getting new RDX

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Good morning everyone!! I just signed on a new Acura RDX 3 year lease. I drive 10,000 miles a year half around town and half to daughter one hour away by highway. engine seems to be a small 2 liter with direct injection and variable valve timing.. My friend loves his RDX, and if I like it I may buy it at 3 years will have 30,000 miles. I will read owners manual when I get it.
dumb questions:
1. when to change the oil first time? I hear that Honda may recommend not changing before 5000 miles. i further read that the "break in oil" is the same, but molybdenum is added to various parts of the engine. they may want that to stay in 5,000 miles
2. when, if ever, would I change the transmission fluid. I am pretty sure my car will be all wheel drive.
3. what to do to make this car last forever, I am retired.

thank you and have a great day! I am open to all ideas. I hate this virus!!

best,

Bob
 
The RDX is packing a direct-injected 16-Valve, 2.0-Liter DOHC VTEC® turbocharged power plant. There is 272 horsepower 86 and 280 lb. -ft. of torque 87, which means quick acceleration and sharper throttle response. I am no mechanic, but I feel that direct inject and turbo are a big strain on the oil in such a small engine making 270 horsepower. bob
 
If it was my car, I would change the oil every 5,000 miles.
I would use SP cert ... PP or M1, probably calls for 0W-20.
 
Congrats.

If it is a lease just follow the Oil Life Monitor(OLM). It reads how the engine is driven and conditions based on its own operatiing parameters. My previous MDX would sometimes require based on OLM 4k oil changes in the winter of short trips but stretch to 8k in summer on highway miles.

I will indicated service A1or B1 initially meaning change oil (1). They require synthetic to take up the "stress" of all that.There are many 2.0 engines out there now with around or more HP. Becoming the norm. Service codes: https://www.acuraofboston.com/acura-service-codes.htm
 
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Follow the maintenance minder on the car - it will tell you what services are due and when.

Its also in the manual.

Dont second guess it, dont over think it.

My understanding from the honda specific forums, my own MM, and the dealer - are that honda does not add moly, but the factory fill (FF) is rich in moly from the assembly lube used.

In the case of the J35 they want the FF in for the full duration the MM calls for and my dealer told me they would not change the oil unless if was at 20% remaining or less.

Thats a great little SUV congrats.

UD
 
thank you! I WILL read the manual cover to cover when I get it.

next dumb question:

since my car is all wheel drive, is there "something" in addition to the transmission fluid to change? "transfer case" whatever that is. I understand steering fluid, brake fluid, trans. fluid, but NOT differential or transfer case fluid. do I change those? when?

I have done radiator, brake, steering and trans. fluid on all my cars.

whether or not I buy this car in 3 years, I will take great care of it. I have heard some say transmission fluid at 30,000 and some say never. I will read the manual

thanks very much to all.

Bob
 
The RDX is packing a direct-injected 16-Valve, 2.0-Liter DOHC VTEC® turbocharged power plant. There is 272 horsepower 86 and 280 lb. -ft. of torque 87, which means quick acceleration and sharper throttle response. I am no mechanic, but I feel that direct inject and turbo are a big strain on the oil in such a small engine making 270 horsepower. bob
I have a 2019 CX5 GT-R. 2.5L, 250hp/310tq. DI/Turbo. I have not noticed any issues with my oil. Just run a good one, like Mobil 1 EP that has excellent numbers. I change mine every 5K miles. I would follow Honda's instructions on the first oil change, however, as well as for the transmission.
 
thank you! I WILL read the manual cover to cover when I get it.

next dumb question:

since my car is all wheel drive, is there "something" in addition to the transmission fluid to change? "transfer case" whatever that is. I understand steering fluid, brake fluid, trans. fluid, but NOT differential or transfer case fluid. do I change those? when?

I have done radiator, brake, steering and trans. fluid on all my cars.

whether or not I buy this car in 3 years, I will take great care of it. I have heard some say transmission fluid at 30,000 and some say never. I will read the manual

thanks very much to all.

Bob
I'd follow the manual. On the CX5 forum, the debates rage so hard on transmission fluid. I never changed it in any of my CX5's, the last one I t raded in at 106K miles, and it was shifting 100% fine. I'm a "follow the manual" type when it comes to technical things like this.
 
I think the new A-Spec's look really sharp, but with Acura dropping the 2021 TLX with a turbo 6 355/354, I'd be sorely tempted to hold off on buying for a year or two, to see if that makes it into the new A-Spec. If so...man I'd kick myself like a 2010 Mustang GT owner who didn't wait for 2011, lol! By the time your lease is up, you'll know, though. Those RDX's really are sharp looking in A-spec trim. The one CUV that I kinda waffle on when I wonder if I "bought the right one".
 
thank you! I WILL read the manual cover to cover when I get it.

next dumb question:

since my car is all wheel drive, is there "something" in addition to the transmission fluid to change? "transfer case" whatever that is. I understand steering fluid, brake fluid, trans. fluid, but NOT differential or transfer case fluid. do I change those? when?

I have done radiator, brake, steering and trans. fluid on all my cars.

whether or not I buy this car in 3 years, I will take great care of it. I have heard some say transmission fluid at 30,000 and some say never. I will read the manual

thanks very much to all.

Bob

Yes, you'll have rear differential fluid and transfer case fluid.

These maintenance intervals are also in the maintenance minder.
The trans fluid will come up in the MM around 32-35K.
Change it then, sure you can change it prior if it makes you sleep better at night.

The best place Ive found to order honda/ Acura oem fluids is Barnardi auto parts.
Their online system helps you get the right fluid, and they are competitively priced.


https://acura.bernardiparts.com/def...ct=11&door=4&grade=155&transmission=10&area=1

UD
 
I'd also advise you to join an brand or model forum dedicated to your new ride.

I found the ridgeline forum to be very helpful in learning about my first new Honda auto product.

There are a few things I actually needed the manual and or a forum to help me figure out that simply weren't intuitive - like auto dimming headlight initiation.

I was not very trusting of its (or any) OLM or that the design of the DI wouldn't give me problems and I was able to get factory information white papers that put me at ease.

At the same time there is still lots of frontier gibberish to wade through on your way to get through to real useful information.

UD
 
UD, I also buy all of my stuff (fluids and parts) from Bernardi. Great customer service and decent prices even with shipping.

I dont impress easily, but am by these guys. They know Honda/Acura product really well.

I was surprised how hard it was to get certain fluids on amazon and Ive never been comfy putting generics into transmissions and differentials.

I was also mislead by the inter web about what the proper fluid for the diff was- and Bernardi got it right.
 
If SH-AWD is same as my Old 07 MDX it’s a drain and bolt affair to replace the $50 fluid. My honest mechanic charged 15 mins labor to do it during an oil change mid winter. I only DIY when it’s 70f out :).
 
NAPA sells good low cost mechanical torque wrenches at a decent price. I bought an Evercraft 1/2 drive torque wrench from my local NAPA. They had to order it. They got it in the next day. And I store that with a short extension and a 19 mm six point socket wrapped up in a small carpet with both ends of the carpet tied shut with small ropes around it, stored beside the full diameter spare tire, so I can set the torque to 80 Lb/Ft when tightening lug-nuts.

Modern vehicles are prone to warping the brake disk if you over-tighten, (and or un-even tighten) the lug nuts. Also with them tightened to the proper torque you know they will not come off on there own and also will be removable if you ever get a flat. I also have a 4 way tire iron wrapped up in another small carpet on-top of the spare tire. The 3/4 inch six point socket on a 4 way is usable to loosen the 19 mm lug nuts. There is only 2/1000 of an inch difference between 3/4 inch and 19 mm. 19 mm = 0.748 inches, so the 3/4 six point of a 4 way that is 2/1000 of an inch larger will work just fine.

It is smart to wrap the torque wrench and 4 way in old small throw rugs because it provides protection to the parts, stops them from nicking up the trunk and spare, and if it is muddy when you have to change a tire you can use the carpet to give you some decent area to kneel or stand on.

You should never use a torque wrench to loosen a nut. That is why I have a 4 way. I never trust the cheap L tire iron that is given with the car for loosing lug-nuts.

And always store torque wrenches set to 0 so there is no tension on the spring. Storing it at a setting above minimum puts tension on the spring and could possible cause it to go out of calibration. If you know how to read a micrometer screw gauge you should have no problem setting a mechanical torque wrench. If you do not know how to read a micrometer screw gauge look on YouTube to see how to do it.

I have 2 free oil changes for the 2016 CR-V I bought in February 2020, but after that I will probably do my own fluid changes (if the weather is anywhere near decent when it needs done). I will buy 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch drive torque wrenches from NAPA before I do any of that work. There are YouTube videos on how to do the work and they show the proper torque.

Also I bought the Haynes Repair Manual for my Honda from Amazon.

You have to remember most bolts for stuff like fluid and other things on these vehicles is threaded into an aluminum part and aluminum strips very easy if you over-torque the bolt threaded into it. You should have new crush washers and know the torque you will be tightening the drain bolt to before doing any fluid change on these vehicles.

The lower cost mechanical torque wrench is much better several years down the line compared to the expensive fancy electronic one when the battery on the electronic one is dead when you go to use it.

Watch the YouTube videos before doing a job. There are some good tips on those videos. Watch more than one for each job. Sometimes one video will have a tip that others do not have.

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Uncle Dave and artbuc, thanks for the info about using Bernardi auto parts to source Honda fluids, filters, and other Honda parts. I was wondering about the possibility of getting counterfeit fluids from Amazon?
 
Uncle Dave and artbuc, thanks for the info about using Bernardi auto parts to source Honda fluids, filters, and other Honda parts. I was wondering about the possibility of getting counterfeit fluids from Amazon?

Lots of good stuff at NAPA including their 0w-20 - which is basically Valvoline. Napa filters are basically Wix.

I think the chance of counterfeit fluids is low, but possible.

There is a high chance that the delivery schedule will change after you commit to the purchase especially with things like Dual pump II fluid (differential fluid for Honda AWD) which aren't stock items in very many places.

It happens often that at order entry its "in stock" then after you commit, the order is mysteriously delayed.

I typically keep enough on my shelf for every fluid service, but if you are a just in time order guy this can really hose you if you plan a service just prior to a trip. Bernardi hasn't played any games with me. So far when they say they have it, they have it.


UD
 
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