Could you tell me more about M1 ESP European car formula 5W30 and if I should be using it?

Feb 19, 2009
The Woods of NY
Maybe I need to live a little more and try this Mobil 1 5W30 ESP European car formula in both 2.4L's Sonata is DI, Kia is MPI

I usually like to play it safe and not introduce variables that I don't know... maybe this time I am missing out on better protection and maybe even better performance with a slightly longer OC time?

The kias 2.4L MPi has seen a steady diet of Mobil 1 or Valvoline Extended Protection 5W30 w/ oem filter changed every 3 to 4 months no matter the miles. Sometimes as low as 1250 miles other times as high as 4500 in the same time. Yes I know im changing it too soon thus is the reason im asking about this ESP 5W30.

Kia usage is something like this:
First start up of the day: Start car to circulate and warm up from anywhere 4-7 mins depending on outside temp if below 35
a short commute to work never leaving 4th.
every start up is a 30 sec to 2 min brief warm up period before I start moving.
Thruway trips a couple times a week sometimes 45 mins or more one way.
6640 rpm shift every so often to keep it young but ONLY after its been running for 20 mins or more.

The Sonatas usage is a little different. It's nothing but a highway vehicle so I change the oil every 6 months with mileage around 6-8,000 miles per oil change. Ditto on M1 or Valvoline EP 5W30 with oem filter.. The sonata does see a WOT merge on off ramps when needed ect but realistically the computer shifts around 6450 and the sonata is not nearly as fun to wot out as the kia is :LOL:

So that a touch of back ground. Would M1 ESP Euro 5W30 be a "better" choice for the 2.4l's? I did search but alot of the results come back to 0W40 or "thicker" type oils in much different engines.

What I am trying to gain is to have an oil that gives "BETTER" protection under my conditions as they are not optimum in the kias 2.4 mpi so I would like every little bit of protection there... and the Sonata 2.4 DI I would feel comfortable running 10,000 miles if the oil was good for 10,000 miles with some oil life in reserve.

What are you thoughts here? Keep doing what im doing (have zero issues going that) or switch it up, live a little, try something out of my comfort zone and go for that ESP Euro oil!

Thanks all.


This oil falls under the ACEA C3 category. These oils are formulated to protect emissions system components (DPF, TWC and now OPF) while meeting the SAME performance tests as oils which fall under ACEA A3/B4 (Ex Mobil 1 FS 0w40). In addition there are some including myself who, based on a Lubrizol presentation, believe that C3 oils reduce the RATE of intake valve deposits on DI engines. ULSG/ULSD is required in order to use C3 oils on the factory drain interval and the US officially moved to ULSG in 2020-2021. Some automakers have transitioned to oils which fall under a ACEA Cx category (ex, BMW, VW/Porsche, Mercedes Benz).

ACEA C3 oils, like A3/B4, are a little thicker with a minimum HTHS 3.5.

M1 ESP 5w30 (HTHS of 3.5)
M1 0w40 FS (HTHS of 3.6)

Another C3 oil which is similar to M1 ESP 5w30 is Pennzoil Euro L 5w30.

So is it worth it to move over? Only you can make that determination.

Does your owners manual say to use SN+ or SP? If so I would use Pennzoil Euro 5w40 (API SP).

The Lubrizol Presentation:
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There are also those that don't believe the Acea C oils reduce intake valve deposits: the additives that make the difference between ACEA A3/B4 and C3 oils leave white/grey ash deposits after burning, like you can find on the sprakplugs of oil burning cars. Intake valve deposits are always black and carbonaceous.