Going for OEM, basic clutch kit replacement...?

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So, the Civic needs a new clutch some time in the near future(not immediately), and the flywheel will be re-surfaced etc.

I have narrowed my choice of clutch kit down to a few options for the 92 Civic VX that's my daily driver, though there are other options:

Beck/Arnley ( link
Exedy ( link
Sachs ( link

Most expensive is the Beck/Arnley, so I'm leaning away from that with the good reviews from so far the other brands. I'm leaning towards getting an Exedy, but Sachs can be had for cheapest since O'Reilly carries it locally(no shipping needed).

Here are other options locally, Luk brand(PepBoys):

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=dAi1oFiopEU54Ozh_CUdHM2RCVFF_S1QBSnFRS00A

Duralast from AutoZone(not sure of the manufacturer?), but it comes with a pilot bearing which not all of the kits include(though they all seem to have the release/throwout bearing):

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/D...13_15132_16502_



I don't want to have to re-do the labor on this job and that is my most important concern here. I want to get the closest thing to OEM for this old S20 M/T.
 
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Go with the Exedy kit. They make quality stuff. Buy a pilot bearing separately - it can't cost much.
 
Get the Exedy, that's what I have and you will be getting the same part number clutch I have, it will last for years and it grabs very hard, zero delay when you drop the clutch.

And I wouldn't worry about the bearings they include, my uncle snuffed and wasn't happy about my brand choice, but he was impressed by the quality when he looked inside the box at the bearings and clutch itself.

Zero regrets so far.
 
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Okay, I suppose that settles it. Exedy it is!
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I replaced my clutch in my civic with an Exedy clutch. Exedy/Daikin are now together. When I removed the oem clutch it was stamped Daikin. The new Exedy looked to be very much the same as the oem and performs as well as oem.My kit came with all bearings necessary. Bought it on ebay. The flywheel looked as new. Cleaned with brake cleaner and scotchbright and reinstalled after inspecting and measuring it.
 
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I've had good LUK and bad Sachs, but IDK if a bum flywheel killed the Sachs.

The advance auto clutch for my app was a reboxed LUK.

If the groupthink likes Exedy, I must defer.
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Both LUK and Sachs are OEM for many European cars makers, they make a quality product.

However it is possible that some folks are getting Chinese made counterfits that are branded with major part makers names. This has been on the increase and the most folks order over the internet the more likely you could get stung.

Buy auto parts only from major on line sellers that are well known with a good repuatation .
 
I've got Amazon's site listing their Exedy as sold by Exedy, whereas perhaps someone on eBay(big estore or not) you'd need to scrutinize their ratings to make sure no one complains of misleading auctions etc(another brand instead of the one you wanted).
 
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UPDATE:

So, I got the EXEDY 08-022 OEM clutch. The parts say "Made in Japan", materials claimed to be from USA, China, and Japan.

Anyway, I had a shop put this in for me. The guys told me afterward to drive it gently(no full WOT/racing it etc) for the 1st 1,000 miles, and of course not burning out the new clutch by riding on it. I did like how the shop adjusted the pedal to grab more quickly when removing your foot from the pedal, so that's hard to do now anyway. I do need to replace the master cylinder at the pedal eventually though, it's developing a leak.

However, this is my first experience driving a stick shift with a new clutch and it was also the car I learned in. About 2 years experience now with manual.

Is there really a 1,000 mile break-in period for a new clutch? I'm aware the new material will wear away over time initially before settling down.

Also, the shop found the need to replace the 'rear main' seal and 'drive axle' seals replaced where the CVs are. I'd imagine the rear main is for the engine? So, there goes some less oil consumption I'd hope for the engine side anyway. All transmission seals were not leaking and no sign of fluid in the clutch housing area/on the old clutch(no MTF smell either). They used Honda Genuine MTF afterward. I want to get some Amsoil in there again eventually, though. For this car, Amsoil MTF > newer HG. Just my opinion.

So, I'm really interested in any tips on driving with a new clutch. Much appreciated and thank you.
 
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Sounds like a decent shop to suggest replacing the rear main...it's incredibly easy to get to with the flywheel off and makes sense to replace at that time, even if it's not leaking. If they didn't care, they'd just leave it and not make the suggestion.
 
They did a good job. The car drives great now. Shifting feels more 'notchy' than I remember with the worn clutch, though.
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Could Honda Genuine MTF be lacking that much that the Amsoil MTF drained with the clutch replacement was allowing for 'smoother' shifts?
 
I'm sure you'll be fine but for future reference for anyone reading, aftermarket OE-replacement Exedy is down on stock in both pressure plate clamping force as well as disc thickness.
 
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^so, quality is now lacking???

I'd just hate to have to replace the clutch again anything shy of 100,000 miles. I am surprised since they are into racing clutches as well. Why cheap out on the OEM stuff?
 
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