Gold Eagle oil system flush

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Has anyone have any experience with this product.

Gold Eagle: Oil System Flush

SPECS:
Proven technology that safely removes harmful sludge, varnish and gum deposits from engine without causing leaks
Helps free sticky valves and rings
Allows oil to circulate freely
Helps improve performance and extend engine life
Contains no kerosene or fuel oil
Safe to leave in crankcase if drain plug is not removable


Usage: Use every 3rd oil change, or every 9000 miles under extreme conditions. Ever 22,000 miles for normal.

Directions: Add entire contents through oil fill opening before changing your oil. Let engine idle to circulate oil (2-3minutes). Shut down engine and immediatly remove drain plug and drain dirty oi. Change oil filter and refill crankcase with new motor oil according to the manufacturer specifics.

Contains: Petroleum oil and ethylene glycol monobutyl ether.

I personally used ARX but thinking of running this on my sisters beater car that consumes oil..TIA
 
Directions: Add entire contents through oil fill opening before changing your oil. Let engine idle to circulate oil (2-3minutes). Shut down engine and immediatly remove drain plug and drain dirty oi.

Circulate oil only 2 - 3 minutes! Geewhiz! That stuff would probably eat the chrome right off a bumper.

None for me, thanks.

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First is is the same ingredients only slightly weaker then the old Amsoil FLush. You can safely use it at fast idle for 15-30 minute's. I have use simalar products with the same ingredients for year's. 2-3 minutes is not enough time for it to do anything. You really need to run it for at least 15 minute 30 is even better at fast idle wich is only about 500-700 RPM's above regular idle speed noting insane and no reveing and no driveing around witht he stuff inthe engine.

It is not as effective or safe as Auto-Rx but since you can buy it localy and it is cheap I can understand trying it first!
 
You can safely use it at fast idle for 15-30 minute's. I have use simalar products with the same ingredients for year's. 2-3 minutes is not enough time for it to do anything.

Not fussing with you when I say, its odd then, that the manufacturer apparently disagrees with you...

dunno.gif


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what about the part were they say "Safe to leave in crankcase if drain plug is not removable" what would that flush do to your engine? clean it even more?
 
Quote:


what about the part were they say "Safe to leave in crankcase if drain plug is not removable" what would that flush do to your engine? clean it even more?




Oouuhh baby! I'll bet it would clean it!

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I used a bottle of this a few weeks back. I paid $4.99 for it at Pep Boys. I put it in oil that was pretty clean and let it run for 10 minutes. If the oil was any darker it was hard to tell.
After the 5 minute mark I checked the dip stick and the oil looked exactly as when I started. 2-3 minutes? I don't think it would have time to do anything.
I let drain over night and then installed a Purolator and Maxlife.
I would not buy it again. I am going the AutoRx route.
 
Why would you use a flush on a vechile that you could not flush??? I mean part of flushing is getting the old dirty fluid out and replaceing with clean fluid's. Where is the dirt going to go if it does not come out through the drain plug? The oil filter is not going to catch most of it with a solvent flush just the big stuff. The small stuff stay's in the oil. I wounder if they are refering to boater's that often use something like a topsider to suction out the oil since the drain plug often can not be reached easily if at all.So if the fluid was getting sucked out it would be ok.

The reason some say it is ok if the drain plug is not removeable is becuase the solvents are going to flash off rather quickly. I would not want to drive around though with solvents in the engine.As I explained earlier when the solvents flash the deposits will go right back into the oil and onto engine part's. This is one reason why I often have people use a fresh fill of conventional oil when doing a flush. If your oil is already loaded with all it can hold and disperse then the solvent is going to be working with one hand tied behind it's back any way. So I normaly get a cheap 15W40 for the added viscosity and dispersants then add the solvent to this. This minimizes the wear from the visocity drop and it gives you a fresh oil able to hold plenty of junk in suspension that get's losened by the solvent flush. I am sure you can imagine how thin an old 5W30 with 5000 miles onit will get when you drop a quart of solvent flush into the crankcase!!!
 
There is more than one way to get the used oil out of an engine than using the drain plug. I have not touched the drain plug on my VW TDI in the past 140K miles. I used a suction machine through the dip stick and actually got more oil out than using the drain plug. I can suck the used oil out of the oil cooler cavity that does not drain to the pan.
 
azsynthetic, You obviously did not read my post I clearly mentioned suction device for remveing the oil!!! Look before you leap!!!never know when their might be rock's down below!
 
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