Can you mail order some line instead of driving it?
Getting mixed advice about trans temps
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Nope. I'm out in the woods right now. Best I could do right now is maybe turn it on it's side, if the hose barbs don't hit the support bars, and zip tie it in place, temporarily. I might have enough scrap hose and a 5/16 barb union to splice in for the output up top to reach that way.
You need to know which direction it pumps. It has to pump up if on its side.
That's easy to know from the hard cooler lines where they hook up to soft lines. The upper one is the trans out, lower is trans in.
I might have enough scrap hose and fittings. I have a bunch of ball valves with 3/8" barbs on both sides to use to hook up multiple pieces of hose to get it long enough to reach. I can run tape around the hose and handle to keep them forced open to avoid accidental closure of the valves.
The issue is doing that kind of messy work in this campground. I suppose I could go do it over in the paved parking lot on the day I'm leaving, so it's only about a 500ft drive to go before I flip the cooler, but still. The camp host might get pissy if they see me with a tarp on the ground, a drain pan out, taking off the grill and unhooking hoses with fluid running out of them. But i guess the worst they can do is tell me to leave and ban me forever at that point. They'd have to wait for me to finish and leave.
It's that or make the 11 mile drive and just hope it's not causing (more?) damage. I can't undo the last 100 miles and it's pretty flat from here to the store, so, may just have to chance it. I'll just have to wait an hour or two for things to cool off is all, but that's fine.
I'm pretty sure you haven't hurt anything in this short amount of time.
It got up to somewhere around 280-300 (dunno exactly) for maybe 5-10 minutes on the hot line the other day. Actually I think it got that got that hot in the one lane construction zone, cooled down a little then got hot again going up a steep hill at low speed (25-30ish) after having to start off from a complete stop and stop and go leading up to it. Then it was just 2-3 minutes, if that. It felt like forever though. No place to stop so I had no choice.
Mostly it stayed at 220 max in stop and go or on curvey back roads with frequent braking and accelerating.
Out on the interstate, it mostly stayed cooler (180-200ish) except for a couple hills where it got up to 220ish or a bit higher. Keeping in mind that's the uncooled line coming out of the trans.
I reckon the 11 miles will be fine. I'll just baby the throttle so maybe getting up to speed won't generate as much heat. It's going to be cooler next Thursday too (65F or so) when I leave, so that may help a little. It was 75ish the other day.
I'll have about 50-60 miles after i flip the cooler to see if temps are any lower, or at least drop faster, before the cargo trailer and RV gets loaded up with lots more cargo from the storage unit.
If the temp still doesn't look good in stop and go, I may just go ahead and flush the radiator cooler myself and tie it in, transmission warranty be ****ed, if he decides to be that way about it. Once I'm on my way in a few weeks, I won't really have much warranty recourse anyway, unless he pays another shop to cover repairs under his warranty. But since he didn't R&R, I'd be on the hook for that if it's not something in the valve body or elsewhere that can be reached without pulling it.
And if there's damage, well, maybe it'll still last a good many years, just not as long as it should.
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Well, I got it flipped here at the campground. I had enough scrap hose and a way to do one splice on each line to extend the existing hoses. I laid out a tarp and made sure it was under the hoses/lines and used a drain pan, so nothing spilled on the ground. I saw the camp host out making her rounds on foot this morning. She mentioned she was doing it before the rain, so I figured she wouldn't be out walking around so I went ahead and did it. Other campers walked by, but no one said anything to me about it and the camp host didn't come rushing over to complain, so I guess I "got away with it".
The hot line has a straight barb union (kind of hiding and hard to reach) and return has a ball valve for a union, because it's all I had to fit the line. But I taped open the valve with electrical tape and also put a zip tie around it, so it can't possibly close itself. I have the valve there up high, where I can easily reach it by taking off the grill. I think I'll put the Magnefine filter there when I get my hands on it in a couple weeks. That's the return line, after all, which is where I want the filter. There's unused bolt holes in the support bracket where I can run zip ties through to secure it in place, so it doesn't bang against the condenser and grill. I might go ahead and replace the spliced hot line hose with a single piece of hose, so there's two less possible failure points (two hose clamps).
That's how much fluid came out of the cooler/steel lines from the trans. Seems like not a lot? Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 a quart at most. It only got a few tiny drops of rain while I carried it from under the front end to set it inside my cargo trailer for the pic, and the pan was dry and fairly clean, so that's all ATF. But of course, it's gonna get dumped in an oil jug and fresh will be put in the trans.
I started up the engine and idled it for about 5 minutes. Before, it didn't seem to take long for the reading to up to roughly 130F. Today, it's about 10F degrees cooler out (and drizzling rain), and it barely got a hair over 100F at idle. So, I'm guessing it should work much better now, if that's any indication. I still won't be driving any until next Thursday, so I'll report back about driving temps that day sometime.
The hot line has a straight barb union (kind of hiding and hard to reach) and return has a ball valve for a union, because it's all I had to fit the line. But I taped open the valve with electrical tape and also put a zip tie around it, so it can't possibly close itself. I have the valve there up high, where I can easily reach it by taking off the grill. I think I'll put the Magnefine filter there when I get my hands on it in a couple weeks. That's the return line, after all, which is where I want the filter. There's unused bolt holes in the support bracket where I can run zip ties through to secure it in place, so it doesn't bang against the condenser and grill. I might go ahead and replace the spliced hot line hose with a single piece of hose, so there's two less possible failure points (two hose clamps).
That's how much fluid came out of the cooler/steel lines from the trans. Seems like not a lot? Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 a quart at most. It only got a few tiny drops of rain while I carried it from under the front end to set it inside my cargo trailer for the pic, and the pan was dry and fairly clean, so that's all ATF. But of course, it's gonna get dumped in an oil jug and fresh will be put in the trans.
I started up the engine and idled it for about 5 minutes. Before, it didn't seem to take long for the reading to up to roughly 130F. Today, it's about 10F degrees cooler out (and drizzling rain), and it barely got a hair over 100F at idle. So, I'm guessing it should work much better now, if that's any indication. I still won't be driving any until next Thursday, so I'll report back about driving temps that day sometime.
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That looks like a "Long Enterprises" (???) stacked plate furnace brazed (semi) thermostatically controlled aerial ATF cooler. They have a restriction orifice, whereby internal bypass of the cooling passages occurs right from cold start... 'til atf viscosity goes down. That's what they expound-on... not necessarily the full truth per se, but I imagine some of that occurs.
No, it's a Hayden HD cool #779. It doesn't have any internal bypass, they'd be advertising that feature and charging more if it did.
HD Cool
www.haydenauto.com
The 600 series is what has that: https://www.haydenauto.com/media/5479/bypass-transmission-oil-cooler_flyer.pdf
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I got part of that right, then. Thermal bypass 
; stacked plate 
; (likely) furnace brazed ... I've got my MFRS mixed up... or maybe Hayden bought Long...
; stacked plate ; (likely) furnace brazed ... I've got my MFRS mixed up... or maybe Hayden bought Long...I got part of that right, then. Thermal bypass
SMP owns Hayden and tons of other brand names.
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Yeah, that trans shop owner is either ignorant or malicious, dunno which.
I used a can of Kooler Kleen, after it was flushed with brake cleaner before. It was coming out clear from the start. I blew air, 1/2 KK one way, 1/2 KK the other way, air the other way.
The trans temp on he hot side is WAY cooler now. It never reached 220 even under hard acceleration. Before it was getting 220-300'ish in stop and go, now it's 180'ish.
The fluid still looks red but I think I may just replace it all, since the pan is still getting dropped next week and a deep pan getting installed. The torque converter has a drain. What a waste of money on fluid.
I just hope he didnt make me ruin the seals/clutches in the trans because of his refusal to flush the rad cooler and his insistence that 300*F was fine for the hot side. The crappy way he was being, I doubt he'd agree to go through it any to be sure. And I can't say I trust him at all either not to further sabotage it.
Oh and it slipped out of park on a steep hill the other day while idling (I stepped out to enter a gate code), running down the hill and into a 5 lane road, jack knifing my trailer into the back of my RV, busting up the rear corner of my RV and the whole front of the box on my trailer. I do have insurance but still. So yeah, I have that crap to deal with now too. Thank goodness the road was totally clear, so no one else was involved in the wreck. And thankfully my dog wasn't injured, and nothing inside the trailer was damaged besides a couple of plastic totes. I'm having to fix the RV before insurance pays out because it busted my grey water tank ($120'sh with probes, grommet, etc) and a $30 RV specific pipe piece so now I can't take a shower in here until next week, once I replace the tank. I ended up paying $100/night for 3 nights in a Motel 6 (since they allow my dog at no extra charge) so I was able to deal with storage over 4 days (the wreck happened day 1, before I decided to go to the motel) and shower/rest well. 2020 as bad for a lot of people? 2022 is definitely my bad year.
On the plus side, The trailer frame didn't get busted up, and I have the trailer rigged up with a ratchet strap to keep the box lined up right for now, and the RV is drivable, so there's that at least. It did mess up the handle on the A-frame jack, but that's only about $40 to replace, if I can't get it to bend back.
I used a can of Kooler Kleen, after it was flushed with brake cleaner before. It was coming out clear from the start. I blew air, 1/2 KK one way, 1/2 KK the other way, air the other way.
The trans temp on he hot side is WAY cooler now. It never reached 220 even under hard acceleration. Before it was getting 220-300'ish in stop and go, now it's 180'ish.
The fluid still looks red but I think I may just replace it all, since the pan is still getting dropped next week and a deep pan getting installed. The torque converter has a drain. What a waste of money on fluid.
I just hope he didnt make me ruin the seals/clutches in the trans because of his refusal to flush the rad cooler and his insistence that 300*F was fine for the hot side. The crappy way he was being, I doubt he'd agree to go through it any to be sure. And I can't say I trust him at all either not to further sabotage it.
Oh and it slipped out of park on a steep hill the other day while idling (I stepped out to enter a gate code), running down the hill and into a 5 lane road, jack knifing my trailer into the back of my RV, busting up the rear corner of my RV and the whole front of the box on my trailer. I do have insurance but still. So yeah, I have that crap to deal with now too. Thank goodness the road was totally clear, so no one else was involved in the wreck. And thankfully my dog wasn't injured, and nothing inside the trailer was damaged besides a couple of plastic totes. I'm having to fix the RV before insurance pays out because it busted my grey water tank ($120'sh with probes, grommet, etc) and a $30 RV specific pipe piece so now I can't take a shower in here until next week, once I replace the tank. I ended up paying $100/night for 3 nights in a Motel 6 (since they allow my dog at no extra charge) so I was able to deal with storage over 4 days (the wreck happened day 1, before I decided to go to the motel) and shower/rest well. 2020 as bad for a lot of people? 2022 is definitely my bad year.
On the plus side, The trailer frame didn't get busted up, and I have the trailer rigged up with a ratchet strap to keep the box lined up right for now, and the RV is drivable, so there's that at least. It did mess up the handle on the A-frame jack, but that's only about $40 to replace, if I can't get it to bend back.
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Oh, that sucks! Sorry to hear that.
