my gauge needle likes to bounce around even after I replaced the oil sending unit. At a hot idle in gear I'm usually showing anywhere from 20-30.

 

[wtd]

Originally Posted by maxdustington
Awesome truck, always wanted a GMT400 with a BBC. Pics please!

My dad has a 97 Sierra RCLB work truck, so awesome but bad on gas!

Here are a couple pics of mine.

 

[wtd]

Couple of engine pics.

 

[BrocLuno]

Looks good. Great engine

 

[sw99]

Love those regular cab long bed trucks!

 

[OilUzer]

Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by madeej11
Not from what I've read on Bitog 1,000 x before. It's either been stated or implied. Never seen it disputed till now. Oh yeah, you don't have to be sorry.


And I've tried to counter it every time I see it...
Look at the following...the heat is GENERATED by viscous shearing, and is actually heating the big end and block around it rather than "carrying" heat away from hot components.



Shannow,
What happens to the combustion heat? I always thought that's where most of the engine 's heat comes from!
If the combustion heat is taken away by coolant, what % of that heats up the oil or the engine block?

 

[wtd]

Originally Posted by sw99
Love those regular cab long bed trucks!

I like them too and it's a lot easier hooking up a goose neck trailer with one.

 

[Smith5361]

Originally Posted by wtd
I have a 1998 Chevy K3500 with the Vortec 454 and 116,000 miles and I'm currently running Castrol HM 10W-40 year round. I still get piston slap with this viscosity like I did when I used 5W-30 but it goes away.

My oil pressure is pegged at 80 on the gauge when cold but I don't know how accurate that is since my gauge needle likes to bounce around even after I replaced the oil sending unit. At a hot idle in gear I'm usually showing anywhere from 20-30.


Yea these gauges definitely aren't accurate. Would still like to get some sort of mechanical gauge or one of the HUD like Edge and other brands have.