I'll be getting the rear main seal of my Pathfinder replaced at AAMCO on Monday, probably. Engine oil and coolant will need to be drained according to the service manual. Not knowing what coolant they will use, should I request that they use Nissan OEM coolant (which is what's currently in the system)? I did a drain & fill of the radiator February 27th, 2011 with OEM coolant and distilled water (~2 gal worth - system capacity is 2.43 gal), so most of the coolant is fresh. Should I supply them copies of the applicable pages of the service manual (probably not, considering they have Alldata)? I assume they will use an OEM seal. Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Getting RMS replaced - anything to tell shop?
- Thread starter Towncivilian
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Odd that the FSM calls for draining coolant. Is it to dip the engine lower for better access? Heater core hose in the way?
They will probably spill coolant only if needed and catch it and dump it back in.
A seal is a seal. The guys are pros, and this is their bread and butter. I wouldn't insult them by shoving instructions in their faces, but you could leave the manual on the passenger floorboard as a kind of hint.
They will probably spill coolant only if needed and catch it and dump it back in.
A seal is a seal. The guys are pros, and this is their bread and butter. I wouldn't insult them by shoving instructions in their faces, but you could leave the manual on the passenger floorboard as a kind of hint.
Leave any info you have on the driver side floorboard.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Odd that the FSM calls for draining coolant. Is it to dip the engine lower for better access? Heater core hose in the way?
They will probably spill coolant only if needed and catch it and dump it back in.
A seal is a seal. The guys are pros, and this is their bread and butter. I wouldn't insult them by shoving instructions in their faces, but you could leave the manual on the passenger floorboard as a kind of hint.
The FSM says to drain engine coolant via radiator drain plug. The engine must be hoisted upwards according to the FSM, perhaps this is why.
I suppose I'll leave the relevant pages (oil pan removal/installation, auto trans removal/installation) on the passenger or driver seat? That won't ensure they'll notice it, though. Of course, they might not even need it. Don't know what to do about that.
Odd that the FSM calls for draining coolant. Is it to dip the engine lower for better access? Heater core hose in the way?
They will probably spill coolant only if needed and catch it and dump it back in.
A seal is a seal. The guys are pros, and this is their bread and butter. I wouldn't insult them by shoving instructions in their faces, but you could leave the manual on the passenger floorboard as a kind of hint.
The FSM says to drain engine coolant via radiator drain plug. The engine must be hoisted upwards according to the FSM, perhaps this is why.
I suppose I'll leave the relevant pages (oil pan removal/installation, auto trans removal/installation) on the passenger or driver seat? That won't ensure they'll notice it, though. Of course, they might not even need it. Don't know what to do about that.
I guess I could purchase a gallon of OEM coolant and leave it on the passenger seat and write "full strength" on it with sharpie. I could go so far as to do the same with oil, but I'll just run whatever they provide for 3,750 miles and change it out. Shame that this M1 fill will only be about 1800 miles, though.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why at AAMCO?
Nissan wanted $1800 for some reason. Other shops quoted around $1000 (including AAMCO). Why do you ask, is there something unfavorable about AAMCO in general? The one locally seems to be run well and the staff is friendly.
why at AAMCO?
Nissan wanted $1800 for some reason. Other shops quoted around $1000 (including AAMCO). Why do you ask, is there something unfavorable about AAMCO in general? The one locally seems to be run well and the staff is friendly.
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why at AAMCO?
Nissan wanted $1800 for some reason. Other shops quoted around $1000 (including AAMCO). Why do you ask, is there something unfavorable about AAMCO in general? The one locally seems to be run well and the staff is friendly.
I was going to ask you the same thing. Just seems a good indy shop would be better suited for the job. jmo Then again,they have lots of experience pulling transmissions, so you should be fine.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why at AAMCO?
Nissan wanted $1800 for some reason. Other shops quoted around $1000 (including AAMCO). Why do you ask, is there something unfavorable about AAMCO in general? The one locally seems to be run well and the staff is friendly.
I was going to ask you the same thing. Just seems a good indy shop would be better suited for the job. jmo Then again,they have lots of experience pulling transmissions, so you should be fine.
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I called AAMCO 20 minutes ago and the guy said that the coolant shouldn't need to be replaced. I also told him that this is the second time the RMS is leaking (first was at 1,720 miles and fixed by Nissan) and to inspect the mating surfaces before installing the new seal.
Since I have a hardly-used M1 oil filter on right now, I bought a SuperTech ST7317 and will spin that on before dropping the car off tomorrow.
Since I have a hardly-used M1 oil filter on right now, I bought a SuperTech ST7317 and will spin that on before dropping the car off tomorrow.
I just had the rear main seal replaced by AAMCO for $1,169.30. This seal was in use for 126,106 miles exactly. This is the second RMS that has been in my Pathfinder. The first was replaced at 1,720 miles by a Nissan dealership under warranty. This seal then leaked somewhere between 90k and 105k miles.
Pictures of the damaged side of the seal:
And the undamaged side:
It is obvious that no high-mileage or thicker oil would have ever stopped this seal from leaking. Slow it? Quite a possibility, but who knows. AAMCO claimed to have found no defects on the mating surfaces of the seal, but they did find two missing bolts on the bellhousing and replaced those free of charge.
The seal was replaced with a Fel-Pro BS 40631. I have read that Fel-Pro makes high quality gaskets/seals and try their best to remove OE defects and try to improve the design. I did not see this seal, but if I were really curious I could purchase one for $35, photograph it, post pictures here, and then return the seal. The job took about 6 hours to complete, but the shop kept the PF overnight to ensure there were no issues. I certainly hope this third RMS will not leak for another 100k at least.
The shop did not lose any fluids other than a very small amount of automatic transmission fluid when disconnecting the transmission cooler lines. I retained my engine oil and filter (as they were recently changed within the past 2000 miles) and all engine coolant. The work seems to be satisfactorily performed, and I am happy with the shop. I have a 90-day warranty on parts and labor. I'll likely be a return customer if the need arises. I will check tomorrow to ensure there are no more oil drips around the bellhousing.
Pictures of the damaged side of the seal:
And the undamaged side:
It is obvious that no high-mileage or thicker oil would have ever stopped this seal from leaking. Slow it? Quite a possibility, but who knows. AAMCO claimed to have found no defects on the mating surfaces of the seal, but they did find two missing bolts on the bellhousing and replaced those free of charge.
The seal was replaced with a Fel-Pro BS 40631. I have read that Fel-Pro makes high quality gaskets/seals and try their best to remove OE defects and try to improve the design. I did not see this seal, but if I were really curious I could purchase one for $35, photograph it, post pictures here, and then return the seal. The job took about 6 hours to complete, but the shop kept the PF overnight to ensure there were no issues. I certainly hope this third RMS will not leak for another 100k at least.
The shop did not lose any fluids other than a very small amount of automatic transmission fluid when disconnecting the transmission cooler lines. I retained my engine oil and filter (as they were recently changed within the past 2000 miles) and all engine coolant. The work seems to be satisfactorily performed, and I am happy with the shop. I have a 90-day warranty on parts and labor. I'll likely be a return customer if the need arises. I will check tomorrow to ensure there are no more oil drips around the bellhousing.
There was a small amount of oil at the weephole of the bellhousing, I wiped it off before driving and it reappeared today. I don't know much oil seeped out, I didn't have a sheet of cardboard under it. What should my course of action be?
The oil is still the M1 HM 10W-40, but the oil filter is the SuperTech ST7317. I can spin on the M1 EP filter back on, should I? As I said above, this oil & the M1 filter has less than 2000 miles on it so far.
I will be changing the PCV valve within the next few weeks for the $50ish it costs in four gaskets and the valve itself.
The oil is still the M1 HM 10W-40, but the oil filter is the SuperTech ST7317. I can spin on the M1 EP filter back on, should I? As I said above, this oil & the M1 filter has less than 2000 miles on it so far.
I will be changing the PCV valve within the next few weeks for the $50ish it costs in four gaskets and the valve itself.
Alright, well, it's still leaking. I brought it to AAMCO the other day and they checked, but couldn't find any leakage, then I brought it in again today and there was more oil around the weep hole. The area was cleaned off again, but I'll continue watching it. I'll be taking it to AAMCO on Monday morning. Should I be present while they do the work again? It was only 6 or so hours the first time, I think I can stomach that.
I will be changing the PCV valve on Saturday (yay 4 hours of work and $69 for parts, gaskets, and a grommet).
I will be changing the PCV valve on Saturday (yay 4 hours of work and $69 for parts, gaskets, and a grommet).
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am not sure if you provided the rationale for spending $1200 for changing it in the first place. I am really curious.
- Vikas
It was leaking.
I am not sure if you provided the rationale for spending $1200 for changing it in the first place. I am really curious.
- Vikas
It was leaking.
With the seal ripped like that I would suspect the mating surfaces are far from perfect, so any new seal is going to leak in short order.
That's the problem with replacing rear main seals it doesn't always work. Unless they are pouring oil your better off leaving them alone.
That's the problem with replacing rear main seals it doesn't always work. Unless they are pouring oil your better off leaving them alone.
Well, it was still leaking out the weep hole. I dropped it off at AAMCO and they replaced the RMS again with a Nissan part this time, and they also concluded that my aluminum oil pan gasket is leaking so that's another $448 + tax down the drain to replace - they're using an OEM gasket for that too. I'll be picking it up again tomorrow.
I replaced the PCV valve on Saturday, too.
I replaced the PCV valve on Saturday, too.
Good God, I could have redone the entire motor for 1600 bucks!
Another stealership story.
Another stealership story.
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