GDI 1.6 Kia stopped burning oil.

I agree. As i posted above i feel like i may need to check valve clearance as well as check for ivd’s. I have been contemplating switching back to 5-20 for the next OC just to see if there is a difference. Alot cheaper than valve adjustment and cleaning.

I'm running PUP 0w-20 and it's very thick for a 0w-20. You might try it.
 
I'm running PUP 0w-20 and it's very thick for a 0w-20. You might try it.
Was going to give it a shot on my next change until i realized i had no burn off with the Val, EP. may still give it a go though. I have never in my life used pennzoil labeled product. QS yes, but have never tried pennzoil.
 
Was going to give it a shot on my next change until i realized i had no burn off with the Val, EP. may still give it a go though. I have never in my life used pennzoil labeled product. QS yes, but have never tried pennzoil.
I just tried the PUP 'cause it was "thicker" than the AFE I was running. I'll see what happens with this thicker vis re slight burn off. Don't think it's "better" than Mobil. You might try slightly thinner vis oils to reduce loss of MPG ,while, not burning. 02
 
I just tried the PUP 'cause it was "thicker" than the AFE I was running. I'll see what happens with this thicker vis re slight burn off. Don't think it's "better" than Mobil. You might try slightly thinner vis oils to reduce loss of MPG ,while, not burning. 02
Im not up to par like a lot of folks on this forum. What do you look for in order to differentiate between a “thick” or a “thin” oil when it pertains to oils of the same weight rating? Is valvoline ep considered a “thick” oil?
 
The 'finish' viscosity after usage... otherwise thick/thin is meaningless within a grade 'tech sheet'. Not everyone wants to UOA every vehicle every OCI. I just step up a grade or 2, or spike the oil. I just don't think a single changeover of same grade would make much of a difference unless HTHS was drastically different. I call it oil brand fanboism. Too many drones/bots and fake members in 'most forums' these days.

A 6.9cst is considerably thinner than a 9.29cst oil. Both can be a 0w20.

Spiking the oil grade, for example my vw 1.4t which requires green colored oil with a LSPI reducing tracer zirconium marker additive, means that I toss in a quart of 5w40/10w40 synth..... and top off with the required 508 0w20. Definitely less tinnitus with the spiked oil. Get a little tired of my brand of oil is better than yours.

If you think an oil immediately eliminated your consumption, its just silly especially with the current API/ILSAC/automaker oil requirements. Too many don't even know what is in their engine, after handing a jug/case of oil to their tech/mech/indie/quicklube..... Tech keeps it for himself and you get 'bulk'. Watch your techs like a hawk. The free coffee/doughnuts/wifi is just for bamboozling owners.


sae-j300-engine-viscosity-table.jpg
 
The 'finish' viscosity after usage... otherwise thick/thin is meaningless within a grade 'tech sheet'. Not everyone wants to UOA every vehicle every OCI. I just step up a grade or 2, or spike the oil. I just don't think a single changeover of same grade would make much of a difference unless HTHS was drastically different. I call it oil brand fanboism. Too many drones/bots and fake members in 'most forums' these days.

A 6.9cst is considerably thinner than a 9.29cst oil. Both can be a 0w20.

Spiking the oil grade, for example my vw 1.4t which requires green colored oil with a LSPI reducing tracer zirconium marker additive, means that I toss in a quart of 5w40/10w40 synth..... and top off with the required 508 0w20. Definitely less tinnitus with the spiked oil. Get a little tired of my brand of oil is better than yours.

If you think an oil immediately eliminated your consumption, its just silly especially with the current API/ILSAC/automaker oil requirements. Too many don't even know what is in their engine, after handing a jug/case of oil to their tech/mech/indie/quicklube..... Tech keeps it for himself and you get 'bulk'. Watch your techs like a hawk. The free coffee/doughnuts/wifi is just for bamboozling owners.


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Interesting, and thank you for the information. What do you believe contributed to the sudden stop in consumption? Stuck oil control ring and or rings?
 
Sudden stop? Don't believe it happened. Improper usage of dipstick is number 1 issue. On most auto brand forums, using the dipstick correctly is a bazillion page debate/argument. #2 could be dilution with fuel. #3 could a be a gas station with improper overdosed additives that did some hard cleaning.
 
Sudden stop? Don't believe it happened. Improper usage of dipstick is number 1 issue. On most auto brand forums, using the dipstick correctly is a bazillion page debate/argument. #2 could be dilution with fuel. #3 could a be a gas station with improper overdosed additives that did some hard cleaning.
…….fascinating
 
Im not up to par like a lot of folks on this forum. What do you look for in order to differentiate between a “thick” or a “thin” oil when it pertains to oils of the same weight rating? Is valvoline ep considered a “thick” oil?
I just look at the relative viscosity, density, pour point, on the product data sheets and how the oil "feels" in my Camry. Looking at the VEP 5w-30 PDS, the pour point is -36 which is much thicker than the example Pup 0w-20 at -48 which is why your mpg took a hit. Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to find an oil thin, enough, to bump your mpg........, yet, thick, enough,....... to reduce your burn rate. I just suggested the 0w-20 PUP 'cause I noticed it's "thicker" running than the AFE in my previous fill. Your observations make sense, the VEP 5w-30 was thick, enough, not to burn, but, so thick it dropped your mpg quite a bit. Hope this helps.
 
My sons KIA Rio in signature (same engine I think) is burning oil like crazy (Just got a P0240 code....catalytic converter....) I doubt any oil will fix the carboned up rings on it. Oil change every 5K since new (mostly synthetic.) Made no difference. Tried new PCV also. 130K on car, if he decides to replace the Cat, then I'll attempt a piston soak. If that doesn't work, run it until cat blows again I guess.
 
I came back to edit and add that the dip in fuel mileage occurred around the same time that i switched from 5-20 to 5-30. I have read many scenarios on this forum with people stating that a change in weight did not effect their MPG so im not sure if there is a correlation there or not. I have taken a 5-8 mpg hit. I also noticed the car did not “feel” as peppy with the heavier weight oil…. Once agin i have read on here that it would be impossible to perceive a difference but i “feel” like there was. Please dont butcher me over the last 2 statements :) Thanks
No butchering, but that's way too high of a change from one grade of oil. There are many, many factors that influence fuel consumption and it's impossible to correlate one minor variable to an observed change in everyday driving. Here are a couple of posts by someone that knows more than I do and he's correct about the difficulty. The second one is about gasoline but the concept is the same. I once posted an article that noted the energy density of gasoline varies up to 4% even at the same gas station, apart from winter to summer blend changes. So at this point you're into the noise without even trying.

Remember it is one thing to observe something but being able to ascribe it to a variable is the much harder part.

 
Don't worry, maybe frequent oil change help loosing a stuck oil ring : )
Try a UOA to see if fuel dilution is serious or not.
 
I have owned my 2018 Kia Rio since 2019. I purchased the car preowned with 32k miles on the odo. I am currently sitting at 69k+ mi. I do mixed driving with alot of high speed interstate and freeway, and avoid stop and go scenarios whenever possible. I do 5k mile OCI with synthetic. I started with 5-20 but have since switched to 5-30 around the 55k mark. I noticed that around 40k miles the engine began to consume about a 1/2 quart right at the 3k mile marker into the OC. I have tried different oils and all seemed to begin to burn off right at 3k. I top off, and would be good until i changed it at 5k. I was curious if switching to 5-30 would make a difference and it did not. This engine has always darkened the oil quickly. Right around 3k mi it is diesel engine dark. I had accepted the burning and just figured it is what it is….until i tried valvoline ep 5-30 with a fram ultra on my last change. I have used the ultra filters before, but had never tried valvoline ep in the past mainly due to cost when performing “short” OCI’s. I did my routine level check at 3k and for the first time the oil level still sat at the full mark on the dip stick. I also noticed that the oil had retained its amber color with only a slight change in the hue. I am now about 800 miles away from a change and checked the level again, and i am still on the full mark, or maybe even a little bit higher, though it may be from checking the level in a gravel driveway. The rise in level is around a mm so i am not sure if fuel dilution is an accurate assumption.. I have never noticed fuel dilution through a raising of the level on the dip stick, but with it burning off on oci’s prior there is no way i would have known. I have never done an analysis on the used engine oil. What could be going on here? Is it possible that valvoline ep formulation just dosent burn off in this car, and why is the oil retaining its color? I have noticed a dip in fuel mileage over the last 10k -15k miles, and i feel like i need to check my intake valves for carbon deposits, but that is something i will do in the fall or winter. I am probably going to stick with valvoline ep in the future and see how it goes. I have tried all other big store brand name synthetics and all resulted in burning. Thank you for any and all input. I came back to edit and add that the dip in fuel mileage occurred around the same time that i switched from 5-20 to 5-30. I have read many scenarios on this forum with people stating that a change in weight did not effect their MPG so im not sure if there is a correlation there or not. I have taken a 5-8 mpg hit. I also noticed the car did not “feel” as peppy with the heavier weight oil…. Once agin i have read on here that it would be impossible to perceive a difference but i “feel” like there was. Please dont butcher me over the last 2 statements :) Thanks
P.S. You have familiarity with VEP 5w-30 oil and it stopped burning. Try the 5W-20 VEP: the 5w-20 has the same pour point as the 30w but has slightly less Viscosity and might work to bump your mpg. See how much the VEP 5w-20 helps, then, try the VEP 0w-20 . These VEP oils all appear to have thick pour points. You will learn something this way. Hope this helps.
 
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My sons KIA Rio in signature (same engine I think) is burning oil like crazy (Just got a P0240 code....catalytic converter....) I doubt any oil will fix the carboned up rings on it. Oil change every 5K since new (mostly synthetic.) Made no difference. Tried new PCV also. 130K on car, if he decides to replace the Cat, then I'll attempt a piston soak. If that doesn't work, run it until cat blows again I guess.
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Oh no, do not pay that money. It's really easy. Here's one video as a reference:


Thanks Zig. There is another video (I think same guy) where he goes step by step. I may give it a shot.

I just read some of the comments on that video. One guy said he had 150K on his and as long as he had the code, KIA replaced his. Worth a shot, but doubtful they will do anything.
 
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Don't worry, maybe frequent oil change help loosing a stuck oil ring : )
Try a UOA to see if fuel dilution is serious or not.
Yes sir i think im going to pull a sample and send it in. I would like to know the status.
 
Interesting... My 2016 Soul with the same engine burned 1.5 qts last time I drained oil. It's here -- https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...lvoline-5w30-advanced-fs-2-784-mi-6mo.355998/

I have been using the same oil you are using but it doesn't stop my Kia from burning it.
How much is it consuming? Im 300 miles from the next change and it hasn't dropped at all. Maybe gone up in level just a scosche. Color has remained a consistent amber throughout the entire interval, which i find interesting. All other products tried turned coal black shortly after change. What interval and how many miles on your soul?
 
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