Fused rear shock bushing, need advice.

[LeakySeals]

An easy rear shock replacement has turned into a nightmare on this 2006 Altima. The shock mount bushing seized to the bolt, so when I turned the bolt the bushing was destroyed. Most vehicles that would be a non issue. But not this Nissan, the shock mount bushing is part of the knuckle assembly The knuckle has 4 bushings total. A complicated labor intensive job to take on and off because of the design. Its a $500 car. I have about 1k in parts into it so I'm not ready to throw in the towel. Yet. Should I..

1) Replace with new knuckle for $200. (requires transfer of old rotted rotor splash shield, hub, ABS sensor, old ebrake hardware. )
2) Replace the 4 bushings for $58 + labor to press 4 bushings. What would the labor be if I removed and brought it somewhere? Its not simple to do with this knuckle. Needs a pro.
3) Take my chances on a used ebay knuckle partially loaded like this link The splash guard is in better shape. I don't have to deal with cutting the shock off the mount. But.. Are the bushings any good on the part I'm getting?

What would you do?

 

[Astro14]

What about option 4. Buy a bushing press and do it yourself with the knuckle on the car?

Probably faster and cheaper than removing the knuckle and taking it to a shop. Definitely a better finished product than a used knuckle. Might get you in under the new knuckle price..

And, if this side failed, how likely is the other side to fail? So, that would double the price of the new/used knuckle options, and double the shop labor, but the purchase of one tool would now be amortized over two sets of bushings...

 

[The Critic]

It looks like that bushing can be replaced on-car if the pictured control arm assembly can be detached. Just need something like this:

 

[Oro_O]

Yes to above AND you can borrow the tool for free at most auto parts stores.

Then push in a new bushing. Probably not need it to be specific, Dorman has kits like this hanging in most autoparts stores for this situation:

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/shock-bushing/dorman-help-shock-and-end-link-bushings/426049_0_0?spps.s=4195&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:71700000060526742&gclid=CjwKCAjwgOGCBhAlEiwA7FUXkhL2KMiViPbGtdy7hyAUAN_Z_VLf9xWcsZMlrJDsRL2LYCd-3Nw5sxoC2f4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I did a similar thing twice last year rebuilding some engine torque struts.

 

[Trav]

This guy is doing one on the same car, you can make a remove/install tool easy enough for this one. Give it to a pro if you are afraid of it, its not a very big job.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Another vote for the above option.

 

[The Critic]

Yes to above AND you can borrow the tool for free at most auto parts stores.

Unless you win the lotto, those parts store kits rarely have the correct size.

 

[KrisZ]

Can you get a metal cutting saw blade in there? If so, cut through the metal bushing, doesn't have to be all the way, and then hit it with a chisel and hammer. This should break it at the cut and it should come off. Sort of like getting an inner race of a wheel bearing off of the spindle.

 

[2010Civic]

A saw-saw with a nice metal blade should take care of that. Pretty common thing to happen.

 

[LeakySeals]

They sell the correct bushings. But its not just the shock mount. Its also the camber arm bushing that faces the splash shield and hub. So it doesn't seem like I can get to that bushing with a press without taking it out and taking it all apart. Am I wrong? Here's a couple of pics

View from underneath. Damaged bushings in red.

Example pic with a better view.

Ok, I'll try to DIY the bushings... But here's an idea. The car is still usable. If I purchased a used hub cheap then I could DIY the bushings on a used replacement without disabling the car for long... So I have a question. Note the green circle in both pics. In 2006 ABS became standard equipment. Prior years an option. So most used knuckles say "without" or "no ABS". But they all have the threaded bolt and hole in the plastic cap. I sent email, they say it won't fit. But I'm thinking they do, with my ABS sensor and a new hub. There is no other physical difference I can see

???

 

[AutoMechanic]

It should work fine. The cap is there to protect it if you don’t need it which if you don’t have ABS you don’t need to use it.

 

[KrisZ]

I thought you damaged one bushing? How did this turn into overhauling the entire rear hub? What about the other side?

 

[Trav]

I am guessing it fits okay from what I can see on Nissan parts. Check with Nissan parts first.

 

[LeakySeals]

I thought you damaged one bushing? How did this turn into overhauling the entire rear hub? What about the other side?

It started off as a simple shock replacement. But the more you take off the worse it gets. Just like the front which I ended up shotgunning. But its ok I'm pretty much retired. Staying busy and learning. I didn't try the other side yet. Hopefully its not the same thing. I'm letting it soak in blaster.

 

[LeakySeals]

I am guessing it fits okay from what I can see on Nissan parts. Check with Nissan parts first.

Thanks. I think the eBay bone yards say no ABS because they are selling with hubs. I plan on replacing the hub anyways.

 

[Trav]

Yep, that is what I was thinking. As far as the knuckle goes it has the hole tapped for the sensor.

 

[LeakySeals]

It's here from Texas no rust on the dust shield or the e-brake mechanism. Couple of suspect bushings should I bother replacing them?

 

[AutoMechanic]

It's here from Texas no rust on the dust shield or the e-brake mechanism. Couple of suspect bushings should I bother replacing them?

Might as well while you have it apart.

 

[LeakySeals]

Here's one that looks like it might be cracked. And I figured because it's from a no salt area I should have an easier time getting a bushing out of this one