GC 0W30 5.7L LS1 Terrible 1st UOA!!!

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Guys I am not sure what to make of this. Kind of freaking out. Drove this car all during the winter in Pennsylvania so it was relatively cold. I don't really run the car hard at all. Only thing I may have done was Seafoam the car through the brake booster hose, but I am not sure if that was during this oil change. I didn't like the way my car felt with GC. Just changed to PP 10w30 and so far it sounds better. Any advise guys?
 
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Something sheared the oil. GC doesn't lose almost 10% of its viscosity for no reason.
 

jigen

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I am a big newbie here so I don't know what I can really add. This is the 2nd oil change since I bought the car from the last owner. He always used dino oil so it's the 2nd synthetic change. \:\(
 
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 Quote:
Any advise guys?
Seek professional advice, like Terry Dyson. You will go batty otherwise guessing which faceless internet interpreter is correct.
 
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 Originally Posted By: jigen
This is the 2nd oil change since I bought the car from the last owner. He always used dino oil so it's the 2nd synthetic change.
Yikes. Doesn't the 'Vette require synthetic? Did you or he do a lot of short trips, or was it mostly highway?
 
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If this is only the second time on Syn you might still be flushing out the engine. Syns clean better than most conventionals. If you seafoamed the car on this oil hange that would have a flushing effect.
 

jigen

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 Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
 Quote:
Any advise guys?
Seek professional advice, like Terry Dyson. You will go batty otherwise guessing which faceless internet interpreter is correct.
I am guessing he is a member on the boards? I found his site. Would calling blackstone and giving them more info on the car's history get me anywhere? I never dealt with them before.
 
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Terry used to be a member here. He runs his own service. I use his services and can strongly recommend him. He's significantly more expensive than a plain-Jane UOA, but it's hard to put a price on knowledge.
 

jigen

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I know. I just don't really know what to make of it. I will probably go ahead and do another UOA with the PP 10w30 and see the results after 2k (almost at 1k now). I just wonder if results improve how much I should still worry about the car. I am just honestly surprised since the car treats me so well.
 
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What was your oil life monitor (OLM) down to when you changed oil? I do short trips in my 1998 Corvette (it's OLM uses 10,000 miles as maximum oil life, newer Corvettes went to 15,000 miles) and I still get over 6,000 miles on my OLM! With 119,000 miles I show no numbers as high as you. My car only uses 1/2 quart in 6,000 miles. What year is your Corvette? Does it use much oil? (you said NO makeup oil in 4,000 miles, that is good).
 
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If you Seafoamed it, I don't think you can trust the analysis. I've always been told to change out the oil after running the stuff for a short while. I haven't run an analysis of GC in my LS1, but my experience has been very good. I change it once a year per GM's recommendation (usually 3k miles). There is nothing wrong with PP in there either. GC seems to give less valve train noise than the M1 10-30 I used to use.
 
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Don't jump the gun. Just trend the wear patterns by doing 3 or more consecutive UOA's and keep all elements the same i.e. use the same oil and filter that's in the crankcase now. If the numbers improve you are good to go but if the wear numbers are same, higher or marginally lower then definately seek out TD's expertise. Personally I would change the PCV valve, air filter if not changed and check all hoses for any leak. Take care.
 

jigen

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Thanks for the responses! corvette owner - I don't have a vette but an '02 Camaro. Sorry if I didn't say clear. It's a 6-speed if it makes a difference. ArrestMe - I am not 100% if it was this oil or the oil before but I seafoamed from the brake booster and put a can in my gas tank. Royal Purple, GC, PP. I tried 3 different oils and only did 3 changes. Once when I got the car, then once every 6 months. See for me, GC made my car noisier than it is now with PP. But that could be just because of the winter and the colder starts.
 

jigen

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 Originally Posted By: deven
Don't jump the gun. Just trend the wear patterns by doing 3 or more consecutive UOA's and keep all elements the same i.e. use the same oil and filter that's in the crankcase now. If the numbers improve you are good to go but if the wear numbers are same, higher or marginally lower then definately seek out TD's expertise. Personally I would change the PCV valve, air filter if not changed and check all hoses for any leak. Take care.
Great advice, you'll make me sleep better tonight lol. I changed the pcv valve when I first got the car, along with all sorts of maintenance you'd do with any "new to me" car purchase. Another tidbit: The car popped a code after I installed my new exhaust. It said the car was running lean on fuel. I was told that it can pop from adjusting to the new exhaust. I cleared the code, hasn't popped since (been well over 6 months). Car is modded, but nothing too far from stock. Ported throttle body. Air Lid, new Y-pipe, and catback. Stock headers.
 

FZ1

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Don't stick foreign objects in your engine. Dump this oil after 2k with no uoa. You could do a uoa on the next fill.
 

jigen

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 Originally Posted By: FZ1
Don't stick foreign objects in your engine. Dump this oil after 2k with no uoa. You could do a uoa on the next fill.
Meaning additives like Seafoam, correct? So save my money and skip one uoa? I have a fresh batch of PP waiting, if I skip should I only run it 2k?
 
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I'll take a stab at this one. First problem is major fuel dilution, probably lots of idling and cold weather, could also be a leaky injector. Second, I have a feeling there's some leak in or around the airbox, silicon is a little high and would account for the upper wear. Third, where did the moly come from? GC doesn't have any moly. When was the last time the air filter was changed? Is it sealed up good? Dump this fill at 2-3k, refill with PP 10w30 and resample at 3-4k.
 

jigen

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I'll be honest. I did idle much more than usual during this oil change. - air box is aftermarket (SLP). It may sound dumb, but there is a spot that doesn't seal as nicely as I would like. I can seal the back up with electrical tape. - Filter has 7k on it maybe? Relatively new. Again thank you very much for the replies.
 
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