g-oil synthetic 5w30 oil pressure

[tj90]

So I finally did an oil change with G-oil (green earth technologies) 5w30. Im a pretty loyal M-1 5w30 user with 7k OCIs on a street driven F-150. I thought it poured like M-1 but my mechanical oil pressure guage is higher than it was with M1. Fully warmed up and 100F outside, Im still getting 2 bar of pressure which is about 30 psi. M1 would be about 1.5 bar (~20 psi) when fully warm.

Im not upset about this since it is so hot outside, but this oil seems to be performing like a 40w oil so Im sure my mpgs might be affected a little.


Has anyone else have similar experiences?

 

[bepperb]

Well, I also noticed it's a 5-30 but it's not energy conserving. So, it seems likely it's on the thicker side.

I don't know, I have it in the Highlander but notice no change.

 

[justinf89]

I've got it in my explorer and have 2500mi so far. I plan to run it until 5k or so and again for another 5k afterward because of another rebate.

The problem with the explorer is that it's just got the idiot oil pressure gauge, it's either in the middle of the gauge, or off. When it's cold out or 100 degrees out and the motors warmed up, the gauge never moves.

 

[229]

The Ford gauge is an on/off switch. The 3V Modular needs 5W20 oil.

 

[tj90]

I have the same idiot oil pressure gage. Pretty useless. I installed a mechanical guage by teeing off the pickup for the OEM gage. I really dont use it day to day, but it is interesting to see oil pressure differences when the truck is run with different viscosity oils or see the oil thin out as it warms up. I used it to compare the differences with 5w and 0w oils as well... Its amazing to see the differences with oil viscosity even though they are all labeled "5w30".

 

[cmf]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
Well, I also noticed it's a 5-30 but it's not energy conserving. So, it seems likely it's on the thicker side.


This is exactly it. It probably has a higher HTHS viscosity which results in less MPG. They really need a PDS for it though!

 

[puredrive]

I noticed the same. But it stabilized after a few days.

My previous fill was with German Castrol. This is on a Jeep XJ Cherokee with the 4.0L.

So far no decrease or increase in MPGs. I am about to send for the oil for analysis. I'm in the 4800-4900 mile range right now.

 

[Torrid]

I'm usually turned off by eco marketing, but if this really has a higher HTHS rating and a thicker viscosity, I may be interested in it after all.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: 229
The Ford gauge is an on/off switch. The 3V Modular needs 5W20 oil.

Unless of course it has the dreaded VCT tick, then it's OK to use 10W-40...

http://members.cox.net/turbocoupe50/dealerr.jpg

 

[tj90]

The irony of a "green" oil not being energy conserving!

I am with you, I dont generally go for products marketed as green alternatives unless they are cheaper or obvious environmental advantages. For instance, I recently bought a 2 stroke weed eater even though the sales guy was trying to sell me on cleaner burning 4 stroke.... 2 strokes run and run and run....

 

[JT1]

Originally Posted By: tj90
2 strokes run and run and run....


And 4 strokes don't?

My experience has been quite the opposite, which has been namely with dirt bikes. A 2stroker needs a top end every other season to keep running strong, but my 4 stroke has over 8000 mi on it and still cranks factory compression.

 

[tj90]

My experience with 2 strokes is excellent. Simple design, no oil changes, light and highest power to weight ratio. Putting 4 strokes on a weed eater is not a great idea. Of course, Im old school and long for my old lawn boy 2 stroke mower with aluminum deck. That sucker ran for 20 years and never had rust etc.... Im not a motorcycle rider, but I understand the 2 stroke versus 4 stroke debate is strong and Im not willing to get into that [censored] contest with you on that since I dont know anything about that.... Happy trails.

 

[229]

Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: 229
The Ford gauge is an on/off switch. The 3V Modular needs 5W20 oil.

Unless of course it has the dreaded VCT tick, then it's OK to use 10W-40...

http://members.cox.net/turbocoupe50/dealerr.jpg


Then you increase wear long term on the cam and journals. The oil passages to the cams are very small and designed for 5W20 oil. When cam-cap scoring occurs then head replacement is recommended. If you don't want to replace the chain tensioners and other VCT parts and oil pump as needed then it may be best to put up with the noise. No easy fix of re-engineering with 10W40 oil will result in a long term solution. The VCT can be locked with a kit to eliminate the noise but you lose the extra performance of VCT.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: 229
No easy fix of re-engineering with 10W40 oil will result in a long term solution.

I'll forward your post to Ford...

 

[NateDN10]

According to the MSDS, it's 9.84 cSt @ 100C, which certainly isn't overly thick.

 

[229]

Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: 229
No easy fix of re-engineering with 10W40 oil will result in a long term solution.

I'll forward your post to Ford...

Ford is where I got my info from. What you posted says it is for "critical" customers. This is to get the customer out of your hair. Not the best for the engine. Jes-ASE Master Tech

 

[The_Eric]

O/P, could you keep us updated after some driving? I'm curious if it stays this way.

 

[tj90]

About 300 miles and still running higher oil pressures. Ill periodically update the group. The hot weather will be about another 1-2 months minimum so hopefully I can tell if the oil thins out over 2k more miles. Unfortunately it takes me 7 months to go 7000 miles so it will take a while+it will be winter to know what it does end of life.
I usually top of a quart of M1 at 5k miles. I bet I will not have to add as much G-oil at 5k because it is thicker.

 

[tj90]

So Im at 6000 mi with the G-OIL 5w30. Still seems to have same (higher) oil pressure when cold and hot. I have not noticed any performance differences or MPG drop. I plan on changing it at 7k miles. I added a top off quart at 3k miles which is more than I usually add, but at 6k miles I havent had to add any more. Typically I add a quart of M1 at 5k miles. I probably just added too much oil at 3k miles.

It was 18F at startup this morning and the oil didnt seem excessively high pressure at startup - around 42-45psi and quickly dropped within a few minutes. If I load the engine its sure easy to hit 100 psi oil pressure within the first 5 min of running the engine so I always baby the engine when cold!

I laughted reading the amazon reviews of this oil improving mpg. I just dont see that happening with a thicker oil but Im not an expert

 

[tj90]

EDIT **[It was 18F at startup this morning and the oil didnt seem excessively high pressure at startup - around 42-45psi and quickly dropped within a few minutes.]**

Is incorrect. In the 30s-40s outside, startup pressure is actually 80psi and drops to 42-45psi when warm. This oil is running higher oil pressure than M1 even after 6k miles.