Garage air lines?

[Mud]

I just brought home a new CH 3.2 hp, 60 gal vertical air compressor, now time to set up the garage air lines, asking for some input.
4 car garage. I plan to use 3/4" lines, there will be 4 drops total to 2 workbenches and to one side each of 2 garage doors. The 4 drops will end in quick disconnects. Total length of air lines will be no more than 100 ft, probably less.
I want a neat professional appearance. I was thinking about something like a rapidair system, I liked the ease of installation and drains at the drops. I'm less worried about cost than I am about spending days doing hard piping and I really don't want to use PVC.
I will have a flex line from compressor to regulator/water separator, then connect to air line distribution.
Any experience with modular air systems?

 

[Chris142]

I have 100 ft of hose on a spool. Works fine for me.

 

[Mud]

That doesn't help much, I have 2 spools as well. I want a hard line system within the garage.

 

[tom slick]

Whatever you chose don't use PVC. It can handle the pressure but when it fails it explodes. OSHA doesn't allow PVC air lines that that reason.

I have done compressed air systems in black pipe and copper. Copper is easier but more expensive.

I wouldn't hesitate to use a rapidair system. The only problem I see is anytime a flexible line is used it is difficult to keep it from sagging in straight horizontal runs.

If you want some tips on system design let me know.

 

[Donald]

I think Northern sells some of the air kits. I have a large compressor and have a it setup with two reels, one for plain air and one for lubricated air. Plus a coiled line if I am close to the compressor. Put your compressor near the workbench and use reels and a coiled line. I would think you could keep your work bay close to the workbench/ Is there really a need to have air to all 4 bays. You said a home right?

Also something I read here is to use automotive couplers for plain air and industrial couplers for lubricated air. That way you will never use a hose than might have had oil in it for an application that required a clean hose & air.

Many years ago I worked for a place that made roof trusses. They had a rubber air hose with the coupler about 6' off the ground every 25 or so feel. As you stood on your tippy toes to connect your own air hose to the hanging air hose a shot of air oil would run down your arm. Mostly staplers & nail guns.

 

[Mud]

Gents thanks for the info, I'll see if I can get a general layout with my game plan. The garage is actually 3 park bays, 1 for equipment/tools. 2 park bay with 16' wide door, 1 park bay with 10' wide door. Equip area between the park bays. Lol probably confusing, I will try to give a better layout. I have walk height storage attic above entire garage, I could easily just route the rapidair lined within attic.
Thanks again

 

[yonyon]

One nice additional feature would be to install a ball valve at each of your three couplers. Sometimes an old coupler won't close completely when you disconnect. Should a hose fail, that extra few minutes you spent installing the shutoff valve means you can finish what you're doing first and deal with the hose later.

 

[Mud]

Great suggestion, thanks.

 

[dubie2003]

I am looking into this exact thing. From my research, copper is the way to go for hard piping due to the elimination of rust. If you are going soft lines(rapid air), then consider running the lines thru a pvc/abs pipe to eliminate the sage and accidental abrasion. Heck, you could run plastic conduit lens thru the entire garage with the flex inside.

Side note, I wonder what the cost of al pex is and if it would be cost effective to run it thru the conduit?

 

[tom slick]

I've pondered using PEX also but haven't looked at the price. If you used push lock (shark bite) fittings it would be very easy to install. I like the idea of using a conduit.

 

[Mud]

The PVC conduit sounds good, but I suppose it would need to stop at all tee and ell fittings in order to endure access to them? right now I think that I can route the rapidair lines vertically thru sheetrock ceiling into attic, then back down thru the ceiling again where I needed drops. All you would see would be vertical (straight) lines, lines in attic would not be an appearance worry. I like that and it simplifies the installation.

 

[JC1]

Originally Posted By: Mud
The PVC conduit sounds good, but I suppose it would need to stop at all tee and ell fittings in order to endure access to them? right now I think that I can route the rapidair lines vertically thru sheetrock ceiling into attic, then back down thru the ceiling again where I needed drops. All you would see would be vertical (straight) lines, lines in attic would not be an appearance worry. I like that and it simplifies the installation.


Mud,

If you run lines to hide them, what do you do if there is a problem and you cannot see the lines? I understand that you want a nice appearance, but make sure that servicing access is easy.

Regards, JC.

 

[Mud]

JC, point well taken. The lines would actually be very accessible in the attic area. There is a pull-down stair in the garage to get to the attic, very easy to get up there.

Also, the lines in the attic would route below the decking (decking is placed on 12" deep joists) so there is no tripping hazard. I checked product info and a 3/4" rapidair line can make a radius bend (no ell needed) within the dimensions of the joists to remain under the decking.

Greatly appreciate all of the comments and pointers

 

[Trav]

1/2" lines are more than enough for that compressor.
Even a 2 stage 7HP Quincy works fine with 1/2" at 100ft.
I used the RapidAir system from my water filters to the drops. Its great no problems and easy to put together.

Install an oiler at the drop you will use the most for air tools and keep one hose separate for them. Use another hose for clean air for spray painting, filling tires or blow gun.
I use two types of fitting on the hoses so the oil hose can never be plugged into the oil feed.

The only problem you may have with 1/2" is if you were running more than one tool at a time but a single stage 60gal compressor will run out of wind quickly anyway doing that.

 

[SuperDave456]

Is copper that much more important than Iron pipe?
In the shops I used to work at they used black Iron pipe, like what Natural Gas comes to your house with.

I figured that it would rust out eventually, but that may be 30 years down the road.
Or am I off base, would it rust out that much faster being moisture + Air ?

Edited to add: Also, due to the constant increase and decrease in pressure, would there be any work hardening to the copper if it was used?

 

[Trav]

Black iron does rust. You could end up with junk in your air tools down the road depending on how good your water filter is and how much moisture gets in the system.

You should use blue stripe copper pipe not the red stripe.
The blue is much thicker and stronger, you wont have any problems.

 

[Mud]

Your post beat me to it regarding the line sizing. I did some additional research that wound up changing my assumption that 3/4" size lines were needed. Due to the shorter runs, 1/2" is fine as was mentioned, so looks like I can go with the 1/2" size RapidAir master kit, should give me what I need, plus maybe add a drop connector or two.

I initially didn't plan on installing any oilers but I like the idea of dedicated connectors/hoses for clean/oiled systems.

 

[Trav]

Yes its worked out great. I use a lot of air tools daily and like the constant fine lube mist instead of just a shot of oil before using them, the tools really last and stay running good.

I also do a lot of painting and oil traces in the hose will bugger the job and you sure don't want oil mist in your tires or sand blaster.

4 yrs on the RapidAir lines and fittings and no problems.
The nice thing is you can add on later in a few minutes with a T.

 

[Mud]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Yes its worked out great. I use a lot of air tools daily and like the constant fine lube mist instead of just a shot of oil before using them, the tools really last and stay running good.

I also do a lot of painting and oil traces in the hose will bugger the job and you sure don't want oil mist in your tires or sand blaster.

4 yrs on the RapidAir lines and fittings and no problems.
The nice thing is you can add on later in a few minutes with a T.


Looks like great real-world results with the RapidAir system, thanks. I do more airbrush and auto paint stuff than use air tools so I'm paranoid about any oil in the system lol. The dual lines sounds like the solution.

 

[another Todd]

I have 3/4" PVC throughout both my garages. Been there over 20 years without a single problem. 30 feet is underground from my detached garage where the compressor is, to the attached garage. I use it mostly for DIY auto repairs (impact guns, air ratchets, air hammers), a little painting, and air inflation duty. I regulate the air pressure at the compressor depending on the task.