Replaced the reg on a 94 Ford with a 5.0 The old one didn't have a rubber seal and the new one did So question is cuuld it be the wrong run? Dont seem to run right but did plugs wire cap n rotor so may just have a couple plug wires misplaced Seems to idle all right but gutless on take off Going to check wireing when it warms up a little more Thanks
fuel injecter pressure reg question
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Make sure your vacuum line to the regulator is in good shape, and is getting vacuum.
a quick test is simply to take the line of at idle [once the car is warmed up]. You should note an immediate change.
I hope pointing the wires in the right direction fixes it!
a quick test is simply to take the line of at idle [once the car is warmed up]. You should note an immediate change.
I hope pointing the wires in the right direction fixes it!
Thinking about it dont sit flush where it bolts down like the old one did so fittings into fuel line should be raised also would that matter? Dont it flow in one and out the other? As you can tell I aint messed with this much I like my old carberated cars with no ECU
started right up this morning problem fixed had to be regulator
Consider the regulator as kind of a 'power valve' in a carburetor.
With high vacuum like when cruising, it allows less pressure.
When you step on the gas, the vacuum goes away and there is more fuel pressure. Like a vacuum valve in a carburetor that allows more fuel.
Anyway, you got it, and good work.
With high vacuum like when cruising, it allows less pressure.
When you step on the gas, the vacuum goes away and there is more fuel pressure. Like a vacuum valve in a carburetor that allows more fuel.
Anyway, you got it, and good work.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Consider the regulator as kind of a 'power valve' in a carburetor.
With high vacuum like when cruising, it allows less pressure.
When you step on the gas, the vacuum goes away and there is more fuel pressure. Like a vacuum valve in a carburetor that allows more fuel.
Anyway, you got it, and good work.
Thanks thats fixed but have to let idle for a minute when cold or it sounds like it floods out, Pulled a plug and black so it is flooding,now to figure that out Any ideas out there. No check engine light comes on anytime so unplugged maf to see if it even works and it does Thanks for any ideas
Consider the regulator as kind of a 'power valve' in a carburetor.
With high vacuum like when cruising, it allows less pressure.
When you step on the gas, the vacuum goes away and there is more fuel pressure. Like a vacuum valve in a carburetor that allows more fuel.
Anyway, you got it, and good work.
Thanks thats fixed but have to let idle for a minute when cold or it sounds like it floods out, Pulled a plug and black so it is flooding,now to figure that out Any ideas out there. No check engine light comes on anytime so unplugged maf to see if it even works and it does Thanks for any ideas
nobody has a clue thats good thought it was just me that dont understand this fuel injected computerized stuff
Have you done a "relearn" on it since you have done the work on it ? If not here it is,,,,
IDLE RE-LEARN PROCEDURE:
Disconnect the battery cable and leave it disconnected for at least 15 minutes.
Reconnect the battery cable and start the engine "do not press the gas pedal" but just crank the engine and let the engine running.
If the engine does not start, then turn the ingition switch off and then start again and again "do not press the gas pedal at all".
Once the engine starts running, let it run for at least 15 minutes and turn if off.
Note: The engine RPM might be erratic during the idle re-learn because the computer is trying to find the right idle settings.
IDLE RE-LEARN PROCEDURE:
Disconnect the battery cable and leave it disconnected for at least 15 minutes.
Reconnect the battery cable and start the engine "do not press the gas pedal" but just crank the engine and let the engine running.
If the engine does not start, then turn the ingition switch off and then start again and again "do not press the gas pedal at all".
Once the engine starts running, let it run for at least 15 minutes and turn if off.
Note: The engine RPM might be erratic during the idle re-learn because the computer is trying to find the right idle settings.
Thanks never even thought of doing that
Originally Posted By: seemore
Have you done a "relearn" on it since you have done the work on it ? If not here it is,,,,
IDLE RE-LEARN PROCEDURE:
Disconnect the battery cable and leave it disconnected for at least 15 minutes.
Reconnect the battery cable and start the engine "do not press the gas pedal" but just crank the engine and let the engine running.
If the engine does not start, then turn the ingition switch off and then start again and again "do not press the gas pedal at all".
Once the engine starts running, let it run for at least 15 minutes and turn if off.
Note: The engine RPM might be erratic during the idle re-learn because the computer is trying to find the right idle settings.
Originally Posted By: seemore
Have you done a "relearn" on it since you have done the work on it ? If not here it is,,,,
IDLE RE-LEARN PROCEDURE:
Disconnect the battery cable and leave it disconnected for at least 15 minutes.
Reconnect the battery cable and start the engine "do not press the gas pedal" but just crank the engine and let the engine running.
If the engine does not start, then turn the ingition switch off and then start again and again "do not press the gas pedal at all".
Once the engine starts running, let it run for at least 15 minutes and turn if off.
Note: The engine RPM might be erratic during the idle re-learn because the computer is trying to find the right idle settings.
Right.
But check for vacuum at the lint to the regulator.
It should be manifold vacuum, like the line to the brake booster.
You should have high vacuum at idle.
Low or no vacuum will make it run rich.
But we don't know what part is in there, and if it is in properly.
But check for vacuum at the lint to the regulator.
It should be manifold vacuum, like the line to the brake booster.
You should have high vacuum at idle.
Low or no vacuum will make it run rich.
But we don't know what part is in there, and if it is in properly.
Originally Posted By: speer
nobody has a clue thats good thought it was just me that dont understand this fuel injected computerized stuff
We're kind of joining this repair in progress. What was your initial problem, what lead you do change the regulator, and what would you consider a happy ending? Where the regulator sits, could there be interference if the motor were in, say, a mustang with a different intake? Maybe the new part is more universal than the one that came on your year truck.
The lines leading to it are 1) pressure on the fuel rail/injector side, 2) "no" (some) pressure going back to the tank, and 3) vacuum. Gizmo acts as a restrictor keeping pressure up at the injectors, and all the extra fuel going round n round keeps stuff cool and not vaporlocky.
As for flooding, you might want to check your coolant temp sensor if the relearn doesn't fix it. If the truck thinks it's -40'F it's going to skip a lot of the other sensors until it sees itself warming up.
nobody has a clue thats good thought it was just me that dont understand this fuel injected computerized stuff
We're kind of joining this repair in progress. What was your initial problem, what lead you do change the regulator, and what would you consider a happy ending? Where the regulator sits, could there be interference if the motor were in, say, a mustang with a different intake? Maybe the new part is more universal than the one that came on your year truck.
The lines leading to it are 1) pressure on the fuel rail/injector side, 2) "no" (some) pressure going back to the tank, and 3) vacuum. Gizmo acts as a restrictor keeping pressure up at the injectors, and all the extra fuel going round n round keeps stuff cool and not vaporlocky.
As for flooding, you might want to check your coolant temp sensor if the relearn doesn't fix it. If the truck thinks it's -40'F it's going to skip a lot of the other sensors until it sees itself warming up.
It all started out with hard cold starts Replace pressure reg,(had no pressure in line a bit after shutting down) cap n rotor, plugs, wires and air n gas filters. Starts right up now but takes a minute to warm to the point that you can even give it gas without wanting to stall like its being choked out. Thanks for the help guys
changed temp senser and did the relearn starts and runs like ti should now not sure if it was the temp senser or the relearn that did it But thanks to all of you that helped I'm good till the next prob I hope its a long time put to much $$$$'s in now
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