GL search....

[matthew]

Hello, I saw the GL test and was impressed with the Schaeffer's. Right now I have fairly fresh Amsoil in the diff's and would like to know if I should add anything to the Amsoil for further performance and protection, as in keeping it from spinning away from the gears as illustrated in the test.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/gearoiltest.htm
I have an '86 4runner with open diff's and frequently haul weight up and down alot if hills.
Aside from that, I just finished a cleaning cycle in the m/t with ARX and would like to go with Schaeffer's or RL. I know Bob on this site is a Schaeffer's dealer, but I'd like to get it locally if possible to avoid shipping hassles and costs. UPS doesn't deliver where I live here in the boonies. And RL is $14/qt at the only place that can get it around here. There is a Schaeffer's dealer in Ft. Smith,AR., but can't find info on contacting him/her. Could anyone point me to directory info. on Schaeffer's dealers? Having trouble finding that.
Additionally, the Hayes manual specifies a hypoid GL5 80w90 in the diff's. Could anyone tell me what this means by hypoid? Is this different from what I use in the m/t? When I bought Amsoil, I used the same GL in both.

 

[MolaKule]

Try searching the site, especially the Interesting Articles thread in Science and Technology of Lubricating Oils and Additives such as:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000463

Also, there are at least two articles on gear lubes down there as well.

Send a PM to member "salesrep" who is a Schaeffer's dealer or go to:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000035

 

[unDummy]

I prefer the owners manual's or FSM over Haynes. I've seen incorrect specs/requirements in several Haynes manual. If you don't have one, check with some of the online Toyota forums for info.

I also don't see the need to add anything to gearoils.

I wasn't impressed with the "water" test. Most moisture should evaporate through the vent during normal use. Excessive water entry needs to be dealt with new seals or higher mounted vent tubes.

 

[matthew]

Thanks all! Found nearby Schaffer's dealer.
I was impressed with the eggbeater test myself.

 

[MolaKule]

The eggbeater test simply showed that the GL had some tackifier in it, as do amost modern gear lubes.

 

[Pablo]

First of all you must know that Bob's test is simply old, with old marine lube, and the test is run by Bob. Who was bob working for when he ran the test? Yes, Schaefer's.

What exactly is wrong with your Amsoil? Have you run a UOA? I don't mind if you want to try Redline, Specialized, or Schaefer's, but please don't imply there is something "wrong" with Amsoil gear lubes.

 

[MolaKule]

Take an eggbeater and run the same test with Specialized Formulation's, Amsoil, Schaeffers, Coastal, whatever and I think you will see all these lubes do the same thing.

BTW, while tack has it's place in some lubes, tack also has the disadvantage of increasing the oil's surface tension.

What you want is NOT high surface tension, but you want spreading and creep using a good surfactant.

 

[matthew]

Molakule, I wan't aware of that. I apparently misunderstood what the test was showing. So, Amsoil lubes have the tackifier then? Does M1?

Pablo, Nothing is wrong with the Amsoil as far as I know, which is not much as far as oils are concerned. This is all very new info to me. So, I didn't mean to imply anything. I am at a gullible stage with all of this and assumed the test was showing a superiority of a certain lube. That's all. As far as UOA's, that's something I haven't gotten into at this point. I was just looking for a good lube that might be a bit cheaper and easier to get when I found the test on this site. The more I started reading about oils the more confused I got and the can of worms got bigger. No harm intended by any statements. I believe synths are better than conventional oils in alot of ways, and I've not any complaints with Amsoil. My 4runners ran great on them. It just became rather inconvenient and unfeisable(sp?) to warrant getting them anymore. So, I have just been exploring my options within the limited time frame I have and the limited availability of choices in my local area. Sorry to offend. Oh, and thanks for your consent.

 

[Pablo]

No offense. Fair enough!

I can tell you one thing: Hang around here and you will be hooked - kind of a good thing if you have no other life

 

[matthew]

Fair 'Nuff!
Dude, I've got over a hundred animals my wife and I take of. A registered animal sanctuary/humane society with the state of Arkansas. Not to mention a part time job at health and nutrition store on the weekend. Alot to do!!! Not enough daylight to do it all!!!! Our main hauling vehicle's motor bit the dust after a bad rebuild so we're down to using my little 4banger '86 to do the job of the 6cylinder. So, being supported mainly by donations anything we can do to protect the equipment for max life at a reasonable cost is important, just not my life!!

Kudos to the folk who are sincere enough to provide folk like us with informed choices with no vested interest in what we buy, hopefully! Been there a million times, and haven't we all?
At any rate....
Molekule, this is what you are referring to?

The surfactant that Schaeffer's uses which causes the "climbing in gear oils and in engine oils,"

1. decreases the surface tension of the oil (reduces foaming),
2. increases "wetting" of the metal surfaces so that additives and lubricant can coat the parts, and
3. is also an anti-oxidant
4. a lubrucant in itself.
5. a detergent.

The word surfactant is a contraction of sorts for "surface active agent" which reacts with the surface in a predictable manner to affect an advantage to the base oil.

So, is what you're saying most everyone has this? And I could go to O'Reilly or wherever and get some M1 and it will just as good as Schaeffer's, Amsoil, RL, etc. in respect to climbing of oil and at the same low surface tension. If that's the case, I can drive twenty miles (M1)instead of forty (to get Amsoil gear lube, doesn't stock 20W50 MO

) or via mail/special order(RL,Schaeffer's) to get the same level of performance in a gear oil. That would save me money on gas or shipping costs or minumum order costs.
If you wouldn't mind giving some advice...
In regards to a proper weight to use in the rear diff for towing, should I be using a 75w140 or would 75w or 80w90 be sufficient? Pablo, anyone?

 

[Pablo]

75W-90 of any brand you list will be fine.

 

[matthew]

Gracias!!!!!!!!!

 

[MolaKule]

quote:

---

So, is what you're saying most everyone has this?

---

Yes. Most oils have a bit of tack for cling but also has surfactants so the oil and additive can creep.

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

Leave what you have in the differentials. If you get nervous, pull a sample in about 50,000 miles and have it lab tested.

Over the road trucks have run it more than 10 times longer and found it still suitable for continued use.

 

[matthew]

Thanks you all, will do.