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Get pre and post A-RX treatment compression tests done. If you don't, someone might tell you later you should have gotten those done.
Gave ARX another try
- Thread starter stang5
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I see very little sludge in those pictures, it's mostly varnish. Varnish seems to take quite a while to remove.
Those dark colored parts on the valve train are carbon like deposit that you can dig your fingernails into. when I bought the truck all it had was the varnish stain no carbon deposit whatsoever. I'm sure ARX contributed to the motor not leaking, consuming oil and good power from better compression but not cleaning up the carbon like deposit on the valvetrain..My driving is 80%hwy 20%city I change the oil every 4k miles or 4 months. thermostat is change every 60K miles when the Timing belt is serviced, and PCV valve change every 30k miles. The engine warms up fine and doesn't over heat, so I know the thermostat is fine..
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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I see very little sludge in those pictures, it's mostly varnish. Varnish seems to take quite a while to remove.
My suggestion was made so that empirical evidence of the much more important piston groove and ringland cleanliness may be shown.
I see very little sludge in those pictures, it's mostly varnish. Varnish seems to take quite a while to remove.
My suggestion was made so that empirical evidence of the much more important piston groove and ringland cleanliness may be shown.
Stang5,
Having seen the varnish buildup on your engine and understanding that you are not happy with the path you currently find yourself traveling, let me try and make a constructive suggestion:
If time is not necessarily of the essence (and with varnish, I wouldn't think you'd be in too big a hurry) then do like many people have done in the past and run several 3-5K OCIs with PP or a similar synthetic of good quality. As bad as yours is, it will take a few changes but eventually everything will be clear. This has worked for a lot of people. The only cost is a few dollars more for premium synthetic.
Of course, if that's the oil you've already been using, I'd suggest running a pint of MMO for the last thousand miles before a change. You're only out like $2 if it doesn't work.
Having seen the varnish buildup on your engine and understanding that you are not happy with the path you currently find yourself traveling, let me try and make a constructive suggestion:
If time is not necessarily of the essence (and with varnish, I wouldn't think you'd be in too big a hurry) then do like many people have done in the past and run several 3-5K OCIs with PP or a similar synthetic of good quality. As bad as yours is, it will take a few changes but eventually everything will be clear. This has worked for a lot of people. The only cost is a few dollars more for premium synthetic.
Of course, if that's the oil you've already been using, I'd suggest running a pint of MMO for the last thousand miles before a change. You're only out like $2 if it doesn't work.
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Stang5,
Having seen the varnish buildup on your engine and understanding that you are not happy with the path you currently find yourself traveling, let me try and make a constructive suggestion:
If time is not necessarily of the essence (and with varnish, I wouldn't think you'd be in too big a hurry) then do like many people have done in the past and run several 3-5K OCIs with PP or a similar synthetic of good quality. As bad as yours is, it will take a few changes but eventually everything will be clear. This has worked for a lot of people. The only cost is a few dollars more for premium synthetic.
Of course, if that's the oil you've already been using, I'd suggest running a pint of MMO for the last thousand miles before a change. You're only out like $2 if it doesn't work.
Please, please, please take some pics of you are able to clean everything up with PP alone. That's not a challenge. That's a sincere request. If there's another tool in the arsenal, it deserves to be touted. Perhaps it's NOT the most scientific proof. But if the physical appearance of sludge is the issue, surely some sort of proof of less of it is a good thing???
I mean, all my oil changes are 3-5k with good synth but that alone has never shown anything. But I'm not everybody, of course. I just want to see if other folks can make it work.
Stang5,
Having seen the varnish buildup on your engine and understanding that you are not happy with the path you currently find yourself traveling, let me try and make a constructive suggestion:
If time is not necessarily of the essence (and with varnish, I wouldn't think you'd be in too big a hurry) then do like many people have done in the past and run several 3-5K OCIs with PP or a similar synthetic of good quality. As bad as yours is, it will take a few changes but eventually everything will be clear. This has worked for a lot of people. The only cost is a few dollars more for premium synthetic.
Of course, if that's the oil you've already been using, I'd suggest running a pint of MMO for the last thousand miles before a change. You're only out like $2 if it doesn't work.
Please, please, please take some pics of you are able to clean everything up with PP alone. That's not a challenge. That's a sincere request. If there's another tool in the arsenal, it deserves to be touted. Perhaps it's NOT the most scientific proof. But if the physical appearance of sludge is the issue, surely some sort of proof of less of it is a good thing???
I mean, all my oil changes are 3-5k with good synth but that alone has never shown anything. But I'm not everybody, of course. I just want to see if other folks can make it work.
Sorry, it's already gone.
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Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Originally Posted By: moribundman
I appreciate the product pitch in the last sentence. I like MMO.
It goes with the name...MMOri....
After six years on BITOG I thought I ought to come clean.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
I appreciate the product pitch in the last sentence. I like MMO.
It goes with the name...MMOri....
After six years on BITOG I thought I ought to come clean.
I think that running 1/2 - 1 qt of MMO for about 1000 miles before you drop your oil for the next 2-3 oil changes will clean that up. Myself and other members have been doing this successfully for a long time w/o any problems. I generally run 1/2 qt for 500-750 miles, but that varnish looks like its pretty heavy.
Frank D
Frank D
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Originally Posted By: moribundman
I appreciate the product pitch in the last sentence. I like MMO.
It goes with the name...MMOri....
After six years on BITOG I thought I ought to come clean.
clean and minty
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Originally Posted By: moribundman
I appreciate the product pitch in the last sentence. I like MMO.
It goes with the name...MMOri....
After six years on BITOG I thought I ought to come clean.
clean and minty
Stang5, you're not alone. My engine (Chrysler 2.7L V6) looked very much like yours after 3 ARX treatments. I had the engine open again this past summer and the varnish was still all there. With my engine, ARX doesn't appear to have done anything. Compression has never changed but it couldn't have because it was stellar to begin with and still is. I've never found anything in any of the oil filters either. I've just finished ARX #4 on this engine and am currently rinsing with Pennzoil Platinum.
I've also run ARX in a 2000 Cavalier Z24, a 2001 Sunfire 2.2, and a 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6. The 2000 Cavalier Z24 just finished it's 3rd ARX and is currently on it's rinse cycle. I still have some filters from those vehicles to cut open and some follow-up compression tests to do, but all interim testing has failed to show any improvement in anything (so far). If I find something positive - I'll post it. And if I find nothing - I'll post that too. The ARX cheerleading squad doesn't like but... that's too bad.
I have one bottle of ARX left. I haven't decided which vehicle to run it in but once it's gone, I probably won't be buying any more. I wish I could join the legion of customers who have seen positive results and be able to report that I have. But that has not been my experience.
BTW, you're not the first ARX CUSTOMER to be insulted by the supplier, for reporting that you couldn't see any positive results. It's a disgraceful practice.
I've also run ARX in a 2000 Cavalier Z24, a 2001 Sunfire 2.2, and a 2001 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6. The 2000 Cavalier Z24 just finished it's 3rd ARX and is currently on it's rinse cycle. I still have some filters from those vehicles to cut open and some follow-up compression tests to do, but all interim testing has failed to show any improvement in anything (so far). If I find something positive - I'll post it. And if I find nothing - I'll post that too. The ARX cheerleading squad doesn't like but... that's too bad.
I have one bottle of ARX left. I haven't decided which vehicle to run it in but once it's gone, I probably won't be buying any more. I wish I could join the legion of customers who have seen positive results and be able to report that I have. But that has not been my experience.
BTW, you're not the first ARX CUSTOMER to be insulted by the supplier, for reporting that you couldn't see any positive results. It's a disgraceful practice.
I guess some people just haven't seen results w/ ARX, doesn't seem like a big deal. I've had stellar results on my cars so I'll keep using it, if it doesn't work for you then don't use it. No product will always accomplish 100 percent of the user's expectations, including fuel treatments and other motor additives.
Use what works for you.
Use what works for you.
I have stellar results but I'm very picky about the oil I use with it (no PAO or ester) and I run it much longer than standard. Ran clean 5,500kms in the BMW, now on rinse which is very dirty after 2,000kms.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
I have stellar results but I'm very picky about the oil I use with it (no PAO or ester) and I run it much longer than standard. Ran clean 5,500kms in the BMW, now on rinse which is very dirty after 2,000kms.
Likewise. ARX #4 was run for about 7500 KM (4600 miles), which is the longest for me in the Chrysler 2.7.
The 3rd run of ARX on my daughters 2000 Cavalier Z24 went for 9000 km( 5600 miles). I didn't mean to let it go quite that long but I lost track of the mileage since she doesn't live at home.
I have stellar results but I'm very picky about the oil I use with it (no PAO or ester) and I run it much longer than standard. Ran clean 5,500kms in the BMW, now on rinse which is very dirty after 2,000kms.
Likewise. ARX #4 was run for about 7500 KM (4600 miles), which is the longest for me in the Chrysler 2.7.
The 3rd run of ARX on my daughters 2000 Cavalier Z24 went for 9000 km( 5600 miles). I didn't mean to let it go quite that long but I lost track of the mileage since she doesn't live at home.
Originally Posted By: panthermike
I guess some people just haven't seen results w/ ARX, doesn't seem like a big deal. I've had stellar results on my cars so I'll keep using it, if it doesn't work for you then don't use it. No product will always accomplish 100 percent of the user's expectations, including fuel treatments and other motor additives.
Use what works for you.
Agreed on all Mike.
I'm certainly not trying to discourage anyone from trying ARX. Just presenting my experience, which is quite a different experience from other users.
I guess some people just haven't seen results w/ ARX, doesn't seem like a big deal. I've had stellar results on my cars so I'll keep using it, if it doesn't work for you then don't use it. No product will always accomplish 100 percent of the user's expectations, including fuel treatments and other motor additives.
Use what works for you.
Agreed on all Mike.
I'm certainly not trying to discourage anyone from trying ARX. Just presenting my experience, which is quite a different experience from other users.
va3ux It is good to see an honest unbiased evaluation of a product. Nothing works in all applications, and what I have found is that some cars are in need of nothing because they were properly cared for, or perhaps a different product was used in the past that yielded similar results. There are many products that do the same job using different methods and yield similar results. If one product is constantly mentioned as being the absolute best, and no one ever had an issue with it I for one am cautious.
What I have found is sometimes it is a combination of two different products (used at different times) yield the very good results. No two situations are exactly the same. A-Rx has a loyal following and many satisfied customers, you could just be one person that has a unique situation, or one that requires being handled a different way.
JMO,
Frank D
What I have found is sometimes it is a combination of two different products (used at different times) yield the very good results. No two situations are exactly the same. A-Rx has a loyal following and many satisfied customers, you could just be one person that has a unique situation, or one that requires being handled a different way.
JMO,
Frank D
Originally Posted By: va3ux
Originally Posted By: panthermike
I guess some people just haven't seen results w/ ARX, doesn't seem like a big deal. I've had stellar results on my cars so I'll keep using it, if it doesn't work for you then don't use it. No product will always accomplish 100 percent of the user's expectations, including fuel treatments and other motor additives.
Use what works for you.
Agreed on all Mike.
I'm certainly not trying to discourage anyone from trying ARX. Just presenting my experience, which is quite a different experience from other users.
And that's a good thing. It's nice to see reviews/opinions from both sides, not everyone will get what they want from ARX. Is the Ford F150 the best selling vehicle in America? Yes. Does it work for everyone? No.
To each his own
Oh, and +1 on what demarpaint said, nice to see unbiased comments. You simply stated your findings w/out trying to start a ARX War.
Originally Posted By: panthermike
I guess some people just haven't seen results w/ ARX, doesn't seem like a big deal. I've had stellar results on my cars so I'll keep using it, if it doesn't work for you then don't use it. No product will always accomplish 100 percent of the user's expectations, including fuel treatments and other motor additives.
Use what works for you.
Agreed on all Mike.
I'm certainly not trying to discourage anyone from trying ARX. Just presenting my experience, which is quite a different experience from other users.
And that's a good thing. It's nice to see reviews/opinions from both sides, not everyone will get what they want from ARX. Is the Ford F150 the best selling vehicle in America? Yes. Does it work for everyone? No.
To each his own
Oh, and +1 on what demarpaint said, nice to see unbiased comments. You simply stated your findings w/out trying to start a ARX War.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: stang5
can someone host some photos for me??
This is my 3rd application and still disappointed about the gunk on the valve train.
1991 Nissan pathfinder currently have 176K miles. I did 2 treatments that was finish at 142k miles and posted some photos on here, valvetrain had gunk on it. I did another ARX treatment just once this time and finish the treatment at 175K miles, valve train look identical at 142K miles. I bought this truck with 100k miles and the valve train was clean no photos however. Ran amsoil until I did the first arx treatment after that nothing but chevron at 4K miles OCI. PCV valves replaced every 30K miles, truck runs great and still gets the advertise MPG.. I don't mind varnished on the valvetrain but gunk on it? YIKES..kinda makes me wonder if I'm just wasting my money on this product..
I'm still confused about this whole thing. You stated you bought the Nissan with 100K on it and it was clean. I assume that means no varnish and no deposits. At that time you started using Amsoil, a 100% PAO synthetic. Then at somewhere around 135-140K you discovered the varnish and all of these deposits and started your ARX treatments. Is my understanding of this correct so for? If it is, then I want to know where the varnish and deposits came from, because if everything was clean/spotless, 100% PAO synthetic should keep it spotless. Something just does not add up for my old feeble mind.
can someone host some photos for me??
This is my 3rd application and still disappointed about the gunk on the valve train.
1991 Nissan pathfinder currently have 176K miles. I did 2 treatments that was finish at 142k miles and posted some photos on here, valvetrain had gunk on it. I did another ARX treatment just once this time and finish the treatment at 175K miles, valve train look identical at 142K miles. I bought this truck with 100k miles and the valve train was clean no photos however. Ran amsoil until I did the first arx treatment after that nothing but chevron at 4K miles OCI. PCV valves replaced every 30K miles, truck runs great and still gets the advertise MPG.. I don't mind varnished on the valvetrain but gunk on it? YIKES..kinda makes me wonder if I'm just wasting my money on this product..
I'm still confused about this whole thing. You stated you bought the Nissan with 100K on it and it was clean. I assume that means no varnish and no deposits. At that time you started using Amsoil, a 100% PAO synthetic. Then at somewhere around 135-140K you discovered the varnish and all of these deposits and started your ARX treatments. Is my understanding of this correct so for? If it is, then I want to know where the varnish and deposits came from, because if everything was clean/spotless, 100% PAO synthetic should keep it spotless. Something just does not add up for my old feeble mind.
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: stang5
can someone host some photos for me??
This is my 3rd application and still disappointed about the gunk on the valve train.
1991 Nissan pathfinder currently have 176K miles. I did 2 treatments that was finish at 142k miles and posted some photos on here, valvetrain had gunk on it. I did another ARX treatment just once this time and finish the treatment at 175K miles, valve train look identical at 142K miles. I bought this truck with 100k miles and the valve train was clean no photos however. Ran amsoil until I did the first arx treatment after that nothing but chevron at 4K miles OCI. PCV valves replaced every 30K miles, truck runs great and still gets the advertise MPG.. I don't mind varnished on the valvetrain but gunk on it? YIKES..kinda makes me wonder if I'm just wasting my money on this product..
I'm still confused about this whole thing. You stated you bought the Nissan with 100K on it and it was clean. I assume that means no varnish and no deposits. At that time you started using Amsoil, a 100% PAO synthetic. Then at somewhere around 135-140K you discovered the varnish and all of these deposits and started your ARX treatments. Is my understanding of this correct so for? If it is, then I want to know where the varnish and deposits came from, because if everything was clean/spotless, 100% PAO synthetic should keep it spotless. Something just does not add up for my old feeble mind.
I'm puzzled as well, when I bought the truck at 100k miles I inspected the valvetrain and it has varnish stain But no carbon like deposit like I have now. From 100K miles till 135K miles or so I ran synthetic oil. After the 1st arx treatment I've run nothing but chevron supreme..
Originally Posted By: stang5
can someone host some photos for me??
This is my 3rd application and still disappointed about the gunk on the valve train.
1991 Nissan pathfinder currently have 176K miles. I did 2 treatments that was finish at 142k miles and posted some photos on here, valvetrain had gunk on it. I did another ARX treatment just once this time and finish the treatment at 175K miles, valve train look identical at 142K miles. I bought this truck with 100k miles and the valve train was clean no photos however. Ran amsoil until I did the first arx treatment after that nothing but chevron at 4K miles OCI. PCV valves replaced every 30K miles, truck runs great and still gets the advertise MPG.. I don't mind varnished on the valvetrain but gunk on it? YIKES..kinda makes me wonder if I'm just wasting my money on this product..
I'm still confused about this whole thing. You stated you bought the Nissan with 100K on it and it was clean. I assume that means no varnish and no deposits. At that time you started using Amsoil, a 100% PAO synthetic. Then at somewhere around 135-140K you discovered the varnish and all of these deposits and started your ARX treatments. Is my understanding of this correct so for? If it is, then I want to know where the varnish and deposits came from, because if everything was clean/spotless, 100% PAO synthetic should keep it spotless. Something just does not add up for my old feeble mind.
I'm puzzled as well, when I bought the truck at 100k miles I inspected the valvetrain and it has varnish stain But no carbon like deposit like I have now. From 100K miles till 135K miles or so I ran synthetic oil. After the 1st arx treatment I've run nothing but chevron supreme..
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