Good Oil Change Article/Advice
- Thread starter TallPaul
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The article mentions cold oil change vs hot oil change. I have never noticed this before (and was not really looking) but my new-to-me 2005 4.0 Mountaineer only drained out 4.5 qts on the first change, which was done cold, whereas last weekend I changed it hot and it drained out all 5 quarts plus what was overfilled the previous change.
The vehicle takes 5 qts with filter and on the cold change was half a quart too full. On the hot change the 5 quarts filled it exactly to the full mark. Better to change this one hot, especially now that it has a fumoto drain valve mounted on it to make changes relatively easy.
The vehicle takes 5 qts with filter and on the cold change was half a quart too full. On the hot change the 5 quarts filled it exactly to the full mark. Better to change this one hot, especially now that it has a fumoto drain valve mounted on it to make changes relatively easy.
Quote:
Note: Some people advise against the practice of prefilling the filter. The reason is that new oil is often dirtier than what is recommended for engines. When new oil is introduced into the inside of a new filter, this oil will then pass unfiltered into the engine and critical frictional surfaces (cam/follower, ring/bore, bearing/shaft, etc.).
What???
Remind me to thoroughly filter all my new oil first before I pour it into the crankcase.
Note: Some people advise against the practice of prefilling the filter. The reason is that new oil is often dirtier than what is recommended for engines. When new oil is introduced into the inside of a new filter, this oil will then pass unfiltered into the engine and critical frictional surfaces (cam/follower, ring/bore, bearing/shaft, etc.).
What???
Remind me to thoroughly filter all my new oil first before I pour it into the crankcase.
yeah that does not make sense. at first i thought it was a typo
uhhhhhhhhhh...WHAT?
IIRC this has been discussed in the oil analysis forums or somewhere on this site and when samples of clean oil were tested for particles, there was some stuff in there, so the comment is likely true, but to me, insignificant. But pouring it in the crankcase assumes it then goes thru the filter before heading to the bearings, vs straight to the bearings from the center of the filter. Nonetheless, I will continue to prefill my filters as I don't care for the clackety noise waiting for pressure to come up.
In case of my cars, prefilling accomplishes nothing, so I don't do it. The filters are located at the top and they're cartridge style. Whatever oil you pour into the filter housing will flow right back into the sump.
That is absurd. The basic function of oil is to hold contaminants into suspension until such time as it's passed through the filtering media where it is retained and all BITOG'ers know this. The article tries to convince the reader that unopened, fresh oil is worse than the well used oil that was just drained? Where, pray-tell, do these individuals source their motor oil from?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Quote:
Note: Some people advise against the practice of prefilling the filter. The reason is that new oil is often dirtier than what is recommended for engines. When new oil is introduced into the inside of a new filter, this oil will then pass unfiltered into the engine and critical frictional surfaces (cam/follower, ring/bore, bearing/shaft, etc.).
What???
Remind me to thoroughly filter all my new oil first before I pour it into the crankcase.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Quote:
Note: Some people advise against the practice of prefilling the filter. The reason is that new oil is often dirtier than what is recommended for engines. When new oil is introduced into the inside of a new filter, this oil will then pass unfiltered into the engine and critical frictional surfaces (cam/follower, ring/bore, bearing/shaft, etc.).
What???
Remind me to thoroughly filter all my new oil first before I pour it into the crankcase.
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
IIRC this has been discussed in the oil analysis forums or somewhere on this site and when samples of clean oil were tested for particles, there was some stuff in there, so the comment is likely true, but to me, insignificant.
But is there proof that whatever is in there causes engine wear?
IIRC this has been discussed in the oil analysis forums or somewhere on this site and when samples of clean oil were tested for particles, there was some stuff in there, so the comment is likely true, but to me, insignificant.
But is there proof that whatever is in there causes engine wear?
Lots of things in that article don't ring true for me. The detergents in motor oil emulsify water so it would take a huge amount to have any settle to the bottom. You'd see the milky appearance of the oil first. I understand that new oil in the jug or drum might not have the cleanliness of oil that has passed through an engine oil filter--depends on the producer or packaging plant, I guess. Hydraulic systems are built to require much finer filtration. And I'll stick with hot oil drains.
This guys article on multigrade oil is also nonsensical.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/204/multigrade-oil
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/204/multigrade-oil
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Originally Posted By: OnTheWaterfront
This guys article on multigrade oil is also nonsensical.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/204/multigrade-oil
Amazing the complete misunderstanding people have of the oil grading system in regards to multi-grade oils.
This guys article on multigrade oil is also nonsensical.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/204/multigrade-oil
Amazing the complete misunderstanding people have of the oil grading system in regards to multi-grade oils.
Originally Posted By: OnTheWaterfront
This guys article on multigrade oil is also nonsensical.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/204/multigrade-oil
"It is interesting to me that owners of many later model cars will find 10w30 suggested in their manuals. I’ll be honest: 10W scares me. The 5w30 suggested by some also concerns me. In the southern part of the country, we don’t need 10W oils."
This guys article on multigrade oil is also nonsensical.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/204/multigrade-oil
"It is interesting to me that owners of many later model cars will find 10w30 suggested in their manuals. I’ll be honest: 10W scares me. The 5w30 suggested by some also concerns me. In the southern part of the country, we don’t need 10W oils."
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