Hope you didn't use Pennzoil conventional... It would be a waxy mess by now!
GM Credit & Sunfire Question
- Thread starter StevieC
- Start date
- Status
I'd almost say gas cap..might need a good fuel cleaner..helped a meighbor of mine.
Owning to versions of the generation (03, 04 Cav), they have both been good cars. In just over 60k on her car, just a fuel pump. Mine has been flawless so far.
I kinda wonder sometimes why I put M1 into the wife's car (runs flawless/clean as a whistle)since the engine is going to outlast the body with no problem. It's starting to rust, and after getting a good look at it, I might just let it go... Stupid rust.
Owning to versions of the generation (03, 04 Cav), they have both been good cars. In just over 60k on her car, just a fuel pump. Mine has been flawless so far.
I kinda wonder sometimes why I put M1 into the wife's car (runs flawless/clean as a whistle)since the engine is going to outlast the body with no problem. It's starting to rust, and after getting a good look at it, I might just let it go... Stupid rust.
If you are close to the border come to Canada and get your car rust sprayed at Rust-Check or Krown. (I prefer Krown) and you will save yourself a ton of money!
Originally Posted By: StevieC
If you are close to the border come to Canada and get your car rust sprayed at Rust-Check or Krown. (I prefer Krown) and you will save yourself a ton of money!
I'll second the Krown rust protection. Have been using them for years and have kept my vehicles rust free. Great product.
If you are close to the border come to Canada and get your car rust sprayed at Rust-Check or Krown. (I prefer Krown) and you will save yourself a ton of money!
Here is my Mini-van after 20 years:
Treated for 15 years with Krown. (Stopped 5 years before scrapping it)
Treated for 15 years with Krown. (Stopped 5 years before scrapping it)
See a lot of them here. Both Cavaliers and Sunfires. They are second in popularity only to Toyota and Honda. Many are in good shape (undercoated and rustchecked), but you see a few that are rusted so badly they look like they're held together by duct tape and coat hangers (and one or two I've seen clearly were).
Engines and transmissions seem very well made as these older Sunfires and Cavaliers have over 200,000 km on them (and some have over 300,000 km). The bodies tend to rust out before the engine or transmission goes (due to lack of undercoating, rust treatment).
They're also priced really well in the used car market (from a buyer's perspective). I'd have no reservations about buying one as a winter beater provided it wasn't too rusted and mileage on it was acceptable. My new neighbours have one that looks like it just left the showroom ("her" daily driver).
-Spyder
Engines and transmissions seem very well made as these older Sunfires and Cavaliers have over 200,000 km on them (and some have over 300,000 km). The bodies tend to rust out before the engine or transmission goes (due to lack of undercoating, rust treatment).
They're also priced really well in the used car market (from a buyer's perspective). I'd have no reservations about buying one as a winter beater provided it wasn't too rusted and mileage on it was acceptable. My new neighbours have one that looks like it just left the showroom ("her" daily driver).
-Spyder
Off topic slighly, but dad (who has always stuck to the big 3 US autos, and has owned several cars, vans, and pickups from all 3) only recently retired a Lumina - at 420,000 km. And only because it was at the point where it was no longer worth maintaining (it still ran). It might have been helped a long a bit by it seeing almost no short trips, and much more highway than stop and go. But it was still a tank. Multiple drivers, and you just couldn't kill it.
-Spyder
-Spyder
If they built cars like that or like the late 80's Cutlass's I would buy one in a minute...
My girlfriend has a 03 sunfire with the ecotec.
If we were in a no salt environment it would be doing even better.
We keep it clean, but we have had rotors rot out, we had to replace rear drums due to rust, and now the chassis is taking on some rust.
Other than that and a few electrical problems it is a solid car. I cringed that the OP said she was not changing the oil for 9k miles, that is too long with cheap oil. Who am I to say, she is the one with big mileage on the car!
If we were in a no salt environment it would be doing even better.
We keep it clean, but we have had rotors rot out, we had to replace rear drums due to rust, and now the chassis is taking on some rust.
Other than that and a few electrical problems it is a solid car. I cringed that the OP said she was not changing the oil for 9k miles, that is too long with cheap oil. Who am I to say, she is the one with big mileage on the car!
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Anyways... for the GM heads... Anyone get this P-Code before and know what it is?
I have heard everything from bad gas cap, to bad EVAP system to leaking vacuum hose on the top of the gas-tank etc.
Here you go: I know its hard to read here so if you need a better copy I can email it to you. But anyway - here you go:
xTooltipElement
Service Information
2004 Pontiac Sunfire | Cavalier, Sunfire (VIN J) Service Manual | Document ID: 1282976
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DTC P0455
System Description
The control module tests the evaporative emission (EVAP) system for a large leak. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor signal to determine the EVAP system vacuum level. When the conditions for running are met, the control module commands the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve OPEN and the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve CLOSED. This allows engine vacuum to enter the EVAP system. At a calibrated time, or vacuum level, the control module commands the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve closed, sealing the system, and monitors the FTP sensor input in order to determine the EVAP system vacuum level. If the system is unable to achieve the calibrated vacuum level, or the vacuum level decreases too rapidly, this DTC sets.
The following table illustrates the relationship between the ON and OFF states, and the OPEN or CLOSED states of the EVAP canister purge and vent solenoid valves.
Control Module Command
EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve
EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Valve
ON
Open
Closed
OFF
Closed
Open
Conditions for Running the DTC
• DTCs P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0122, P0123, P0125, P0452, P0453 are not set.
• The engine is running.
• The ignition voltage is between 10-18 volts.
• The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.
• The fuel level is between 15-85 percent.
• The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
• The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
• The start-up ECT and IAT are within 9°C (16°F) of each other.
• The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is less than 121 km/h (75 mph).
Conditions For Setting the DTC
The EVAP system is not able to achieve or maintain vacuum during the diagnostic test.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
• The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
• The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
• The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
• Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
• To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light.
• A temporary blockage in the EVAP purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system.
• To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT .
• Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
• A loose, missing, incorrect, or damaged fuel fill cap may cause this DTC to set.
• For intermittent conditions refer to Intermittent Conditions.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
This test verifies that the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is electrically functional.
This test verifies that the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve is electrically functional.
Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals may allow smaller leak areas to be more noticeable. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner.
This test verifies that the FTP sensor is accurate. An FTP sensor that does not correctly respond to vacuum, or pressure may cause this DTC to set.
Step
Action
Values
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics Evaporative Emissions Hose Routing Diagram
Connector End View Reference: Powertrain Control Module Connector End Views or Engine Controls Connector End Views
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls
2
Inspect the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System for the following conditions:
• A loose, missing, or damaged service port schrader valve
• A loose, incorrect, missing, or damaged fuel fill cap
• A damaged EVAP canister purge solenoid valve
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Inspect the EVAP system for the following conditions:
• Any disconnected, improperly routed, kinked, or damaged EVAP pipes and hoses
• A damaged EVAP canister vent solenoid valve or EVAP canister
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 3
3
Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.
Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 50 percent and back to 0 percent with a scan tool.
Do you hear or feel a clicking from the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve when it is commanded to 50 percent?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 5
4
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve ON and OFF with the scan tool.
Do you hear or feel a click as the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve is commanded ON and OFF?
--
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 7
5
Disconnect the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve and a known good ground. Refer to Troubleshooting with a Test Lamp in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 29
6
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve and the control circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 50 percent and then to 0 percent with a scan tool.
Does the test lamp illuminate or pulsate when the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is commanded to 50 percent and turn OFF when the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is commanded to 0 percent?
--
Go to Step 23
Go to Step 21
7
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve.
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve and a known good ground. Refer to Troubleshooting with a Test Lamp in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 30
8
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve and the control circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Troubleshooting with a Test Lamp in Wiring Systems.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve ON, with a scan tool.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 24
Go to Step 22
9
Important: Larger volume fuel tanks and/or those with lower fuel levels may require several minutes for the floating indicator to stabilize.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emission System Tester (EEST) power supply clips to a known good 12-volt source.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve to nitrogen.
connect the nitrogen/smoke hose to the 0.5 mm (0.20 inch) test orifice on the bottom-front of the J 41413-200 .
Use the remote switch to activate the J 41413-200 .
Align the red flag on the flow meter with the floating indicator. Use the remote switch to de-activate the J 41413-200 .
Install the J 41415-40 Fuel Tank Cap Adapter to the fuel fill pipe.
Install the fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Remove the nitrogen/smoke hose from the test orifice and install the hose onto the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve closed with a scan tool.
Use the remote switch to introduce nitrogen and fill the EVAP System until the floating indicator stabilizes.
Compare the flow meter's stable floating indicator position to the red flag.
Is the floating indicator below the red flag?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 10
10
Important: Ensure that the vehicle underbody temperature is similar to the ambient temperature and allow the surrounding air to stabilize before starting the diagnostic procedure. System flow will be less with higher temperatures.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the J 41413-200 power supply clips to a known good 12-volt source.
Install the J 41415-40 to the fuel fill pipe.
Connect the fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Connect the J 41413-200 nitrogen/smoke supply hose to the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve closed with a scan tool.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve on the J 41413-200 control panel to SMOKE.
Use the remote switch to introduce smoke into the EVAP system.
Use the J 41413-VLV EVAP Service Port Vent Fitting to open the EVAP service port.
Remove the J 41413-VLV once smoke is observed.
Continue to introduce smoke into the EVAP system for an additional 60 seconds.
Inspect the entire EVAP system for exiting smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light.
Continue to introduce smoke at 15 second intervals until the leak source has been located.
Did you locate and repair a leak source?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 11
11
Disconnect the J 41415-40 from the fuel fill pipe.
Install the fuel fill cap to the fuel fill pipe.
Connect the J 41413-200 nitrogen/smoke supply hose to the EVAP service port.
Use the remote switch to introduce smoke into the EVAP system.
Inspect the entire EVAP system for exiting smoke with the J 41413-SPT .
Continue to introduce smoke at 15 second intervals until the leak source has been located.
Did you locate and repair a leak source?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 12
12
Use the remote switch to stop introducing smoke.
Install the J 41415-40 to the fuel fill pipe.
Connect the J 41413-200 nitrogen/smoke supply hose to the J 41415-40 .
Connect the vehicle fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve open with a scan tool.
Compare the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter with a scan tool, to the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
Is the scan tool Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter within the specified value of the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
1 in H2O
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 25
13
Seal the EVAP system using the EVAP Purge/Seal function with a scan tool.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve on the J 41413-200 control panel to NITROGEN.
Use the J 41413-200 to pressurize the EVAP system to the first specified value.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter more than the second specified value?
10 in H2O
5 in H2O
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 25
14
Use the remote switch to stop introducing nitrogen into the EVAP system.
Increase the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 100 percent.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 17
15
Connect the nitrogen/smoke hose to the EVAP service port.
Remove the J 41415-40 .
Install the fuel fill cap to the fuel fill pipe.
Start the engine.
Allow the engine to idle.
Use the purge/seal function to seal the system, with a scan tool.
Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid to 30 percent.
Observe the vacuum/pressure gauge on the J 41413-200 and the FTP parameter on the scan tool.
Allow the vacuum to increase on the gauge of the J 41413-200 , until it reaches approximately 16 inch H2O.
Use the purge/seal function to seal the system, with a scan tool.
Is the FTP parameter on a scan tool within the specified value of the vacuum/pressure gauge on the J 41413-200 , until the vacuum reached the abort limit on a scan tool?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 25
16
Did the FTP parameter on a scan tool display more than the specified value?
3.2 V
Go to Diagnostic Aids
Go to Step 25
17
Disconnect the EVAP canister purge vacuum source from the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 28
Go to Step 18
18
Disconnect the EVAP canister purge pipe from the EVAP purge solenoid valve.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 33
Go to Step 19
19
Disconnect the EVAP purge pipe at the EVAP canister.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 31
Go to Step 20
20
Disconnect the EVAP vapor pipe at the EVAP canister.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 35
Go to Step 32
21
Test the control circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve for an open or for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 27
22
Test the control circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve for an open or for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 27
23
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairsin Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 33
24
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairsin Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 34
25
Test the low reference circuit of the FTP sensor for an open or high resistance. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 26
26
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the FTP sensor. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 36
27
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the control module. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 37
28
Repair the pinched or obstructed EVAP canister purge solenoid valve vacuum source.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
29
Repair the open or short to ground in the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Replace the fuse as necessary.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
30
Repair the open or short to ground in the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Replace the fuse as necessary.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
31
Repair the restriction in the EVAP purge pipe.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
32
Repair the restriction in the EVAP vapor pipe.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
33
Replace the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
34
Replace the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid Valve Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
35
Replace the EVAP canister. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
36
Replace the FTP sensor. Refer to Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
37
Replace the control module. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
38
Important: Larger volume fuel tanks and/or those with lower fuel levels may require several minutes for the floating indicator to stabilize.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the J 41413-200 power supply clips to a known good 12-volt source.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve to nitrogen.
Connect the nitrogen/smoke hose to the 0.5 mm (0.20 inch) test orifice on the bottom-front of the J 41413-200 .
Use the remote switch to activate the J 41413-200 .
Align the red flag on the flow meter with the floating indicator. Use the remote switch to de-activate the J 41413-200 .
Install the J 41415-40 to the fuel fill pipe.
Install the fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Remove the nitrogen/smoke hose from the test orifice and install the hose onto the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve closed with a scan tool.
Use the remote switch to introduce nitrogen and fill the EVAP System until the floating indicator stabilizes.
Compare the flow meter's stable floating indicator position to the red flag.
Is the floating indicator below the red flag?
--
Go to Step 39
Go to Step 10
39
Observe the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
Increase the EVAP purge solenoid valve to 100 percent.
Does the pressure decrease?
--
Go to Step 40
Go to Step 17
40
Observe the fuel tank pressure sensor parameter with a scan tool.
Is the scan tool fuel tank pressure parameter within the specified value of the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
1 in H2O
Go to Step 41
Go to Step 25
41
Observe the Capture Info with a scan tool.
Are there any DTCs that have not been diagnosed?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
System OK
© 2010 General Motors. All rights reserved.
Anyways... for the GM heads... Anyone get this P-Code before and know what it is?
I have heard everything from bad gas cap, to bad EVAP system to leaking vacuum hose on the top of the gas-tank etc.
Here you go: I know its hard to read here so if you need a better copy I can email it to you. But anyway - here you go:
xTooltipElement
Service Information
2004 Pontiac Sunfire | Cavalier, Sunfire (VIN J) Service Manual | Document ID: 1282976
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DTC P0455
System Description
The control module tests the evaporative emission (EVAP) system for a large leak. The control module monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor signal to determine the EVAP system vacuum level. When the conditions for running are met, the control module commands the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve OPEN and the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve CLOSED. This allows engine vacuum to enter the EVAP system. At a calibrated time, or vacuum level, the control module commands the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve closed, sealing the system, and monitors the FTP sensor input in order to determine the EVAP system vacuum level. If the system is unable to achieve the calibrated vacuum level, or the vacuum level decreases too rapidly, this DTC sets.
The following table illustrates the relationship between the ON and OFF states, and the OPEN or CLOSED states of the EVAP canister purge and vent solenoid valves.
Control Module Command
EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve
EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Valve
ON
Open
Closed
OFF
Closed
Open
Conditions for Running the DTC
• DTCs P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0122, P0123, P0125, P0452, P0453 are not set.
• The engine is running.
• The ignition voltage is between 10-18 volts.
• The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.
• The fuel level is between 15-85 percent.
• The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
• The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4-30°C (39-86°F).
• The start-up ECT and IAT are within 9°C (16°F) of each other.
• The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is less than 121 km/h (75 mph).
Conditions For Setting the DTC
The EVAP system is not able to achieve or maintain vacuum during the diagnostic test.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets
• The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on the second consecutive ignition cycle that the diagnostic runs and fails.
• The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The first time the diagnostic fails, the control module stores this information in the Failure Records. If the diagnostic reports a failure on the second consecutive ignition cycle, the control module records the operating conditions at the time of the failure. The control module writes the operating conditions to the Freeze Frame and updates the Failure Records.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
• The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
• A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
• A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
• Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
Diagnostic Aids
• To help locate intermittent leaks, use the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emissions System Tester (EEST) to introduce smoke into the EVAP system. Move all EVAP components while observing smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light.
• A temporary blockage in the EVAP purge solenoid valve, purge pipe or EVAP canister could cause an intermittent condition. Inspect and repair any restriction in the EVAP system.
• To improve the visibility of the smoke exiting the EVAP system, observe the suspected leak area from different angles with the J 41413-SPT .
• Reviewing the Failure Records vehicle mileage since the diagnostic test last failed may help determine how often the condition that caused the DTC to be set occurs. This may assist in diagnosing the condition.
• A loose, missing, incorrect, or damaged fuel fill cap may cause this DTC to set.
• For intermittent conditions refer to Intermittent Conditions.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
This test verifies that the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is electrically functional.
This test verifies that the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve is electrically functional.
Introducing smoke in 15 second intervals may allow smaller leak areas to be more noticeable. When the system is less pressurized, the smoke will sometimes escape in a more condensed manner.
This test verifies that the FTP sensor is accurate. An FTP sensor that does not correctly respond to vacuum, or pressure may cause this DTC to set.
Step
Action
Values
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics Evaporative Emissions Hose Routing Diagram
Connector End View Reference: Powertrain Control Module Connector End Views or Engine Controls Connector End Views
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls
2
Inspect the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System for the following conditions:
• A loose, missing, or damaged service port schrader valve
• A loose, incorrect, missing, or damaged fuel fill cap
• A damaged EVAP canister purge solenoid valve
Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Inspect the EVAP system for the following conditions:
• Any disconnected, improperly routed, kinked, or damaged EVAP pipes and hoses
• A damaged EVAP canister vent solenoid valve or EVAP canister
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 3
3
Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.
Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 50 percent and back to 0 percent with a scan tool.
Do you hear or feel a clicking from the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve when it is commanded to 50 percent?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 5
4
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve ON and OFF with the scan tool.
Do you hear or feel a click as the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve is commanded ON and OFF?
--
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 7
5
Disconnect the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve and a known good ground. Refer to Troubleshooting with a Test Lamp in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 29
6
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve and the control circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 50 percent and then to 0 percent with a scan tool.
Does the test lamp illuminate or pulsate when the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is commanded to 50 percent and turn OFF when the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve is commanded to 0 percent?
--
Go to Step 23
Go to Step 21
7
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve.
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve and a known good ground. Refer to Troubleshooting with a Test Lamp in Wiring Systems.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 30
8
Connect a test lamp between the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve and the control circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Troubleshooting with a Test Lamp in Wiring Systems.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve ON, with a scan tool.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
Go to Step 24
Go to Step 22
9
Important: Larger volume fuel tanks and/or those with lower fuel levels may require several minutes for the floating indicator to stabilize.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the J 41413-200 Evaporative Emission System Tester (EEST) power supply clips to a known good 12-volt source.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve to nitrogen.
connect the nitrogen/smoke hose to the 0.5 mm (0.20 inch) test orifice on the bottom-front of the J 41413-200 .
Use the remote switch to activate the J 41413-200 .
Align the red flag on the flow meter with the floating indicator. Use the remote switch to de-activate the J 41413-200 .
Install the J 41415-40 Fuel Tank Cap Adapter to the fuel fill pipe.
Install the fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Remove the nitrogen/smoke hose from the test orifice and install the hose onto the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve closed with a scan tool.
Use the remote switch to introduce nitrogen and fill the EVAP System until the floating indicator stabilizes.
Compare the flow meter's stable floating indicator position to the red flag.
Is the floating indicator below the red flag?
--
Go to Step 12
Go to Step 10
10
Important: Ensure that the vehicle underbody temperature is similar to the ambient temperature and allow the surrounding air to stabilize before starting the diagnostic procedure. System flow will be less with higher temperatures.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the J 41413-200 power supply clips to a known good 12-volt source.
Install the J 41415-40 to the fuel fill pipe.
Connect the fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Connect the J 41413-200 nitrogen/smoke supply hose to the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve closed with a scan tool.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve on the J 41413-200 control panel to SMOKE.
Use the remote switch to introduce smoke into the EVAP system.
Use the J 41413-VLV EVAP Service Port Vent Fitting to open the EVAP service port.
Remove the J 41413-VLV once smoke is observed.
Continue to introduce smoke into the EVAP system for an additional 60 seconds.
Inspect the entire EVAP system for exiting smoke with the J 41413-SPT High Intensity White Light.
Continue to introduce smoke at 15 second intervals until the leak source has been located.
Did you locate and repair a leak source?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 11
11
Disconnect the J 41415-40 from the fuel fill pipe.
Install the fuel fill cap to the fuel fill pipe.
Connect the J 41413-200 nitrogen/smoke supply hose to the EVAP service port.
Use the remote switch to introduce smoke into the EVAP system.
Inspect the entire EVAP system for exiting smoke with the J 41413-SPT .
Continue to introduce smoke at 15 second intervals until the leak source has been located.
Did you locate and repair a leak source?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 12
12
Use the remote switch to stop introducing smoke.
Install the J 41415-40 to the fuel fill pipe.
Connect the J 41413-200 nitrogen/smoke supply hose to the J 41415-40 .
Connect the vehicle fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve open with a scan tool.
Compare the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter with a scan tool, to the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
Is the scan tool Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter within the specified value of the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
1 in H2O
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 25
13
Seal the EVAP system using the EVAP Purge/Seal function with a scan tool.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve on the J 41413-200 control panel to NITROGEN.
Use the J 41413-200 to pressurize the EVAP system to the first specified value.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter more than the second specified value?
10 in H2O
5 in H2O
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 25
14
Use the remote switch to stop introducing nitrogen into the EVAP system.
Increase the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve to 100 percent.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 15
Go to Step 17
15
Connect the nitrogen/smoke hose to the EVAP service port.
Remove the J 41415-40 .
Install the fuel fill cap to the fuel fill pipe.
Start the engine.
Allow the engine to idle.
Use the purge/seal function to seal the system, with a scan tool.
Command the EVAP canister purge solenoid to 30 percent.
Observe the vacuum/pressure gauge on the J 41413-200 and the FTP parameter on the scan tool.
Allow the vacuum to increase on the gauge of the J 41413-200 , until it reaches approximately 16 inch H2O.
Use the purge/seal function to seal the system, with a scan tool.
Is the FTP parameter on a scan tool within the specified value of the vacuum/pressure gauge on the J 41413-200 , until the vacuum reached the abort limit on a scan tool?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 16
Go to Step 25
16
Did the FTP parameter on a scan tool display more than the specified value?
3.2 V
Go to Diagnostic Aids
Go to Step 25
17
Disconnect the EVAP canister purge vacuum source from the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 28
Go to Step 18
18
Disconnect the EVAP canister purge pipe from the EVAP purge solenoid valve.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 33
Go to Step 19
19
Disconnect the EVAP purge pipe at the EVAP canister.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 31
Go to Step 20
20
Disconnect the EVAP vapor pipe at the EVAP canister.
Is the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor parameter Less than the specified value?
1 in H2O
Go to Step 35
Go to Step 32
21
Test the control circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve for an open or for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 27
22
Test the control circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve for an open or for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 27
23
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairsin Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 33
24
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairsin Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 34
25
Test the low reference circuit of the FTP sensor for an open or high resistance. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 26
26
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the FTP sensor. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 36
27
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the control module. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 38
Go to Step 37
28
Repair the pinched or obstructed EVAP canister purge solenoid valve vacuum source.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
29
Repair the open or short to ground in the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Replace the fuse as necessary.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
30
Repair the open or short to ground in the ignition 1 voltage circuit of the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Replace the fuse as necessary.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
31
Repair the restriction in the EVAP purge pipe.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
32
Repair the restriction in the EVAP vapor pipe.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 38
--
33
Replace the EVAP canister purge solenoid valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
34
Replace the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid Valve Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
35
Replace the EVAP canister. Refer to Evaporative Emission Canister Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
36
Replace the FTP sensor. Refer to Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
37
Replace the control module. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 38
--
38
Important: Larger volume fuel tanks and/or those with lower fuel levels may require several minutes for the floating indicator to stabilize.
Turn OFF the ignition.
Connect the J 41413-200 power supply clips to a known good 12-volt source.
Turn the nitrogen/smoke valve to nitrogen.
Connect the nitrogen/smoke hose to the 0.5 mm (0.20 inch) test orifice on the bottom-front of the J 41413-200 .
Use the remote switch to activate the J 41413-200 .
Align the red flag on the flow meter with the floating indicator. Use the remote switch to de-activate the J 41413-200 .
Install the J 41415-40 to the fuel fill pipe.
Install the fuel fill cap to the J 41415-40 .
Remove the nitrogen/smoke hose from the test orifice and install the hose onto the J 41415-40 .
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Command the EVAP canister vent solenoid valve closed with a scan tool.
Use the remote switch to introduce nitrogen and fill the EVAP System until the floating indicator stabilizes.
Compare the flow meter's stable floating indicator position to the red flag.
Is the floating indicator below the red flag?
--
Go to Step 39
Go to Step 10
39
Observe the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
Increase the EVAP purge solenoid valve to 100 percent.
Does the pressure decrease?
--
Go to Step 40
Go to Step 17
40
Observe the fuel tank pressure sensor parameter with a scan tool.
Is the scan tool fuel tank pressure parameter within the specified value of the J 41413-200 pressure/vacuum gauge.
1 in H2O
Go to Step 41
Go to Step 25
41
Observe the Capture Info with a scan tool.
Are there any DTCs that have not been diagnosed?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
System OK
© 2010 General Motors. All rights reserved.
Thank you GMBoy!
The salt environment (living next to the Atlantic its in the air year round, and roads are heavily salted in winter) is the car killer here too. You don't see many pre-2000 cars in the winter, and the ones you do are from a select few makers or of very few model types - or they're visibly rusted to pieces.
For the most part, if their cars last more than 10 years, and are still worth keeping, then you only see them in the summer time. But then you see some really nice cars, particularly among the collectors who've fully restored them, keep them in mint condition, and drive them only for a few months a year (June-September).
Treating the light rust spots on mine (using POR-15) is my big priority now, prior to undercoating and Rustchecking. Corollas and Civics tend to hold up well year round here when taken care of. That may be partly because the original owner, in paying more here for one of these than its Korean or US competitor, is also more willing to pay the extra to have it factory undercoated (mine was, and it was deal breaker for any potential car I looked at that wasn't).
-Spyder
For the most part, if their cars last more than 10 years, and are still worth keeping, then you only see them in the summer time. But then you see some really nice cars, particularly among the collectors who've fully restored them, keep them in mint condition, and drive them only for a few months a year (June-September).
Treating the light rust spots on mine (using POR-15) is my big priority now, prior to undercoating and Rustchecking. Corollas and Civics tend to hold up well year round here when taken care of. That may be partly because the original owner, in paying more here for one of these than its Korean or US competitor, is also more willing to pay the extra to have it factory undercoated (mine was, and it was deal breaker for any potential car I looked at that wasn't).
-Spyder
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Aside from the intake manifold gaskets killing massive numbers of GM V6's, there were not that many other reasons why a GM engine, especially a V6 or V8, won't keep going for a very long time on minimal maintenance. And respond well to mods at 150k+ miles. The engines, while not being the latest whiz-bang tech, have proven very reliable.
The problem with GM has been their rustproofing, or should we say, lack thereof. Lots of GM cars and trucks around me are showing lots of rust, yet still driving.
The problem with GM has been their rustproofing, or should we say, lack thereof. Lots of GM cars and trucks around me are showing lots of rust, yet still driving.
It's because all of the 3 domestic automakers have thinned out the steel in their vehicles. Chrysler is the worst for this IMO.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
It's because all of the 3 domestic automakers have thinned out the steel in their vehicles. Chrysler is the worst for this IMO.
That is true. They saved a lot of weight doing that. Safety doesn't suffer, however. I know when we went to the new GMT900's (2007+ Large Suv's) I could not believe how easily the steel dented. We would put small dings in the fenders just leaning on them when building the truck. But, the Japanese cars have had thin metal for far longer than the Domestics.
It's because all of the 3 domestic automakers have thinned out the steel in their vehicles. Chrysler is the worst for this IMO.
That is true. They saved a lot of weight doing that. Safety doesn't suffer, however. I know when we went to the new GMT900's (2007+ Large Suv's) I could not believe how easily the steel dented. We would put small dings in the fenders just leaning on them when building the truck. But, the Japanese cars have had thin metal for far longer than the Domestics.
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GMBoy I'm not saying it does affect safety, if anything it might be better because the thinner metal absorbs the impact of a crash better.
As for the thinner metal it is true that both Domestic and Foreign makes have thinned out the steel to save on cost but IMO the "Foreign" (Except Toyota IMO) do a better job at coating the steel and painting it to stand up to rust than the Domestic seem to.
Up here in our country where they like to salt even if it looks like its going to snow you see a ton of domestics rusting out withing the first couple years of ownership whereas foreign seem to take about 5-7 years to achieve the same results.
I'm not picking on Domestics I'm just noticing this is all...
As for the thinner metal it is true that both Domestic and Foreign makes have thinned out the steel to save on cost but IMO the "Foreign" (Except Toyota IMO) do a better job at coating the steel and painting it to stand up to rust than the Domestic seem to.
Up here in our country where they like to salt even if it looks like its going to snow you see a ton of domestics rusting out withing the first couple years of ownership whereas foreign seem to take about 5-7 years to achieve the same results.
I'm not picking on Domestics I'm just noticing this is all...
Originally Posted By: StevieC
GMBoy I'm not saying it does affect safety, if anything it might be better because the thinner metal absorbs the impact of a crash better.
As for the thinner metal it is true that both Domestic and Foreign makes have thinned out the steel to save on cost but IMO the "Foreign" (Except Toyota IMO) do a better job at coating the steel and painting it to stand up to rust than the Domestic seem to.
Up here in our country where they like to salt even if it looks like its going to snow you see a ton of domestics rusting out withing the first couple years of ownership whereas foreign seem to take about 5-7 years to achieve the same results.
I'm not picking on Domestics I'm just noticing this is all...
+1. Really notice it here on the east coast where we're surrounded by ocean and you can smell the salt in the air. In the spring the roads are white with it.
May be that, in catering to more markets than the big 3, and in being the leader for decades in using smaller engines and emphasizing consequent reduction in size and weight, that they had more incentive and experience in constructing thinned out steel bodies that stand up over time.
Maybe the result of a different focus. Most places outside North America, gas is ridiculously expensive and has been that way for longer than our more recent price increases. So where the big 3 never entirely shed their emphasis on building bigger and/or faster, the imports have always focused instead on efficiency.
There are probably other factors at play here too. But the fact that Honda and Toyota are the two biggest sellers in Canada isn't due to marketing brilliance, price, or proximity. And not far behind them are newer players like Hyundai and Kia.
The big 3 still seem the biggest players in the pickup market. But that's about it. At least here.
-Spyder
GMBoy I'm not saying it does affect safety, if anything it might be better because the thinner metal absorbs the impact of a crash better.
As for the thinner metal it is true that both Domestic and Foreign makes have thinned out the steel to save on cost but IMO the "Foreign" (Except Toyota IMO) do a better job at coating the steel and painting it to stand up to rust than the Domestic seem to.
Up here in our country where they like to salt even if it looks like its going to snow you see a ton of domestics rusting out withing the first couple years of ownership whereas foreign seem to take about 5-7 years to achieve the same results.
I'm not picking on Domestics I'm just noticing this is all...
+1. Really notice it here on the east coast where we're surrounded by ocean and you can smell the salt in the air. In the spring the roads are white with it.
May be that, in catering to more markets than the big 3, and in being the leader for decades in using smaller engines and emphasizing consequent reduction in size and weight, that they had more incentive and experience in constructing thinned out steel bodies that stand up over time.
Maybe the result of a different focus. Most places outside North America, gas is ridiculously expensive and has been that way for longer than our more recent price increases. So where the big 3 never entirely shed their emphasis on building bigger and/or faster, the imports have always focused instead on efficiency.
There are probably other factors at play here too. But the fact that Honda and Toyota are the two biggest sellers in Canada isn't due to marketing brilliance, price, or proximity. And not far behind them are newer players like Hyundai and Kia.
The big 3 still seem the biggest players in the pickup market. But that's about it. At least here.
-Spyder
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Spyder that is echoed in Ontario as well...
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2026
Steviec I disagree about imports standing up to rust better, having grown up in Upstate NY and lived in HI. I see a heck of a lot more rusty late model Hondas and Toyotas than I do from the Big three.
Want to see how a car stands up to salt and heat? Bring it to Hi. Living in a Navy town you see a lot of cars come back from there and you can tell the imports that spent time there before you can tell the car from the big 3 that spent time there.
Want to see how a car stands up to salt and heat? Bring it to Hi. Living in a Navy town you see a lot of cars come back from there and you can tell the imports that spent time there before you can tell the car from the big 3 that spent time there.
I excluded Toyota from my list above. Your Honda observation has me puzzled though because they seem to be holding up as well as other imports.
- Status
