I have had this 01 Nissan Sentra in the shop 3 times now for the clunking I feel in the front driver side floor board. Bad strut is ruled out. Those are fine. I had the tie rod ends and bushings replaced because they were bad, but the noise is still there. My mechanic just test drove it but it’s been wet out so he had a hard time hearing it. He put it up on the lift and inspected EVERYTHING under the front and the only thing he can find that he said “might” be doing it’s the control arm bushing. He said the rubber around is degraded, but he can’t be positive. You can’t just buy the dam bushing, you have by the entire control arm assembly for 175.00. Should I throw one on, or wait until the sound gets so bad it would be impossible to not diagnose it properly? The car will make a series of clunking sounds when I throw it in reverse to back out the garage and going forward from speeds at idle up to 30ish mph going over irregularities in the road then it makes the same sound. Yah or Nay on the control arm bushing?
going insane!!! control arm bushing?
- Thread starter Mark72
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Don't know about Nissans, but have to replace the bushings on my P2 Volvos about every 80K...you can do just the bushings on those cars, but the special tools and labor required make the control arms cheaper.
Shop around for arms, but avoid the cheap ones or you'll be replacing them again and soon.
The ball joint is also a possibility, replace them when the arm is off...
Shop around for arms, but avoid the cheap ones or you'll be replacing them again and soon.
The ball joint is also a possibility, replace them when the arm is off...
It could very well be the control arm bushings, they do wear out. I replaced my passenger side control arm which fixed my fun clunk issue. Like you, I replaced the tie rods and stabilizer bar end links first. I have the same car, a 2001 Sentra.
I narrowed down the issue by grabbing the wheel, while it was on the ground, and shaking it pretty hard. If the bushing is worn, you'll feel/hear it. I know that's not very technical, but whenever I raised the car up, it didn't seem inclined to clunk. Visually it wasn't too bad either. When I had it apart however, the rear bushing just fell out.
You can buy the bushings separate, but they will need to be pressed in. I opted for a new control arm, which was about $75 from rock auto. You will need an alignment afterwards, my wheel was quite out of spec afterwards.
Good luck with chasing the clunk, I know how maddening it can be.
I narrowed down the issue by grabbing the wheel, while it was on the ground, and shaking it pretty hard. If the bushing is worn, you'll feel/hear it. I know that's not very technical, but whenever I raised the car up, it didn't seem inclined to clunk. Visually it wasn't too bad either. When I had it apart however, the rear bushing just fell out.
You can buy the bushings separate, but they will need to be pressed in. I opted for a new control arm, which was about $75 from rock auto. You will need an alignment afterwards, my wheel was quite out of spec afterwards.
Good luck with chasing the clunk, I know how maddening it can be.
Obligatory:
http://www.feoa.net/threads/tools-for-lower-control-arm-bushings-and-installation.56352/
We used a drill to knock some material out of the old bushing then beat it out with a hammer. Then we used a bench vise to press the new one in.
http://www.feoa.net/threads/tools-for-lower-control-arm-bushings-and-installation.56352/
We used a drill to knock some material out of the old bushing then beat it out with a hammer. Then we used a bench vise to press the new one in.
Not sure if the one I looked at has the same design front suspension, it had a pretty loud clunking noise. I jacked the front end up and started shaking the tire in various positions. When went to roll the wheel forward and backward (hands at 3 and 9), the entire wheel assy would move forward and backward! Not just roll in a circular direction, but forward as if it weren't attached to the car.
Not sure my wheel moves like that or not. But the alignment is spot-on and the there isn’t any play or vibration in the steering wheel on highway speeds or in town. The wheel assembly were loose would you have alignment issues and vibration?
I know you said your strut's were fine, but what about the upper strut bushing?
It might be fun to get a go-pro type camera and start filming parts while you are driving?
I guess realistically, if you steering tie rods are good, wheel bearings are good, and the ball joint is good on the control arm, there isn't really a risk of loss of control by waiting until the problem is obvious.
I guess realistically, if you steering tie rods are good, wheel bearings are good, and the ball joint is good on the control arm, there isn't really a risk of loss of control by waiting until the problem is obvious.
Alright, I went over to the shop and looked at the control arm with my mechanic. You can see where the rubber grommet has worn away and the bolt is rusted so this has to be the issue with the thumping and popping. Part is ordered and will be installed end of this week. I asked him if it needed an alignment and he said I shouldn’t need one that they can be installed without needing it. That sort of had me wondering because I always thought an alignment was a must when replacing a control arm. Does that sound right?
I needed an alignment for sure afterwards, but I used an aftermarket control arm made by Mevotech. The ball joint threads were slightly longer, so much so I had to grind it down to make it fit comfortably under the CV joint. Might not be an issue with yours.
Odds are you will need an alignment because over time, the control arm bushings gradually become off center. Your car was probably aligned during the middle of the life of the control arm, so you wouldn't have a perfect bushing.
Some companies make entire control arms, but quality varies. I was once given an "Ultra-8" brand control arm for a Nissan 240SX, because it cost less than a ball joint. It was the most pathetic steel stamping I had ever installed on a car.
Often the car's manufacturer will only sell you a whole control arm, and only the aftermarket can sell you just the bushings. Other times the control arm is just one solid piece, but that doesn't appear to be your case.
Some companies make entire control arms, but quality varies. I was once given an "Ultra-8" brand control arm for a Nissan 240SX, because it cost less than a ball joint. It was the most pathetic steel stamping I had ever installed on a car.
Often the car's manufacturer will only sell you a whole control arm, and only the aftermarket can sell you just the bushings. Other times the control arm is just one solid piece, but that doesn't appear to be your case.
rock auto has MOOG control arms for $111.00 and several for less.
Originally Posted By: Mark72
The car will make a series of clunking sounds when I throw it in reverse to back out the garage and going forward from speeds at idle up to 30ish mph going over irregularities in the road then it makes the same sound. Yah or Nay on the control arm bushing?
Worn control arm bushings don't make clunking sounds; they squeak while going over speed bumps.
Clunking sounds when putting the transmission in reverse are from worn out transmission mounts.
The car will make a series of clunking sounds when I throw it in reverse to back out the garage and going forward from speeds at idle up to 30ish mph going over irregularities in the road then it makes the same sound. Yah or Nay on the control arm bushing?
Worn control arm bushings don't make clunking sounds; they squeak while going over speed bumps.
Clunking sounds when putting the transmission in reverse are from worn out transmission mounts.
Originally Posted By: Mark72
No. The clunking noise is also when driving. Not just reverse. So a Control arm bushing wouldn't make a clunking or thumping sound? I feel it in the floor by the gas peddle
When I had my Saturn ION, it would intermittently make a clunking noise, and it was the vertical LCA bushings.
I could gently pry up and down on the vertical LCA bushings, and the arm would rub against the subframe.
I was able to replace them by beating them in with a hammer.
It wouldn't surprise me that you have worn engine mounts. Many FWD Nissan models have weak engine mounts. What really sucks is that aftermarket ones are even worse.
No. The clunking noise is also when driving. Not just reverse. So a Control arm bushing wouldn't make a clunking or thumping sound? I feel it in the floor by the gas peddle
When I had my Saturn ION, it would intermittently make a clunking noise, and it was the vertical LCA bushings.
I could gently pry up and down on the vertical LCA bushings, and the arm would rub against the subframe.
I was able to replace them by beating them in with a hammer.
It wouldn't surprise me that you have worn engine mounts. Many FWD Nissan models have weak engine mounts. What really sucks is that aftermarket ones are even worse.
Originally Posted By: Mark72
That sort of had me wondering because I always thought an alignment was a must when replacing a control arm. Does that sound right?
If the alignment was good before you replaced it AND the new control arm is exactly the same size as the old one, then no alignment is needed. Having said that, you probably would need all the planets in some special alignment for that to be the case. In other words, you should get it aligned because the new control arm isn't going to be exact on the sizing and chances are that your current alignment is off too.
That sort of had me wondering because I always thought an alignment was a must when replacing a control arm. Does that sound right?
If the alignment was good before you replaced it AND the new control arm is exactly the same size as the old one, then no alignment is needed. Having said that, you probably would need all the planets in some special alignment for that to be the case. In other words, you should get it aligned because the new control arm isn't going to be exact on the sizing and chances are that your current alignment is off too.
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