Getting away from synthetics

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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cp3
What do you consider a very cold climate?


certainly not what you guys get,thats for sure.
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The guy lives in Ontario, Canada and you imply that he wouldn't benefit from the better cold starting characteristics of synthetic oil?

What did I miss?


you need to read it again.you misinterpreted what i replied.the person in florida doesnt get the cold temps. people in ontario get.thats what i meant.
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Well...OK then. The part that had me confused is that you quoted the guy who lives in Canada, hope you can see my confusion.

Anyway, it's all good
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Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: cp3
What do you consider a very cold climate?


certainly not what you guys get,thats for sure.
grin2.gif



The guy lives in Ontario, Canada and you imply that he wouldn't benefit from the better cold starting characteristics of synthetic oil?

What did I miss?


you need to read it again.you misinterpreted what i replied.the person in florida doesnt get the cold temps. people in ontario get.thats what i meant.
smirk2.gif



Well...OK then. The part that had me confused is that you quoted the guy who lives in Canada, hope you can see my confusion.

Anyway, it's all good
thumbsup2.gif



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Originally Posted By: c3po
The way you drive a car is more likely to cause sludge than the type of oil, an example being if you drove the car 2 miles to work in the morning and then in the evening you drove 2 miles back home.

When you drive your car always get it up too operating temperature before you shut it off.

If you have a thermostat stuck open and it is running too cool this can lead to sludge.



I live not even a mile from my work place. I drive to work and shut it off, but when I get off work I take the vehicle out for a seven+ mile drive every night.

During the warmer months I ride a bike to work.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I would not use full synthetics except I drive a turbo car. The real advantage to Synthetic oil IMO, are to enable one to extend the OCI beyond 7500 miles and in temps below minue 20 degrees. A good Dino oil will do well down to minus 20 and up to 110F? if you use a reasonable OCI recommended by the manufacture. Most of us on this site do the overkill thing, me included. What good is an engine that is good to 400,000 miles if your having constant issues with the electrical system,suspension etc.


X3 !!!!
 
Originally Posted By: Autobahn88
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I would not use full synthetics except I drive a turbo car. The real advantage to Synthetic oil IMO, are to enable one to extend the OCI beyond 7500 miles and in temps below minue 20 degrees. A good Dino oil will do well down to minus 20 and up to 110F? if you use a reasonable OCI recommended by the manufacture. Most of us on this site do the overkill thing, me included. What good is an engine that is good to 400,000 miles if your having constant issues with the electrical system,suspension etc.


X3 !!!!


Yeah, he makes a good point.

Someone else recently made a similar statement, something like "What good is a great running engine when the car falls apart around it?"
 
Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Originally Posted By: Autobahn88
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I would not use full synthetics except I drive a turbo car. The real advantage to Synthetic oil IMO, are to enable one to extend the OCI beyond 7500 miles and in temps below minue 20 degrees. A good Dino oil will do well down to minus 20 and up to 110F? if you use a reasonable OCI recommended by the manufacture. Most of us on this site do the overkill thing, me included. What good is an engine that is good to 400,000 miles if your having constant issues with the electrical system,suspension etc.


X3 !!!!


Yeah, he makes a good point.

Someone else recently made a similar statement, something like "What good is a great running engine when the car falls apart around it?"


and you guys in tennessee are fortunate,you have no state inspection!!
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A synthetic oil will ultimately keep the inside of the engine cleaner with regular change intervals! I plan on keeping my vehicle till the earth gets hit by a Killer Asteroid! So I will continue to use Mobil-1.....
 
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
A synthetic oil will ultimately keep the inside of the engine cleaner with regular change intervals! I plan on keeping my vehicle till the earth gets hit by a Killer Asteroid! So I will continue to use Mobil-1.....


"till the earth gets hit by a Killer Asteroid!" WHAT THE....
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Well, since the API and ILSAC believe one size fits all and nothing in their specs allow synthetics to demonstrate any superiority, drink their cool aid and use the cheapest SM/GF-4 starburst oil you can find. After all, it’s all the same as far as they are concerned.
 
I'm running synthetics at the moment because I have a huge stash of 'em bought at around $1/quart. But, if I had no oil on hand right now and needed to buy at retail, I would get some Chevron Supreme at Costco for around $2.30/quart instead of synthetics at the $6 or more per quart they are selling for. Really cold winter weather would have me paying up for synthetics in the winter, but that is not a problem in our area.
 
Originally Posted By: bigdreama
Considering the fact that all synthetics are not created equally and that SM rated dino oils are better than ever, is it worth the extra $ for synthetic oils?


I think I am missing something here
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Quote:
Considering the fact that all synthetics are not created equally
OK. There are various quality gp III, various quality gp IV, various quality gp III/IV blends.

Quote:
and that SM rated dino oils are better than ever

OK. There are also various quality gp II oils. Gp II does not mean the best motor oil that modern chemistry and manufacturing can produce.
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I can see no reason to use anything but synthetic considering the slight difference in price. Our local Walmart carries conventional oil in Mobil Clean 5000, Valvoline Premium, Pennzoil YB, and some Castrol GTX. They carry synthetic in Mobil 1, Valvoline, and Pennzoil. If you take the price difference of 5 quart jugs between the most expensive conventional, Castrol GTX, and the least expensive synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum, it is $7.00. For $7.00, there is no way I would turn down Pennzoil Platinum in favor of any conventional oil.
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If you take the price difference between the least expensive conventional, Mobil Clean 5000, and Pennzoil Platinum, the price difference is $10.05. For $10.05, I would not turn down PP for a conventional oil.

If you look at blends, we only have Valvoline Durablend and Valvoline MaxLife. Durablend and MaxLife are the same price. The difference in price between Durablend and PP is $5.50, between Durablend and Synpower is $6.00. MaxLife is another animal so I won't include here.

I have great doubts that anyone here is going to say that PP is a less than quality oil.
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Valvoline Synpower is $0.50(fifty cents)more than Pennzoil Platinum. Mobil 1 is $3.00 more than Pennzoil platinum.
 
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Originally Posted By: bigdreama
Considering the fact that all synthetics are not created equally and that SM rated dino oils are better than ever, is it worth the extra $ for synthetic oils?


I think I am missing something here
21.gif

Quote:
Considering the fact that all synthetics are not created equally
OK. There are various quality gp III, various quality gp IV, various quality gp III/IV blends.

Quote:
and that SM rated dino oils are better than ever

OK. There are also various quality gp II oils. Gp II does not mean the best motor oil that modern chemistry and manufacturing can produce.
smirk2.gif


I can see no reason to use anything but synthetic considering the slight difference in price. Our local Walmart carries conventional oil in Mobil Clean 5000, Valvoline Premium, Pennzoil YB, and some Castrol GTX. They carry synthetic in Mobil 1, Valvoline, and Pennzoil. If you take the price difference of 5 quart jugs between the most expensive conventional, Castrol GTX, and the least expensive synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum, it is $7.00. For $7.00, there is no way I would turn down Pennzoil Platinum in favor of any conventional oil.
crazy2.gif


If you take the price difference between the least expensive conventional, Mobil Clean 5000, and Pennzoil Platinum, the price difference is $10.05. For $10.05, I would not turn down PP for a conventional oil.

If you look at blends, we only have Valvoline Durablend and Valvoline MaxLife. Durablend and MaxLife are the same price. The difference in price between Durablend and PP is $5.50, between Durablend and Synpower is $6.00. MaxLife is another animal so I won't include here.

I have great doubts that anyone here is going to say that PP is a less than quality oil.
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Valvoline Synpower is $0.50(fifty cents)more than Pennzoil Platinum. Mobil 1 is $3.00 more than Pennzoil platinum.



I purchased PP at almost half off. 4.4L jugs for $19.88 Canadian dollars (less then $16 USD per jug). YB and GTX rarely go below $15 on sale. So... why not
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Originally Posted By: parreda
I use synthetics because it gets hotter than a well diggers a$$ hole down here in Texas


I believe the quote is "colder than a well diggers a$$". You know, because it's cold in a well and not hot. LOL.
 
To me it depends on how much extra $. If I can get synthetic for $1.5 or less per qt when dino is 80c, yes. If the dino is $2 and synthetic is $3, sure. I run my dino for 5k and synthetic for 7.5k, and the price must reflect this.
 
I buy synthetics on sale for the winter months and use any blend I find on sale in the Summer. Last year I had a stash of Motorcraft and this year I caught the DuraBlend deal at Autozone. This Winter I've been running the NAPA Synthetic (grp III) with no problems. I'm not that worried about the filters. I use the Bosch and Hastings with no problems.
 
Originally Posted By: AndyH
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: cp3
What do you consider a very cold climate?
Freezing cold is when the temps get below 55*f where I live. I hate cold!!!

LOL
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Come on out to MN and I'll show you some cold winter temps
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Been there around 1977 for work and you pee freezes before it hits the ground which makes it tough to write your name in the snow.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
and you guys in tennessee are fortunate,you have no state inspection!!
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True. TN doesn't require registered car owners to actually take care of the vehicles.

I have a problem with this, myself. Virginia has this state inspection law, and buyers of VA cars have a very good chance of buying a used car that's been taken care of because it's the law.

In TN, used car buyers have an excellent chance of buying a car that's never had any preventive maintenance done on it, or even required maintenance. People drive their cars into the dirt and then sell then off to unwary buyers.
 
I certainly understand that not everyone here has the same economic resources at their disposal, but is synthetic really that much more expensive per year? The cost of a coke at a fast food restaurant costs $1.50 or more these days (some sit-down restaurants charge up-wards of $2.00). How many cokes per year do you drink at restaurants?

So unless people have a fleet of cars (or are dirt poor students like I once was) I don't understand what the big concern is about the cost of synthetics (especially for those on this forum who change their own oil).

I kind of get the feeling that this like people who claim vinyl records sound better than CD's (and yes I have heard vinyl records on systems that cost upward of $100,000 and I recently sold my vintage Thornens turntable for 3 times what I payed for it in 1975).
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
IF you drive in very cold climate, you can benefit from easier starting with syns.

IF you plan to go more than 10k miles on an oil change, you can benefit from syns.

IF you race the vehicle, or operate under extremely stressful situations of high heat, high load, lots of RPMS, you can benefit from a syn.

Outside of that, not really.


You forgot: Female drivers who:

1. Start the car at -10F throw it in gear and mash the throttle.
2. Tell you the OLM went off "last month..I think" which means 2-3 months ago.
3. Who do things to an engine that have not been discovered yet.
4. Don't know and don't care that engine oil has to be changed "someday when I get to it"
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Once while having lunch with a co-worker who was complaining that his GF went 16,000 miles on her BMW 3 series without changing the oil and now the engine was using a quart every 1,000 miles...I encouraged him to use synthetic oil in all of her cars in the future.
 
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Originally Posted By: PT1
You forgot: Female drivers who:

1. Start the car at -10F throw it in gear and mash the throttle.

Or after you tell them not to go fast before the engine warms up, they will sit there in idle and race the engine to 4000 RPM until it is warm. Then when you try and explain the difference between speedometer speed and RPM speed, they look at you like you are from Mars.
 
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