Gas water heaters are expensive

[BMWTurboDzl]

The door isn't the issue, it's getting the old, likely heavy (due to deposits) tank up and over that sill, and then down the stairs and out the door all hopefully without causing any nicks, scrapes, etc. on walls or floors. I'm curious why that copper pipe runs right in front, blocking access to the heater?

Ya I get it. Not a lot of deposits because I drain it twice a year. The copper pipe is a "I have no idea" water line and the connector is on the right front side.of the WH.. I think it has something to do with the a failure judging by the valve. I can't remember exactly what the valve is called.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Are you dealing with 'bigger' plumbing shops ? If so, can you try the truly 1-2 man shops (if you can find 'em) ? Granted, it will probably take longer before they can do the job, but at least yours isn't an emergency.

Medium size and small. I have a leaking expansion tank connector.

 

[Japanese]

The copper pipe is a "I have no idea" water line and the connector is on the right front side.

That is the overflow valve. It releases water if the temp. and pressure in the tank gets too high. The valve piping is usually routed to the nearest drain. You can operate the valve manually by flipping its handle and water will start draining out of it until it reaches the valve level. The heater has a lower drain valve too to which a hose can be connected/screwed for draining its entire capacity.

I did plumbing helping a friend contractor. He taught me do anything that licensed plumber does, even I was not. I did my job very well most of the time on my own and never left any leaks behind. The only thing I haven't done was replacing a toilet bowl.

Later, when I friend of mine bought his house he called me and we both replaced his old water heater.

The only think you need to learn is how to cut copper pipes ad how to solder copper pipes with tin and a torch. Everything else is relatively easy if you have a buddy or relative to help you.

I don't know your ragulations but I would suggest to get rid of the expansion tank and cap that outlet. I've never seen such a tank before.

You have to turn the heater off, shut the water to it and drain the water out of it before you start working on it. If you're technically incline you can do it all. It's a matter of a few steps and you have to be careful and do it in the correct order.

 

[Hohn]

I think I splurged and paid $900 for the Rheem I have now. Installed myself with $50 worth of fittings. Hassle free and reliable for 6 years.

Sept 2019:

I had to replace that old softener just a couple weeks later too. Also DIY, also paid about $900. Super happy with both softener and heater.

 

[Hall]

Installed myself with $50 worth of fittings.

Those flexible pipes should make future replacements pretty simple too

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

That is the overflow valve. It releases water if the temp. and pressure in the tank gets too high. The valve piping is usually routed to the nearest drain. You can operate the valve manually by flipping its handle and water will start draining out of it until it reaches the valve level. The heater has a lower drain valve too to which a hose can be connected/screwed for draining its entire capacity.

I did plumbing helping a friend contractor. He taught me do anything that licensed plumber does, even I was not. I did my job very well most of the time on my own and never left any leaks behind. The only thing I haven't done was replacing a toilet bowl.

Later, when I friend of mine bought his house he called me and we both replaced his old water heater.

The only think you need to learn is how to cut copper pipes ad how to solder copper pipes with tin and a torch. Everything else is relatively easy if you have a buddy or relative to help you.

I don't know your ragulations but I would suggest to get rid of the expansion tank and cap that outlet. I've never seen such a tank before.

You have to turn the heater off, shut the water to it and drain the water out of it before you start working on it. If you're technically incline you can do it all. It's a matter of a few steps and you have to be careful and do it in the correct order.

Ya. Thanks I couldn't remember. I turned off the gas and water to the tank earlier this evening. Going to drain it tomorrow am so the guys can get in/out quicker tomorrow. I'm annoyed to have to replace it because I drain the tank twice a year to wash out the sediment. I expected to get more than 10 yrs out of a commercial grade tank. That outlet is the inlet for the water and sometimes and expansion tank is needed depending on the type of water heater. A commercial company installed the existing tank so maybe they made an error.

 

[Japanese]

That is the overflow valve.

Pressure relief valve It costs like $15-20.
https://activerain.com/blogsview/27...er-heater-is-leaking--and-what-to-do-about-it

https://www.structuretech1.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Pressure-regulator-prevents-expansion.jpg

 

[rszappa1]

Ya. Thanks I couldn't remember. I turned off the gas and water to the tank earlier this evening. Going to drain it tomorrow am so the guys can get in/out quicker tomorrow. I'm annoyed to have to replace it because I drain the tank twice a year to wash out the sediment. I expected to get more than 10 yrs out of a commercial grade tank. That outlet is the inlet for the water and sometimes and expansion tank is needed depending on the type of water heater. A commercial company installed the existing tank so maybe they made an error.

I purchased the sediment buster and it works great...you can inject air pressure to help break up the sediment...and it is clear plastic so you can see the crude come out...got mine on Amazon.com..

 

[rszappa1]

 

[AZjeff]

I expected to get more than 10 yrs out of a commercial grade tank. That outlet is the inlet for the water and sometimes and expansion tank is needed depending on the type of water heater. A commercial company installed the existing tank so maybe they made an error.

Did you ever look at and/or replace the anode rod? If you have a closed plumbing system you need the expansion tank.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Yes they are expensive. Have a 75 gallon gas hot water tank with expansion tank in my house now. Going on 10 years. I flush it 2X a year to get the sediment out, even though I have 3 pre filters where the water line comes in the house ! Stuff still comes out of it anyway. Always heats up faster after a good flush. Hoping it will last till I sell the house in a few years.

 

[burbguy82]

but I would suggest to get rid of the expansion tank and cap that outlet. I've never seen such a tank before.

terrible advice, for several reasons

10 yrs out of a commercial grade tank

"commercial" is just marketing, 10 years is near the normal max life, depending on water quality

If you have a closed plumbing system you need the expansion tank.

correct

 

[John105]

Wow, was not aware. Paid just under $1000 for the same in 2016 installed, 12 year warranty. OP's price probably shows water heaters went up more than new cars and college tuition. It is funny when auto mfgs haven't updated their websites yet for 2026 models, and you see "starts at 59k," actually starting at 65k for 2026--it's very sly and sneaky. We got all new HVAC in July 2020, and I think the timing (system broke summer 2019) was fortunate.

 

[charbaby]

I recently paid $1500 for a 40 gallon in 2024 plu$ any pipe rerouting/fittings, etc.
My total cost was over $1700 for the install.

 

[John105]

"commercial" is just marketing...

GMC does just that, and it seem to work lol

 

[burbguy82]

GMC does just that, and it seem to work lol

HMMM, maybe. I see more GM trucks on jobsites than any other by far......and it is likely that I see more jobsites per week than nearly everyone on this site combined sees in a decade....so there is that, but yes, I agree to a point. If Chevy 2500hd is not commercial, than neither is GMC.....agreed.

There are certain water heaters that are in fact for commercial application only, very high BTU, high recovery, high first hour rating units. None of which you can buy at HD or lowes, nor would fit in most residential applications.

Average life of a tank is 10 years for a typical off the shelf unit. Around that time, one needs to be thinking on replacement or the tank, supply lines and expansion tank or expansion valve.

Anode rod replacement can extend this time, but there are no guarantees. 5-7 years anode rod replacement.....in other words, replaceing the rod, before they are gone is key.

 

[burbguy82]

$2700 for that job is not bad @BMWTurboDzl

Prices have gone up over the last 10 years X2 at least.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Did you ever look at and/or replace the anode rod? If you have a closed plumbing system you need the expansion tank.

Unfortunately because the unit is in a small closet and the orientation of the heater inside the closet the rod in inaccessible. TBF it's not like we have a problem with the heater itself. We, well my wife, suspects it's getting to end of life as it's a 2014 model. The leak at the connection to the supply line is a problem however.

Interestingly the builder installed heater didn't have an expansion tank. *Shrug*

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

$2700 for that job is not bad @BMWTurboDzl

Prices have gone up over the last 10 years X2 at least.

Ya. I received a higher quote.so it is what it is. Life moves on as they say.

 

[Hohn]

Those flexible pipes should make future replacements pretty simple too

That was my thinking also. These kinds of stubs are expensive, as are shark bites and such. Why are they so expensive? Because they are 100% worth it.