Frozen door locks! Finding longterm solution

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Hi all, so this is regarding my 2007 Toyota Corolla CE. It has manual locks (must use key to enter vehicle) and the locks continually freeze and every attempt at using an appropriate product seems to eventually fail. Living near Montreal, we see varying temperatures throughout winter, cold, extreme cold, warm, high humidity. Seems to me that despite the multiple products I have tried, none have lasted more than a couple weeks to a month at most. I will try to remember all the products I have used so far without success. I am looking for a long term solution if one exists.. I dont like spraying isopropyl alcohol into the locks every time i want to get in my car, I have also used a lighter to heat my key which also works well. Most recently I have used spray graphite which made a nice mess as it drained out the bottom of the door... and it didnt last. I thought graphite might work best. I have used the following without success;

- Graphite spray lube (not exactly dry)
- Graphite powder
- WD-40
- Lithium grease
- Teflon based
- Jig a Loo
- others I dont recall at the moment

I had 2 keys made to be used for entering into my vehicle so I dont break my only key left that works to start the car so it doesnt break. Trying to avoid dropping 200$ plus on getting new key and having it programmed... (engine disabler on key).

I havent used them all this year but in previous years. The door lock works flawlessly all year long except winter. I get the impression that change in weather results in water freezing inside the locks. Anyone have good success with anything? Thanks in advance!
 
Move to south Texas...
cheers3.gif
 
Does anybody make some kind of cover that could help keep moisture from getting into the lock in the first place, maybe something magnetic? Although I must say I wonder if the water could be coming from elsewhere (like a bad window seal?) given how much trouble you have with this...

This might be kind of a stretch, but I use a ski treatment called Zardoz between tunes...it's a fluoropolymer liquid that seems to be quite hydrophobic. Haven't had any rusty edges since I started using it, even when the skis are sitting in a closet all through a humid summer!
 
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Well, prior to each winter, I alway squirt/spray inside the lock cylinders, some kind of KROIL, PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench, WD40 and work the key back & forth including the trunk lock. Then spray again and again throughout the winter. Other than that, I don't know what else to do.
 
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Well, prior to each winter, I alway squirt/spray inside the lock cylinders, some kind of KROIL, PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench, WD40 and work the key back & forth including the trunk lock. Then spray again and again throughout the winter. Other than that, I don't know what else to do.


Yeah, sounds like this is what I must need to keep doing on a bi weekly basis. Unless someone has found a magical cure. I will report back if I find something that works better!
 
Living in the Midwest, I used Corrosion-X 90102 Anti-Corrosion and Lubricant, 16-Ounce, Aerosol. The best stuff for locks and electrical plus.

Also when the temperature is on the low 20's or worst, I just leave the car open.

Do not wash the car when below freezing also helps a lot.
 
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Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Move to south Texas...
cheers3.gif



Might be cheaper to get a car with power door locks. Even if the car doesn't come with an alarm, it's very easy to wire in an alarm system that locks and unlocks the doors via the power locks. I haven't had a car that didn't have power locks since the early 90's.
 
What you want is some access to a tiny can of de-icer / lubricant just when you need it. That is, a very small can that you can keep with you or perhaps hide somewhere outside the car. Back in the '80s I remember a product that was about the size of a 35mm film canister. If the locks were frozen, just shoot that baby in there. These days, my locks don't freeze in my desert climate (Idaho).
 
In the past I've removed the door latch mechanism, cleaned out the old hardened grease, and relubed with fresh grease. It would work like new. I'd have to do it around the 10 year mark.
 
Originally Posted by andyd
Pre lock htrs on the BMWs, I would heat the brass key with a zippo.


If the lock tumbler is indeed frozen, this probably is the easiest and most compact solution!
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
Originally Posted by andyd
Pre lock htrs on the BMWs, I would heat the brass key with a zippo.


If the lock tumbler is indeed frozen, this probably is the easiest and most compact solution!


And back in the day when I had to do this, I didn't smoke so the old fashioned way was to just stick the key in your hand and warm it with body heat. Would take a couple of times though.

Maybe that's why I've gone with power locks since and haven't looked back. Power locks haven't really failed on me, unlike manual locks...
 
Used to have a couple hundred padlocks and cores to take care of, as part of the job.
Somebody figured it went along with Armorers dutys,

Our facilty was on the windward shore of Lake Mich., and Ice in, and on everything, with beach sand mixed in, was a 7 month grind.
The old school treatment was to sonic tank 'em, soak in hyrdaulic oil, and then let drip dry.
They would freeze up. Oil is displaced by water. Condensation is constant.

I tried all manner of solutions.
WD-40 freezes and gums things up.
Graphite holds condensation.

One day I needed to get a padlock off, and only had a sprayer bottle of TW25B in an EP solution handy.
It worked to thaw it out, and I made a mental note to swap the thing out. 2 weeks later it hadn't re-froze so I left it.

Made sense. The light grease isn't displaced by water, and being darn near dry to the touch, doesn't hold grit.
Same as on our firearms.

Last I knew, it's still being used.
 
I had good luck with using motorcycle chain lube. It sprays thin, so it will penetrate well and then thickens up as the solvents evaporate. Castrol chain lube is cheap and easily found at CT, but it will leave some residue on the key for a little while, so be aware, because it's dark.
 
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