GM OLM Dilema: Help me with my OCIs...

[zulu]

Hello all...

I've got a new Malibu with at 2.4L Ecotec. This is my second vehicle with the GM OLM system. My Silverado I change every 4 months or so because it just isn't hardly ever driven. I've read almost all the info I can think of regarding this, and it seems to be an incredibly well designed idea. My problem is that it seems to take OCIs down to the bare minimum. I know it supposidly has a 20% buffer built in, but most UOAs of people changing oil according to the OLM show that the oil had almost no life left.

I'm not a 3000 mile fanatic, but I do believe a few extra oil changes over the life of a car is more beneficial than pushing oil to it's end. There are WAY too many 200K cars on the road that were 3/3000 changers to dispute that.

That said, I need a soild 200K+ out of my Ecotec. Should I pick an arbitrary mileage (4-5K) or do I stick with the OLM? I long ago abandoned synthetic oil because for me it just isn't cost effective. I ran synthetics in my modified RSX, but it seems to be a waste in a grocery getter like a Malibu. I can change dino twice as often and still come out ahead on price. However, I just cringe at the thought of the OLM pumping out 8-9K OCIs in the summer. What are your thoughts?

Also, as the vehicle gets older with more miles (100K+), do OCIs need to be shortened?

 

[Bill in Utah]

Todays oils are that good.

The Ecotec motor is that good.

If it will make you sleep better at night, follow the OLM but change it when it gets to 20% left and do a UOA.

I agree with you, plenty of engines out there with tons of miles not using syn.

I've made 200k many times and 300k+ with no issues.

No on shorting the OCI due to the motor have more miles. My 2005 Corolla has seen 7k OCI on conventional with excellent results on the UOAs.

I'll go back to a 5-6k OCI or 6 mo once I get back on track.

Take care and welcome. Bill

 

[steve20]

I've been using 5K oil/filter change intervals for more than 10 years without probs-none of the engines in my fleet burn a drop. The wife's Tahoe with the OLM generally reads about 40% life left at 5K. The Corvette isn't driven enough to change by mileage so I change it every 6 months (2K)

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted By: zulu
Hello all...

That said, I need a soild 200K+ out of my Ecotec. Should I pick an arbitrary mileage (4-5K) or do I stick with the OLM?

Also, as the vehicle gets older with more miles (100K+), do OCIs need to be shortened?


Pennzoil yeller' bottle every 4-5K. Change the filter as required in your owners manual - at least until the warranty expires. Use the OEM AC Delco for the lifetime of the vehicle. No need to do micron filtering.

 

[PF52]

Originally Posted By: zulu
Hello all...

I've got a new Malibu with at 2.4L Ecotec.


Welcome!

I have a Cobalt with the same engine you have. I've chosen a somewhat-arbitrary 5000 mile change interval, but with that said, I keep an eye on the OLM just to see what it says. Its been running 9500-10,000 miles to get it down to 1% or so! I do a lot of highway driving, which I'm certain makes a difference. I use Castrol GTX by the way.

I plan to keep this car as long as I can, and think its better to err on the side of too many changes rather than too few, hence the 5000 interval as opposed to following the OLM entirely. I figure I'm splitting the difference. Plus, an oil change on this car is so easy, its not worth the procrastination.

 

[mpvue]

I wish I had that newer OLM in my VUE/2.2 ecotec; all mine does is tell me when to change, no % or anything. last time I paid attention, though, it came on around 9K. I change the oil twice a year, doing about 15K/yr, almost all hwy.

 

[Gary Allan]

I'd follow the OLM out to the limit just once and do a UOA (maybe more - but especially on this one) just to see what it looks like for stuff outside of the oil (fuel, etc.) ..and then design my own buffer in terms of a %. That way your OCI "contours" the OLM in shortening or lengthening the OCI based on changes in driving style and climate effects. It's far more discriminating than static time/mile calculations.

 

[Blue_Goose]

Originally Posted By: css9450
Plus, an oil change on this car is so easy, its not worth the procrastination.




Absolutely easy to change

I try to change anywhere between 5k and 7k..last change was a hair over 7K and I think the OLM said something like 42%?

I'll use synths if I get them on a deal such as RP for .99 a quart or some great rebate etc...other than that I have no problem using dino




Goose

 

[FZ1]

Another view. I get slightly better mpg w/ a synthetic vs. a dino so the synthetic pays for itself and you are probably running a better oil. Changing my thinking to err on the side of more vs. fewer oil changes. New plan is to run PP and change it in Nov. and May. that would be apprx. 3250 per change .02.

 

[Gary Allan]

6months is a good balance for most people who don't have tools like an OLM. Then again, if your OLM is going to force you to change oil in 105F or -25F and you're a DIY'r ..then 6 months can be your reasonable point of convenience to avoid it.

OLM's the greatest invention. Automatically calculating all the variable factors of fuel usage ..trip length ...power output/load ..etc..etc. This and a periodic UOA to assure the integrity of air filtration and other system integrity ..could really save a butt load of needless service.

 

[Cutehumor]

here's a win-win situation. change oil using syn and run the oil life meter to 0%. it's configured for dino oil. with synthetic, you have a buffer there as well.

 

[FZ1]

Right. I do all my maintenance on my car and bikes, including waxing, in spring and fall when it's more comfortable.

 

[zulu]

My problem with synthetics is that I can change dino twice as often and still come out ahead. And in reality, my drain intervals for a synthetic will only be extended by 1/3 or so if I follow the OLM (20% vs 0%), so it still just doesn't seem cost effective.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
My problem with synthetics is that I can change dino twice as often and still come out ahead.


That assumes that your time and ancillary activities (purchase, storage, cleanup, disposal) involved with the activity are worth ZERO. It's also not always the case in terms of price. While there are a ton of tightwads that manage to exist on "free after rebate" or "buy one get one" and such things, it's something that not everyone can adopt as a policy (think about it folks, the entire DIY population can't be sustained this way who's going to pay for the shelf space?). The typical cost of regular oil isn't 1/2 of most synthetics. It's more like at the 60-65% level.

 

[FZ1]

You can offset some are all of the additionl cost of syn with better mpg. Do you own math using your personal oci and see.

 

[mpvue]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
My problem with synthetics is that I can change dino twice as often and still come out ahead.


That assumes that your time and ancillary activities (purchase, storage, cleanup, disposal) involved with the activity are worth ZERO. It's also not always the case in terms of price. While there are a ton of tightwads that manage to exist on "free after rebate" or "buy one get one" and such things, it's something that not everyone can adopt as a policy (think about it folks, the entire DIY population can't be sustained this way who's going to pay for the shelf space?). The typical cost of regular oil isn't 1/2 of most synthetics. It's more like at the 60-65% level.

good point. I'm not OCD enough to stock up on oil when it's on sale or chase rebates. if I do an oil change twice a yr, is my budget really going to notice if that change costs me $40 or $20, or whatever the difference is? I don't think so. oil changes are a fact of life, it needs to be done, however infrequent so I'm not going to fret over the cost. fuel, on the other hand...

 

[3putter]

And needless use of petroleum resources...

 

[PF52]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
You can offset some are all of the additionl cost of syn with better mpg.


Is it noticeably better with synthetic?

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: css9450
Originally Posted By: FZ1
You can offset some are all of the additionl cost of syn with better mpg.


Is it noticeably better with synthetic?


Never been better for all the engines I've had. Plus even *if* you did get better MPG you still have to pay for the extra cost of syn.

I can do a complete oil change incl filter for what a single quart of Syn costs.

Bill

 

[Bill in Utah]

Quote:
The typical cost of regular oil isn't 1/2 of most synthetics. It's more like at the 60-65% level.



At the local Wal-Mart I can get 5 qts of Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline, QS, Halvoline for *less* than half of PP, Mobil 1, Syntec or QS Q whatever (I've stopped trying to figure out their syn names).

Mobil 1 costs $23 for 1 qts. Mobil 5000 cost $9.

Not even close to 50%...

These are not on sale prices. Everyday.

The last 4 cases of oil I just bought cost me less than ONE 5qt jug of Mobil 1 EP at Wal-Mart. 48 qts vs 5 quarts.

Take care, bill